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Ian

Project "Why Not"

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interesting collection in the trailer Ian :D

 

Dig deeper and you never know what you will find :D

There's odd's n sods of metal that have been following me around for years!

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the pinky blue thing on top intrigued me most :D

 

It's your for the right price mate :D

 

I do have something fitting planned for the pinky blue thing, but I need to get the 6x6 fixed first :D

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Evening all, a bit of an update for you though I'm a bit limited on what I can do at the mo due to no welding rods.. Fingers crossed they will turn up tomorrow.. I should be getting on with my 6x6 but can't, so had a play with "Why Not" today instead :D

 

Starting with a strip down to the bare bones..

 

WN61_zps208ff045.jpg

 

 

The hood and a spare front axle went on so I could take some measurements..

 

WN62_zpsd054b430.jpg

 

 

The chassis all marked out ready for slicing.

 

WN63_zps406d7641.jpg

 

 

All the above actually happened yesterday, the measuring and marking out took quite a while, as I only have the one chassis and didn't want to mes it up!

 

So today the grinder came out, off came the front..

 

WN64_zpsc4546b9a.jpg

 

 

And a bit came off the back..

 

WN65_zpsfa3093f0.jpg

 

 

I'm sure you can guess what's coming next.. Yep the front was fitted to the back :D

 

WN66_zps6a31b266.jpg

 

 

Due to a lack of welding rods still I had to dig out my Mig welder which is ok on sheet metal, but not much good at thicker stuff as you can tell by the blobs of weld!

 

WN67_zps3f84a3aa.jpg

 

 

Not convinced that the blob of Mig weld would hold any kind of weight I had a dig about on the shack floor and the bench and found a few little bit's of welding rod like this one!

 

WN69_zpse3b68535.jpg

 

 

More blobs of weld, only this time much stronger.. It will be fully welded up when I can.

 

WN68_zps19425b0f.jpg

 

 

The front hitch/axle mount was next for the chop..

 

WN70_zps9bc54207.jpg

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Thanks James, I hope so too!

 

 

The front end bolted back together. The trimmed down steering rod thingy will gain a bearing and sprocket so I can move the steering down and run it under the engine WH style.

 

WN71_zps9970e11b.jpg

 

 

A "Batman" camera angle of the front.

 

WN72_zps8b940dc4.jpg

 

 

As the chassis is upside down so is the front hitch/axle mount.

 

WN73_zps862a9762.jpg

 

 

I was going to leave these off, but some extra strength by welding them back on the right way up would be a good thing.. It will also be handy for hanging a weight box on the front as I have a feeling the front wheels may want to lift a little under hard acceleration :D

 

WN74_zps7551360f.jpg

 

 

Hood and engine plonked back on to have a look.. Not sure I like the axle so far forward!

 

WN75_zps30301380.jpg

 

 

Looks like I might have to chop the base of the hood about so it will clear the steering!

 

WN76_zps2ae78b51.jpg

 

 

Rear wheels roughly in place.. It's looking a bit empty back there!

 

WN78_zpsa3613906.jpg

 

 

So I thought I would plonk the bit of the bike frame with the engine mounts on to see how it looked... Er, it's looks like half a bike frame!

 

WN79_zpsf6517b51.jpg

 

 

The next thought was to just use the mounts and replace the bit of frame with some strong box section. The trouble was the only place both top and bottom mount are flush is here! If I welded some box in I wouldn't be able to get the starter motor out without taking the engine out!

 

WN80_zpsc2352cdb.jpg

 

 

And then while relaxing with the last coffee and smoke of the day in the shack I had an idea!!

 

If I chop this mount off about where the scratched on line is, let it drop down by 90 degrees and turn it around it will end up very close to the chassis and tucked under the engine. The top mount mount can be tied into the frame that will hold the body on.

 

WN83_zps1e94e2ef.jpg

 

 

Oh, and I got the front of the hood sitting much closer to the axle.. Only a little chopping will be needed and it looks much better :D

 

WN82_zps1ea463fe.jpg

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Coming on Ian. I kind of like the axle sticking out at the front. ;)

 

Thanks Norm, yeah I like the axle out front look too.. Kinda old fashioned T bucket hot rod sort of look :D

 

 

 

Could you not put the 'track rod ends' under the steering arms and then lower the whole 'steering rod thingy'

 

I'm hoping I won't have to slice into the hood, It's very close at the moment. It all depends on how high or low the engine finally sits..

 

 

 

Turn my back for 10 mins and it all kicks off :D

Looking good :thumbs:

 

Thanks mate, I'm not sure about it looking good at the mo.. It certainly looked good when it was a pile of parts, it's hard now to picture the final product until I get some more of the body on :)

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Sorry the planned update is a bit later than advertised, I've been playing the waiting game, but finally late Monday afternoon I had a large er.. parcel delivered, and a smaller one with some much needed welding rods :)

The GT's 3 point with some extensions fixed on was ideal for moving a large lump of metal to the shack :D

WN84_zps4e447940.jpg

Even though it was late in the day I had to throw the quad axle (from a Qwakasaki KLF300B) on the bench to have a look at it in roughly the right position..  Hhhmmm, wide springs to mind!

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A closer look at the quad axle, it came with the quad mounting arms which I won't be needing..

WN87_zps1a2ba505.jpg

But it also came with a diff lock that operates the small lever on the top of the diff.. A diff lock will be handy :D

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One thing I didn't realize until after I had paid for the axle was if I used it the right way up then I would have no forward and 5 reverse gears!!  Not a problem I thought, just flip the axle over and the drive will be going in the right direction..

What I didn't know until Mark (Meadowfield) mentioned it (this was before the axle was delivered), was quad axles have lot's of oil breather pipes that would all need to be moved!   Here's one of them behind the brake drum..

WN89_zps7659e9d9.jpg

Not a problem I thought, just unbolt all 6 bolt's holding the axle case to the diff and turn the axle case around by 180 degrees..

WN90_zps1c9b95b5.jpg

By this point on Monday evening I was feeling quite tired, so I reversed the wheels to see if it looked a bit narrower, and called it a day.

WN91_zps637627cc.jpg


Even though I should be getting on with welding my 6x6 back together for a show early next month, I just had to spend a day playing with "Why Not" and working things out a bit more, like how to get 5 bolt Wheel Horse wheels onto this 4 bolt hub!

The two options are make an adapter ring thingy that will convert 4 bolt to a 5 bolt pattern or make the Wh wheels a 4 bolt pattern.. Not sure which way to go yet!

WN93_zps6ddc0a9b.jpg

After what felt like ages battling with bolts that had rusted solid into bushes all the old quad suspension arms came off!

WN95_zps10aaec2c.jpg

Time to flip the axle over, so the 6 bolt's holding the narrower side came out..

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But only 3 of the 6 bolt holes lined up!!  Why Qwakasaki couldn't space the 6 holes evenly apart I just don't know!

WN97_zps2a3a4f04.jpg

Plan B it is then.. Off came the brake drum, the first one I've ever seen with an oil/dirt seal on the outside diameter!

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A bit dusty inside but not too bad.. But the good news is the 4 bolts that hold the brake assembly are evenly spaced apart :D

WN98_zpsbbd8274c.jpg

Which meant I could rotate the brakes each side by 180 degrees to get the breather pipes up top and then flip the whole axle over which not only get's the drive the right way around but also help the prop shaft line up with the bike engines gearbox much better.

WN100_zps6374b6f2.jpg

The diff drain plug can easily have a hold drilled through the center to fit a breather pipe to :D

WN101_zps32c8420a.jpg

So there you go, all up to date :)

I should be cracking on with getting the 6x6 done today, but instead if plans come together I will be buying a rather handy tool that will change the ways I do my builds by opening up a whole new ways of doing things... But more on that later :D

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good stuff - I forgot they have lip seals on the brake drums. Given the depth and amount of mud and water they go through the brakes wouldn't last two minutes!!!!

 

keep it up :D

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good stuff - I forgot they have lip seals on the brake drums. Given the depth and amount of mud and water they go through the brakes wouldn't last two minutes!!!!

 

keep it up :D

 

The lip seals could be handy when I'm hammering it sideways across a muddy field :D

 

 

 

looking good Ian, lemme guess that handy bit of tool is a mill?

 

 

Koen

 

Spot on Koen :D

 

 

Nothing new to report on "Why Not", so have a little video to pass the time :D

 

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NICE!!! :thumbs: Im loving this Hotrod wheelhorse build. I cant see the videos being very long at all when its finished, just a cloud of dust, nice noise and 'there he was gone!'  ;)

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Thanks guys, I wish I had an update for you but I don't as the search is on yet again for another rear axle..!

 

But I have thought of a use for the quad axle though.. well bit's of it..

 

If I chop the ends off including driveshafts, fit an extra bearing in the end and weld on a strong bit of bar...   It's a good start at front wheel hubs with brakes.... It's just a thought..

 

WN103_zps0dc6ad1c.jpg

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Just a thought here chaps.. The diff in the quad axle is very much past it's best.. I can't weld the diff up solid as the only way to get to the spur gears is though a 1" x 1/2" hole!   arc welding rods would work but it would leave the diff full of welding slag which isn't ideal..

So, can anyone think of something I can fill the diff up with that will set hard, lock the diff up giving me a permanent diff lock, and is hard wearing enough not to get chewed up by the diff?

 

I will get a photo later to show you what I mean..

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I like your thinking, and a do have enough old lead pipe to do the job :)

Do you think it will be up to the job? as the diff is shot I have nothing to lose by giving it a whirl..

 

I've just wobbled out to the shack to grab a couple of photo's..

 

With the filler cap removed all you can see is a solid looking cast lump inside that's  got the spur gears etc hiding in it..

 

WN104_zps20e55d5f.jpg

 

 

But in one place there is access to the diff innards which I could poor the lead through..

 

WN105_zps9dfb9a25.jpg

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You need to split the casing Ian and look inside. It might shim up enough to be serviceable again. What's the model number of the quad? Can we look at the parts manual and see?

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dont think lead will work the diff will chew it to pieces its too soft me thinks

 

 

i think it will be to soft ian we used to weld the diffs up on our race minis and they would still brake with 82hp through them

 

I think you may well both be right.. Maybe I should mix a load of nails in the lead to stiffen it up :lol:

 

 

 

You need to split the casing Ian and look inside. It might shim up enough to be serviceable again. What's the model number of the quad? Can we look at the parts manual and see?

 

The quad was a Kawasaki KLF300B Mark... Yes I should really crack it open and have a look and see what's going on inside..

 

Watching 2 Reliant rear ends on Fleabay at the mo also, so anything could happen :)

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