Jump to content
Darmic1

Ohlsson and Rice mini 2 stroke engine

Recommended Posts

post-106-0-40923100-1413063618_thumb.jpgHi all

I wonder if any of you knowledgeable lot can help me with this? I'm guessing from a quick internet search it could be from a "Tiny Tiger Generator" from the 1940's.

My dad gave it to me today and said it came with his 1929 Austin Seven Cambridge Special! In one of the 6 tea crates of car bits it was found.

The engine would appear to have some sort of reduction gearbox fitted, possibly to gear down the speed for the generator. Its missing a spark plug and the generator bit but that seems all that's missing. It would appear to be stuck/seized too, as I cant pull the start rope nor turn by hand with the starter removed. Any help regarding info, manual and spares suppliers would be very helpful.

post-106-0-14345800-1413063573_thumb.jpgpost-106-0-45803600-1413063596_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As Koen has said wallfish is your man for these , I have such an engine on a Turbair sprayer unit (the fan like unit in

the bottom right of this photo) and a mate of mine has one on a Champ generating set...

post-99-0-81319000-1413127344_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's very difficult to say exactly what the application was. Many were sold exactly like you have it and without a specific application but people could adapt them to their own. Plus there were MANY applications which are very rare and unknown to me. It was definitely not a generator.

 I can tell you that engine is from the early 60s,( black pull handle, silver primer button, blower housing screws thread into the plate vs from the back into the housing, ect. ect. )

Since it's locked up, You'll need to disassemble it to find where it's stuck. I would start by removing the gear case, it doesn't take much resistance in there to freeze it up so that way you will know if it's the engine or the gears which is locked.

Look inside the plug hole and hopefully it isn't all rusted. If not, pour some oil in there, let it sit for an hour and then try to rotate the flywheel back and forth. Unfortunately if the engine is locked, you'll need to completely take it apart. BE CAREFUL not to loose any of the little roller bearings as they fall out during the process. There are quite a bit of them so I usually work my engines on a large white cloth. Parts are still available through me and another member at http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com/

You may want to post over there as well, member Webhead has even more experience than I do and is the guy for most parts. We can walk you through the process of getting that thing running again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info and pointing in Wallfish's direction! I managed to strip the engine down today, only to find its the piston which is corroded in the barrel....... Looking at it, I would say water has gotten into the plug hole! Im going to leave it soaking in the parts washer solution for a few days then try to free it off. Not sure how the barrel comes away from the crank housing though?

Hi Wallfish, I will get the numbers off the engine tomorrow, if you have a parts diagram that would be great! Also how does the barrel come apart from the casing?

Thanks :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cylinder barrel  unscrews from the case but if the piston is frozen in there, it will break the connecting rod. Wait until it soaks for a bit so you can free it up before untwisting the cylinder. A strap wrench works well for gripping the cylinder. Be careful as you can, to not break the cooling fins. It's a good idea to turn the exhaust manifold at the same time. The manifold pinches between the cylinder and the case and is capable of spinning 360 deg. Turning it at the same time will help get it loose. 

It's a shame the plug was left out. The cylinder wall may be damaged but we can hook you up with a new one if needed.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only use for coca cola in our house is in the missus alcoholic beverages!!!

Have been unsucessful in removing piston from barrel! Have managed to get barrel away from the crank case. Looks like a new barrel, piston and conrod will be required.......... :-(

I believe the engine number to be 062 382? Its the only number I can find....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm assuming barrel, piston and rod are all together, with rod disconnected from crank? If the rod itself is not damaged, try leaving the assembly to soak in diesel for a few days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now your making me jealous, a VERY unique and rare tool. I have something very similar but it's a little more modern looking. Your Amp Champ generator would be very rare over here as well since ours put out 110v ac and 12v dc, plus the outlets are on the sides. Yours are on the back and output 220v I believe.  

 

Let me know if you need parts for the recoil starter but most of the time, it's the spring end broke off. DON'T remove that rivet #12 holding the little cup bearing #10. There is no need to separate that cup from the housing to get the spool off. Just be very careful not to bend the spool #3. Pull from the center and don't pry on the outer edges. If the spring is broken, just heat the end with torch and you can bend it to the shape in the drawing #7 without it breaking. (They made a mistake in these drawings and show the spring coiled in the wrong direction) 

post-9-0-35068900-1414868732_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The previous owner had asked a friend of his to sort it out after the starter cord broke, I got the cowling back in bits, so a swap

with the one on the parts engine seems to be the easier option  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure about your side of the pond but over here those generators were produced in 3 different colors. red, yellow and military green. So if you swap the cover, tank and paint the base, you are still very close to keeping it factory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...