Darmic1 447 #1 Posted August 3, 2015 Hi!You all seem to be having fun at the rallies........The weather seems kinder this year!I hope someone is able to refresh my memory on how to test a coil on the little Atco Villiers 79cc engine??? I seem to be having a senior moment and have totally forgotten!This is for the engine I had as a spare. I'm fitting it to the little 12" Atco I accquired at Ardingly, which Kev and I shared. Have managed to source a grass box for it, and have gotten a new ignition lead. The rest is stripped and currently at the blasters. So the engine is getting a makeover and currently has no spark! Edit! Here's a picture Before it was separated from its engine, its all I have as my phone has been randomly deleting photo's??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 997 #2 Posted August 3, 2015 Hello Darren, Common problem with old Villiers Coils. Fine copper wire and old shellac varnish to insulate it. Usually the Secondary windings that go, so to test one, it is advisable to disconnect the Coil from the Condenser first. I find it quicker to de-solder and remove the Low Tension wire from the Coil, rather than dismantle the Points box. Set your Meter to Ohms connect red lead point to the HT Lead contact point and the Black (com) lead to the steel central core Rod end (earth/ground). A serviceable Coil will produce a reading of between 3-5k ohms resistance. The primary circuit (Low Tension Coil to Points) is tested with Red lead on Coil wire contact (where is was de-soldered from) and the black lead onto the Core rod for earth/ground. Should have a reading of 0-3 ohms if good. New manufactured ones are better, as they use modern materials internally, but are identical externally. Don't be tempted to buy a New/Unused old one. Regards 1 HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeadExam 1,783 #3 Posted August 3, 2015 Hello Darren, Common problem with old Villiers Coils. Fine copper wire and old shellac varnish to insulate it. Usually the Secondary windings that go, so to test one, it is advisable to disconnect the Coil from the Condenser first. I find it quicker to de-solder and remove the Low Tension wire from the Coil, rather than dismantle the Points box. Set your Meter to Ohms connect red lead point to the HT Lead contact point and the Black (com) lead to the steel central core Rod end (earth/ground). A serviceable Coil will produce a reading of between 3-5k ohms resistance. The primary circuit (Low Tension Coil to Points) is tested with Red lead on Coil wire contact (where is was de-soldered from) and the black lead onto the Core rod for earth/ground. Should have a reading of 0-3 ohms if good. New manufactured ones are better, as they use modern materials internally, but are identical externally. Don't be tempted to buy a New/Unused old one. Regards Richard would this method work on coils from other small engines? Thanks, Alain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 997 #4 Posted August 3, 2015 Hello Alain Richard would this method work on coils from other small engines? Thanks, Alain Hello Alain, I don't see any reason why not, after all, we are only checking the resistance and passing a low voltage from the Meter's battery through it. I would imagine the readings/resistance values may differ though. 1 HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #5 Posted August 3, 2015 Cheers Richard, I thought it was something like that!!! Initial testing says secondary windings knackered! Not a cheap fix then........ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #6 Posted August 3, 2015 you can buy a roll of enameled wire from maplin and rewind them and use a small motorbike coil if you aren't out for authenticity... My dad has rewound a lot of villiers coils to cure the issue 1 diggerjames reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 997 #7 Posted August 3, 2015 No, not cheap Darren. well not if they're the same size as the Coils in my Villiers. There are several sizes and prices vary. I need one as well, but my supplier is out of stock at the mo'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #8 Posted August 3, 2015 65 of my hard earned pounds from Villiersparts! I wouldnt know where to start rewinding it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,728 #9 Posted August 3, 2015 Darren, try John Cruse at the Mower Centre, 01323 842477, he may be able to help you out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
S1g 579 #10 Posted August 3, 2015 Hi Darren, if you post up a photo I'll look through my villiers spares and see if there's any coils that match. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #11 Posted August 4, 2015 Cheers Paul and Gareth, have managed to source a fairly new, tested and working coil from George at Villiersparts for sensible money. He has no new in stock at the mo, and apparently neither has anyone else! At least another month before brand new ones are available again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #12 Posted August 6, 2015 New replacement coil fitted and reassembled, sparking like a good-un! Will get some photo's up this week. All parts are back from the blasters and primed. Cylinder blade cracks all welded up and primed too. Hoping to get some colour on this week....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #13 Posted August 7, 2015 As promised some pictures of this mower. Unfortunately I don't have any prior to starting this project as my phone has done the android 5.0 update, has had an episode and deleted all the pictures I had......... If anyone from Ardingly has any of this mower next to my restored 14" Atco, I would very much appreciate a copy??? So, here is where we are......... The mower was missing a grass box, one was sourced from the bay of E, not in too bad a condition, a few dents but nothing that cant be fixed. These are the larger parts back from the blasters. The rollers will require a small amount of metal filler to improve some of the deep pitting...... the rest is all in etch primer ready for paint. 1 S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #14 Posted August 7, 2015 All the Aluminium parts have been cleaned as have all the nuts and bolt. Threads cleaned, some fittings replaced. The carb has has the once over and required the housing to be 'heli-coiled' as it had stripped the thread for the banjo bolt. I had a duff coil and purchased an almost new replacement. Fitted, and pleased to report a good strong spark. The engine is all ready to go back on the mower. Exhaust has been painted with VHT paint. 1 S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #15 Posted August 7, 2015 These 2 pictures bring us up to date....... Yesterday I welded 15 cracks in the cylinder blades, Vee'd them, drilled a small hole at the end on the crack to prevent it from running, and then welded the crack and hole both sides and smoothed out with the flap disk. Here it is with todays progress, the 1st bit of colour........ Also painted the clutch mechanism and the flywheel cover...... 1 S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #16 Posted August 11, 2015 Have managed to make a good bit of progress in the last couple of days. The rollers have been filled, removing the very deepest pitting, etch primed and painted silver. Also refitted the flywheel cover and secured using new brass screws. 1 S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #17 Posted August 11, 2015 Started the task of painting all the parts in Green today Here is a couple of piccies...... You don't realise just how many bits there are??? Will leave the paint to harden for a couple of days before starting the re-assembly........ 6 Anglo Traction, Stormin, nigel and 3 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
S1g 579 #18 Posted August 12, 2015 Looks great, hope no rouge cans painted Micala's freezer this time? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #19 Posted August 12, 2015 Cheers Gareth, Its coming along nicely, and no........ Didn't paint the wifes freezer this time!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 997 #20 Posted August 13, 2015 All the Aluminium parts have been cleaned as have all the nuts and bolt. Threads cleaned, some fittings replaced. The carb has has the once over and required the housing to be 'heli-coiled' as it had stripped the thread for the banjo bolt. Should have posted for one in the Wanted section. I have very clean, undamaged, spare V508 Junior Carb Bodies. Progress and work is looking good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian 2,417 #21 Posted August 14, 2015 Fantastic work there Darren, she will look great when she is back together.. Looking at the photo's reminds me of a Webb I restored long ago.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #22 Posted August 14, 2015 Thanks Ian....... Couldn't resist starting to put it back together! Managed to get this far yesterday....... the cylinder and bottom blade are being dropped off at a mates for grinding. He works at a golf course and will be doing it over his lunch break. 1 nigel reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darmic1 447 #23 Posted August 22, 2015 Refitted the cylinder and bottom blade yesterday, adjusted them, and did the 'shiny paper' test......... nice pile of confetti! Then put the rest of the machine back together, but it got too late to start it up, A job for today maybe? 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #24 Posted August 22, 2015 Nice job there, Darren. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 997 #25 Posted August 22, 2015 Look's good. I see it has the Cone Clutch design, is it a pre 1950 model?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
