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Part of the fun of collecting the crawlers was meeting new people with shared enthusiasm for these machines. Strangely, going through all my glory holes and pulling out all the machines and spares I have and then dealing with new enthusiasts looking for parts has been equal fun it is good to know that as a result of my bits many other machines will be up and running.It has also been really pleasing to see that many of the enthusiasts are youngsters late teens and early twenties as well as the older group. I still have piles of stuff to go through so if anyone is needing a particular part I am happy to have a look and see if I have one.

I found this stray on ebay and got it running and cutting again. I didn't have much hope for the bar and chain, but I tried soaking it in vinegar for 48 hrs. and was very happy with the results. Here are a couple of pics of the new addition. I'd like to paint the right side cover like the other parts, but have to figure out a way to save the decals. I also need to make or buy the exhaust extension to mount the muffler. It's very loud without it, to say the least!

I took some pictures earlier today to show the technique I use to join the wires & leads of the diodes together, I'll get them edited & uploaded tomorrow as it's quite late now. David Here is how I made the join for the wiring in my TT, demonstrated with wire from a scrap wiring loom, the technique used for the wire loops dates back a very long time, I first saw it used in a pre-war radio for joining multiple wires & components together (before printed circuit boards existed). The wires before & after tinning with fresh tin/lead solder (note: do not tin wires if using crimp or wire-nut connections). To make the loops I use standard tinned copper wire (aka fuse wire), I have a few different wire gauges for joining different thickness cables, choose a drill bit or something else that is a bit larger than the cables to be joined, wrap a few turns of the tinned copper wire around & cut to length. I've shown a couple of sizes I made and if you leave a length a wire as shown they can be used in other things for extending component leads. Slide the loop over the tinned wires to be joined (for a continuous length of wire slide the sleeving on before soldering). The whole lot soldered together with tin/lead solder and here are some finished joins ready for sleeving. Hopefully this will be useful to others. David

Finally got around to getting the "Roper 38" tiller working, modified the hitch pickup mountings to match the 3 point on my C121. My 3 point was originally going to be hydraulic, but getting the geometry right without the whole lot hanging too far back was awkward, due to the under seat fuel tank. So I used a winch instead. This is rated at 2000 lbs with a " snatch block " pulley mounted on the lift arm cross brace, the tiller weighs around 250lbs. I've taken a few photos, but only after everything was fitted.

Hi all, I would like to test the waters regarding the Ransomes MG2 Flywheel. I am aerospace design engineer by trade and run a small engineering company in the UK with several CNC machines. Although I am an MG5 owner, it has come to my attention that the MG2 flywheel is prone to failure. Neil Jarret has kindly posted me one to inspect, and with his knowledge I am pleased to say that we have an accurate 3D CAD model and engineering technical drawing. I am therefore proposing running a small batch of these, however, before I do so I would like to gauge the level of interest & commitment from the market place. The last thing I want is shelf full of MG2 flywheels on my hands for years to come. So, if you are interested, then please post or comment below. I will then take your details and add you to the list to effectively 'reserve' one for you. Flywheels will be manufactured from EN8 Steel and Clear Zinc Passivated. Price: £194.95 each. All items are manufactured in the United Kingdom.

David, I really like the technique, thank you for sharing the details. I finally got the wires prepped with shrink tubing.

The Hitches are too long when installed to allow the 3 point to operate. The clevis hitch can be left on the unit by pulling the pin, reversing the hitch and refitting the pin. I found it was quicker and easier to have two hitches, clevis and ball, and swop them over than keep fitting and removing the tow ball, now no tools needed! Besides, I need to use up all the "scrap" I collected before I retired. All of this, less nuts, bolts, winch, tow ball, lower lift arms, some pins and the paint were " liberated" from the scrap metal skip!

Well I think I've found why that O&R double diaphragm pump assembly isn't seen, it's part no. #400016 which is shown on some parts list dating from Jan 1970. It looks to have been quietly dropped from use, as the master price list supplement from Apr 1971 says to use part no. #400175 (no description of the part), but I found a picture of this part I saved from the web and surprise surprise it's a standard diaphragm pump assembly. David

I sold Harry my MG40 last year Jon so it will have some play mates now🤦🤣