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Stormin

Bitter and twisted.

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About 3yrs ago I acquired a rather sorry '75 Raider 10. A none runner but complete. I got it going but it only ran briefly before stopping and refused to restart. After the usual spark and fuel test, and having no cover on the flywheel I tried to turn it over by hand. Turned one way but locked up the other. Off with the head and the piston was at the top of the bore. Pressed down on the piston and down it went with no resistance. Yes, you've guessed it, broken rod.

  On stripping the engine I found the sump had quite a lot of sludge in it. When the oil was last change is anyone's guess. So most likely that was why the rod broke.

  Anyway, the engine has been sitting completely stripped on a shelf and the rest of the tractor stripped and in a heap in a corner. This morning I thought it was about time I did something about the engine. The crankshaft has been checked and is fine. So is the bore. So I did the valves and started cleaning up other parts. Finally the turn of the head. 

  The gasket was still attached and had to be pried off with a scraper. No wonder really, as it was stuck to the head with SILICONE. :scared-eek: So out with a piece of plate glass and sheet of 180 grit. The first photo shows the start of fattening the head. The second after about 2hrs. 

 

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  I did bit more after the last photo' and it looks a bit better. There's still a bad patch at the bottom between the two bolts holes, but most of the rest is mainly clear. I'll finish it of tomorrow and order rod, rings, seals and gaskets next week.

 

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  Finally got it finished today. It's probably take something like 5hrs total. :rolleyes:

 

   Worst bit was the patch in the first photo'. With a straightedge across you could see daylight. The second photo' is how it looks now.

 

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  I decided to temporary fit the head just to keep things together, till I get the parts I need. That is when I found another PO's bodge. One of the head bolt holes by the exhaust valve, has been tapped out the 3/8th UNC. Plus the bolt used is slightly longer with a longer shank. Not much I can do about the hole, but the bolt I will cut down to the length of the others and run a die down the shank, to get the same amount of thread.

 

 

 
8 hours ago, slf-uk said:

Wow that head was a mess but it looks like you are doing a great job with it. Do you buy your Kohler parts in the UK or in the US?

 

 

  I get any parts from Meetens, Preston, Lancs. I've found them very good and help full.

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On 6/1/2019 at 5:23 PM, Stormin said:

    I decided to temporary fit the head just to keep things together, till I get the parts I need. That is when I found another PO's bodge. One of the head bolt holes by the exhaust valve, has been tapped out the 3/8th UNC. Plus the bolt used is slightly longer with a longer shank. Not much I can do about the hole, but the bolt I will cut down to the length of the others and run a die down the shank, to get the same amount of thread.

 

Good work on the head Norm, slightly higher Comp Ratio :).

An early 70s style head with the plug hole central. Later version around 1974 was a heavier casting and the hole over the exhaust valve.

  

The bolt that nearly (or does) break into the exhaust chamber is a pain on these. If a head bolt is going to shear when initially undoing, bets are on it will be that one.

Can't remember if it's number 7 or 8 in the sequence, but was glad I put a Stud in there in my last one so it only ever needs the nut undoing without disturbing the stud. 

 

 

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