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Terry L

Tiny Tiger gas tank repair

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Hi All,

Has anyone removed the bottom steel plate from the gas tank? My fuel screen pickup filter and retainer came off and the tank needs to have a good cleaning. I would like to take the bottom off, clean the inside put the filter and retainer back on and reseal the bottom of the tank. Any ideas on how to remove it and what to use to reseal it?  Terry

Gas Tank 2.JPG

Gas Tank 3.JPG

Gas Tank Filter and retainer.JPG

Gas Tank.JPG

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The same happened with my first O&R (a Tiny Tor, same as The Tiny Tiger but 240V output), all attempts to unblock the filter failed,:( I do have a much better technique for cleaning it now. I learnt a lot from that first restoration.

 

SAM_3158b.jpg.910ce0c677a129eb7dff12c994594a89.jpg

 

I ended up fitting an in-line filter (shown below on a different generator where a previous owner had damaged the tank filter) that was recommended on the previous forum, maybe I should revisit that base tank at some point, I've no idea if the filter can be refitted though as I've never opened one, but I do have some other small tank filters I could use, also I will probably find a leaky base tank eventually.

 

SAM_4824a.jpg.ef1f2420b8fbcdc0da45893e5a90275e.jpg

 

I would use a heat-gun or equivalent to warm up the base & hopefully soften the glue originally used to remove the base, then see if the filter can be repaired.

Before refitting the base clean the old glue from the edges of both tank parts and use a fuel/gas resistant glue to refit the base.

 

David

Edited by factory

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I have done the same thing as David, using inline filters. The guys on the chainsaw site used to use a product called Yamabond for their

tanks.

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17 minutes ago, Webhead said:

The guys on the chainsaw site used to use a product called Yamabond for their

tanks

The best sealant type product for sealing gas tanks as it actually holds up to gasoline

Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

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22 hours ago, Wallfish said:

Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

 

Be careful with any tank that has had fuel/gas in recently if using a blow-torch for heat. :hide: I was thinking to push the base off with something through the filler neck too, once the old glue has been softened with heat.

 

This is the type of in-line filter (Sullivan No.187) I bought for my engines, picture below borrowed from ePay.

 

image.png.dcb3196d484323cc7b5a69187119fae6.png

 

David

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I figured out how to remove the bottom of the Tiny Tiger gas tank and wanted to share how I did this.

 

First make sure all the fuel is out of the gas tank and no flamable vapors are in the tank that could ignite.

I used a heat gun to heat the bottom metal plate and the aluminum around the bottom of the tank to about 350 degrees. I was able to use a wooden dowell to push from the inside of the tank push the cover off.

The filter on the inside of the tank is rubber and will most likely be deteriorated. I removed the rubber filter and shortened the brass tube about 3/4 of an inch and used a chain saw fuel filter that fit over the tube to replace the disinegrated rubber filter.

I made a new paper gasket to replace the original paper gasket for the bottom cover.

Pay close attention to cleaning the bottom cover where the bottom cover and the aluminum housing fit together. It must be exceptionally clean for the adhesive glue to seal well.

I used "Seal All" adhesive which was recommended by the manufacturer for this type of application. "Seal All" may be purchased at most automotive stores.

Apply sealant per instructions on the package and assemble the cover to the tank. I also put a little sealant around the outside of the tank cover after I assembled it.

Some people mentioned the use of "Yamabond" which I am sure could be used as well. 

"Seal All" was only $4 a tube which I believe is cheaper than "Yamabond".   

I have attached pictures as a reference of how I accomplished this.5aa570bf868e0_TTGasTankRepair2.JPG.9005c1ff4521c2ed0466eb7967597699.JPG

 

TT Gas Tank Repair 3.JPG

TT Gas Tank Repair 6.JPG

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Well done and thanks for sharing the pictures, I've never seen the inside of one of those tanks before, will have to have a go at replacing the filter in mine sometime.

 

Seal-All seems to be available over here as well as Threebond (Yamabond?), there are probably others that would work if you read through the data-sheets and check how others have got on with them, also check the shelf-life too (seems to be two years for Seal-All).

Note; I've removed the reference to epoxy resin from my earlier post as it doesn't look suitable.

 

David

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Nice work on the tank repair and thanks for sharing your experience.

One concern might be if it's better to extend the tube with fuel line when using that type of a fuel pick up so it lays down horizontal at the bottom. Not sure, but it seems like it may start sucking air before using the bottom 1/3 of fuel. Hope that's not the case here as those tanks don't hold much fuel as it is.

Curious about the "rubber" original pick up. I've never had one of these specific tanks open either but all the others that have been opened used a small metal cone with a screen. Can you post a pic of the old rubber pick up?

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Hi John,

These are the pictures of the rubber fuel tank pickup filter. You are correct about the rubber hose. I did consider your idea but this was the filter I had and I believe it will pickup fuel within a 1/4 inch of the bottom of the tank. I wanted to post some pictures of the final product as well. I did have to make a new air filter which I copied from one I saw on this site. It seemed to work out well. Is the orientation in the top of the cyclinder critical? My book doesn't reference orientation but I have read that it should parallel the crank shaft?All in all the project seemed to turn out well. 

 

Thank you to everyone for all your help and guidance on this project!

 

Terry

Rubber Fuel Tank Pickup 1.JPG

Rubber Fuel Tank Pickup 2.JPG

Restored Motor 1.JPG

Restored Motor 2.JPG

Restored Motor 3.JPG

Restored Motor 4.JPG

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Terry, that thing is looking really good, and thanks for the tutorial. The real question is: Is it running???

PS love the filter housing. You could make some money selling those things, everybody needs one!

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On 3/17/2018 at 8:39 PM, Terry L said:

I did have to make a new air filter which I copied from one I saw on this site. It seemed to work out well. Is the orientation in the top of the cyclinder critical? My book doesn't reference orientation but I have read that it should parallel the crank shaft?All in all the project seemed to turn out well.

 

I take it the original air filter was missing? they are often missing as Webhead said (although not every application used them & some of the saws had different types fitted).

The replacement you've made looks very nice, anyone with access to a lathe should be able to make one too, no idea if it would be profitable to sell them though (also there is still an incorrectly listed original one on ebay).

 

The manual states that the slot in the top of the cylinder should be either in-line with the crankshaft or at right angles to it, you've got it correctly fitted.

 

David

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