Jump to content
expeatfarmer

Ransomes MG2 number 137

Recommended Posts

Jumping about from one job to another to keep momentum and interest going I re-cut the valve faces and seats today using a Neway cutter set, one kit cuts the face to 45deg another kit cuts the seat to 46 deg amazing pieces of kit and apparently no lapping required. The complete set costs about 2 grand so I was very lucky to be able to borrow a set. I also cleaned up all the studs and nuts for the crankcases ,timing cover and made a complete set of new gaskets for the barrel crankcase and final drives. A nice quiet day without compressors or grinders running.

Only just read this - Not so sure about "apparently no lapping required" .  I bought a set of Neway seat cutters forty years ago and always lap in after refacing valves and re-cutting seats . Would consider it good workshop practice (as opposed to manufacturers assembly ) .

 

The Black and Decker valve refacer dates back to the days when they made proper tools and incorporates a vernier attachment for grinding valve stems on engines without adjustable tappets.

 

post-236-0-29883400-1446330450.jpg

 

post-236-0-95126400-1446330499.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the same thing but it is very specific in the instructions that if you are cutting the valve to 45Degrees and the seat to 46 if you lap it you just blur the interface. I also sought advice from some race engineers who both said the same thing. We shall see !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I've never cut valve seats, but lapped a good many in. I lap a bit then clean off. Lap without paste and repeat until I can just see a complete  thin shiny line round seat and valve. With an ohv head, I assemble then pour petrol into the ports and look for any dampness round valve head. If petrol can't get through, gas vapour won't.  I can see the reasoning in the slight difference in angles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the oil sump cover in picture 2 ..... I find that mine is very good for tea!

 

 

Wristpin, what year is your valve refacer? I have a Black and Decker drill which was my fathers dating from the 1940's or 50's which is as well made and still going strong

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't disagree re the one degree difference , that's standard practice but in a rebuild situation I'd still lap. A while ago there was someone recommending " ringing in" - his term - each valve by smacking it with a hammer to seat it !

Each to his own!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit more progress today now that my 1902 Drummond lathe is back up and running with a new chuck. A number of the original head studs that also hold on the fan mounting were missing so I made up a new set from 1/2" hex bar threaded UNF one end and BSF the other. had some fun oil bluing the finished items. Second job was brazing up all the cracks and rust holes in the engine cowling, I was not looking forward to this as it looked to be in a very poor state however after a bit of hammering, brazing and a dip in the acid bath it has come out quite well.I annealed the copper head gasket and we now have a complete engine.

 

 

post-292-0-40769100-1446665777_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-77412900-1446665803_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-00004100-1446665839_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-02225000-1446665861_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me how to get the text to wrap around the pictures better?

 

I think your forgetting to move your cursor, Jonathan.

 

Select your attachments first.

 

Write your sentence/paragraph.

 

Move cursor down two spaces and select required attachment from list at bottom of page.

 

Move cursor down two spaces again and write next sentence/paragraph. And so on.

 

Make sense?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually I write the blurb and then upload the photos which land where they land! I don't seem to be able to move them around.


Had a go at editing the last two posts and that seems to be better. Thanks Norman.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At last I am getting near to the end of de rusting, cleaned off the drawbar  and lift mechanism today just a couple of wheels and the load roller frames to go. Studying the manual for the Nickel plating kit I bought ready to set to with the carb, disappointingly the first thing the kit says is to mix the chemicals with distilled or de ionised water but then they don't send you any! Fun job today was to start re assembling the tracks now that they are cleaned off and painted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wrong kind of fridge unfortunately.

Nothing lost, as melted fridge frost is not distilled but is just atmospheric moisture that has condensed and been frozen when the fridge door is opened and warm moist air hits the cold interior.  Proper "distilled water" is, as the name suggests, water that's been boiled, turned to steam leaving the impurities behind and then re-condensed in a purer form . De- ionised water is something else again......!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have thank you, looks as if it could get expensive. I currently have a 1937 version of the same book and it is interesting how the machine has changed, but not fully evolved into the TB engined model. The engine in this is Sturmey Archer derived but Ransomes branded, the starter mechanism has changed to the end of the crank instead of the chain and ratchet 137 has, the logos and decals are different and now has Royal Warrant so guess this brochure must be 1938/39. I hope I manage to win the auction. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just read this whole Thread and really impressed with your comprehensive workmanship skills. :bow:

Your enthusiasm shows through on the care you apply to maintain originality of this machine :thumbs: . 

Keep the pics coming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Richard . Todays job has been assembling one of the tracks, if you tighten the nuts to the correct track pitch it makes it too stiff to fit and handle so it will be another laborious job once fitted to the machine. 28 pads per track 58 bolts 2 tracks 116 bolts to tighten a couple of flats at a time as you can't get in with sockets or power tools.

 

post-292-0-15628000-1447077432_thumb.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


Premium Theme Designed By IBTheme.com

×