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Bob V

O&R Tiny Tiger Generator Carburetor

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Thanks the air filter is 1 piece. I removed a carburetor from a engine I bought and it had 2 gaskets instead of 1 gasket and what is the proper way to remove the governor and shaft. It gets fatter at 1 end of the shaft.

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I know it seems strange, but the intake manifold, where it bolts to the engine block does have two identical gaskets. The first time I saw that, I thought it was a mistake, but having two gaskets is correct. Perhaps they needed the extra gasket to get proper alignment for the governor shaft? To remove the governor shaft you will need to remove the recoil starer cover and pull the governor vane and shaft out through that side. The governor shaft just sits loosely in a rubber grommet on the engine back plate.   

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I used chainsaw mix in mine, but I add a few extra drops of oil in the tank just to be safe. These engines of the 1960's are not built like the engines of today. A small amount of extra oil in the gas makes for a happy two stroke.

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On 10/19/2022 at 6:57 PM, Wallfish said:

Long skinny flat head screwdriver

 

I have some of those check valves

 

There are 2 small holes near the middle of the spool and a soft wire in a U shape is used to pinch the rope to the spool using those holes. The wire is twisted to tighten it then snip off the twist leaving about 1/4 " of it.

You can use a copper wire strand from electrical wire, or multiple strands if all you can find is small wire

 

Edited by tvenetis

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On 10/22/2022 at 6:48 PM, tvenetis said:

i WAS WONDERING HOW WERE THE OHLSSON CRENE GENERATORS. i READ WHERE THEY USE BATTERIES TO START THEM?

 

If you meant the Creme Lure generator, the batteries will not start the engine, they were used to boost the ignition circuit only, probably not a good idea to add extra voltage to boost 50+ year old coils.

As with anything using batteries you may find some old ones fitted, I did in mine, of course they had leaked & made a right mess of the battery terminals. :banghead:

Lastly the plastics used for the tank & frame do not age well.

 

David

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3 hours ago, tvenetis said:

Dave did they use the same ohlsson engines that were on the tiny tiger ones? I can't see pictures

Yes

Here's a thread where I did a refresh on one

 

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I am putting a new governor in a ohlsson drill and the gromet is not hard but after I put the gromet in the engine it is hard to get the governor shaft to start in the hole because it is wider on that end. How do you get the shaft started.

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Hi Tim - I have never had a governor vane out of the engine case, but from what you are describing it sounds like you should slide the grommet on the governor shaft when it is not in the the engine case. This will allow the grommet to stretch as it goes over the wider area on the shaft. Then put some lubricant on the grommet and push it into the hole in the engine case with the governor vane inside of the grommet. Just a guess, but it seems like the way to address it. 

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Once the governor shaft is in the carburetor, it will stay in. It is a loose fit, but it does not come out. Sometimes it is a little tricky getting it into the hole in the carburetor and keeping it in the hole while you are mounting the carburetor, but once you get the carburetor mounted, the shaft will stay in the hole. 

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My tiny tiger runs iratically and I tried adjusting it, I canged the condenser and coil with no difference. Could the points cover have something to do with maybe grounding out the points? I gapped the points at 20 thousandths.

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My guess is that the point have a build up on them. If you already cleaned the points, then a tiny piece of debris got into the points, which will make them run like poop. It will misfire, backfire and stall out.  

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I looked at another engine on the points setup and on my tiny tiger there is no piece that is supposed to fit on the points spring pin to shield the points cover so maybe it is grounding the cover to the  points so I am going to fix that tomorro

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On 11/14/2022 at 5:26 AM, tvenetis said:

My tiny tiger runs iratically and I tried adjusting it, I canged the condenser and coil with no difference. Could the points cover have something to do with maybe grounding out the points? I gapped the points at 20 thousandths.

The points pin where the spring sits on is short and shouldn't be tall enough to touch the cover. The points spring needs to be in contact with the pin as that's the transfer of the connection to the pin and the condenser. Make sure that connection is clean. Clean the post and the spring. 

 

A cause of running erratic is typically the case seals. Leaking seals will affect the vacuum/pressure pulse pressure of the carb diaphragm and that's how the diaphragm moves to pump fuel. When fuel is pumped erratically it will run erratically and no adjustment to the carb is going to fix that.

 

Clean ALL the points connections

Add a few drops of DOT3 brake fluid (Not synthetic ) to each of the crankshaft seals with them still in place on the engine. Let it sit at least over night. Brake fluid swells the rubber and most times will be enough to seal the crank. There are other  little O ring seals at the points push rod and the one screw for the carb. If they are missing it will cause a big leak

Bent or damaged carb to case gaskets can do the same thing

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I put that cap on the points spring to keep the points from shifting on the pin and after it warms up runs good thanks. Bob v can you send me a email lost your address.

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