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JUST O&R

This weeks project

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Could not decide what to do next . Eeny-neeny-miny-mo Well I think It will be an outboard .

got this with no tank. I'm not sure witch tank to use can some one help me decide?

I have a bent round one that came from a undisclosed engine And I have one from

a drillgine . ( opinions)

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IMG_3554[1].JPG

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Anxious to see John’s version with the Drillgine tank. I really like the look of the standard soup can tank on the Aquabug but I bet the Drillgine tank would look really cool too. 

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That' a display!!!    I think that's like your workbench needs to be a little bigger.

It's a little had to work when there's no room.  look great:omg:

Maybe I will get it together and put one tank on then try the other and see what I like the best.

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2 hours ago, Wallfish said:

You can see it in these pics. Yellow outboard in the middle of my display. I can get some close ups.

I'm with Clint, the soup can would probably look better but...

 

 

That actually looks pretty cool with the Drillgine tank.  Nice display as well!

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 Been digging around here at lunch and finally found a suitable downer now its time to get with it

need to have this outboard done by spring. Got some water skiing to do.   605316588_IMG_35581.JPG.30d8746465c3fb06c7a284ec6deac1e0.JPG

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Seems I saved pictures of your Aquabug, it had the bent rod for supporting the plastic tank and all the starter cover screws fitted in the back of the magneto plate, as it would have had the fibreglass/plastic cover too.

w10a.jpg.d9f97929fb501700a96a4cbec64bc53d.jpg

 

To use a standard round tank you would need a different tank bracket, with a 90 degree bend in it to allow the tank cap to face up, example below;

a2b.jpg.84ab5ab9cca356e9051d02b2e9371d34.jpg

 

David

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That looks like what I have I not sure if I have a bracket for the round tank. I know the drillgine tank will fit for sure

but I may make a bracket. ( I cant believe you save all this pictures) Just awesome!!

 

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Well four (longer) screws did originally go in that way and dome nuts held on the plastic cover.

SAM_5753a.jpg.e7952c2bcf76a6c5781fdc4e6f95ab99.jpg

 

These are the ones I ordered for my Aquabug's, I had to buy another dozen as they were too short :banghead:, I also sent a set to Paul for his Aquabug restoration.

SAM_3940a.jpg.a09ae0114e2bc90897586ebb9eb60c9e.jpg

 

David

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2 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

That looks like what I have I not sure if I have a bracket for the round tank. I know the drillgine tank will fit for sure

but I may make a bracket. ( I cant believe you save all this pictures) Just awesome!!

 

 

I save what I can from ePay (can't find stuff listed on other selling sites though) as they can be used for reference & research, unfortunately I have missed saving some stuff recently due to the difficult time following my Mum passing.

 

This might be useful to you, it's the manual that came with the Perry Aquabug's (re-brand) I bought, now added to the manuals sticky thread in Section 4 (it was posted on one of the other threads in the past);

David

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I should have a soup can tank bracket if you need one. I still owe ya!

IMG_0437.JPG.b9a336666e0ac0bb84e72af6240c9f72.JPG

 

IMG_0438.JPG.e76f3d3fffcb980c36f3bffc1bda2781.JPG

35 minutes ago, JUST O&R said:

that's great I wise it had the original top and fuel tank just will need to make the best of it.

IMO they look better without the plastic cover. But if it does have one, it's good to keep it original.

2 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

The strange part is this recoil is not threaded the blower housing plate is I just thought the guy that stuck it

back together just put the screws in backwards.

Only the early covers have the threads on the covers. The majority will have the threads on the plates and the screw heads facing the recoil. Mustang style chainsaws have the threads on the tank and the cover and plate don't have threads.

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I like that version with the Drillgine tank, pretty cool!  I agree as well, I think the outboard looks better without the plastic cover and tank but as John notes, if it has the original better to keep it on there.

On 1/29/2020 at 2:34 PM, JUST O&R said:

Could not decide what to do next . Eeny-neeny-miny-mo Well I think It will be an outboard .

 

Hold on a second.... I don’t think I saw the finished product of the fixed up Digger 10...;)

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12 hours ago, CNew said:

 

 

Hold on a second.... I don’t think I saw the finished product of the fixed up Digger 10...;)

Waiting on one handle grip they sent me two different sizes and just got the bit cleaned up to paint I will get some paint this weekend .

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21 hours ago, Wallfish said:
21 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

that's great I wise it had the original top and fuel tank just will need to make the best of it.

IMO they look better without the plastic cover. But if it does have one, it's good to keep it original.

 

You could always keep a lookout for the other version and have one original & one without the plastic cover, they are much easier to find in the US than over here.

 

21 hours ago, Wallfish said:
On 1/30/2020 at 7:37 PM, JUST O&R said:

The strange part is this recoil is not threaded the blower housing plate is I just thought the guy that stuck it

back together just put the screws in backwards.

Only the early covers have the threads on the covers. The majority will have the threads on the plates and the screw heads facing the recoil. Mustang style chainsaws have the threads on the tank and the cover and plate don't have threads.

 

A previous owner probably put those screws back that way as that's how they were originally fitted on the Aquabug (well 4 out of 5 of them) and didn't realise they could go in from the other side, but they must have noticed the starter was very loose as a result :scratchhead:.

The screws are often the shortened & fitted the normal way too, this can be bad for the paintwork on the starter, as the Aquabug used screws with larger heads.

 

David

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The tank bracket (for using a standard round tank) with the 90 degree twist is part no. #97-25, the ex-drill tank looks good too.

 

I can't confirm this, but if the engine parts list (Type 246) is correct, then the early outboard motor did use a standard round tank with the #97-25 bracket and no fragile plastic cover.

Other things to note: no stop/kill switch is fitted, the air filter assembly is not used (it has a plastic cover with metal gauze insert instead) and the condenser is fitted to the large cylinder baffle.

 

David

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David the tag on the engine is 13a-246 sn# 02024691 it has a grounding tab attached to the point screw but it does have the little white cover over the carb with a screen and the condenser is on the baffle

screw on the carb side.This probably had a plastic tank at some point because it had the tank

bracket and the screws were in from the bottom

 

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Type 13A is what they called the 1HP Compact III engine from March 1970, the serial no. seems odd normally as there is usually no more than 7 digits, if it starts with 202 then it dates to Feb 1972, the SN for mine (June 1971) is written in the last page of the Aquabug manual I added here. I have a couple of incomplete parts engine for these, I sent Paul a 13A246 cylinder baffle from one of them.

 

The tab is for the condenser, I couldn't see the stop tab in the eBay pics, the normal stop tab would be completely inaccessible with the plastic tank & cover, hence why the instructions say to use the choke lever to stop the engine or to block the air intake with your thumb.

 

David

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On 1/30/2020 at 12:59 PM, JUST O&R said:

 Been digging around here at lunch and finally found a suitable downer

Just in time too. I was gonna do ya a big favor and send ya this:yankchain:

IMG_0439.JPG.7d313875686fdd17db5c2a1d852f7084.JPG

 

On 1/30/2020 at 12:59 PM, JUST O&R said:

Got some water skiing to do.

:D funny! I missed this before

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