mattblack

Greetings from Denmark,
 
I think we need more german stuff here .
 
I have this portable (well - 305 kilos, no wheels) generator as used by the german forces in WW2. They were built from 1940 well into the 1950's. This particular one is from 1944, which can be seen from many details made from steel, which, on the earlier versions were made from aluminium.
The generator set delivers 7,5kW on three phases. The engine is a 600cc Zündapp boxer, which makes it very smooth even at full load. This one is fully functional, but most have defective generators these days.
 
/Steen



Markings

Here's a youtube video of the restoration of a 1971 model, don't know if it's of use to you?
 
50 YEAR OLD RUSTY BRUSH MOWER RESTORATION - YouTube

Called in to see a friend of mine who's into vintage cars on Friday. As usual, after not seeing him for a while, another vehicle had been acquired. 1925 Renault pickup. He took me out for a little ride. LH drive and iffy brakes made traveling the lanes quite interesting.  
 
  This is not my photo but it is the same vehicle.
 

 

Sorry to drag this thread back from the dead but I've just got back from picking one of these up. I was only supposed to be picking up the Allam Minigen that I won on ebay but the guy said 'are you interested in this...?' 
 
Well, you know how it goes...

Happy new year everyone!
 
Here's to a better 2021!  

Happy new year everyone!
 
Here's to a better 2021!  

Happy new year everyone!
 
Here's to a better 2021!  

Next came choosing material for the interior trim, a lot of which could not be removed intact in order to gain access to the framework , I decided to go with a modern type green vinyl similar in colour to the original along with dark green rubber backed carpeting. The original carpeting was a short pile hessian backed type but I could not find it in a suitable green and I did not think dying it to the correct colour would be a feasible proposition. As someone had coloured the leather rear seats and arm rests with a hideous blue in the past  I also ordered a leather renovation kit in the same shade of green as the vinyl and if the original side panels which I was going to re-use didn't look right I could do them as well.

 

The rear arm rests along with the rexine attachments had to be fitted first before the boot floor as these formed the inside of the boot.
The boot floor was duly cut to size, covered in the new vinyl and fitted along with the repainted steel covers.

  



The old rexine side panels don't look too bad against the new vinyl and the arm rests turned out quite good as well alongside the original rear panels, this is after the seat had also been done.



Before the side panel could be fitted a new door seal was required, not just any door seal but a 3/8" dia piece of wing piping, you can see it running down the door pillar here



You can't buy 3/8" wing piping and certainly not in green so as always we'll just make it.
Sewing machine was already there as I had bought it to do the Carlton interior, 



and a new 3/8" foot was purchased



The original piping had an orange rubber pipe running through it and I managed to get some 10 mm bunsen burner tubing which was the perfect size for the job but I just couldn't get the vinyl to feed through the machine. I tried various methods of lubricating it until someone advised using tissue paper and it worked a treat but a bit of a pain to remove from the thread afterwards. Once a new piece of carpet was sewn on the bottom of the side panels they were then fitted along with the back seat.

Nae happy !! Doing a bit more last night and just about to load the last photo and internet crashes and lost the lot.
With all the tools and raw materials gathered it was time to start dismantling, the chassis was levelled on two wooden blocks and rear bodywork supported by two adjustable scaffold feet and some aluminium tube under the boot top rail, wheels were removed, rear wings removed and all the interior trim from the back seat rearwards.
It was evident that the rear body section was sinking causing the sides of the rear wings to bow out and the front of the doors to rise above the front bulkhead level.



On the offside you can see the wooden chassis mount is tilted along with a broken bracket and a makeshift repair with some sheet steel.



The nearside gives a better view of how it is constructed with the chassis attachment plate half lap jointed to the cross member, a fairly solid support block attached to a length of angle iron bolted to the steel inner wheel arch. The boot hinge is bolted up through the cross member with one bolt coming through a steel bracket coming round and up along the lower wheel arch frame which is again attached to the back of the support block.



80 year old wood screws are not the easiest of things to remove especially in such confined spaces but using small cutting discs in the dremel the slots were tidied up and with a selection of different sized flat screwdriver bits and various ratchets and sockets to fit all but two came out and  I was lucky enough to have space to drill them out with a right angled drill and some short stumpy drill bits that I had bought for this job some time earlier.
The bolts were also dispatched using the dremel and cutting discs but it was all too easy to shatter them and quite a number were used.
I had to cut the crossmember to ease removal of all the bits but was still able to measure them and get dimensions for the new pieces, the chassis mounts and support blocks along with the crossmember were relatively easy to make as they were all straight sided, the lower wheel arch extension needed to be curved but after some trial and error I worked out the radius and used the router to form this piece.



By fixing the workpiece and pivot block to a 8 x 4 x 3/4" sheet of plywood the radius was set and the inner radius cut then adjusting the threaded rod by the required thickness the outer radius was machined -  a lot of playing about but it worked out OK.



Behind the boot hinge bracket there was some evidence of a solid piece connecting the boot side rail, another body rail and the lower wheelarch extension which had been screwed from the outside before the aluminium had been formed around it, I managed to make a couple of pieces that would fit to all three wooden rails but just could not get the correct profile to fit the body.
After two attempts and even trying some modelling clay I finally managed to get the correct profile by using one of my trial pieces, covering it in a good layer of body filler, covering it with a polythene bag and gently pressing it in to position.Once set I was able to use a profile gauge every 1/4" along the piece to copy to the new one.



With all the new pieces made and trial fitted, broken bracket welded back together, pilot holes for the screws were marked and drilled and holes for the bolts drilled, final assembly took place with all pieces glued and screwed together.



 







The rear body was now solid and firmly attached to the chassis for the first time in over sixty years.
The fun really begins now.

Thanks for your reply so far.  Did some work today on the BMB special removed extension rims to make it easier to move, renewed HT lead and Carb, fuel tap etc and also measured for new drive belt  so good progress had a new Apprentice giving me a hand today   Thanks 

You should have kept quiet, patina'd it and fitted it to an old tool. You'd have had the O&R geeks in a frenzy looking for another one...  

You should have kept quiet, patina'd it and fitted it to an old tool. You'd have had the O&R geeks in a frenzy looking for another one...  

You should have kept quiet, patina'd it and fitted it to an old tool. You'd have had the O&R geeks in a frenzy looking for another one...  

You should have kept quiet, patina'd it and fitted it to an old tool. You'd have had the O&R geeks in a frenzy looking for another one...  

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but I've found when making gaskets with not much 'meat' between a hole and the edge it's best to use a piece of gasket paper a fair bit bigger than the gasket needs to be and punch the holes out before cutting round the edge of the gasket. I've also found that placing the gasket on a piece of chipboard (I use an offcut from a kitchen cabinet) gives a much cleaner cut with the punch than using a piece of soft wood.

Bit of an update on this.
 
My boss is talking about clearing out the garage where this lives and scrapping it. I'm trying to persuade him that it is worth hanging onto until this virus thing is finished and someone could collect it. I have said that I would deal with getting rid of it. Any money raised would go to the amenity fund of the care home where I work, this pays for activities/trips for the residents. I would like to get an idea of value, maybe that would persuade him it was worth keeping for a bit.
 
Thanks.

Engine pulley runs anti-clockwise so you'll be going backwards?

Nice job. We get a few scrap walkers at work, I've just saved the wheels off one for a 2-wheel trolley I'm going to make for my current little project.

Looks great! You can't beat a bit of 'recycling'... in 30+ years of patching cars up I've never bought any steel.

I won this on ebay a few weeks ago. To be honest I took pity on it and decided that I would bid the starting price (£22) if no one else wanted it...
 


 
Since I took the photos I've pressure washed it so it looks a bit better, albeit with a little less paint... the engine is a Villiers C12 so I'm guessing it dates from the 70's. I'm not sure if there is a connection between the Leicester 'Warsop' company that manufactured petrol drills and breakers and Warsop pumps?

After a wipe over with an oily rag.

 
Running and generating, I disconnected the governor spring and set the speed/output with the throttle stop screw.
 
 

Gave this a clean today, how does so much oil end up on the outside of a 2 - stroke machine 
I'm erring towards getting it running and generating (with luck) and doing an 'oily rag' resto rather than repainting it.
 

This is the new project I mentioned in another thread. It's a Type 40, 110V DC, 400W. It appears to be complete but obviously hasn't run for a while. The first job will be be a session with the degreaser and pressure washer. Can anyone give an approximate year to it?
 

worth a try?
 
www.higgott.co.uk/mowerbreakers.html

Nice! I'm currently restoring a Villiers MK12 off a series 2 myself...