Anglo Traction

Yeah, I reckon Norm. Trying to get a seller to only supply a metre of the Canvas, rather than a 5metre roll at the moment, I think I'm winning. Have been sorting out the back-up cylinder (reel) . It's been liberated from all the rust by Blasting and had a good coat of self Etch Primer, then baked on. I opted for checking out a long established Garden Machinery place in Lingfield to give it a Grind and Hone, handy as it was also on the way back from the Media Blasters. (they can't do the other one as there is too much metal to remove). Got it back this morning and cleaned off the greasy finger marks etc. Also masked off the ground blade faces ready for painting (lot of pitting to lose)- Made a start on the Hub Cap/wheel retainers, these were well gone with the rust lifting the Chrome off. This example is the better of the two - I couldn't put them in the E-bucket as they were Chromed, so had to sort them by hand. Took a while what with the old joints "Really giving me Gyp" nowadays. Pitting wasn't so bad once they were cleaned, then decided to just paint them. Re- Chroming is not a consideration my wallet will respond to. So they look reasonable - Thought I was going to be lucky on at least one part of this project, but I need to replace the Piston with an Aluminium one due to some vibration occurring at half Revs. The Cranks must have been 'Matched' to either Cast Iron or Ali Pistons?. No references anywhere that I could find. There is about 120grammes difference between the types, so it's got to be that. Should have gone and replaced 'Like-for-Like' in the first place. Something else I've learned about these little Villiers.

Hi Chris, Afraid I didn't. I was shown some of the Aladdin's John's Cave, but I was mIndful of not taking up too much of John and Alan's time. Hi Alan, Well, part of me wishes I had seen it, the other says glad I didn't . I will get one when I'm able, if only to do a full rebuild to see what makes 'em tick. Haven't got a use for one anymore . Would need to make space and dump one of the Red Tractors at least though!. Regards.

Ok, I'll be first to offer an opinion. I think your right to look at an Oxford Allen Machine, but I know nothing about them. Only to say that I intend to obtain one for a full Refurb project in the future. I have seen them in use and are easy to handle and versatile in awkward areas. Also if you like using/maintaining a vintage machine, it should fit the bill. Cost-wise, as you say, they are plentiful and reasonably priced. What also would sell me on one is that you can obtain many parts for the Machine and it's engine, more-or-less from one source that specialises in them. If they are carefully prepared for storage outside, they will cope with a winter ok. If you do get one, I for one will be in envy that you'll be able to use it in what sounds to be an idyllic location. Good luck and enjoy.

I do not know the age of your Bolens, but the Carburetor should have adjustable Needles for High speed and Idle. If your fuel mixture is lean (low fuel, high Air mixture) your engine will run hot. It will also use more Oil. In some cases it can make your Exhaust pipe glow red with heat. Maybe worth checking the Manual for your engine for the correct adjustment. If it is adjusted correctly, then another cause is a blockage. You will need to clean the Carb.

No problem Alan. Got my 'Fingers Burnt' on this current project and need more time to sort it. May stick to small stuff that fits on the Dining Table for a while . I'm sure Paul will have a 'Niche' for it and get it working

Only just seen the discussion . I'm not 'In the Frame' on this one. I have no space for another project yet. Regards

Reference to my previous on the Villiers Engine, the Clutch housing came off ok. It was on a Taper. Packed all the bits away for that, as it will cost time and money that needs to be spent on this Mower and other things. The Cylinder from John/Alan's Donor Mower was taken to the Media Blasters today in the hope it will clean up enough and get someone local to see if it can be sharpened up. If so , at least I can get the Mower working. No luck or response on the other one still. The Grass Catcher is a dilemma for me, as it needs some attention. The current condition is useable, but I suspect it would be better to bring it up to a standard like the Mower. May look a bit odd otherwise. The receipt for it when purchased new- I can obtain new Jade coloured Rot proof Canvas and replace the rusted steel rod frame ends , while keeping the galvanised base plate as it is very good. Would bring it back to looking newish ?.... I shall see how it goes.

The whole unit look's like a good project there Alan. I like the look of those little engines . Hypro Pumps are still around, so may be able to get parts still?. Maybe a Yellow Sprayer Challenge !!

I think it's been longer than a few years ago since they pulled out of Engines. Had the same challenges when I did one. So if you are going to sort this yourself and I don't know your Skill or equipment level?, you're going to need tools like a Dial Indicator or a Micrometer to set the BTDC measurement which is 0.080" (2.032mm). It will be easier though, now you have the Head off. Also a Torque Wrench that deals with Inch Pounds (or equivalent) is essential. As you probably know, I've already checked the availability of some parts you may need and they are out there. Jumping ahead in anticipation a bit here and hoping it saves you a bit of time, I have been checking numbers and it could be 1 of 4 Spec numbers for that Tractor. Using one as an example (75117h), the Crank part number is 30799 and is the same for the other 3 numbers (75118h/75117f/75118f).. ....the 'F' spec is for the Engines fitted to the '67' L/Ranger models. Would be a real blessing if it is the same

That's good Chris!. Although I did leave some of it there . I'll probably arrange another visit soon anyway. On the subject of scrapping and salvage, I've now accumulated several bits of Villiers Mk2 (Midget) engines from Donor Machines with some good bits from each. The Sidewheel ATCO mentioned most recently had a seized solid engine and very corroded (on right in Pic), but after pulling the Cylinder, I found a 0.030" oversize Piston. Yep, it has had a re-bore in the past and although the Cylinder was Shot with heavy rust, the Cast Iron Piston cleaned up good, if a little scored. The Bottom end of the Donor 14" ATCO Mower's engine is in very good condition despite being original and 61 years old !(left in pic). Several noticeable differences in Crankcase design between the two- I have one fairly decent spare Cylinder, so my plan is to find someone to re-bore it +0-030". I should then be able to build a very good Engine without too much expense for a future project and will retain all the correct serial/date marks for 1954. ......Just have to suss out what the output end Clutch Housing is sitting on , taper or threaded ?. No Keyway visible . Will have to make a decision soon about refurbishing the Original 'Grass Catcher' that was an optional extra,.... yep even got that as well!.

.................Wonder how many Pilots have said that in the past?. Very nice Norm. Like the Sandwich Box ! ......Can't be for Tools, you shouldn't need any after that Rebuild

Stickers look good Norm. Did Mark make them with Chrome/Silver?. You Teaser.......making us wait

Courtesy of Alan on here for noticing a derelict version of this Mower project at his friend's and probably the same one Chris had seen?, I now have a source of a few salvageable spare parts from this- After fully reducing the machine to a pile of Rusty bits, I found some parts that were preserved in copious amounts of grease and unexposed are in better shape than on my Mower ! . This Mower is a couple of years younger (1960ish) than mine and a few noticeable design changes, but I can still deduce things like- which holes in the Deck Panel on mine for example, should not be there and were done by the previous owner with the modifications made to it. One good point on this Donor Mower is that the Wheel/Tyres show the original Tread Pattern, which also means they are greater in diameter !- Like most things in this game, there is always the 'Trade Off' and these have more cuts and marks in them with the raised lettering worn off on the outside, but a lot of that can be invisibly repaired. The Ratchet Free Wheel Nuts, the Pinions and fixings are all useable. As for the Cylinder (Reel), well it is just possible it could be used, but it is different. This is where I believe that ATCO possibly acknowledged there was a design fault in the original (mine) where the Blades/knives kept breaking and they redesigned it and this is the revised version. The Blades/Knives are still the same robust thickness of 5/32" (4mm), but they have added an extra Web (to 6) on the Spindle to reduce the distance between the Webs improving its strength overall- Still playing the waiting game for a response on the situ with the original one

I think I know where your at with the frustrations of finding problems on a project, whether they are 'Bodges' or 'Let Downs'. Must be like searching for Needle in a Haystack if you have no Model/Spec to work to. Lets hope one surfaces for you.

Look's like someone has made a right 'Pig's Ear' of that Flywheel Taper, Keyway and Key in the past. Would advise throwing that key away & replace it. I don't want to spend your money for you, but it may be worth starting a list of bits you're going to need. If the list grows, it may be worth seeing if you can obtain all the parts from U.S , either via a member on RS, or a single retailer in one batch to keep shipping/duty costs down.. The original Key has a step cut out in it (most aftermarket ones haven't). Still available- Google or Auction search Tecumseh 30884 . Points, Condenser and coil are all still available. What are you stuck on?.

Sorry Tom, I was a bit slow compiling my post and have duplicated what you said

A couple of points for you to consider James now your tackling this by going deeper into the engine. Aluminium Bore Engines are prone to bad maintenance, i.e. lack of regular Oil changes is the major failing. Your Engine may only need a new set of Rings, depends on the amount of wear and the condition like scoring. There is no facility to use a 'Screw In' Bolt and Puller on this Flywheel. There is a set procedure to do this, and again, it is covered in detail in the Service Manual. It also needs to be done with care to avoid damage. Flywheel key condition is also important on this model. Basically, it involves 2 pieces of Tapered Wood tapped in between the Crankcase and the Flywheel to pull it out towards the Nut and the End of the Crank/nut is sharply hit with a Wooden Mallet or a metal Hammer with a thick rag between it and the nut. The Flywheel will free from the taper and the nut prevents it from dropping on the floor and shattering (or your foot). Most of the Carbon there will scrape off with just a sharpened wooden Lolly Stick, or a piece of soft copper, as it is saturated with Oil (that's why your Piston is so clean on top). I always prefer to use a scraper that is of softer material than the parent metal. If you remove the Valves, you must check and note orientation of the Springs carefully and they need to be refitted the right way up if they are of the 'Damper Style', which is highly likely. The Manual will show you all this. I clean the Valves with a Small wire brush in a Drill. Careful with the Stem length that runs in the Guides. I assume you just want to clean, regrind/lap and refit these?. Getting the Valve Clearances correct may involve careful grinding and finishing the ends of Stems where they contact the Valve Lifters (Cam Followers). Cleanliness is paramount. Also, don't throw the original Carb away. I will have it and return it to new condition as a spare.

Hello Gareth, I don't know if your aware, but some of those Halfords Car Spray paints are not fuel proof. I would hate for you to see your perfectly finished Fuel Tank ruined by a spillage. Will be well worth testing on a spare panel piece. If it is not resistant, then use some of their Fuel Proof Lacquer to seal it and the Decals like I did on my ATCO Tank. If you are aware, then forgive my assumption of doubt. Regards. Richard.

As Norm says, great job on the Tank Gareth and good progress !. Can't help with the rotten Exhaust and the Crank Case cleaning has no real 'Short Cut'. My effort on the 72 Genset project was all elbow grease with various grades of Wet or Dry with a 'T' Cut polish, but perhaps was not in as Bad-a-Condition as yours. To get the powdery white corrosion and dirt off, maybe use the green scouring pads with some Stainless Steel sink (cream) Cleaner mixed with washing up liquid ( Don't leave it on too long as it will stain the Alloy). Old Toothbrushes help to get into the awkward areas and rinse off with more soapy water.

Couple of nice attachments there Charlie. Like the Cultivator. Should look even better when you've finished with them....... I've no idea where you got them from !

Ok James, As you haven't been inside the Carb and it is a Series 1, then I suspect the Float and/or Valve is causing a flooding issue and the 'Blow Back' . Idle and run issues are caused by dirt and clogged passages which cause problems adjusting settings. Overhaul kits for these include Welch plugs which have to be removed/replaced to access some passageways. There is also a Metering Rod inside one of these which can get stuck with dirt. Kits are still available and again, if it is a Series 1, then I have a NOS Boxed Brass Carb Float you can have. In addition to the Engine numbers, if you can post a few pics of the Carb with the Filter removed, I may be able to confirm it easier. Here's one of the Engine/Carb I had to deal with (although the linkage will be different) to possibly help with I.D. -

Well James, H60 Techies and their Series 1 Lauson Carbs can be a challenge. My only credentials with these was to revive one that was derelict for a good 25 years with a solid varnished up Carb, missing parts and no spark. Got it running, but only after a top end and Valve refurb and new points/Condenser. Have you been working on the engine at all, I.e. set the timing, stripped and cleaned the Carb?. My initial suspicion is the Carb. Have you referred to the Engine Manual for instructions on Carb servicing?. I would need your Engine Numbers to see what Carb you have and go from there if no one else local to you can help.

Don't go out of your way Chris, I may well be sorted for a 'Fall Back' now, thanks to Alan . Norm, Your not telling me you've got Busses up there as well as Hedges !.

If your stack is that loud, maybe some Ear Defenders . I'm sure all would agree there's always a few little niggling issues with a project to 'iron out'. Nothing radical on your list. Looking forward to seeing it all 'Stickered Up' . .

Another Milestone this afternoon. Fired up the engine . Burst into life on the 2nd pull and no smoke ! . Had a small fuel leak at the Carb Banjo, found it was a faulty Fibre Washer. Runs fine from Idle to mid Revs, which is all it will do for a Litre of fuel burn until the Rings bed in. Started up 4 times, all on 1st pull and have now got enough heat into it to cure the VHT Paint. Must admit the use of the Aspen Fuel has a very pleasant smell, both neat and when burn.