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Anglo Traction

A Mystery Roaring Twenties Refurb.......hopefully!

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2nd Shaft was/is a headache. Lots of problems and have had to do the best I can. The boss that the 52t Sprocket is riveted to is fixed to the shaft by a pin.

This was sheared in 2 places, so I had to remove the old pieces and make a new one.

Strangely, it was nearer to 6mm than 1/4, so I reamed it to 6mm and made a new pin from silver steel and partly hardened.

Bearings were a mess inside as with the other ones-

 

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This one has a cracked inner race, maybe even from when it was first fitted? -

 

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Took an age to clean and flush these out until clean, but when  packed with LM grease, they ran quite smoothly considering and they will have to do.

Rpm for this shaft is about 750 max. Had quite a wobble in the sprocket, so I tried to straighten it out and got it down to about 1mm  deflection.

Clamped it to a 1 inch thick steel plate and used gentle leverage-

 

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 Finished shaft with just a bit of painting to do-

 

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Final job on the Villiers Clutch was to replace the worn felt seal shown in 6th image bottom left in post #16. Thought I'd have trouble, but got the old one out.

Found an identical sized vintage seal in my spares bits, but was too thick, so I had to slice it. Shown fitted with the old one and cut off remnant-

 

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The seal protects the outer cup ball race, which after cleaning and greasing, runs real smoothly :) .

So clutch is ready for assembly now, when I've sorted the cable and routing.

 

The Exhaust silencer/muffler was next. Surprisingly, I managed to undo the remnants of the nut that holds the end plates on and dismantled it-

 

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Wanted to to check it over before putting it near any media blasting. Shame one end cap is captive, as I wanted to remove it.

This end cap was nickel plated originally and suffered more from the elements than the other.

After an initial clean up, loads of little perforations appeared in the neck between the flange and cannister, but the welded areas are strong.

 

I reckoned I could repair this with a new plate wrapped around the neck and weld around the strong points.

I've cut and fitted the plate clamped tight with a Jubilee Clip initially for tacking it down. further joint cleaning to do first.

Got to practice with thin plate, as I'm not skilled in general arc/stick welding practices -

 

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The cannister part is still sound with no holes or thin areas. It's a rolled sheet and riveted with a seam plate inside.

In addition to sealing the inside, I'm also going to run a seam along the end joint to avoid it blowing.... can be seen to the right of this image-

 

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After this, it will be time for frame cleaning and repairs, before I can fit the engine and see if it will start/run..................tbc 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Stormin said:

Come on Richard hurry up. I'm itching to see what it is. Mower at a guess.

You can't hurry a perfectionist Norm.  Just be patient and wait.  Or to put it another way,  GET a MOVE ON :poke:Richard.

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Hi Richard,

I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler.  I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams.

Ray

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On 3/13/2019 at 9:41 AM, Rayp said:

Hi Richard,

I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler.  I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams.

Ray

 

I have used deox-c and it was brilliant, I then found out it is actually just citric acid and its much cheaper to just buy a bag of this online. 

 

 

Great work Richard!

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On 3/13/2019 at 9:41 AM, Rayp said:

Hi Richard,

I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler.  I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams. Ray

 

Hi Ray, Afraid I never heard of it :hide:. A bit ignorant of the various products floating around these days. I'm rather suspicious of the old 'Snake Oil' type claims for them, but in reality they turn out to be basic compounds or chemicals that you can buy and apply for very little. That stuff is not cheap.

I tend to be content with processes that may take longer, but cost very little. Electrolysis for example.

On 3/19/2019 at 12:07 PM, Cub Cadet said:

 

I have used deox-c and it was brilliant, I then found out it is actually just citric acid and its much cheaper to just buy a bag of this online.

 

A good example Ewan. just a few other different ingredients so they can claim it's their own unique concoction, as you say a bag of citric is obtainable from places like Wilko's .

I admit to using a rust converter (trustan and kurust) if I can't get it all off.

 

The Exhaust is done. Surprised myself after patiently tacking and building weld bridges and joining up using 1.6mm rods. Very few spots made it through the thin wall of the neck-

 

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Had to break the old spring washer from the captive end cover and replace it with a wide thick copper washer cut and opened to fit onto the rod, then silver soldered the joint.

Didn't need to add a seam of weld on the riveted joint, it's good and gas tight. finished it with several coats of BBQ paint.

Rubbed it down in between coats and then finally burning it clean with a gas torch to dull red heat-

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It will do and should last long time !.

Not much progress, as still making odd bits not worth mentioning and prepping for paint. The all important original seat actually cleaned up well.

I was unsure how it would turn out with the level of corrosion. It still had traces of paint and or primer which could be grey primer and white top coat.
Plan is for a light grey top coat until it can be confirmed what colour it was. Very few of these machines still around-

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Hopefully will make significant assembly progress over the next week.

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

    

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