Rayp

What you can sell it for is basically dependant upon its condition, i.e. will the engine run, is the gearbox in working order, is the clutch in working order and do all other moving parts move freely. If the engine is in good working order I would be interested in buying it for the engine as I have been looking for a replacement.  Given the time it has been standing you will need to ensure that the engine is not seised and preferably do an oil change before trying to start it.

Hi,
It is definitely a Wolseley Scythe and looks like a 23 inch model which has a 5HP Briggs and Stratton engine. However, if its a 27 inch model it will have a 7HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I have one , but it has no engine and I am looking for a replacement engine or to modify another engine to fit as the original engine has a longer crankshaft than usual to accommodate the centrifugal clutch..

I think its an Allen Challenger 22" Rotary Cutter.

Hi Sean, you will be able to get the springs you require from www.briggsbits.co.uk

Here's a youtube video of the restoration of a 1971 model, don't know if it's of use to you?
 
50 YEAR OLD RUSTY BRUSH MOWER RESTORATION - YouTube

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Its really up to you.  I have a friend who is an expert mechanic and, if the machine is working, he favours only an oily rag. I do not like to see rusty or oily elements so decide to remove/treat the rust etc. and paint them. However once I remove certain parts I find others that would benefit from the same treatment and invariably end up totally dismantling the machine and repainting it. I find that if I only repaint the 'tinwork' the remainder looks even worse and gives the overall impression of being half a job. I am not endeavouring to reach 'show standard' but just to ensure that I remove or stabilise any corrosion and paint so that I should not have to revisit it.

I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

It was the Heathersgill Vintage Rally this weekend. Friday was a decent day and warm as we started setting up. Saturday was b****y cold. Sunday the actual rally day was wet first thing but came fine just before noon. Turned out well with plenty of entries and members of the public.
 Below are a few photo's.
 
  Some Americana.

 
Monster truck.

 
Nice DAF.

 
Some stationary engines.

 
Working scale models. Tractor, thresher and baler. Also crawler and plough amd combine harvester.

 
Ex-RAF tug.

 
Miniature steam wagon.

 
Some motorcycles.

 
 

 
Some of the cars.

 
This 1920s Wolseley belongs to a good friend of mine.

 


 
My B-80 and Sears GT16. First and third in class respectively.


 

 
Nice Clydesdale's.

 
 

I've been marshaling at a clubman's rally today. The stage I was at is in a farm yard, right on the Scottish border, below Gretna Green.
Photo across the border to Springfield which ajoins Gretna Green

 
In the farm house garden and in one or two places by buildings, is quite a collection of antique farm implements. Photo's below.
 







 
 

I also put some PB blaster in the spark plug hole to try and free up the engine since it won't turn over by hand, I put the PB in everyday for 2 weeks but at the end of the 2nd week of the engine still not turning and the PB evaporating I put some ATF and kerosene in the spark plug hole. That too evaporated and didn't work either by the next morning so I am gonna have to most likely rebuild the engine. I took the engine head bolts out when I put the ATF in the hole just for this reason of having to take the engine apart so I can try and save some time.
 
Before with the ATF in the spark plug hole......

 

After with the ATF not in the spark plug hole......

Went to see a friend. While there I took a few photo's of his 1954 Eitcher. Starts and is road legal. Runs beautifully and sweet.
 




 
 Nice long stroke air cooled diesel. Fan behind the air filter, driven off the centre pulley in front.


 
 While there, Dunc bought this very good condition trailer.


 
 

Great photos Norm
 

Earlier in the year I bought a job lot of Colwood Motor Hoes manufactured by Dashwood Engineering supposed to be non-runners one is of particular interest, powered by a J.A.P. 2A engine dating from 1943 what is strange is it does not have a gearbox just a leather belt from small pulley on engine to larger pulley and then chain drive to the steel wheel after a bit of fettling and fresh petrol it runs took it for a stroll at a brisk walk

After losing my two Border Collies due to old age. (The dogs not me.) 3 and 2 years ago. I said they would be the last. How wrong was I.
 
   Meet Nell.

 

 
 

I was using my Wheel Horse C-81, fitted with the finger bar, a couple of weeks ago. After selecting hi ratio to return to where I'd started, to make a second pass, I had difficulty engaging low ratio. It did engage and I completed the cut.
  Back in the yard and after cleaning things down, I couldn't get the hi - low lever to move into low.
 
  So last weekend removed the finger bar and got the tractor onto the lift table. (Ex hospital bed) Wheels off then the trans' after removing the hubs. Nice surprise when the hubs came of without any trouble.

 

 
 Split the box using some Stanley blades to break the seal. Tapped in four, then four more. Then a couple of screwdrivers to open it up a bit more then two large chisels.

 

 
  Nice and clean inside, but here's what I found.
 

 
  Broken selector fork. Only welded on one side and the weld hadn't taken hold. Only on were you can see the missing piece.
  Went to the Toro dealer in Carlisle and of course they didn't stock them. The lad serving me went and phoned Toro. Three days delivery and £90 for the complete unit. Which of course I don't need the bolt, detent ball and spring.
  A friend of mine is going to see if he can successfully weld it. If not I've had offers of one to be sent over from the U.S.
 
 
    
 

Today was the first Cumbria Classic for two years. Held at Dalemain House, near Penrith Cumbria. UK.
 
   Eldest grandson, his wife and great grandson are over from Cyprus for a couple of weeks. Liam persuaded me to go, as I'd not been for a number of years. So the four off us had an afternoon there.
   There were 419 entries plus club displays totalling a further 206 entries. There was cars, motorcycles, 4x4s, vans, military plus campers and caravans along with trade stands etc.
  To much to photograph, but below is a selection.
 

 

 

 

 
Land Rover based Tomcat. 3.9 V8.
 

 

 
Morris 1000 Traveler. I had a 1966 model that I dropped a 1500 Wolseley engine in.

 

 
Morris 1000 convertible. SWMBOs ream car. And she can keep on dreaming.

 

 

 

 
This would do me if I could afford the fuel. Just the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

 
I haven't seen one of these for years.

 
Austin Champ with Rolls Royce engine as standard. Will go backwards as fast as it will go forwards.

 

 

 
This Standard Vanguard pickup is the only one I have ever seen. Me want!

 
Ford Anglia. Had one with a Cortina GT 1600 stage 2 tuned engine. Shocked quite a few at the traffic light GP.

 

 
Another I once owned. Triumph Vitesse with 1600 straight 6.

 

 
 That's all folks.  

Howard Dragon awakening from a long sleep after having a fuel pump transplant engine back on and bolted down one side panel re-fitted work stopped due to losing fuel pipe which can only be fitted with side panel removed

With the green side up, fold lines and the 4 screw holes were marked out..
 

 
 
A bit like this..
 

 
 
The two short folds were easy as they were straight folds.. My (now dismantled) metal folder couldn't handle the thickness of the steel, so the control panel cover (just realized, I've not actually told you that's what I was making, so I hope you'd guessed right?) was clamped to the lathe pulleys tilt thingy/ex Wheel Horse chassis using a length of solid square bar... Can a bar be square?
 

 
 
A bit of hitting stick action....
 

 
 
Soon had the edges bent around..
 

 
 
Bending the curved parts was not quite so violent for the steel, but it did take longer.... It also involved a "Bending stick"... One of these in fact..
 

 
 
Take this part slowly and don't try to bend too much down at once or the steel will kink..
Slot the "Bending stick" on and push down slowly.. This is the first bend..
 

 
 
Third (I think) bend..
 

 
 
And the almost finished bend..er bend
 

 
 
From this point on wards, I forgot to take any pic's of making the cover.. For some reason I took a pic of the heavy rain through the window instead
 

 
 
The finished control panel cover...  Mounting it to the lathe bench will come later..
 

 
 
Oh, here's part 2 of the vids.
 
 

I wished I hadn't watched - it just made me even more envious of your skill.

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

Now for a errr... Interesting challenge..  How to cut a smallish square from that big slab!
 
The best and quietest way I could think of was a bit "iffy", but it worked..
 

 

 
 
That looks very close!!
 

 
 
But it clears, just..
 

 
 
Lot's of cutting and turning later, all three parts are the right size.
 

 
 
A quick look at my plans... Or should that be rough scribble?
 

 
 
And it was time to fix all three parts together... A single bolt kept it all in check..
 

 
 
So I could mark out and start drilling holes to put some bolts through. Here's the top drilled out..
 

 
 
And the base...
 

 
 
A bit of countersinking was needed..
 

 
 
So the bolt heads would sit flush.
 

 
 
More to follow later including a rather well edited if rather long video... Tune back for more later..

Hello all 
Some of you will  remember my Huttenwerk Tractor which i had on here,  well I have been busy overhauling the Tracks starting with the track plates then new rubbers and bolts , And today the track cover plates were fitted 50 off factory made from 1.6 mm mild steel  then drilled and painted  Matt black .
and to finish 200 coach bolts washers and m8 nuts all to be tightened up.  Then over to the wash and clean corner this now runs so well now i can hardly believe it hope you like i think it great 

I am 19 years old and always working on garden tractors. People my age are always spending time with their girlfriend. The other day my parents came asking if I had met any nice girls and if their was a girl I liked. I replied with only this picture: