Is there a way to adjust the drive speed or do you need to adjust the drive speed by the throttle control? Only thing with that is the mower is near enough at idle for a slow drive pace or is that correct? 

Thanks

I am looking for the gear of the hedge trimmer. It measures 70 mm in diameter and has 68 teeth.

Do you know anyone who might have one for sale? If so, how can I contact them and at what price?

I searched online and found nothing.

Thank you in advance.

M.Garnier

I’m looking into purchasing a handheld laser welder for use in my small metal fabrication workshop. Most of my projects involve stainless steel and mild steel parts, with occasional work on aluminum. I’m particularly interested in understanding the key factors to consider, such as:

• Recommended wattage for medium-thickness materials

• Cooling system types (air vs. water) and their maintenance needs

• Brand reliability and after-sales support

• Real-world efficiency compared to traditional MIG/TIG welding

If you have hands-on experience, I’d appreciate your insights on performance, operating costs, and any potential pitfalls to avoid when selecting a model.

Thanks in advance for your guidance!

Regards Joe

many thanks

enthusiast required 
Spares or repair stood for 10 years in a shed
Too good to send to the scrap yard 
Complete with collection bag x2
And manual

This is going to be my last post about Suffolk punch mowers as I don’t think anyone is interested. The project is fully designed with detailed drawings of all the parts but I have snipped out just one extract so you can get an idea of how it goes together. If anyone wants the full set of drawings I would be happy to put a copy in the files section. 

Many thanks

The project was made more difficult by not at the time being able to find an oversize piston or even just oversize rings. I researched other options and eventually found a set of suitable rings which were suitable for a 52mm bore. 

I have attached a few images, no explanation as I am guessing that anyone who wants to do this probably does not need an explanation? Very important to get the gudgeon pin at 90 degrees to the cylinder. Suffolk punch pistons are not cam ground but they do need to be tapered.  
 

I hope someone with one of these engines finds this of interest. You need a lathe with a minimum of 9" swing

I have what I'm told is an old Wolseley Rough cutter, I'm also told it's probably a Briggs 5hp. I am here to find out more about it. It's been sat in my parents garage for 20+ years. I only have this one picture, but I will be getting more tomorrow 
 

I am a fan among other things of  Suffolk punch mowers with Suffolk iron foundry engine. I have attached a picture, both of these 75cc mowers are in use, the 14" mower will be refurbished sometime over the next couple of years, the 12" mower has been re-purposed so it has a new life as a scarifier which is what I would like to talk about in a few forthcoming posts. The 75cc iron engine on the 12" has also been slightly modified using my lathe and milling machine, more to follow...    

https://www.wychbearings.co.uk

I know this has been covered before, but i have a few specific questions which you may be able to help me with please.

I have been given another Hayter 21 which was destined for scrap. I hate to see these lovely old machines lost so am trying to work out if its worth saving (economically) . The Deck is all solid, disc/blades all good, engine started briefly so I know I can fix that (I have a spare anyway), tyres are completely shot, clutch lever operates perfectly (locks out) BUT has no effect on the drive. This appears to be an ex council machine unless they were ever produced in yellow ! Serial number on a brass plate 3 3998 so i think its one of the first ?. I have dismantled the drive casing and discovered why it wasn't driving. The inboard clutch disc is completely loose and the outboard clutch disc is firmly glued to the wheel hub !

This is the older design with a simple split pin securing the wheel (not threaded). I have downloaded the manual which was kindly added to the site, but the componentry is obviously quite different.

The clutch operates on two springs (one inside the other) not the series of 5 spring discs as per the manual. The shaft passes through a bearing and is located by a circlip (see photo). There is only a tiny bit of end float between the circlip and the bearing, and all the PB bushes appear to be in good nick.

My questions are:

1) Has anyone purchased new clutch discs for a 21 ? And if so can you give me an approximation of the cost ?

2) Did you send the sprocket away to have them fitted or glue them yourself (JB Weld ?)

3) I presume the originals contain asbestos so should be removed with caution ?

4) As far as adjustment on this older design, presumably its just a case of getting the clutch arm parallel ?

Appreciate any advice.

Thanks 

Does anyone have any Clinton engines for sale ? Doesn’t matter the model really, so all considered. Running or not  
 

Thanks and best wishes,

John