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BIGJOHNG2

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Posts posted by BIGJOHNG2
 
 

  1. Do any of you gents in the UK have any idea what a Lister Junior would sell for? We don't see many of the Listers here in the US. and I have my eye on one for sale . There is an issue with the connecting rod bearing , but was told they are easy to find over there. Thanks for your help in advance.

    John


  2. I see that there are  three spark plugs listed for O&R engines... Champion UY-6, CJ-8, and CJ-14. Is there one that works better than others? It seems like the UY-6 is harder to find. Any thoughts?

    John


  3. So I have been working on my Comet pump.  I was able to connect the vane ( flag ) to wire shaft which Wallfish  provided. I then worked the metal with a screwdriver and secured the metal  as best I could. To make the connection more secure I used a dab of epoxy. That seemed to do the trick.It is now tight.I reassembled the governor to the carb ,but  it sure seems like the fit  is very loose and might  come flying out with the motor running. Is there a way to somehow fasten the shaft to the carb? This governor design seems a bit flaky to say the least .

    Any pointers?

    Thanks,

    John


  4. Roger on the idiots! I did have experience in the snow while stationed with the AF in the UP of Michigan. They did clear the snow quickly ,but with 220" or more they needed to. However, the salt on the roads tore up your car... I guess they do that in your area too.

     

    John


  5. Can someone please explain the various fuel tank multiple gas connections on the Tiny Tiger fuel tank? What are the proper connections for the various lines? Also is there a mfg manual for the tool?

    and

    MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!!!

     

    John Graham


  6. Interesting Dough. Never thought about the oil mixture... that by increasing the oil would lean the fuel burn. Would the opposite then be true? Like using 32:1 make the engine run richer? How then does the mixture screw on the carb enter into the picture?

    Thanks,

    John


  7. I would like to get your consensus  on the best oil to gas ratio to use on O & R engines. On the operating instructions I read , thoroughly mix 3/4 pint of outboard oil  or any good # 30 SAE oil  and 1 gallon of regular gasoline. The decal on the motor says mix 1/3 pint SAE 30 Heavy duty oil (MS type or equal) with 1 gal 70-80 octane gasoline.This gives a ratio of about 24 : 1. There is a bit of a difference between 3/4 pint and1/3 pint to 1 gallon gasoline  What about gas ...I would guess ethyl alcohol free fuel would be best on the seals etc. However, on a modern 2 stroke weed eater that I have had for years I do use regular gas, BUT always run the machine dry after each use. Has anyone used a mixture of 32:1 and ran their machines for some time without any trouble? Your opinions ...

    Thanks,

    John


  8. The points are there, the key is there, the crank threads are good, and the crank nut is there.

     

    Yeh, I am hooked! Didn't know they existed until a month or so ago when I visited an online auction, although I remember O&R plane engines when I was a kid.I do like to display  engines doing work so the various tools are perfect! And did I say they are sure a lot lighter from my hit and miss engines and old tractors!! Old iron seems so much heavier than it used to be!!

     

    Who holds the record for the most tools?

     

    John

     

     


  9. This Kenco followed me home from epay today:)!!! On outward appearance it looks pretty standard Kenco 61 until the front cover is opened... NO flywheel ! and no carb! Both pieces were wrapped separately in the packing box... and they do not belong with this machine! Let the buyer beware! The motor is a TYPE 115   s/n 063124. I am searching for parts!!!

    John

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  10. Great pictures and information. Pictures are indeed worth a 1000 words! Dave, what kind of camera are you using? Pictures are very sharp.Lighting is excellent .Wallfish...I would be interested in the carb casting but not the governor flag as I can make that. Should I pm you to work out the details?

    In regards to trimming down an impeller for the pump... I tried grinding an impeller

    with a belt sander , but it did not work well. A bit of research  suggested using a hot nichrome wire. Another person froze the rubber with LN2 and had good results. I don't have access to LN2 any more ,but I may try CO2 and acetone. Sure would be easier just to find a p/n that would work!

     

    Got a new toy from epay today , But will start a new topic on that one.

     

    Thanks again for all the help. You guys are really generous with your time:)!!!

     

    John

     

     

     


  11. David,

    I just checked my engine type and it is a TYPE 109 s/n 016395.My mistake! The attached picture also shows a part of the carb not listed in the parts breakdown that I can find. Is this lever/stop available? I did replace the check valve with the mylar type. In regards to the picture of the governor vane would you "guestimate" the length of the shaft? It looks to be about 1/8" in diameter.

    Again thanks1466332055_ORCARB.jpg.1335b12dc231acb94b0832dbc448fcdc.jpg1466332055_ORCARB.jpg.1335b12dc231acb94b0832dbc448fcdc.jpg1466332055_ORCARB.jpg.1335b12dc231acb94b0832dbc448fcdc.jpg you for the help

    John


  12. I am looking for a flexible  vane impeller . The size is 2 inch diameter x 1/2 inch wide x 5/16 inch D hole. I have searched high and wide, but no luck. The 1/2 inch wide is the problem. The narrowest I can find is 7/8 inch:(. I am considering trimming the 7/8 inch to size. Any suggestions?

    Back to the governor vane.... is the shaft just wire that has been ground flat on the end? Would you take a guess at the diameter?

    Thanks for the help!!!

    John

     


  13. I think that a good place to start is at the beginning of the Ohlsson And Rice blog. There is an excellent O&R Carb Repair Tutorial that I found very usueful. Also if you have access to You Tube , Mustie 1 has videos on Jan, 20, 2018 "will it run? antique gas powered drill"..It might be of help. It is a two part video.Search you tube as written inside of the quotation marks

    John


  14. I did find the vane and a small broken spring from the starter dog assembly. The vane was bent.and the shaft from the vane to the carb was missing. The reason I was asking about carb  inter-changeability is that  the slot on the end of the throttle shaft... one piece has broken away. I'm not sure sure the connection from the vane assembly to the carbs throttle would remain in place and I may need to swap out cabs. I could take pictures but I am afraid they would show little. I will show a picture of the vane. The s/n of the engine is 016395 Type 169. I'll try for some pics tomorrow.

     

    John


  15. Well, I got my my Comet transfer pump running, but without the pump as I am awaiting delivery of  a new Impeller. I think that my O&R may be an older unit( '61or "62) and may be missing some parts on the carb and linkage to the vane governor . My question is can I put a newer carb on my motor and will it lash up to the induction case assembly ok on my motor. I now have no control of the speed (rpm) without input from the governor vane. I really had to scramble to shut it down when it started to over speed! I would gladly accept any advice!

    Joh Graham


  16. On 10/24/2021 at 12:49 PM, Wallfish said:

    Most likely you will need to disassemble the carb and clean the little ball that's under the spring. Follow the tutorial and and you'll be fine.

    With a clean piece of fuel line connected to it, blow into it and air should only pass when you push the primer button. You should not be able to suck air out anytime.

    Thanks for the tips. I will have to get after doing a better job of cleaning! As a note with further messing with starting yesterday, I was able to get it to run without any choke. But now another problem, the motor races way too fast. Upon checking and watching a you tube video , I seem to be missing the linkage from the governor vane to the carb. Can you tell me what it looks like? I will need to make one. Also the idle screw doe not connect to or touch anything ?I do have an older motor as it has a two piece crank shaft and the mixture screw is on the side of the carb . Maybe I need to put a load on it when running too as I have removed the pump as the impeller is missing five out of six vanes! Have ordered one off of Amazon today but fear that it is too small.

    Again thanks for the info...:)

    John Graham

     

    On 10/24/2021 at 12:49 PM, Wallfish said:

    Most likely you will need to disassemble the carb and clean the little ball that's under the spring. Follow the tutorial and and you'll be fine.

    With a clean piece of fuel line connected to it, blow into it and air should only pass when you push the primer button. You should not be able to suck air out anytime.

     

 
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