Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/29/2023 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    pmackellow

    Stationary Engine Magazine

    The latest copy of Stationary Engine magazine arrived today, complete with a small article on some of our Ohlsson Rice machines...
  2. 5 points
    Prof

    Stormin

    I spoke to Carol yesterday and she said no flowers, Norm would have hated the waste of money, but any donations to Cancer Research, a family member has terminal cancer.. She's was calling Norm an old bugger because she'd been in his shed and found out how many tractors he had. She didn't know. Wonder what else she'll find.
  3. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling. Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !. As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues. Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! - Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later- I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling. This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit. The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable. Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads - The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell. The plate was then set up to drill the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss- Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth. The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all - The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear. It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! - Regards
  4. 4 points
    Stormin

    Dalmain Classic Car Show.

    Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
  5. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thank you Gents!. Still learning as I go and making reasonable progress. Finished the parts for the front caster assembled here with a temporary bolt, so just the wheel to make- I had to make the 1/2" BSF Pin Bolt to ensure a good fit and with fine adjustment. I have some 15/16" AF high carbon Hex steel, so set to and turned one up on the lathe- Also made a nut. I bit the bullet and started 'tacking' the frame joints and managed to continue with reasonble weld joints to form a strong frame. I wll need to get the upper surface joints properly done. The mahogany planks have been cut and temporarily fitted for trimming to bring the surface level with the frame's surface. Embelishments include a brass nut cover to keep it weather tight- .........and we all like to 'trial assemble', so this gives a better image of the project- Regards
  6. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia- Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing. Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first- I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table. As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions- I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate- Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled. Regards
  7. 4 points
    pmackellow

    Newby Hall Tractorfest 2023

    Just had a great weekend in North Yorkshire at Tractorfest. We took our 1968 Wheelhorse Commando 8 and trailed Wheelhorse aerator Mark Smith organised the 2023 Wheelhorse Roundup and got 25 tractors this year.
  8. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip. The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation- Regards
  9. 4 points
    Lauren1985

    Hayter Osprey

    Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016 5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge) It runs great Lauren
  10. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thanks guys, Enjoyed making the shroud and working it out as I went along. Done with that now and the engine sports a N.O.S Lodge C3 Plug- Be a while before nexrt update, have to plan for the chassis layout etc.
  11. 4 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Just about finished the copperwork on the Cowling now which should now provide more efficient removal of heat and keep the intake side cooler- Carb side additional shroud will be riveted on, as the full shroud can be fitted and removed ok. The plate on the exhaust side will have to be detachable.
  12. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Not a lot of progress, what with the cold spell of the last 3 weeks. Confined myself in the warmer environment of the Lounge. Too cold in the workshop. Have been designing and drawing up the Fuel fittings I require. Nothing 'off the shelf' will suit, so making my own and using a 1950s ATCO Pet Cock as a guide. Got some Lathe time in over last few days and started turning up a Taper Reamer blank, then a first Pet Cock plug at the same settings. Got to produce several of these so I have a stock. The taper angle is 7 degrees inclusive . The little levers that screw into the plug are threaded 5/32" Whitworth, so making them the same - Had to keep to Imperial, not easy to mix metric on these, plus I have been asked to reproduce an old Pet Cock style for a restoration. Ready to part off the finished plug from the rod and make the next one now. The reamer blank is next to finish machining the cutting edges, then harden, temper and hone. Quite pleased really, as the new plug actually fits perfectly in the old tap body, so I got the angle right. Regards.
  13. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thank you Gents for your positive comments. Lot of work sorting the Reduction Unit design set up. I needed to provide stanchions for the tank(s) support and location, bearing support for the fan drive, Pto clutch lever mount point and lubricator positions, all in one area. I decided on brass plates for extending up to fan shaft line. Started with an old 12 inch (305mm) square plate shown during marking out- After lot of cutting and careful drilling time, I was able to fit it and began the stiffening with bracing layout and fittng the welded and shaped stanchions. Lubrication connections made to fit into the large brass bearings, then made/fitted the mountings for the Lubricators. These Lubricators were found in an old barn in France about 15 years ago and are shown in the very first image of this Topic. Had to anneal the thick walled copper pipes, shaped to fit using a home made tube bender also shown in the image below- Had to use incompatible metals in this unit (electrolytic/galvanic reaction risk), so will have to be careful to seal the mating surfaces of the Aluminium and Brass parts, even though they will be polished and lacquered. Hoping to get this unit''s mounting plate/support welded up soon. Regards and wishing all a Happy New Year
  14. 3 points
    Twinsport

    Zündapp 600 generating set

    Greetings from Denmark, I think we need more german stuff here . I have this portable (well - 305 kilos, no wheels) generator as used by the german forces in WW2. They were built from 1940 well into the 1950's. This particular one is from 1944, which can be seen from many details made from steel, which, on the earlier versions were made from aluminium. The generator set delivers 7,5kW on three phases. The engine is a 600cc Zündapp boxer, which makes it very smooth even at full load. This one is fully functional, but most have defective generators these days. /Steen Markings
  15. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thanks Gents, Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion. Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly- It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims- One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side. Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim. Regards.
  16. 3 points
    Mike in NC

    Let's see some Briggs Collections

    Here are some of mine, as well as a link to our website. First is a 1942 Briggs U, second is a 1925 Briggs FE Gallon base, third is a 1924 Briggs FC, ;ast is a 1938 IBHP. Mike & Jen's Old Engines Our Briggs Collection Mike & Jen's Old Engines
  17. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting. Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm. After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point - Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it. I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! - Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - Regards
  18. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, it goes well with the polished brass parts- Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design. Regards
  19. 3 points
    Anglo Traction

    Pto clutch linings

    Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings. I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference - A&IFS Itd I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!. The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.- Regards. Richard
  20. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-
  21. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards
  22. 2 points
    Wallfish

    repairing broken starter dogs

    Well, got one done anyway. Took much longer to do than anticipated. I cut some of that blue spring steel I ordered for making the carb springs. The first stuff I ordered was too thick for the carb springs and it finally found a purpose. Sliced a long thin piece off then heated and bent the edge of it into a circle to fit in the dogleg hole. Drilled out the old stuff. Put the new spring in place then dropped solder in. The bubble of solder was big so I also hammered it so it would stay very tight. Filed off the remainder and cut the spring to length. Seems to work well. UGH, only 7 more to go! I like that gun bluing stuff so I'll probably clean them all up and coat them with that too.
  23. 2 points
    Wallfish

    rebuild another one for 2024

    Happy New Year! This is a model J gearbox engine from a Polaris Power Pole snow blower. Recently member @seb T was asking about a gearbox for a Devillaine Ouragan car. So I had the engine out anyway and needed to pull the gearbox to verify if it would fit his engine. Well I might as well rebuild everything. Gearbox with a new seal and gaskets. Plus the entire engine just in case he is interested in a completely rebuilt package. Got everything cleaned up tonight. Tomorrow I'll remove the head and re-ring the piston and put her back together.
  24. 2 points
    JUST O&R

    rebuild another one for 2024

    hens teeth are something very hard to find if you have never seen them you properly never will . some of use have seen them and may never see them again some of us have them and do not know it . some of us don't want to see them . some of us have know idea what they are . I'm sorry I miss this I wish I had more time to do it
  25. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)- I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted- . The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table- When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies. All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance- A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me. Regards
  26. 2 points
    CNew

    Older style recoil handles

    That did “turn” out nice. I agree, the rings are a nice flare but not needed.
  27. 2 points
    Wallfish

    Muffler cold blue

    Hammer restoration huh? Man you're really getting into the crazy tech stuff. Just bust'n, please let me know how it works out.
  28. 2 points
    JUST O&R

    Tiny Tiger model 400 rebuild

    I see your working at record pace did you get kicked out of the house again
  29. 2 points
    Wallfish

    Older style recoil handles

    We texted today about it and I mentioned a couple others might be interested in them too so he said he could make a template so they all come out the same. Once perfected it will be easier and faster to make them.
  30. 2 points
    Pulled this one off the shelf to clean up and rebuild for the next project. It's in fairly nice condition so no painting need. That's one of the nice things about these little engines. It's cold outside so these can be done inside and right on my office desk where it's warm. I use a citrus based cleaner so no fumes inside the house but I've been thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner to drop all the parts in. There's so many little nooks and crannies on these things so cleaning it is about 80% of the work time involved time to rebuild an engine.
  31. 2 points
    Wallfish

    rebuild another one for 2024

    Only Jan and already got 4 engines rebuilt so far this winter. The Amp Champ in the other thread is done, the snow blower gearbox engine in this thread, plus these other 2 in the pic with the blower engine. The guy across the street is going to spin up some of the recoil handles on his wood lathe. So now it's time to start putting these rebuilt engines on some tools and then get started rebuilding those engines or I might keep those tool engines together with the tools. IDK yet
  32. 2 points
    K-TRON

    Early Ohlsson & Rice Drillgine

    As best as I can tell this is a first generation drillgine with the O&R type 100 3/4hp engine (serial 013352). I bought this drill a while back. It was seized up tight. I tried my best to save this one. It sat in my heated ultrasonic for three days vibrating away. I even went to the extent of putting the crankcase in my lathe to cut the cylinder off to save the piston and rod. Sadly the engine was too far gone and it was not meant to be. When my parting tool grabbed the port on the steel liner the crankcase got pulled out of the chuck on my lathe and bye bye went the crankcase. I was able to save the crankshaft from this mess. I am not going to get around to this project anytime soon so I figured I would offer it up for parts should someone be needing them for their drillgine, or if someone wanted to be ambitious and rebuild this one. I did find one repair on the drill which actually looks well done. The drill case has been tig welded up and someone added a little bent steel bracket to better support the handle. I realize this is not in great shape, and I am not looking to get rich on it. I will ship this drill anywhere in the USA. Please send me a private message if interested with your offer. Thanks Chris
  33. 2 points
    Wallfish

    rebuild another one for 2024

    Got the engine done and mostly assembled but still need to do carb top half and recoil. Has a nice hot blue spark just spinning by hand and very good compression. Didn't need to do rings as everything with the cylider and piston was clean and good like this engine had very low hours. Definitely not as fast doing this as I used to be. And spent a bunch of time looking for escaped bearing rollers! LOL I let a few out by mistake when not paying attention. Feeling old as I can't see very well and the hands aren't as steady putting those little bearing rollers back in. I'll wait to grease the gearbox.
  34. 2 points
    Jumping in late here, it’s great to see this car again and the gang already figuring out how to get it back together. That Little Big Mans would be an amazing event to see in person! Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!
  35. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Eclipse Sprayer

    Had an opportunity to obtain this Sprayer in exchange for a contribution to a Charity. It was in a sad state after being exposed to sun light and temperature extremes for many years. The all important nozzle was missing, a large dent in the base and the wooden handles were very dry and cracked with shrinkage. Solid Brass and riveted/soldered joints, the item weighs 2.060 kgs dry. Fortunately, the Museum Curator had another near complete example, so I was able to borrow the nozzle parts for reproduction. Found the thread form was 1/8" BSP parallel, but several thousanths of an inch under size!. The main nozzle part wasn't difficult to produce, but had to make a reamer to form the minute taper of the outlet and produced the atomiser/restricter which was complicated- The Air Pump leather washer was tired and still fairly good, but made a new one from slightly thicker raw leather - Thie plunger is obviously tighter, but needs to relax and bed in and is easing with use. Being a pressure vessel, the control tap and pressure relief valve are all clean a working well- The hardwood plunger handle was so dry, it soaked up 20ml of raw linseed oil on the first feed. Another 5ml satified it's thirst and the cracks slowly closed up over a week. All back together and waiting for an acid, then soap, then soda washout, the latter to neutralise the ph level to 7.- Ignore the extra 'Thumb Nut' on the back of the horizontal handle, it is one I made for the museum example that was missing it. Bit of ageing and it will merge in well. My example may well be a 'Suds Pump' cutting oil feed for my Myford to save on electricity. So, a very nice piece of early 1950s quality re purposed. Regards
  36. 2 points
    Prof

    Stormin

    Hi All, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but Stormin Norman Dainton died from a stroke last week. Sounds like it was sudden I knew him from the Land Rover community but know he was on here fairly often. This was him and Carol on 4th August this year when he visited us in Mid Wales. My wife tried to poison him with spicy foreign muck (Spaghetti Bolognese), he'd never had spaghetti before. A true gentleman with a dry northern wit and will be sorely missed by all that knew him. Chris
  37. 2 points
    nigel

    Bits for my next Project

    Got some new toys for my workshop today Richard
  38. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thanks, hope all's well Ewan. A large void on here now without Norm Reached a point where there's lots of jobs that don't immediately produce finished parts. Lots of 'jigging' mounts that locate exactly where I want them prior to welding up. Managed to prime the chassis frame and black paint the underside. More holes to drill yet, so left it at that stage. Turned to fuel tanks and the mounting thereof. Lots of hammering/annealing of copper to form the bullet shape to fit onto the shell cartridge. Started with a section of tube 1.1/2" (38mm) in diameter and wall thickness of 1/16" (1.6mm) shown in the bottom centre of the pic. The one I'm working on is the main tank, having a screw on filler cap and looking a bit like a flask- I have to make another former of some kind to finish to the shape I need in order to make 2 of them, one main tank and one reserve. The reserve tank will be inverted for design purposes and will become obvious when assembled (I hope). Regards
  39. 2 points
    expeatfarmer

    Stormin

    Farewell Stormin !
  40. 2 points
    nylyon

    Stormin

    This is sad to see, Stormin was a regular here and a supporter of the forum. I have added him to our members at peace group, rest in peace Norman
  41. 2 points
    ranger

    Happy Birthday Nigel

    Many Happy Returns Nigel🎁 Have a great day 🕺🏼💃🎉🎈🍾🎂🍺 and many many more 👍
  42. 2 points
    pmackellow

    Swanton Morley rally 2023

    On the way home from Yorkshire after the Newby Hall event, we stopped in Norfolk to do the Swanton Morley rally for a day. Just the Wheelhorse Commando 8 on show from us, with a couple of bits we bought at Newby Hall. Nice little event with plenty to see...
  43. 2 points
    Thanks for that picture, the O&R branding should date the engine to Nov/Dec 1974 or earlier. There are two possibilities for the Chicken Power engine, with the threaded exhaust manifold, remote mounted fuel/gas tank and a silver painted /starter blower housing with toggle switch (the numbers in brackets are the release date from the O&R list); Type 13B-340 (7-1-74), this had a flexible exhaust pipe. Type 13B-406, this has a tube exhaust pipe. I'll have a closer look at the part number differences another day (the carb parts differ between the above two engine types). Other engines that it can't be are; Type 13A-181, older style engine with round starter mech. Type 13B-328 (8-29-73), has five cup exhaust muffler. Type 13B-341 (1-21-74), has five cup exhaust muffler, but could also be supplied with threaded adaptor. David
  44. 2 points
    David, The sticker on the blower shroud says "Manufactured and warranted by O&R Engines Incorporated 3340 Emory Street Los Angeles California USA" Chris
  45. 2 points
    Rayp

    Hayter 21

    I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.
  46. 2 points
    ranger

    Pto clutch linings

    Hi everyone. I’ve been looking for a source for the pto clutch linings. Not wanting to pay Toro prices, I found a company that specialises in all types of friction plates etc. I’ve just ordered some linings to suit the 6 3/4” size pto’s. The company’s name is Clutchfix ltd. Have a look on their website. To order quote the material type - RF40, dimensions 171 x 108 x 4 mm. Price quoted £10.14 p + vat + postage. If you require the older smaller size, (6”), quote the required dimensions. Suggested adhesive = Araldite! Doug.
  47. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Hayter Osprey

    Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.
  48. 2 points
    Wristpin

    Pto clutch linings

    Loctite do a useful two part adhesive called Multibond. Quick curing. I’ve used it successfully to re- attache Hayer Osprey and 21 clutch linings and other similar jobs.
  49. 2 points
    Anglo Traction

    Bits for my next Project

    Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design. Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. - The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining. The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts- The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer. Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project. A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up- These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side. I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' - The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and save me a lot of work. May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?. Regards.
  50. 2 points
    Stormin

    HVC Rally Cumbria 2023

    It was the Heathersgill Vintage Rally this weekend. Friday was a decent day and warm as we started setting up. Saturday was b****y cold. Sunday the actual rally day was wet first thing but came fine just before noon. Turned out well with plenty of entries and members of the public. Below are a few photo's. Some Americana. Monster truck. Nice DAF. Some stationary engines. Working scale models. Tractor, thresher and baler. Also crawler and plough amd combine harvester. Ex-RAF tug. Miniature steam wagon. Some motorcycles. Some of the cars. This 1920s Wolseley belongs to a good friend of mine. My B-80 and Sears GT16. First and third in class respectively. Nice Clydesdale's.
×
×
  • Create New...