Jump to content
Stormin

C-120 refurb.

Recommended Posts

  As one or two know I acquired a C-120 off Chris (The Showman) at Newby Hall.

 

  One of the things it required was a new nearside driveshaft seal. On removing the wheel and hub, I could detect some play in the bearing. After some thought I decided to replace the bearings as well. Left alone new seals would only wear quicker. The transmission was left to drain. Actually left for a couple of weeks.

  Today I thought I'd remove the trans, but I got a little carried away.

 

post-111-0-89239800-1404761647_thumb.jpg

 

post-111-0-27500900-1404761680_thumb.jpg

 

Spot the missing bit.

 

post-111-0-37198900-1404761722_thumb.jpg

 

post-111-0-73541800-1404761754_thumb.jpg

 

post-111-0-83465900-1404761787_thumb.jpg

 

post-111-0-93346400-1404761821_thumb.jpg

 

post-111-0-71527000-1404761861_thumb.jpg

 

  That's it so far. A rolling chassis and a pile of bits. The tin ware is in surprisingly good condition. Thankfully! Apart from the missing corner bit, no holes or gaps where there shouldn't be any. :D

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's very easy to get carried away when working on WH's :D

That missing corner bit is a standard feature on C series, I've seen it loads of times.

 

So what's your plans now you have pulled her apart Norm? Resto, worker or something different? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it could evolve into a bit of custom. Nothing too exotic or along your lines. Time will tell. Look how long it took me to get the C-81 back together. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it could evolve into a bit of custom. Nothing too exotic or along your lines. Time will tell. Look how long it took me to get the C-81 back together. :D

 

I like the word "evolve".. Just make a start on it and see where the path leads you :)

 

av-38_zps14280a08.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good start Norm, but the part you started to do is the only part you havnt taken off yet

 

Oh yes it is Chris. The old seal is on the bench. I put the hub and wheel back on.  :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Progress so far today.

 

 Chassis and trans split.

 

post-111-0-88759600-1404818832_thumb.jpg

 

A pile of bits.

 

post-111-0-42152800-1404818898_thumb.jpg

 

Just hope I can remember where everything goes. I have taken some photo's but probally not enough.

 

Next, clean up the box and split. Typically only one drive shaft bearing needs replacing. But both will be done and anything else needed.

 

Anything to watch out for as I split the box? Any particular way to do it without bits falling everywhere?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trans' box now in bits. Found lots of needle rollers in the bottom, cage from main ball bearing and the end of the dipstick.

 

post-111-0-71236600-1404834404_thumb.jpg

 

Main bearing, now extracted with assistance from a large tyre lever, hammer and thick cloth.

 

post-111-0-47562000-1404834529_thumb.jpg

 

The outer race of the needle roller bearing is proving more obstinate. Think I'll have to take it up to the farm and apply some heat to the case.

 

I also found the drive pulley welded to its shaft.

 

post-111-0-50803100-1404834732_thumb.jpg

 

I may grind it off, or maybe just leave it alone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  I tried the weld bead. Didn't work. The trouble was the shell was so thin walled and I couldn't get behind it to knock it out. Got the farm gas bottles and got things nice and hot. The shell red hot. That softened the shell a bit and I was able to carefully squash it in with a chisel. :D

 

 Now all I need are bearings and seals. Now have I got this right?

 

 Needle roller bearing - 1-1/8 x 1-3/8 x 1.

 

 Axle seal SKF 11050.

 

 Brake shaft seal SKF 7410.

 

 

 Still can't make my mind up about the drive pulley. Leave on or try to get off? :scratchhead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haven't got numbers to hand but these are what i ordered.

 

Axle 1-1/8 x 1-3/8 x 1/8

Brake 3/4 x 1 x 1/8

 

I would look at changing input shaft, all mine have leaked there!!!

 

I'd get the pulley off - just to sort the seal. If you lose the end there's no huge detriment

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sizes tally with seals I've removed, Mark. Numbers came from RS.

 

Job for tomorrow if time. Pulley off. I'll see about getting the chassis and front axle blasted as well. The sooner it's a rolling chassis again the better.

 

Found a plastic dustbin round the back of the shed. So I'll be having a go at making an E-tank for the other bits.

 

BTW. How did this thread get hot so fast? :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I got the drive pulley off this morning. Found why it had been welded on. No key.

 

 Next job to get the shaft seal out. No way was it coming out with shaft in place, so no choice but to remove the shaft. That started an in depth lesson in Wheel Horse transmission boxes. I'll not go into to much detail , suffice to say you do not need to remove the selector forks shafts. The detent balls can be a right pain to put back. :rolleyes:

 

 Anyway, I now know what bearings and seals are required. I also now require the shoulder bolt for the high/low selector fork. Slight mishap and it's sapped the threads off.

 

 This is what it looks like if anyone can help with a replacement.

 

post-111-0-31363500-1404995916_thumb.jpg

 

In one piece, please. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can understand why the key was missing, it's very easy to push the key out when pushing the pulley on.. Don't it myself with realizing until I noticed I had no drive! :)

 

Looks like your having fun with the trans Norm, Sorry I can't help you with the high/low selector fork bolt..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Thanks Chris. Just be careful. Mine snapped like a wet sock. Looking at the break it looks flawed though.

 

 Another little problem is the lift lever components.  The R clips came out easy, but the centre tubing is well stuck on the shaft. I'll take it up to the farm tomorrow and apply some heat.

 

Why do we start these things. :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...