Anglo Traction

Great project/subject Engine Matt, good to see more of your restoration skills on here . It will certainly stand out amongst your many Black, Green & Silver Briggs Engines . I like the 'Lock Bolt' design in the Piston for the Wristpin (Gudgeon Pin UK), does away with the iffy Spring Rings. Now tell me, are you going to mount this one on a Block of White Oak on a Plinth, or make a Truck with some Cast Iron Wheels?. You describe it's weight in terms of pretty heavy, but I'm trying to gauge the size of it. What is the Output Shaft diameter?. Look forward to see/hearing this one running on a Vid if you can.

My mistake Wristpin, wrong use of words. So yes , disregard my reference to Copper Grease. The stuff I have is an old Paste from Aviation industry (expired life date) that is a mix of Graphite and Copper, Graphite being the greater proportion as there is only a tint of copper. It is almost in crumb form so has little grease as a binder. If it is spread onto paper, it looks like HB pencil marks with a hint of copper/bronze and no grease soak in. Copper/Graphite mixes are used for Plain Bearings in areas of heat and pressure like Roller Beds in/out of Ovens etc, so I deemed this substance useful to fill the worn void in between the old and additional Thrust Washer- There is also no Flammable grease in it. Kohler Manual does not mention any internal lubrication of the 2 types of Starter Motor (note the Induction Starter Motor version has both a Spacer Washer and a Thrust Washer fitted, where the Permanent Magnet version like this one has one Thrust washer as standard). I don't use any of the mentioned Automotive brands from places like Halfords for brakes or Thread lube like Kopr Kote, too many issues with compatibility. I have however put a small amount of Teflon Dry Lube on the Bendix end bearing faces of the Armature shaft and End Plate, as well as the Bendix Helix. This does not attract/absorb Dirt or moisture very easily and works well for me. The Bearings and Bendix Teeth on this Motor are in very good condition. The other Armature end (rear) has a Dry Oilite Bearing where there is a risk of spark igniton or contamination of the Brushes if grease was applied. The Motor has now been reassembled after prepping, painting and decals fitted where it received a coat of Fuel proof Lacquer and now ready for fitting- So just one thing to bear in mind and that is ...these motors are not Continuous Rated, so if your engine won't start/run after a max of 10 seconds cranking, leave it to cool for 1 minute before trying again or you'll burn the Starter out. ............ I may well be parting with my spare one now Neil, I'll bear you in mind. Regards

I was surprised how easy and quick it was Chris. I scraped/chipped much of the old Black paint off, then used Paint stripper, found very little rust pitting. I had to get it smooth in order to tap out the Hammer damage to the Starter Blister and other dents/distortion. I just used p240 and P400 grade paper by hand............ Was going to Lacquer it, but had too many blemishes............. It's painted Red. Rest assured Norm there are visible Flaws in my paintwork.....sorry to interrupt your thread . I'm sure it will look good when your done. Would Pam allow it Chris ?........you'd probably get roped in to clean and polish all the Brassware etc as well.

I understand your difficulties Iain, as I'm a 'Southpaw' (Leftie) as well, but try to use many things as a R/Handed person does. I've also decided to go over to Aspen on the infrequently used and small engine machines like Chainsaws & Brushcutters. The Atco Sidewheel will run on it as well...... Still too expensive to run Garden Tractors on it. Would be good if they treated it as a special case and at least removed the Duty Charge on it to reduce the cost and increase it's use.

Good to see your progress Norm. I was getting worried that you'll spend more than 2 years to finish this like me on my C-120 . Black look's good. Would nice to also see the Motor Black and a bit of Silver perhaps?............or polished steel !- Keep up the good work and piccies for Chris .

Good to see you covering this Magnum build on here Mark. I've only done 'K's, so interested in any differences. I see it has the 'D' style Piston and the same damage I had which necessitated a re bore.............. Hope you don't have that problem. Those Stens rebuild kits are pretty good quality. That is a fair amount of acceptable wear on the Crank Journal on the Mag16 . I had to have my 'K301' Crank re-ground due to being only 0.001" out of round ! (max allowed was 0.0005"). Presume you have a Fixed Jet Carb on those ?. Glad to see your also pulling the Balance Gears . Good luck and I'll follow your progress as much as poss. Regards

I'll bow to Mark's knowledge on the wiring. What confused me is the Engine numbers are for a 12hp 1998 engine and maybe should 284707-1136-e1 ?. Also the B-115 was last built in 1984 I believe (12-11BP02) and had an 11hp 253707 motor. So we assume it was re-engined at some stage. Parts diagram for that Tractor model shows the Red and Black (with connector) coming from the Dual Alternator which possibly supplies lights and Battery charging separately?. Afraid my Briggs Workshop Manual only goes up to about 1982. I'll see if I can find a proper Wiring Diagram for a B-115 and go from there.

Starter on my original 12hp Kohler in my '72' Raider 12 had begun to squeal more and more last year, so having built a spare Starter from 2 really iffy ones, I pulled the squealy one to inspect it and fitted the new spare to test it etc. The spare works beautifully........So last night I got around to tearing into this one to cure the problem and give it a clean up- No sign of broken Magnets this time for a change, just a few loose flakes, Carbon dust and light rust areas from trapped condensate- So generally all in pretty good nick really, note the date stamp on this American Bosch Motor (Dec 20th 1971). The cause of the squeal I suspect was the Thrust washer that had been worn by the hard stop ring which has a gap and sharp edges . This washer takes a lot of pressure when the Motor is energised and combined with the dry Carbon dust and bare metal faces, starts the noises etc. Close up of the Stop Ring, Shaft bearing face and the 0.0205" (0.52mm) thick thrust washer- The 'Cure' I hope will be the addition of another thrust washer of same thickness. I found just the right size/type in my box of bits and the Washer came from my fully rebuilt engine now in my C-120, when I scrapped the Balance Gears in it, I kept the spacers, washers and Snap Rings. All I had to do was increase the bore of it by 0.003" to just fit over the Shaft bearing diameter face with no slack- So the new washer will fit on first followed by the old one and the same original way around. With the bearing plate in place un-lubricated and with hard pressure on it, the shaft rotates with no friction resistance at all, but will apply a small amount of High pressure Copper grease between them. All the Brushes etc cleaned up nice and very little wear- Commutator segments had the usual Carbon Glaze, so cleaned off with the shaft mounted in the Lathe chuck at slow speed, then a final air blast to get the dust out - Body internals all clean now and found the magnets still have makers ink stamp on them- I shall strip the old paint and decals off and give it a repaint and new decals before it goes back on the Engine. So if you haven't been inside one of these before, don't junk it and look for another when it misbehaves........... Give it a Refurb birthday and a new lease of life. Hope this helps.

Impressive example of your work Nigel. Like the creative panel work. The style reminds me of the Old WW2 David Brown Aircraft towing Tractors.

Some Fab Fabbing work from a fine 'Fabber' Ian . Great work and progress .

Been a while since I last saw your progress Norm. Good to see you've fixed the Tranny and had the opportunity to Primer . That Hoodstand looked very sound with no pitting or rot...... they are often well perforated!

Long time since I visited the forum (last year!!). Hope all are ok etc. I'm adapting to a few shortfalls in physical health (thanks Ian/Norm for your concern). Still looking forward to the chance of spending time down in the Workshop when weather warms up. Have been able to do a few little fiddly bits recently though. Back in Post number #34 on page 2 of this 'Topic', I had a few jobs to finish on the Carb. A new Strangler (choke) Rod has been made up from 1/8" stainless steel and a 'Lift Knob' formed on the top. I also added a fibre washer and spring to prevent vibration wear and seal from dirt etc The 2 Filter Body retaining screws also made.- Made up a new Throttle Cable, turning up some new nipples now that I've fixed the required length and route, the Villiers Throttle Lever also fully refurbed, but had to replace the Chromed Top Screw. Original Cable Ties (2) shown just in top left of next pic will be re used-. Other little tinkering bits I'm managing to do are Fuel Tap(s). The Fuel Tap on this mower is the Lever turn type (bottom in next pic). I thought I'd add a bronze Mesh screen filter (149 microns) like the one I made and fitted to the (1954) Ewarts Tap (right in pic) I'm refurbishing , but may make a 'Drop In' one that sits inside the Tank Filler neck. The other (1964 chrome) Ewarts Tap on the left of pic is finished and from the Seagull Outboard and needed a new Brass Plunger made before fitting a new Cork on it-. Here's hoping we have a good Spring 'n' Summer . Lots to do, Places to go, People to see.

Hi Ian, hope the move went ok. Sorry for no updates, health issues getting in the way. probably won't get back to working on it this year. Also going to have to start having a clear out etc. I'll awake this thread when I get back to it. Regards.

Hi Dave, I see your Down under, so welcome !. Afraid I know little about these, but to try and help, here's a few links that may assist in sorting it and locating any parts you may need - http://www.oldcroak.com/fw-series-flywheel-magneto-rx/ http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/wicomagneto/Petrolmag.htm http://www.magnetoparts.com/wico_fw.htm Not sure if the weak Magnets will be an issue for you, but would be good to know how you get on. Regards

Very good work . look's like the frame is adapted from an old Huffy Bike?.

Not a common Stationary Engine you have there, made from 1962, 120cc 3.2hp Petrol/Paraffin ohv. I can't help with parts or info, but may have some luck if you also check out /search for the 420 version. Being an industrial type and a different design to motorbike engines, it may also still be worth checking out a 'Classic Bike' company. Would be good to know how you get on with it.

Great little Chainsaw John . Like the manual Chain Lube. Chain look's like 1/4" pitch?. It's got the 'Wallfish Quality Refurb' look about it !.

As the books can be considered educational, here are the 4 that I use and value. These are still available and can be searched by title. 2 are specific to Make of machine, but principles are universal- Other 2 are my 'go to' references and cover all forms of Metalwork and processes etc. I'm sure others have recommendations as well.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Doug, same vintage as me. Enjoy a few Jars of your favourite tipple and have a great day

Take your time deciding Tom, It depends on what the largest thing you'll likely want to put on it to machine?. Myfords are great for light - medium work. Been a favourite for Model Engineers for many years, parts are plentiful in comparison. Old ones are Imperial measurement / later ones Metric, so depends on your primary preference, but you should be able to obtain change wheels to produce work on both in either unit of measurement. So if, as you say, your plan is to find one to start on , then upgrade, you'll not go wrong with a common Myford I went through the learning process as you will have to, but I had to overhaul mine first. I found great advice and learning references by obtaining a few books.......Happy to PM you a few titles if you wish.

Nice. Glad someone gets to own machines that only need an 'Oily Rag Wipe Over' to be able to run it and use !.

Hi and welcome. I also suggest you rule out the easy checks first. You say Woodruffs are ok, which ones have you checked?. You only need one of the Keys sheared on the Axles/Hubs to prevent motion. Check to see if the Brake Drum is rotating when running to rule out a few more Keys in the Tranny?. Are you getting a positive action on the Gear Lever when you select 1st- 3rd, or reverse?. Not sure if your familiar with these, but undo the Locknut and the Dog Screw (when in Neutral) that retains the Gear Lever (see pic), remove the lever to check it is ok and engages with the selector forks inside. If all these are ok, the issue is more likely to be internal.

Feasible. Is that One shot grease similar to the type used in CV Joints?. Only problem I see after fitting a grease nipple 'Inboard' into the D/S tube is a need for a 'One Way' relief valve for the greasing procedure and would be best sited between the outer Needle Bearing(s) and the Shaft Seal(s), otherwise it would blow the seal(s). Nipples would also need to be in a position that would not interfere with any form of Rear Hitch Unit, say for a Snow Plough etc.

Great looking machine that 62 Bolens Iain, nice find . Good that you got the original Kohler as well. K161 I believe. would be good to see it back and running in the Tractor if you ever get the chance.

Good fix Norm ...... I trust you have noted on your reassembly list to remove the rubber seals from those bearings before closing up the Tranny case?.......Or are you doing a 'Greased for Life' job on the outer Needle Bearings?.