Just received another O&R 60, large exhaust, shown with the small exhaust behind. I will clean up, inspect and run. New one has a 1/4-32 plug instead of the 3/8" fitted to the other.
I have one that I will be fixing the points on to get consistent runs out of, I got a reply about fuel ect from another site, I have listed the reply below. The whole points housing is very loose on the crank case and floats around while running.
Cheers
Andrew
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Hi Andrew,
Looks like you are the proud owner of a fairly early model Ohlsson & Rice 60. The reason I say "fairly early" is due to the small exhaust port and the side port air intake. Possibly pre-war, but just as likely early post war.
The engine looks like it is complete. It still has needle valve and fuel tank, ignition points assembly, both prop washers, and prop nut. Looks like it even has the second terminal nut for attaching the points wire. The only parts you may need are a couple of longer crankcase screws to extend through the radial mount and also three more nuts to secure the engine to the firewall.
As far as help with wiring, coil, and fuel recommendations, I would suggest that you look at the Society of Antique Modelers web page.
Once you have opened the home page, scroll down the topics list on the left side of the page until you find the engines topic. Everything you ever wanted to know is there, plus the opportunity to ask questions.
I'm not too sure of name brands to suggest for the fuel and the oil that you will mix in with the fuel. In the states, a good choice is "Camp Fuel". Coleman fuel is the common name brand here. It's just low grade gasoline without alcohol. Warning: If you use any fuel that contains alcohol, you will ruin the plastic fuel tank. For oil, I use one of the synthetic oils sold at motorcycle shops for use in two-stroke motorcycles. The instructions for use with motorcycles usually suggests a 40 to 1 mix, but with the little model engines we typically use a mixture of 3 parts fuel to 1 part oil. On a well worn engine, some people even use 2:1.
I haven't searched, but the SAM site may even have a PDF of the Ohlsson instruction sheet.
While I still can't do a lot, I have done the basic layout for the start of the machining of the engine mount, sourced a block of 2" alloy bar stock. Will make the mount to suite the 48" hull.
I found a supplier for the ply to build the hydroplane, looking at just over $130 for the ply, but he wanted over $400 for freight, so I decided on a 48" mono hull that I picked up very cheep in kit form.
Thank you, I would like the photos and dimensions of the cast mount if you can do it. I have added a photo of the two engines together so you can size it. Each cylinder is approx. 25cc
I can probably get some measurements and some pictures of the Octura mount I have, if no one has one for sale.
They seems to be two versions of the Octura mount, mine is the standard cast alloy version, but I have also seen a version made from a section of extruded & machined aluminium.
Here are a couple of pictures of one (not mine);
David
David, Thank you for the photos, that one looks like a piece of extruded alloy, the other one that I have seen is a cast one. Looks like I will just machine one out of a block alloy. Photo is just one engine I have
Thank you David, Would hate to damage the OEM parts, as it looks like it has done very little running. Will have to hunt down some taps so I will be able to make up a carby adaptor.
I have a silly question about the screw and bolt sizes in the O & R 3/4 hp engines, it may be common knowledge to you but I have only seen one other of these and that was a long time
ago.
The case screws, carby mount screws, and the output shaft screw. All appear to be 32 pitch thread, but I no longer have any reference material to imperial sized screws and bolts as I
My copy is out of the Popular Mechanics Do It Yourself Encyclopedia set, Volume 8 published in 1968, That could be the difference.
The diaphragm is in very good condition, may not had much running, After looking around here a lot, I have noticed that the clear on-way valve is missing from mine, this could be causing the problems that I am having. When I change the carby over I will machine up an adaptor piece, so I can always convert it back.
Did you install a new diaphragm? If not, it will definitely need one for the best performance. As for props, it's almost a nightmare to find the optimum one without trying multiple pitches.
I was lucky enough to hook up with a rc boat club and a knowledgeable guy with a box of props helped me figure it out. We ended up with a 3 blade, beryllium Octura prop, not
sure of the number. How about a photo of the boat?
I will be replacing the carby with another, not shore from what yet, Looking at quite a few from OS, Super Tiger and OPS. I will make up an adaptor to fit the new carby to the OEM housing. I run and race boats with RCMK K30's, I was just after a base number for the prop to start with. I don't have any photos of the original boat that we built as they were old school photos that were either lost or tossed out on the many moves since.
I have just found this site., I helped my dad build one of these in the mid 70's from plans out of Popular Mechanics, and I have a complete copy of the article. I have just acquired a 3/4 hp engine to power it, After a lot of cleaning out of the carby it is a good runner, still need to do some fine tuning of the carby. The only info I don't have is the prop size, any info on this would be helpful. If any one is interested I will post the rest of the article.
O&R model 60
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
You could try at http://www.mecoa.com/index.htm The Cameron 23 has the same tank
Cheers
Andrew