Ohlsson & Rice: Orline Mark II Chainsaw

[factory 483]

I've moved several posts about the 13A/13B shaft seals (that are not relevant to the Orline Mark II chainsaw) to new thread here:

I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts).

 

David

[CNew 403]

Thank you David, you’re the guru.  I’ll try to make sure not to mix posts in the future.

[factory 483]

Clint, I hope it all makes sense.

Back to the Orline Mark II saw, is it running OK now?

You were talking about taking it apart to check seals & the fuel lines (which are completely inaccessible otherwise), have you got the required socket for getting the de-compression valve out? The engine can't be removed from the frame with that in the way, a deep thin walled socket is required to remove the valve.

 

David

 

P.S. I will try & get the rest of that service bulletin added to the manuals thread.

[CNew 403]

David,

    I have decided to set the Mark II aside for the moment. I do plan to take it apart at some point though to check everything. I am going to read up on it a bit more, since it will be the first 20A that I have worked on and they look to be a little more involved than the 13A or B engines.  I want to know more about what I’m getting into before I’m committed 

 

I’m really glad you mentioned the de-compression valve and the need for a proper socket.  I’ll have to check to see if I have the right size.  

 

Thanks,

Clint

[factory 483]

I ended up buying two deep sockets, the first one was too large to fit.

 

 

You may also find it useful to have three longer screws/bolts to help with separating the engine from the frame.

 

Another deep reach socket is used for installing the seals.

 

Have a good read through both the 20A & Challenger Chainsaw manuals.

 

There is another service bulletin for these saws, they must have had complaints.

 

David

[CNew 403]

Wow, this is extremely helpful!  Thank you for digging through the info, these service manual tips are best known ahead of time.  I have some deep sockets but I’ll have to see if they fit.  If not, I’ll probably buy a couple  heaped sockets individually and grind the outer edge down to fit.  I had to do this on a 3/8 socket once in order to remove a needle valve from the carberatur on my Kohler K241.

[factory 483]

Just had a look at the sockets again, actually it wasn't the outside that was the problem, it was the inside not being as deep as it looked.

The Japanese one I got from a junk stall fitted, whereas the expensive Snap-on didn't (I really should stick it back on the bay).

 

 

David

[CNew 403]

Ahh, that’s good to know ahead of time.  I was able to find my deep sockets, now just need to verify it’ll fit the valve.  That’s too bad the Snap-On socket didn’t work out, they make nice quality tools.