Stormin

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Thanks Gents,  Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion.
Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly-
 
  
 
It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims-
 
 
 
One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side.
Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim.
Regards.
 

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling.
Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !.
As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- 
 

 
I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues.
Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! -
 

 
Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later-
 

 
I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling.
This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit.
The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable.
Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads -
 

 
The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell.
The plate was then set up to drill the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss-
 

 
Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth.
The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all -
 

The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear.
It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! -
 
 
  
 
Regards
 
 
 
 
 

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Thank you Gents!. Still learning as I go and making reasonable progress. Finished the parts for the front caster assembled here with a temporary bolt, so just the wheel to make-
 

 
I had to make the 1/2" BSF Pin Bolt to ensure a good fit and with fine adjustment. I have some 15/16" AF high carbon Hex steel, so set to and turned one up on the lathe-
 

 
Also made a nut.
I bit the bullet and started 'tacking' the frame joints and managed to continue with reasonble weld joints to form a strong frame. I wll need to get the upper surface joints properly done. 
The mahogany planks have been cut and temporarily fitted for trimming to bring the surface level with the frame's surface. Embelishments include a brass nut cover to keep it weather tight-
 

 
.........and we all like to 'trial assemble', so this gives a better image of the project-
 

 
Regards
 

Here are some of mine, as well as a link to our website.
 
First is a 1942 Briggs U, second is a 1925 Briggs FE Gallon base, third is a 1924 Briggs FC, ;ast is a 1938 IBHP.
 
Mike & Jen's Old Engines Our Briggs Collection
Mike & Jen's Old Engines

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia-
 

 
Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing.
Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first-
 

 
I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table.
As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions-

 
I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate-
 

 
Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled.
Regards
 
 
 
 

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.
Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.
After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -
 
 
 
Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.
I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -
 

 
Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 
 

 
Regards
   

All the Best, Nigel.  Hope your buses are more frequent than ours.

Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, it goes well with the polished brass parts-

 

 
Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design.
Regards
 

On the way home from Yorkshire after the Newby Hall event, we stopped in Norfolk to do the Swanton Morley rally for a day.
 
Just the Wheelhorse Commando 8 on show from us, with a couple of bits we bought at Newby Hall.
 
Nice little event with plenty to see...
 
 

Nothing serious, Paul. 

Just had a great weekend in North Yorkshire at Tractorfest.
 
We took our 1968 Wheelhorse Commando 8 and trailed Wheelhorse aerator
 
Mark Smith organised the 2023 Wheelhorse Roundup and got 25 tractors this year.
 
 

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip.
 
The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation-
 

 
Regards
 

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

if no kill wire it should run but you wont be able to stop unless you unplug the wire from the plug. i suspect the coil there is a test in ohms you can do. i cant remember the measurement.hopefully someone else will help 

Nearly no head if I remember Norman!!

Janet and I spent two days at the Supercar Show at Sywell aerodrome. Show was amazing weather perfect but once you've seen 1 Lamborghini , Bugatti , Ferrari, Maclaren. Konigzed etc I took a picture for you guys!

Be sad to see it go. Nothing like it to drive. Look! No hands. 

Great pictures Norman it was a good day in spite of mediocre weather. Well done to all concerned.

It was the Heathersgill Vintage Rally this weekend. Friday was a decent day and warm as we started setting up. Saturday was b****y cold. Sunday the actual rally day was wet first thing but came fine just before noon. Turned out well with plenty of entries and members of the public.
 Below are a few photo's.
 
  Some Americana.

 
Monster truck.

 
Nice DAF.

 
Some stationary engines.

 
Working scale models. Tractor, thresher and baler. Also crawler and plough amd combine harvester.

 
Ex-RAF tug.

 
Miniature steam wagon.

 
Some motorcycles.

 
 

 
Some of the cars.

 
This 1920s Wolseley belongs to a good friend of mine.

 


 
My B-80 and Sears GT16. First and third in class respectively.


 

 
Nice Clydesdale's.

 
 

By Eck, Doug! They should last you a while.