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Rayp

Skilshop Chainsaw Clutch

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I have a Skilshop chainsaw model 1712 -Type 3 (see photo 1) and although the engine runs the chain does not cut well and slows down during use.  I previously asked HeadExam for advice and he suggested it might be either the sprocket in the guidebar or the clutch.

The guidebar sprocket moves freely so I think the problem may be the clutch.

Having removed the cover I am stuck as I do not know how to remove the clutch for inspection.  As can be seen in photo 2 there is a very thin hexagon nut on the clutch with a directional arrow and I do not know whether this unscrews or the clutch needs to be removed with a puller.

Can anyone help please?

P1010317.JPG

P1010316.JPG

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Hello Ray, It's likely the Clutch is slipping and needs cleaning.

Usually due to oil getting on the Shoe faces. The rotation Arrow on the Thin Nut depicts both the rotation of the Engine/Shaft and the direction to undo the nut (left hand thread).

To undo it, it is best to remove the Pullstart mechanism on the other side to expose the Flywheel to find a point where you can 'Lock' the rotation with a short piece of wood between Flywheel and Saw Body (don't use the Fins). 

Edit- you may be able to use the Flywheel nut to oppose the Undo action of the Clutch.

Reverse process for reassembly where when done, the engine will run against the nut and tighten it also.   

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4 hours ago, Anglo Traction said:

Hello Ray, It's likely the Clutch is slipping and needs cleaning.

Usually due to oil getting on the Shoe faces. The rotation Arrow on the Thin Nut depicts both the rotation of the Engine/Shaft and the direction to undo the nut (left hand thread).

To undo it, it is best to remove the Pullstart mechanism on the other side to expose the Flywheel to find a point where you can 'Lock' the rotation with a short piece of wood between Flywheel and Saw Body (don't use the Fins). 

Edit- you may be able to use the Flywheel nut to oppose the Undo action of the Clutch.

Reverse process for reassembly where when done, the engine will run against the nut and tighten it also.   

1

 

With most saws the eaiest way of locking the engine (bar having the correct dummy spark plug with a nylon buffer) is to remove the plug and poke two or the inches of heavy duty starter cord down into the cylinder and then rotate the engine in the appropriate direction to compress the cord and lock the crank. No danger of slipping and consequent damage, or have I missed something unique to this situation?

 

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Make sure you turn clockwise to remove the nut, I use a disc grinder spanner tool on some of these with a pipe on the end for leverage that way the pins can get a better hold on the clutch than the wrench or spanner face can on the nut

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Thank you all for your advice and suggestions.  I now know how to remove the clutch and hopefully a good clean will solve the problem.

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On 4/9/2018 at 9:28 AM, Rayp said:

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions.  I now know how to remove the clutch and hopefully a good clean will solve the problem.

I doubt cleaning the clutch will solve the problem, the clutch shoes wear on the inside of the hub and both need to be replaced periodically. The unven spacing between the two clutch shoes and the hubs inticates that both are nearly worn out, the springs are usually replaced at this time as well as the clutch bearing.

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Thanks for your reply Headexam.  I have cleaned the clutch and replaced it but not tried it. I will give it a try and if the problem is still there I will have another look at the spacing with a view to replacing the parts you suggest.

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2 hours ago, Rayp said:

Thanks for your reply Headexam.  I have cleaned the clutch and replaced it but not tried it. I will give it a try and if the problem is still there I will have another look at the spacing with a view to replacing the parts you suggest.

In checking the clutch do inspect the backside of the hub where the sprocket is as well. A worn sprocket will allow the chain to slip and hinder performance.

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