Jump to content
Scottwilson

1966 Bolens 850

Recommended Posts

20 minutes ago, Triumph66 said:

Yes yours is definitely a '66 model.

 

I think there are Parts 2 & 3  on that above video.

I’ve found the the videos unfortunately his turns over mine don’t not even a click . Should I have a coil on

mine ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible that your 850 does not have any cut-out switches. If it does it will be a single switch located under the battery tray and you will need to remove the tray (two fixings on each side) to get to it.

 

The solenoid is not easy to get to and is located behind the side panel. One of your pictures shows one of the fixings holding the solenoid, the second is located about 2" to the right. Fixing highlighted in this picture

 

image_jpg_57cd394825274168633243700de55910.jpg.2ac3dc3d15c7af52aa4d478fbb1331c3.jpg

 

If you need to replace the solenoid you will need to carefully select one as most are too deep to fit. You often see Bolens with this panel bent out in order to fit a replacement solenoid.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, slf-uk said:

It is possible that your 850 does not have any cut-out switches. If it does it will be a single switch located under the battery tray and you will need to remove the tray (two fixings on each side) to get to it.

 

The solenoid is not easy to get to and is located behind the side panel. One of your pictures shows one of the fixings holding the solenoid, the second is located about 2" to the right. Fixing highlighted in this picture

 

image_jpg_57cd394825274168633243700de55910.jpg.2ac3dc3d15c7af52aa4d478fbb1331c3.jpg

 

If you need to replace the solenoid you will need to carefully select one as most are too deep to fit. You often see Bolens with this panel bent out in order to fit a replacement solenoid.

 

 

Tomorrow I’ll remove the panel below the battery and look for the switch . Am I right in thinking that if I get to the solenoid I’ll be able to bridge over that to test it to see if it’s an ignition switch problem ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Triumph66 said:

Scott, I got some responses regarding the cut out on your hood. It looks original as you rightly thought.

 

 

https://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/69596-bolens-850-cut-out-hood-query/

That’s good news as it means it’s on less repair for me to do 😂 thanks for asking for me . Now to get it to turn over 🤞

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yours a 1966 model 191-01 but it has the cut-out like a 1967 model 191-02.  Either they started using the cut out on the later 191-01 hoods or yours hood is from a later model, hard to say which. if you google the image you will see the pepper box should exit the bonnet centered on the hole. later modifications to many of these old machines manifold pipe has resulted in a off center placement

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, HeadExam said:

Yours a 1966 model 191-01 but it has the cut-out like a 1967 model 191-02.  Either they started using the cut out on the later 191-01 hoods or yours hood is from a later model, hard to say which. if you google the image you will see the pepper box should exit the bonnet centered on the hole. later modifications to many of these old machines manifold pipe has resulted in a off center placement

I think it will always stay a little bit of a mystery as I don’t know the full history of the tractor . I’m going to leave it as it is rather than plate it up and try to run with what I have . It looks like the bonnet and exhaust are least of my troubles it looks like the hi-lo and pto mechanisms are seized up and that may be why I can’t start it up ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Scottwilson said:

I think it will always stay a little bit of a mystery as I don’t know the full history of the tractor . I’m going to leave it as it is rather than plate it up and try to run with what I have . It looks like the bonnet and exhaust are least of my troubles it looks like the hi-lo and pto mechanisms are seized up and that may be why I can’t start it up ? 

 

Unhook the belts and then try to start

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spoke to Iain and he suggested that you start looking at the dyna start to see if it runs and work back from there. The ignition switch can also be a cause of it not starting as can a dud solenoid. I can't see why you can't connect your jump leads on the solenoid to see if that works. The seized pto and high / low lever should not impede firing up the engine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, Triumph66 said:

I spoke to Iain and he suggested that you start looking at the dyna start to see if it runs and work back from there. The ignition switch can also be a cause of it not starting as can a dud solenoid. I can't see why you can't connect your jump leads on the solenoid to see if that works. The seized pto and high / low lever should not impede firing up the engine. 

I’ll have another look shortly lots of stuck bolts so I’ve soaked them all to try to stop any shearing off . I’ve got the exploded  diagram of the dyna start so I may strip it and clean it if I get no joy once I power from the solenoid. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well today I’ve managed to get a little bit of time tinkering and I’ve managed to connect the jump leads to the dyna start and it spins over but I have no spark . I’ve looked at the points and they are clean and open and close as they should but no spark ⚡️ 🤔 any clues ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, Triumph66 said:

I thought there was a v shape cut on the flywheel? Might want to post that photo on GTT? Have you jumped the solenoid? 

I jumped it straight off the starter still not managed to unearth the solenoid yet . I’ve just posted it there 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Scottwilson said:

I jumped it straight off the starter still not managed to unearth the solenoid yet . I’ve just posted it there 👍

 

Scott, the solenoid is difficult to get to. The picture I posted shows the fixing screws and if you slip your hand behind the side panel where the thick wire from the starter/generator disappears you will feel the solenoid.

 

The best way I have found to get it out is to disconnect the battery, remove the wires from the starter/generator, undo the two solenoid fixing screws and pull out the solenoid and wiring together from above, using the battery positive cable. Most models also have an additional fixing that holds the wiring away from the belts. If yours has one, this will have to come out too.

 

Let us know if you get stuck.

Iain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, slf-uk said:

 

Scott, the solenoid is difficult to get to. The picture I posted shows the fixing screws and if you slip your hand behind the side panel where the thick wire from the starter/generator disappears you will feel the solenoid.

 

The best way I have found to get it out is to disconnect the battery, remove the wires from the starter/generator, undo the two solenoid fixing screws and pull out the solenoid and wiring together from above, using the battery positive cable. Most models also have an additional fixing that holds the wiring away from the belts. If yours has one, this will have to come out too.

 

Let us know if you get stuck.

Iain

Hi Iain I’ve just managed to get to the solenoid 😓 it was a bit of a begger to get to as it was the other side under the battery tray which had some very stuck bolts . 

305F9030-6FC1-478D-A87C-8B7E85BE022F.jpeg

803299D4-264B-4E6E-9CEE-A0706FF74DEF.jpeg

A1D742FF-1411-4993-AE49-A0EE024C208B.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, slf-uk said:

That is interesting as it is not where I expected it to be, although it is a far better location because you have the space to fit a modern equivalent if it is broken.

 

 

I’m still trying to remove it from the bodywork as all the screws aare rounded and seized. The wiring itself is very brittle I was thinking about replacing it all one at a time . I’ve also found one wire that’s not connected at all . The voltage regulator does not seem to be in great condition is this an easy to replace item ? I’ve also found some rust on the tube chassis that I think is going to need repair 😟

FEB8282E-46EC-4B09-A812-0568962B2D91.jpeg

3E912DCC-8286-467D-8148-2A5B14FB1A8E.jpeg

97A689FB-263D-4850-BE9E-98FD35ABED2B.jpeg

DC1474E5-6915-4B68-9ED5-9960854920DA.jpeg

B0190258-370F-43C0-A559-2ADAF70E4AF8.jpeg

71C7B282-B00D-4233-9AD4-34C7ECE1D8A3.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is one big job. Get that wiring sorted. Go to bolenspartsandsupplies.com he’s a site sponsor over at gttalk. You probably need a new key switch, new solenoid, new wiring, new ammeter. Get that rust cleaned off and see if any bad damage. See how your pulley is doing, don’t look to pretty. You could go onto ebay and get a whole shopping list off used parts, just search “bolens” under all categories and then cross reference the part numbers you see to the part manual for your 850. Also try tubeframes.com and bolenspartsandsupplies.com and see all the parts you could possibly use

And does your pro go into gear? You probably need a new coil as you said it wasn’t sparking, your clutch is probably frozen too. So it’ll need dismantled 

And I don’t think you’ll get any spark without a working voltage regulator, but send bolens 1000 a pm on gttalk, he’s the owner of bolens parts and supplies 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HI Scott,

It looks like the ignition switch may have been replaced too although don't take that as gospel because I have not come an early 850 like yours. Regulators are not that expensive and you can even buy a compelete new wiring loom, although you will need to make sure it will suit your tractor. The wiring diagram (and parts manual)  I sent you is for a 192-02 so it would be worth asking the folk on GTT if anyone has a wiring diagram and parts manual for a 192-01.

 

I found the beest parts suppliers are Rick and Brian although if they don't have the parts give Justin a look (www.tubeframes.com).

 

I am not sure about your timescales on this project but I have two 850's of similar condition, that at some point I am planning to make one good one from. I am sure I will have lots of extra parts.

 

Iain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scott, once you get that engine up and running it will motivate you to clean off all that rust and crud on the chassis. These Bolens are incredibly well made and you will be pleased with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Sammoore13bolens1053 said:

This is one big job. Get that wiring sorted. Go to bolenspartsandsupplies.com he’s a site sponsor over at gttalk. You probably need a new key switch, new solenoid, new wiring, new ammeter. Get that rust cleaned off and see if any bad damage. See how your pulley is doing, don’t look to pretty. You could go onto ebay and get a whole shopping list off used parts, just search “bolens” under all categories and then cross reference the part numbers you see to the part manual for your 850. Also try tubeframes.com and bolenspartsandsupplies.com and see all the parts you could possibly use

And does your pro go into gear? You probably need a new coil as you said it wasn’t sparking, your clutch is probably frozen too. So it’ll need dismantled 

And I don’t think you’ll get any spark without a working voltage regulator, but send bolens 1000 a pm on gttalk, he’s the owner of bolens parts and supplies 

I’m going to get it all stripped and cleaned then test the parts as this has the magnito system rather than the normal coil .

 

2 hours ago, slf-uk said:

HI Scott,

It looks like the ignition switch may have been replaced too although don't take that as gospel because I have not come an early 850 like yours. Regulators are not that expensive and you can even buy a compelete new wiring loom, although you will need to make sure it will suit your tractor. The wiring diagram (and parts manual)  I sent you is for a 192-02 so it would be worth asking the folk on GTT if anyone has a wiring diagram and parts manual for a 192-01.

 

I found the beest parts suppliers are Rick and Brian although if they don't have the parts give Justin a look (www.tubeframes.com).

 

I am not sure about your timescales on this project but I have two 850's of similar condition, that at some point I am planning to make one good one from. I am sure I will have lots of extra parts.

 

Iain

I’ll jump onto there site and have a good look I’ve found the correct wiring diagram it’s the early one with the magnito . I’m aiming to get it ready for Easter next year .

1 hour ago, Triumph66 said:

Scott, once you get that engine up and running it will motivate you to clean off all that rust and crud on the chassis. These Bolens are incredibly well made and you will be pleased with it.

I’m 99.9% sure the engine will run so im not too worried about that . I’m not going to go through everything getting it all cleaned up and working then I’ll strip it back down for full paint .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wiring loom finally detached !! Every bolt,screw and nut was either rounded or extremely rusty . I’m going to try to make a new loom as this one looks very crusty and feels brittle . Also got some rust holes on the centre console 😟 .

D44ED8B6-CCF6-444A-B8F5-A68F4A5160F8.jpeg

92F09F58-2908-448D-A7DE-A419A5006438.jpeg

BA832A85-E470-42C0-970C-0D3212C36666.jpeg

4CFF342E-751D-4D33-94B9-2F3209195269.jpeg

5B4D6C51-1881-4538-ADEB-86737D4E527D.jpeg

D3E69EDC-B169-43A2-A6EA-84CFBF597945.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Scottwilson said:

Got the voltage regulator and solenoid off I’m trying to work out how to test them and hoping they are fine . Any tips on testing ? 

508F807C-94F5-4703-9004-B37BD64430E1.jpeg

E66B496A-F63B-4190-B558-E498A8AC79FA.jpeg

 

Id say buy new ones, they have been exposed for years, and if working will not work for long, solenoid should make a click noise when the key it turned to The one position

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...