Jump to content
revmix

O&R spark coil

Recommended Posts

On 16/11/2017 at 10:39 PM, revmix said:

looking for part # A-149-3 spark coil assy.

 

Do you have one you want to replace or are you completely missing this part?

 

They seem very hard to come by, although I possibly know of one going for around $90, which seems rather steep to me.

 

What engine do you have, I've searched far and wide for alternatives and found *some* that may be suitable.

Edited by Morrisoft

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Model J & missing the complete magneto coil, checked online for similar but nothing yet, may convert it to nitro glow fuel

do you have a link for the alternatives?

Edited by revmix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, revmix said:

Model J & missing the complete magneto coil, checked online for similar but nothing yet, may convert it to nitro glow fuel

do you have a link for the alternatives?

 

This is the link for the original coil assembly:

https://store.chainsawr.com/products/o-r-engines-ignition-coil-a-149-3-new

 

Hopefully this link doesn't violate any rules with admin? Please remove if I've overlooked something. As mentioned I find the price to be somewhat insane, you can get an entire engine for not far off the same price! 

 

In terms of alternatives, they wouldn't be a bolt-on option and may require modification. I can get some links if you struggle to find anything, most were found on a popular auction site, under a 'small engine ignition coil' search.

 

Would be interested in following the build if you DO decide on nitro. Keep us posted :thumbs:

 

Cheers,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/18/2017 at 7:25 PM, revmix said:

Model J & missing the complete magneto coil, checked online for similar but nothing yet, may convert it to nitro glow fuel

do you have a link for the alternatives?

 

:WMOM:

I guess you bought the unused looking Model J engine (with 900rpm output gearbox) with no coil that was on ebay, if it was made before October 1963 it probably has the plastic bearing cages in the engine & die-cast gears in the gearbox, the NIAE tested a couple of these between Jan-May 1963 (report published Feb 1964) and had quite a few problems with the early ones.

 

Possible source of an untested used one here, I would ask the seller to check the resistance of the secondary is OK before buying.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Mighty-Light-Orline-Chainsaw-OEM-Coil-/161674949894?rmvSB=true

 

David

Edited by factory
extra info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah that's the one, it turned out to be NOS, I took off the gearbox cover & everything is in factory original condition, put a few drops of oil in the cylinder & excellent compression

I missed the other one for parts [my offer wasn't the 1st] that was sold for $35

It's no rush for me to find the magneto coil, I could use something similar but would like the OEM

Which serial numbers had problems & what? 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$35 was a bargain for the other engine, you probably couldn't buy the commonly missing spares for that (which were still on it) and I suspect the missing flywheel would have been much easier to find than a coil too.

 

This should probably be in the O&R section, the NIAE test was intended to run the engine for 100 hours to determine the suitably for agricultural use & the maintenance requirements, they concluded that the early engines were only suitable for intermittent use.

The first serial number tested was 030957 (model J), it had problems with the die-cast gears being very badly worn, they got through two sets of gears during a 31 hour test & the first set of gears jammed up due to a broken tooth, the clutch lining material was also worn.

They did tests on a couple more engines (model letters not stated);

  • s/n 030987 with gearbox, this also failed with a broken gear tooth after 20 hours.
  • s/n 030987 with direct drive taken from s/n 030993, test abandoned as the PTO shaft wouldn't stay tight on the taper.
  • s/n 053595 with drive through clutch, this was the longest test (50 hours), it mostly only had minor problems.

O&R stated that the NIAE test was inappropriate for this engine, see below for more info & the design changes from Oct & Dec 1963;

5a1973cfa60e4_NIAEReportPage8a.jpg.47e9109d13868749a6600fa573f2c420.jpg

 

Note that the carb primer push button assembly was available as a kit to update earlier engines, so may not help identify engines made before Oct 1963, but as you've had the gearbox cover off you should be able to tell if the gears are die-cast or steel. The model J featured in the engine rebuild thread is one of these earlier engines with the die-cast gears & cork lined clutch.

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...