Well, got one done anyway. Took much longer to do than anticipated.
I cut some of that blue spring steel I ordered for making the carb springs. The first stuff I ordered was too thick for the carb springs and it finally found a purpose. Sliced a long thin piece off then heated and bent the edge of it into a circle to fit in the dogleg hole. Drilled out the old stuff. Put the new spring in place then dropped solder in. The bubble of solder was big so I also hammered it so it would stay very tight. Filed off the remainder and cut the spring to length. Seems to work well. UGH, only 7 more to go!
I like that gun bluing stuff so I'll probably clean them all up and coat them with that too.
hens teeth are something very hard to find if you have never seen them you properly never will .
some of use have seen them and may never see them again
some of us have them and do not know it .
some of us don't want to see them .
some of us have know idea what they are .
I'm sorry I miss this I wish I had more time to do it
hens teeth are something very hard to find if you have never seen them you properly never will .
some of use have seen them and may never see them again
some of us have them and do not know it .
some of us don't want to see them .
some of us have know idea what they are .
I'm sorry I miss this I wish I had more time to do it
DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVET which is holding the center bearing! If it hasn't been already.
The spools can be removed without destroying that rivet. If the rivet has already been drilled, that can be repaired as well but the housing will not look original anymore and will appear like it's repaired with a nut and bolt.
This repair thread is for the original style recoils which are an integrated part of the blower housing. The newer type with the separate square recoil part on 13B engines will be covered separately
Removing the spool-
First remove the knob from the rope. Best to push and pick the rope knot out of the top and cut only that knot off. If there is still spring tension, it's easiest if a quick knot is tied about 6-8 down to keep the tension off the rope and not allow the rope to just suck in by the recoiling of the spring. After removing the knob release any tension of the spring slowly until it's neutral of any tension.
There are a couple different styles of housings whereas early recoils do not utilize a retaining clip (#17) to hold the spool in. The later production recoils do have a retaining clip. The clip is a bit difficult to see and could appear just like it's the inside of the spool. That's why quite a few get the rivet drilled out but the spool will not come out if it has that retaining clip in place.
See the pictures below. The retaining clip is a ring that's silver, not black like the spool is. It clips into tiny slots right near the main body of the housing. Look for the opening in the clip and that too is very small and possibly hidden from view as well. The clip is #17 in the IPL drawing.
To release the clip use a small flat screwdriver to press it inwards towards the center to release it from the little slots all the way around the housing. As it's released move it towards the other side of the spool, engine side.
Once the clip is loose or if there isn't one, pinch the spool with small pliers as close to the center as possible, not on the outer ring, and pull while rotating the spool back and forth. Do not pull hard enough to bend the spool. Sometimes repositioning the pliers to pinch it 180 deg from the first spot or go back and forth which seems to work better. Sometimes they come right off and sometimes they need to be worked off of that center bearing but they do pull off.
Spring--
For best results and smooth operation after any repairs, the spring should be completely removed from the housing and cleaned by soaking and or wiping the old grease/oil off. Also clean the inside of the housing and the center bearing.
Older recoils used a different type of clip to retain the spring. (#11) These devises are difficult to remove without bending or breaking them but it must be removed anyway to get the spring removed. Since newer models didn't use them, they still work fine without them. I have NOS #11 pieces yet haven't been successful installing one so I just skip it. Not an issue so far.
Repairing a broken spring. The broken end of the spring can be re-shaped if it has broken off. Heat about 1 inch of the end of the spring until it's cherry red. I use a small butane torch but even a cigarette lighter will probably work. Let it air cool and do not quench it. That heat will remove the brittle "spring" characteristics of the steel and allow it to bend without breaking it. Below is a pic of what that bend of the spring looks like and it's fairly easy using small needle nose pliers to shape it. The shape is important so the tail remains inside the indent of the center bearing. If it protrudes out at all, the spool can not be seated back in properly.
Recoiling the spring and getting it back into the housing isn't fun or always easy. It can be recoiled directly back into the housing starting from the outside in or coil the spring first and then insert it back into the housing. It's nice to have a spring holder and especially if doing a bunch of them. A holder / retainer can be made from 2" pipe which makes installation much easier. The coiled spring is loaded into it then It's simply inserted into the housing. The holder is removed while holding the spring down in the housing. After removal the spring tension must be released slowly until it's neutral.
Not the best pic but the tail of the spring must fit all the way into the indent of the bearing. Otherwise the spool will not go down. The spring must slip into the slot on the spool
Rope
It is retained in the spool with a small wire. Remove that old wire completely or any remnants of it and find a short piece of wire about the same size to use for retaining the rope to the spool. I have used a copper strand from electrical wire because it's soft enough to manipulate to get the ends into those tiny holes on the side of the spool. Basically untwist just a single strand of the copper wire off of the larger twisted wire but it needs to be thick enough. To small and thin and it will easily break. Copper or steel or anything you can get in there should work. Even a small paper clip but I haven't tried one. Below is a pic of what the NOS repair wire looks like before it's inserted into the spool. The bend for the tips makes it easier to get into the spool holes
The wire twist must bend over tight to fit in this indent of the spool otherwise it will catch on the spring
Once you get that small loop of wire inserted through the holes in the side of the spool pull the tails through so there's just a small loop down inside the spool, feed and poke the end of the rope through that loop in the wire.
Cut the end of the rope so it has a nice clean edge. Use a cigarette lighter or a match to heat the edge of the rope in order to seal it and keep it from fraying. It will melt and do just a little bit at a time. Just enough to melt the edges of the fibers. Once you melt the edge, quickly twist it in your fingers to keep that hardened edge the same or smaller size diameter than the the rope. Too much melted and it will be too big to fit through that wire loop. That size is important for trying to get the edge of the rope through that little loop of the wire inside the spool. I use a small pick tool to push it and pick it from the opposite side to pull it through. Once you get the rope through the wire loop pull it through enough so you can now heat the edge of the rope again. This time melt the edge of the rope so it does create a hardened edge that's bigger than the diameter of the rope. This hardened bulge on the end of the rope will prevent it from ever pulling through the retaining wire once that wire is cinched down.
Now pull the retaining wire tails so the loop is just snug to the rope. Then pull the rope back through so that little bulge you created is almost snug to the retaining wire loop.
Using pliers, pinch, pull and twist both tails of that retaining wire to lock the rope to the spool. Be careful not to twist too tight and break that wire or you need to start all over, but it does need to be tight enough to hold the rope snug. It's a very fine line between breaking the wire and having it tight enough. Best to go 1/2 twist at a time once it's close to being tight.
After it's twisted tight and the rope is locked to the spool, cut the twisted wire tail off. Leave about 1/8 inch long of twisted wire. Then bend over that twisted tail so it fits down below the indent of the spool. Bend it to the right and the opposite way it is shown bent over in your pic but I'm not sure it makes a difference. That's how the originals are done so I just follow that.
Wind the rope onto the spool. You will need to cut the knot off that retains the handle and heat the end just like before to stop the fray of fibers but keep it small enough to fit back through the handle hole. ( There should be a spring inside that type of handle) Just a hole in the newer ball type
Feed the end of the rope, after it's spooled up, through one of the openings in the spool with about 3 inches or so protruding out. This will allow the spool to be installed without interfering with the edge of the housing,
Now is a good time to oil the spring. Drops all around so it gets in between the coils.
Insert the spool over the bearing and back into the housing. That little slot on the bottom of the spool must catch the spring and that's why it's important to have that spring bent and properly positioned.
ADD INSTALLED SPRING PIC HERE
There can not be any other part of the spring protruding out from the bearing which would prevent the spool from sliding all the way down and the slot catching the spring.
Once the spool is down in place and caught on the spring, use that tail of the rope that's protruding up to spin the spool counter clockwise. Usually it's about 3-4 revolutions to create enough spring tension on it to recoil. Hold the tension on the spool with your thumb when the rope tail is at the top and at the location it goes through the housing and up to the handle stop. Now feed the tail of the rope back through the spool edge and out to the front of the housing. Grab it and feed the rope up through the hole in the handle stop and tie a quick knot to keep it from recoiling. If there is a # 17 retainer clip you can now use a small screwdriver to clip it back into those housing slots.
This is a good time to test the action of the recoil and verify everything is working properly. Pull and release the rope quite a few times to get that spring to settle in it's proper place and disperse the oil all around it too. It should pull and retract with ease and have enough tension that it recoils all the way in. Once you are happy with the performance, tie a loose quick release knot about 8-10 inches down on the rope. This will prevent it from spooling back in while you work on the handle. Send the rope end through the little spacer first, then through the handle and then through the handle spring if there is one (Older style). One end of the spring is smaller than the other so that end is the top where the knot will hold and retain the handle.
That's all there is to it! Definitely not the easiest thing for the first timer doing it!!!
I added to the last response and did a recoil repair tutorial although there will be more pics and information added. It's now a pinned topic on the main list of threads for the Ohlsson and Rice section
David @factory might be able to help you since he's much closer. Good recoil assemblies are something I'm short on for the engines I have. Many come ruined or missing on used engines. They do pop up on ebay every once in a while but they usually sell quick if it's a reasonable price.
But I do have some NOS and used springs.
The springs can be changed. Please don't drill out the rivet to remove the spool if you haven't already. The spool will come off by pulling and twisting it but later models do have a retaining clip deep inside there which is difficult to see. We can help you on how to repair the recoil you have and it's also possible to rework the existing spring depending upon it's condition. If the rivet was drilled, that can also be repaired. If you can post some pics of your recoil that might help to determine if it's salvageable.
We texted today about it and I mentioned a couple others might be interested in them too so he said he could make a template so they all come out the same. Once perfected it will be easier and faster to make them.
Pulled this one off the shelf to clean up and rebuild for the next project. It's in fairly nice condition so no painting need.
That's one of the nice things about these little engines. It's cold outside so these can be done inside and right on my office desk where it's warm.
I use a citrus based cleaner so no fumes inside the house but I've been thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner to drop all the parts in. There's so many little nooks and crannies on these things so cleaning it is about 80% of the work time involved time to rebuild an engine.
Got the engine done and mostly assembled but still need to do carb top half and recoil. Has a nice hot blue spark just spinning by hand and very good compression. Didn't need to do rings as everything with the cylider and piston was clean and good like this engine had very low hours.
Definitely not as fast doing this as I used to be. And spent a bunch of time looking for escaped bearing rollers! LOL I let a few out by mistake when not paying attention.
Feeling old as I can't see very well and the hands aren't as steady putting those little bearing rollers back in.
I'll wait to grease the gearbox.
As best as I can tell this is a first generation drillgine with the O&R type 100 3/4hp engine (serial 013352). I bought this drill a while back. It was seized up tight. I tried my best to save this one. It sat in my heated ultrasonic for three days vibrating away. I even went to the extent of putting the crankcase in my lathe to cut the cylinder off to save the piston and rod. Sadly the engine was too far gone and it was not meant to be. When my parting tool grabbed the port on the steel liner the crankcase got pulled out of the chuck on my lathe and bye bye went the crankcase. I was able to save the crankshaft from this mess. I am not going to get around to this project anytime soon so I figured I would offer it up for parts should someone be needing them for their drillgine, or if someone wanted to be ambitious and rebuild this one. I did find one repair on the drill which actually looks well done. The drill case has been tig welded up and someone added a little bent steel bracket to better support the handle. I realize this is not in great shape, and I am not looking to get rich on it. I will ship this drill anywhere in the USA. Please send me a private message if interested with your offer.
Jumping in late here, it’s great to see this car again and the gang already figuring out how to get it back together. That Little Big Mans would be an amazing event to see in person!
That's nice been checking on here every now and then this is a great subject
I will add some pic's I have they may help. The drive pulley works as forward and
reverse the shifter in the drivers seat when you pull it back it gives slack on the belt
and the flat side hits the rubber on the disc to go in reverse
I believe this gearbox will work for the car. I will also look for a shaft that fits on the end of it for the pulley.
Before selling, let's make sure we can get or make all of the parts needed first. I would like to keep the engine for the snowblower -- BUT I will sell it for something like that car, because they are so rare.
Proud new owner of the Irvington Mini Winch. My plan was to get it all ready before posting but couldn’t wait. The previous owner was super awesome and reached out to me before parting with it. I of course was very interested and hope to make this a centerpiece in the collection. Another BIG thank you to the owner for keeping this here in the O&R family!
I’m itching to clean it up and display it but I have been thwarted by too many business trips and landscaping lately. I hope things will slow down a little soon so I can get back to this. I need to add an air cleaner and swap out the tank clamp.
I have been here for a while just to keep an eye on you so you don't mislead any one else
I remember a few years back you sent me this . I still cant make it run
.
Another TT300 comes back to life. Wallfish, without you this would have been just another one of those non-running display models. I cannot thank you enough...
JUST O&R got a reaction from Twinsport in Tiny Tiger model 400 rebuild
JUST O&R got a reaction from Wallfish in rebuild another one for 2024
JUST O&R got a reaction from Fishnuts2 in Tiny Tiger fix up