nigel

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. 
The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished-

 
Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings.
Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image-
 

 
Hopefully won't be too long before next update.
Regards
 

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-
 

 
 

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually.
The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall-
 

 
Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings.
The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left-
 

 
The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank.
Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar.
Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into-
 
 
 
Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress-
 

 
Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid-
 
 
 
So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades-
 

 
Regards
 

Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)-
 
 
 
 
I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted-
 
.
 
The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table-
 

 
When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies.
All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance-
 

 
A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me.
 

 
Regards
 
 
 
 

Not a lot of progress, what with the cold spell of the last 3 weeks. Confined myself in the warmer environment of the Lounge. Too cold in the workshop.
Have been designing and drawing up the Fuel fittings I require. Nothing 'off the shelf' will suit, so making my own and using a 1950s ATCO Pet Cock as a guide.
Got some Lathe time in over last few days and started turning up a Taper Reamer blank, then a first Pet Cock plug at the same settings. Got to produce several of these so I have a stock.
The taper angle is 7 degrees inclusive . The little levers that screw into the plug are threaded 5/32" Whitworth, so making them the same -
 

 
Had to keep to Imperial, not easy to mix metric on these, plus I have been asked to reproduce an old Pet Cock style for a restoration.
Ready to part off the finished plug from the rod and make the next one now.
The reamer blank is next to finish machining the cutting edges, then harden, temper and hone.
Quite pleased really, as the new plug actually fits perfectly in the old tap body, so I got the angle right.
 
Regards.

Thank you Gents for your positive comments. Lot of work sorting the Reduction Unit design set up.
I needed to provide stanchions for the tank(s) support and location, bearing support for the fan drive, Pto clutch lever mount point and lubricator positions, all in one area.
I decided on brass plates for extending up to fan shaft line. Started with an old 12 inch (305mm) square plate shown during marking out-
 

 
After lot of cutting and careful drilling time, I was able to fit it and began the stiffening with bracing layout and fittng the welded  and shaped stanchions.
Lubrication connections made to fit into the large brass bearings, then made/fitted the mountings for the Lubricators.
These Lubricators were found in an old barn in France about 15 years ago and are shown in the very first image of this Topic. Had to anneal the thick walled copper pipes, shaped to fit using a home made tube bender also shown in the image below-
 
   
 
Had to use incompatible metals in this unit (electrolytic/galvanic reaction risk), so will have to be careful to seal the mating surfaces of the Aluminium and Brass parts, even though they will be polished and lacquered.
Hoping to get this unit''s mounting plate/support welded up soon.
Regards and wishing all a Happy New Year  

I wish I had 10% of your talent Richard 👍

Greetings from Denmark,
 
I think we need more german stuff here .
 
I have this portable (well - 305 kilos, no wheels) generator as used by the german forces in WW2. They were built from 1940 well into the 1950's. This particular one is from 1944, which can be seen from many details made from steel, which, on the earlier versions were made from aluminium.
The generator set delivers 7,5kW on three phases. The engine is a 600cc Zündapp boxer, which makes it very smooth even at full load. This one is fully functional, but most have defective generators these days.
 
/Steen



Markings

Hi,
Just some pics.
485 kg beast with 18 inch rims - 10hp Sachs 2-stroke water cooled diesel 500 ccm - 6 speed forward -  2 speed reverse - 2 pto speeds - differential lock - handlebar adjustment up - as well as 45° sideways possible in 3 positions each.
Has front pto with overrunning clutch for front mower.
Rear pto shaft = 28mm diameter with 8mm key groove 
Steering brake on each handlebar side - when both brakes need to be applied simultaneously as when going downhill with trailer, I use the parking brake lever.
Units like this should NOT be run without competent trailer brakes in nowadays public traffic - the braking power of the Hummel is less than adequate at Vmax of 12,7 km/h



More pics.
 
Trailer hitch attachment rotates internally - so rotational movement of the trailer tongue is thus accomplished.
Lube plan riveted to top of hood

Got some new toys for my workshop today Richard

I would try and find a good replacement I think it would work out a lot cheaper

Well done sir!. Look's like you have enough there to produce some good projects. The Myford254 is a good machine. Regards. Richard

Got some new toys for my workshop today Richard

The latest copy of Stationary Engine magazine arrived today, complete with a small article on some of our Ohlsson Rice machines...
 
 

I spoke to Carol yesterday and she said no flowers, Norm would have hated the waste of money, but any donations to Cancer Research, a family member has terminal cancer..

She's was calling Norm an old bugger because she'd been in his shed and found out how many tractors he had. She didn't know. Wonder what else she'll find.

Thanks Gents,  Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion.
Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly-
 
  
 
It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims-
 
 
 
One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side.
Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim.
Regards.
 

Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling.
Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !.
As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- 
 

 
I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues.
Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! -
 

 
Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later-
 

 
I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling.
This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit.
The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable.
Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads -
 

 
The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell.
The plate was then set up to drill the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss-
 

 
Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth.
The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all -
 

The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear.
It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! -
 
 
  
 
Regards
 
 
 
 
 

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.
 









 








               

Thank you Gents!. Still learning as I go and making reasonable progress. Finished the parts for the front caster assembled here with a temporary bolt, so just the wheel to make-
 

 
I had to make the 1/2" BSF Pin Bolt to ensure a good fit and with fine adjustment. I have some 15/16" AF high carbon Hex steel, so set to and turned one up on the lathe-
 

 
Also made a nut.
I bit the bullet and started 'tacking' the frame joints and managed to continue with reasonble weld joints to form a strong frame. I wll need to get the upper surface joints properly done. 
The mahogany planks have been cut and temporarily fitted for trimming to bring the surface level with the frame's surface. Embelishments include a brass nut cover to keep it weather tight-
 

 
.........and we all like to 'trial assemble', so this gives a better image of the project-
 

 
Regards
 

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia-
 

 
Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing.
Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first-
 

 
I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table.
As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions-

 
I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate-
 

 
Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled.
Regards
 
 
 
 

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.
Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.
After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -
 
 
 
Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.
I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -
 

 
Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 
 

 
Regards
   

All the Best, Nigel.  Hope your buses are more frequent than ours.

I can get my free bus pass now 😂

Many Happy Returns Nigel🎁 Have a great day 🕺🏼💃🎉🎈🍾🎂🍺 and many many more 👍

Just had a great weekend in North Yorkshire at Tractorfest.
 
We took our 1968 Wheelhorse Commando 8 and trailed Wheelhorse aerator
 
Mark Smith organised the 2023 Wheelhorse Roundup and got 25 tractors this year.