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Anglo Traction

Mower Deck refurbishment

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This has been propped up against the wall in my garage since 2010 and came with the Raider/C-120. Need to get this up and running, so I dragged it out for a quick check/inspection-

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Not a lot of meat left on that anti scalp Roller!. All solid Shell with no weld repairs and all free moving parts. Bearings are smooth tight and have been well greased.

Needs new Blades, Roller and a few bolts. Carrier Frame needs some work, so will take time out from the Traction Engine and take advantage of good late summer weather. 

 

 

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May have to replace the Deck Wheels as well, several chunks of rubber missing!. Nearly finished the Mule Drive. 

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Ugghhh, I've been refurbishing several decks and have several more to do, They are a pain, always more to it than originally considered. I wish you luck and motivation, and I am sure it will come out superb.

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8 hours ago, HeadExam said:

Ugghhh, I've been refurbishing several decks and have several more to do, They are a pain, always more to it than originally considered. I wish you luck and motivation, and I am sure it will come out superb.

Ah!....I now know where to go for advice from an expert then :).

Already found an 'iffy' Spindle/Pulley/Hi-Pro key fit on one Spindle Castel (possible cause being Pulley Nut loose ).

Many Nut & Bolt Bodges too.  All but 2 of them undid ok.

Problem is having to buy costly parts in from U.S as they're unobtainable over here.

Overall so far, not as bad as I had expected.   

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16 hours ago, Anglo Traction said:

Ah!....I now know where to go for advice from an expert then :).

Already found an 'iffy' Spindle/Pulley/Hi-Pro key fit on one Spindle Castel (possible cause being Pulley Nut loose ).

Many Nut & Bolt Bodges too.  All but 2 of them undid ok.

Problem is having to buy costly parts in from U.S as they're unobtainable over here.

Overall so far, not as bad as I had expected.   

I don't know what parts you referring to, but if it is bearings, bolts, or even spindles, Some manufacturers use very similar parts and designs, if it is deck parts them selves like hangers and hardware, that becomes an issue. One hint in searching is to use the word Toro with the part number and not Wheel Horse, as many of the part numbers were converted to the Toro name after its acquisition. It is how I have found many parts. By the way, Often Wheel Horse decks share many parts that are alike, look at decks other than yours. Half of the issues I faced on my 48" 5-1221 deck rebuild were not from wear or age, but of owner "redesign". It seem like many feel that they are qualified mechanical engineers if they can mount two scoops of ice cream on a sugar cone.

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Hi. You think that needs work! I have a wheelhorse which has to keep 2acres cut so I can't take time out to restore. My deck is full of welds nuts and bolts plastic padding etc. Still the wheelhorse  is the best of my rideons. I put myself into an evening class to learn to weld and made a deck for an even older wheelhorse  the one with two blades and gearing to keep the blades from hitting. To make new blades I knocked up a 3/4" bush on a small spindle to balance the blades when ground into shape. Few years on and no problems.

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9 hours ago, HeadExam said:

 Some manufacturers use very similar parts and designs, if it is deck parts them selves like hangers and hardware, that becomes an issue. One hint in searching is to use the word Toro with the part number and not Wheel Horse. It is how I have found many parts. By the way, Often Wheel Horse decks share many parts that are alike.  The issues I faced on my 48" 5-1221 deck rebuild were not from wear or age, but of owner "redesign". It seem like many feel that they are qualified mechanical engineers if they can mount two scoops of ice cream on a sugar cone.

 

Thanks, Deck look's excellent !.  I use the same methods to locate parts and search all the other WH Model IPLs to crosscheck for parts as when I did the 2 Tractors. There is always someone selling a part that they don't know fully what it is and will fit.

Many generic parts/items like Hi Pro Keys for example are traceable using the makers Part # and the cross over numbers to other Products like MTD/Ariens that list the same parts with their own numbers.

New Blades are the main purchase (sorted). I've stripped this Deck down to the bare shell now and (Stormin/Norm) I'm happy with all the Bearings/Spindles & Housings. Thought I may have to replace one Pulley, but changed my mind when I found out how much a new one is!. I'm making things like 'Special Washers' that are needed

Had to get a 1 1/8"AF thin spanner (used/cheap) and a Socket for when I pull the old Blades. Spindles for this are rare now. Found one NOS up for nearly £100 + shipping!. Fortunately these feel pretty good so far. I will replace one worn Hi Pro Key which will remove the small amount of Torque Slack on one of them.

Shell is really solid and had been coated with an 'Underseal' of some kind, possibly soon after initial purchase c 1980. Bolts were refitted the wrong way at some point though, hence having some difficulty with freeing them off. ....Pulled about 2 kgs of stones etc from inside the 2 Baffle Boxes and have found 2 small areas to weld up in them.

The  Anti Scalp Roller (original) is so worn because the Spindle Rod end had been swaged and welded to the Brackets !!... couldn't get it off to replace?...... I have a plan for an alternative roller.    Will use Stainless for fixings on Deck reassembly.

7 hours ago, Listerman77 said:

Hi. You think that needs work! I have a wheelhorse which has to keep 2acres cut so I can't take time out to restore. My deck is full of welds nuts and bolts plastic padding etc. Still the wheelhorse  is the best of my rideons. I put myself into an evening class to learn to weld and made a deck for an even older wheelhorse  the one with two blades and gearing to keep the blades from hitting. To make new blades I knocked up a 3/4" bush on a small spindle to balance the blades when ground into shape. Few years on and no problems.

Good to know 'Make do and Mend' is still comprehensively practiced :thumbs:. Any Pics of your Shaft Drive Deck build?.

 Seems I have the advantage and luck of time and a reasonable Deck.

 

I will have some parts to fabricate and repair on the Carrier/Lift Frame, mostly turning,drilling and metal 'build-up' welding work. Meanwhile, it's scraping and cleaning time.

Regards. 

 

 

 

 

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It seems like some people have better things to do than maintain their equipment. As much as I complain about this, I know I should be very thankful for condition in which the equipment I have purchased has been in. 

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Assembled the refurbished Mule Drive unit today. Bit of a state initially, but cleaned up ok with Blasting and Etch Primer. Added brass tube spacer to keep the Tension Bars correctly spaced-

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Fitted good quality bearings-

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Another job done. Ready to fit-

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Top Job!. The mule looks new and should perform as such! I have to say that the level and quality of work here is very impressive. If I could I would send a whole ship of old tractors your way to save.

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This is a deck I reproduced using sheet steel and a course in welding at my local evening classes.

The gearing was replaced. New blades were made from strips of steel carefully balanced. Sorry about non standard wheelhorse paint but this was 30 years ago when the Redhorse was not so cheerished.

 

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Great job on the Deck fabrication :thumbs:.

Slow, but steady progress on the Deck. New bits have been arriving and I decided to make new Baffles as these are too tatty-

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Both now gone and ready to be Sandblasted 'n' Weldthru Primered in those areas, rest will be Etch Primed-

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New Baffles will be sealed to deck shell and then squirted with Waxoyl via a small access plug.

 

Got the Anti Scalp Roller Pin out, looked pretty sad. Replacement Roller is Albino!, but will do the job and less expensive than the Black plastic Toro replacement.

Also been machining up Bolts for the new Deck Wheels, as the old bolts are bigger?-

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And the 'Pukka' New Blades have arrived-

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 Got them delivered for less than they appear to retail for in U.S.:).

Back to more fettling........   

  

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I can only imagine how good the finished deck will look knowing the quality of your work Richard..

Just don't make the deck too good to use :D

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On 08/10/2016 at 6:35 PM, the showman said:

Looking good Richard, nice when new bits arrive.

You're right there Chris, always liked to have stuff arrive.

On 09/10/2016 at 9:32 PM, Ian said:

I can only imagine how good the finished deck will look knowing the quality of your work Richard..

Just don't make the deck too good to use :D

Just good, clean working order that won't rot through in a few seasons Ian. Brush painting it, so no superior finish  :).

 

Finished the Wheel Bolts. Had to Screw cut the start of the 3/8" UNC threads, then use a Die as it was quite hard for me with the Die stock straight off by hand-

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With the Wheel Bolts done, The Deck Undercarriage is finished ready to fit. Also the Deck Belt Tensioner-

 

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Deck Shell clean up has been interrupted 'cause the 10 yr old Angle Grinder started haemorrhaging grease.

It had been stored a while, and when I went to use it for this job, Oil had seeped out of the head into the Storage case.

So I presumed it was the old grease breaking down and separating. Got worse, so I dived into it today for an inspection and clean up-

 

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Both the Race Bearings are good, but not sure about the Driven Shaft (small end) Bearing. Anyway I cleaned up the Commutator and fitted new Brushes.

Repacked the Gear Head with Graphite Auto CV Joint Grease and sealed the joint to contain the Grease, except for a small section at the front, so if it seeps out there, I'll know if there is a problem again. Runs perfect and sounds like a jet engine on wind down, so hopefully get some more use out of it  :):fingerscrossed: .

Had to do this job as the steel has arrived and I have to cut it up for the Baffles......That's the Weekend arranged then !.

 

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Little bit of progress. So while Ian was cutting up Deck Carrier Bars for his project, I was cleaning and repairing mine:lol:.

Finished all the repairs to the Deck Carrier Frame and painted after adding weld metal to some of the parts -

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Finished cutting the metal for the Baffles and Grinder is good as new :).

Started to put the location of the important bend in the facing plates by improvising a press using the Brick reveals of the garage side Door opening-

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Gave up after getting the bend started, as it was too painful for the old joints (the Baffle shapes are also cut out and finished now).

So to sort the metal bending jobs and future projects, I hit the button and ordered a new 12ton capacity Press so I could manage better.

So a reshuffle is required in the workshop tomorrow.

  

 

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On 26/10/2016 at 9:11 AM, Ian said:

Great work as always Richard.. The 12 ton press will make life easier on the joints :thumbs:

Thanks Ian, Well, I don't know how I survived without a press of some kind in the Workshop. Got this far yesterday-

 

 

DSC01638.jpgOne on the right  need the larger curve finishingDSC01639.jpgThis one just needs a few tweaks

 

Biggest challenge is putting the gentle radius' in and so have to improvise using what is available!. I used various Rod sizes, an old Deck Wheel and I also nicked one off the ATCO to put the bigger curve in :hide: .....needs must..... -

 

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Quite enjoyable doing this bit with the right tool(s)  .

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My turn to say :sorry: for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose.

The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning-

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The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again.

So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just).

 

The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially-

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Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them-

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 I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs.

The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in.

So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon  :fingerscrossed:.    

 

  

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I'm hoping to start on the side discharge deck soon, I brought up from Johns place last August. It's all stripped down and the shell is at a friends have a bit of welding done.

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On 03/07/2017 at 10:31 PM, Stormin said:

I'm hoping to start on the side discharge deck soon, I brought up from Johns place last August. It's all stripped down and the shell is at a friends have a bit of welding done.

Good luck with the project Norm. It's a bit of love/hate relationship doing this deck. I enjoy doing it when able, but frustrating when you find the evidence of the 'Bodger Squad' having been there before you.

I had some nagging doubt about leaving the main Driven Spindle Ass'y as is. There was the slightest evidence of a 'Graunch' in the bearing somewhere. So I torqued up the nut to spec on the double Pulley to find it worsened. I decided to pull it and replace the bearings. The spindle had to be carefully pressed out showing signs of bad scoring and the Oil Seal had been damaged when assembled in the past. Ordered new quality bearings and seals last night and extra spare ones-   

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The top (original) bearing was ok. The bottom one was made in Taiwan with a rubber shield (cheap type) and was the cause.  

 

Progress on the Shell going well. Baffles welded in, sealed and primed. I also decided to plug the 13 unused factory pressed out holes in the shell, as they tend to assist with the rust process and allow grass up into the drive belt area on top-

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Sorry for the last being a tad out of focus. Still some de rusting of the last 3 panels to do (not great fun in hot weather).

Finished shortening the 8 stainless Belt Cover fixing bolts to 1/4 inch so there is little protuberance underneath and starting on the front wheel spindle ass'y.  ........

Lathe Time :).

Regards.

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