Bits for my next Project

[Alan 1,271]

5 hours ago, Anglo Traction said:

Thanks guys,

                      Enjoyed making the shroud and working it out as I went along. Done with that now and the engine sports a N.O.S Lodge C3 Plug-

 

 

Be a while before nexrt update,  have to plan for the chassis layout etc.

 

 

Brilliant as usual Richard. 

[meadowfield 1,900]

On 4/11/2023 at 5:06 PM, Anglo Traction said:

Thanks guys,

                      Enjoyed making the shroud and working it out as I went along. Done with that now and the engine sports a N.O.S Lodge C3 Plug-

 

 

Be a while before nexrt update,  have to plan for the chassis layout etc.

 

 

amazing work RIchard!

[Anglo Traction 997]

On 5/4/2023 at 3:15 PM, meadowfield said:

amazing work RIchard!

 

Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design.

Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. -

 

 

The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining.

The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts-

 

 

The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer.

 

Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project.

A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up-

 

 

These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side.

I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' -

 

 

The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and save me a lot of work.

May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?.

Regards.

 

 

 

 

[Alan 1,271]

Looking good as always Richard.  

[Anglo Traction 997]

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip.

 

The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation-

 

 

Regards

 

[Anglo Traction 997]

Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, it goes well with the polished brass parts-

 

 

Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design.

Regards

 

[Anglo Traction 997]

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.

Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.

After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -

 

 

 

Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.

I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -

 

 

Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 

 

 

Regards

   

[Anglo Traction 997]

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia-

 

 

Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing.

Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first-

 

 

I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table.

As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions-

 

I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate-

 

 

Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled.

Regards

 

 

 

 

[nigel 1,874]

Your a clever sod Richard

[Alan 1,271]

On 8/5/2023 at 7:24 PM, nigel said:

Your a clever sod Richard

I'll ditto that Nigel.

[Stormin 4,458]

22 hours ago, Alan said:

I'll ditto that Nigel.

I'll third it. 

[meadowfield 1,900]

As usual - rather splendid work Richard!

[Anglo Traction 997]

Thank you Gents!. Still learning as I go and making reasonable progress. Finished the parts for the front caster assembled here with a temporary bolt, so just the wheel to make-

 

 

I had to make the 1/2" BSF Pin Bolt to ensure a good fit and with fine adjustment. I have some 15/16" AF high carbon Hex steel, so set to and turned one up on the lathe-

 

 

Also made a nut.

I bit the bullet and started 'tacking' the frame joints and managed to continue with reasonble weld joints to form a strong frame. I wll need to get the upper surface joints properly done. 

The mahogany planks have been cut and temporarily fitted for trimming to bring the surface level with the frame's surface. Embelishments include a brass nut cover to keep it weather tight-

 

 

.........and we all like to 'trial assemble', so this gives a better image of the project-

 

 

Regards

 

[Anglo Traction 997]

Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling.

Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !.

As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- 

 

 

I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues.

Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! -

 

 

Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later-

 

 

I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling.

This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit.

The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable.

Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads -

 

 

The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell.

The plate was then set up to drill the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss-

 

 

Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth.

The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all -

 

The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear.

It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! -

 

 

  

 

Regards

 

 

 

 

 

[Alan 1,271]

Amazing work as always Richard.  

[Stormin 4,458]

Can hardly wait to see the finished article. Superb! 

[Anglo Traction 997]

Thanks Gents,  Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion.

Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly-

 

  

 

It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims-

 

 

 

One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side.

Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim.

Regards.

 

[Cub Cadet 611]

Lovely work. Great to see! 

[Anglo Traction 997]

Thanks, hope all's well Ewan. A large void on here now without Norm

Reached a point where there's lots of jobs that don't immediately produce finished parts. Lots of 'jigging' mounts that locate exactly where I want them prior to welding up.

Managed to prime the chassis frame and black paint the underside. More holes to drill yet, so left it at that stage.

Turned to fuel tanks and the mounting thereof. Lots of hammering/annealing of copper to form the bullet shape to fit onto the shell cartridge.

Started with a section of tube 1.1/2" (38mm) in diameter and wall thickness of 1/16" (1.6mm)  shown in the bottom centre of the pic.

The one I'm working on is the main tank, having a screw on filler cap and looking a bit like a flask-

 

 

I have to make another former of some kind to finish to the shape I need in order to make 2 of them, one main tank and one reserve.

The reserve tank will be inverted for design purposes and will become obvious when assembled (I hope).

Regards

[nigel 1,874]

Got some new toys for my workshop today Richard

[Anglo Traction 997]

Well done sir!. Look's like you have enough there to produce some good projects. The Myford254 is a good machine. Regards. Richard

[Anglo Traction 997]

I've been designing/making several parts over the last month. decided to go for rope pull start on the engine, simpler job and I could use an old pulley that was used originally on the 'Yellow Mower Challenge ATCO' back in around 1959. The pulley is a 4" Picador with angled slots cut in and filed for the rope knotted end. I had to make the brass retaining bolt once I'd identified the flywheel nut thread form (9/16" x 20tpi BSC). It is fairly quick to remove to gain access to the ignition points/mag-

 

 

The mahogany bumper blocks were added so as to allow a short overhang of the pulley/flywheel and puts the engine/mount centre line over the rear axle. 

The finished engine mount has some embelishments added in the form of brass straps-

 

 

Working on the fuel tanks stand/mount presently and have finished bashing the copper to shape for the top of the main fuel tank-

 

 

I have more work to do on it before soldering up and make the reserve tank.

Reduction gear mounts next and the drive etc for the cooling fan.

Regards

 

 

 

[Alan 1,271]

As usual Richard  Fabulous work. 

[nigel 1,874]

I wish I had 10% of your talent Richard 👍

[Cub Cadet 611]

Fantastic job!