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Hello all Some of you will remember my Huttenwerk Tractor which i had on here, well I have been busy overhauling the Tracks starting with the track plates then new rubbers and bolts , And today the track cover plates were fitted 50 off factory made from 1.6 mm mild steel then drilled and painted Matt black . and to finish 200 coach bolts washers and m8 nuts all to be tightened up. Then over to the wash and clean corner this now runs so well now i can hardly believe it hope you like i think it great

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.- I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner. Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid. So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled- Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed. Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045- The bits had to fit within these parts- So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries- The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall. Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not. - I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F. So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age- Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!. Regards

Now for a errr... Interesting challenge.. How to cut a smallish square from that big slab! The best and quietest way I could think of was a bit "iffy", but it worked.. That looks very close!! But it clears, just.. Lot's of cutting and turning later, all three parts are the right size. A quick look at my plans... Or should that be rough scribble? And it was time to fix all three parts together... A single bolt kept it all in check.. So I could mark out and start drilling holes to put some bolts through. Here's the top drilled out.. And the base... A bit of countersinking was needed.. So the bolt heads would sit flush. More to follow later including a rather well edited if rather long video... Tune back for more later..

Grab a lump of ally.. Bung it in the lathe and face the end off. A bit of a trim down the side. More metal removed, the black pen stuff was to help me get the right shape.. Or near enough.. Almost there now.. Parted off. Then finished off... HHmmmm.. Shiny To fit the knob thingy I had to drill yet another hole.. Tap a thread in it. Ta Daaa... Almost.. Not sure about the thread showing.. A bit of ally tube soon had the looks sorted.. And finally fit the finished tool holder to the lathe.. I hope you all have enjoyed this little build, it was quite fun to make Of course..... This build comes with a video

Our local event so popped up for a look this morning Not much horticultural but one or two machines of interest...

Hello Gents, Thanks for viewing and your comments. A little more progress to date. The front end is more or less sorted ready for the chimney to go on and is now sitting on it's front wheels. The cylinder in the original model design had a bland side face just shaped and usually painted black. I, as may be seen in a previous post, just had to make things more difficult for the sake of detail. I made up a cover plate and secured it with screws as per the full size engines. This has been painted the same dark blue as other parts and (I think) helps to finish the area off. I have just replaced the last temporary screw on the cylinder part for a stud/nut, but you will see a countersunk screw in the top Guide Bar in this pic which I had taken earlier. The tiny (7mm dia) steel handwheel on the Blower Valve was drilled and finish filed by hand/eye, but looks ok I think.- The steering chain drum finshed and now fitted is also modified from the model design to reflect full size layout. The chain (brass) is what used to be supplied to clockmakers for the winding system on long cases. I plan too make my own at a later stage in steel with brazed links- Lastly for now, I finished making the square headed blanking plugs and stop pins in bronze for the water pump and now fitted in it's partially hidden place down behind the rear wheel. Original model design was for it to fit on the side of the boiler, which looks way out of scale, and over the years, other modellers have experienced priming issues when in steam with boiler mounted pumps. I think it is because of the heat, but I fortunately redesigned this back in 1987 to locate in a cool area similar to full size layout- Sorry about the last image quality, I deleted the wrong one . You may notice a red dot adjacent to gear tooth on both the 2nd and 3rd motion shaft gear wheels. I have a slight resistance in rotation where these two coincide, so i think i must have a tiny burr on them, so i will pull these off and run them with some p600/oil & 'T' cut grinding paste to bed them in. The running clearances were set using cigarette papers (about 0.0015"), so it doesn't take much to obstruct free movement. Hopefully more soon. Regards.

Finished the Chug-a-Drill (at least until I find a loop handle or have one made). Took some serious cleaning but well worth it. It’s definitely an awkward tool to sit down without the loop handle. Resting in on either side makes contact with the exhaust, tank, air cleaner or coil.

With the green side up, fold lines and the 4 screw holes were marked out.. A bit like this.. The two short folds were easy as they were straight folds.. My (now dismantled) metal folder couldn't handle the thickness of the steel, so the control panel cover (just realized, I've not actually told you that's what I was making, so I hope you'd guessed right?) was clamped to the lathe pulleys tilt thingy/ex Wheel Horse chassis using a length of solid square bar... Can a bar be square? A bit of hitting stick action.... Soon had the edges bent around.. Bending the curved parts was not quite so violent for the steel, but it did take longer.... It also involved a "Bending stick"... One of these in fact.. Take this part slowly and don't try to bend too much down at once or the steel will kink.. Slot the "Bending stick" on and push down slowly.. This is the first bend.. Third (I think) bend.. And the almost finished bend..er bend From this point on wards, I forgot to take any pic's of making the cover.. For some reason I took a pic of the heavy rain through the window instead The finished control panel cover... Mounting it to the lathe bench will come later.. Oh, here's part 2 of the vids.

Hi all, sorry for the lack of posts from me in...ooooo... quite a while! Life changed a great deal when Covid appeared and my Wife started working from home.... Spare time is something that is very very hard to come by! That's not to say I have not been busy in my little Workshack, it's finding Workshack time and the time to post anything anywhere that's been the problem.... Sooooo.. With my new Workshack finally (well, almost as they are never finished) and the lathe re-power done (I will update the Re-power thread), it was time to make something that my Southbend lathe has needed in a long time.. Yep a new tool holder that can hold more than one cutting tool at a time The said lathe in question.. To make the TH I needed three different size lumps of steel.. Here's the base part being cut to size. The middle part will be cut from this odd lump of steel that was coated in clear rubber, then bolted to a Volvo bulkhead! No idea what it did in the Volvo! The third and top bit will have to be cut from this rather big slab! While the middle part was being cut roughly to size.. It was filmed on an old phone that was rubber banded to a tripod! My faithful video camera had snuffed it you see.. The middle part being turned to size.. As my hands are not working that well these days the Power Crossfeed thingy I build has come in very handy and saved lots of hand ache.. The middle part done.. And plonked on the base.

Brilliant job, Ian. And good to hear from you.

Thanks Richard, it's good to be posting again, it's been far too long... Nigel mentioned yesterday that it's been a bit quiet on here, something about that strange place that's Farcebook! I should of built this tool holder a long time ago, it's such a handy thing So where was I? Oh yes.. about here. With both top and bottom bit's drilled and countersunk.... It was time to cut some threads in the middle section.. Top bolted down.. As was the base.. Before the bolts were welded in, I countersunk the holes a bit wider so I could get a good weld all around the bolt heads. A quick check to see how the cutting tools looked... Quite happy with that. A nice sturdy bolt was cut down and welded to a small square of steel, it will come in handy for clamping the holder to the carriage. In this pic you can also see the "block" has had the bolts welded up and turned flush on the lathe. The bolt with the big square head fit's like so.. The original "1 tool" tool holder won't be in use for much longer.. A quick test fit, me likey The big question was........... Had I got my measurements right and did the tip of a cutting tool end up in the right place???? Yep, that will do nicely

I am 19 years old and always working on garden tractors. People my age are always spending time with their girlfriend. The other day my parents came asking if I had met any nice girls and if their was a girl I liked. I replied with only this picture:

now its time to see if the engine will spark and bypass the fuel tap and fuel pump needs cleaned out pipe work full of old crap That will be the next job to overhaul the fuel pump and tap leaks. Sparkplug is sparking now to put a small amount of fuel down plug hole Yes it offered to fire. I just tied a spare old fuel tank that was kicking about the workshop connected up fuel lines and it now running. That's enough for today still more to do the next few weekends

After 2 months of poor weather conditions, I have managed to continue with painting and some assembly. I finally fitted the last of the valve covers on the cylinder block after setting all the valve event adjustments and finishing the motion work off to a standard of sewing machine smoothness. This allowed me to apply a penultimate semi matt black coat over all the joints, stud heads and nuts to consolidate the whole finish. The Chimney saddle and the exhaust pipe were painted separately, as the saddle is bolted, instead of the original model design of riveting. It is easier this way, as I can reach into awkward corners and touch in the bolt heads with the Airbrush on a fine setting. Just need a little more care this way of fitting without paint damage. I detailed the exhaust a bit more with fitting a bolted flange at the cylinder end. The exhaust is 1/4" diameter pipe for clarity- The Regulator Rod just under the safety valves in the next pic has a dummy tail rod and gland. I have to make the 2 x 14ba studs and nuts for it yet. I decided to machine and file it from the excess metal on the casting to give it some detail, as the original model design just showed a lump of round metal there. A bit of cleaning up of the overspray on the raised brass lettering to do, but otherwise a major step forward on the assembly front- I did manage to get the top coat on the flywheel last month and very pleased with the finish. Only temporarily fitted, so the gib key pulls out easily- Hopefully progress and updates will continue to speed up now, as the jobs on other projects are building up as well as work down at the museum. I have managed to get some lathe time in though, helping out with making unobtainable parts for old mowers for a guy on the Old Lawnmower Club forum, so I have been busy really. Regards.

The day was coming to an end fitted the mud wings That's all folks stay safe enjoy the rest of the Bank holiday weekend Hame time now.

Got the chuck off...

The field opposite has not been used for a couple of years. There is a drainage ditch running through it and two years ago the banks were cleared of tree's and bushes. Those were just pushed to one side and left. I got a few loads of firewood out of it last year. Last night a contractor I know, was cutting back the undergrowth round the edges, ready for fencers to come. The farmer who is going to rent it is going to reseed it and graze sheep in it. This uncovered some more timber I could not get at. This morning before it got too hot, I went in with chainsaw, Sears and trailer. Half an hour and I had a full load. Maybe some more later as the fencers clear more undergrowth.

Hi all, it's about time I put this lathe re-power thread up. I first mentioned it a long time ago in this This Thread . For some reason I did not take any photo's of the build, so all the pic's you see have been grabbed for video footage, which means sometimes the pic's are not as sharp as they could be... sorry.. Before I moved out of my old workshop, i stripped down the treadmill leaving only the parts I needed... The motor and all the wiring/circuit boards.. And the control panel.. A closer look at the motor. 1.25 HP, but 180 volts DC which means I have to use the electrical gubbings that powered it in the treadmill.. So the question is... How do I get power from this little ribbed pulley... To this big pulley on the lathe First lets make a mock motor with direction of travel, as it's much lighter than trying to hold the real thing in place.. The easiest place to mount it would be on the wall above the lathe, but making something to tension a drive belt could be awkward! Also mounting the "speed change pulleys" would be fun as it would have to sit somewhere in the catch tray.. Somewhere about here.. Despite the amount of space it would take up behind the lathe, I decided to go with the mounting system I made for the lathe years ago. Here's a view from the back when the lathe and I were still at the nursery workshop.. Thankfully I can make it a bit less "hangin out da back" or else I'd have to cut a hole through the wall in my new Workshack! It used to pivot on the back of the bench on this steel rod. The trouble was I'd cut one of the hinge brackets off to make the lathe bench easier to move to my new Workshack! Never mind. let's lighten it a bit and cut off an unneeded bit in the saw.. One broken blade later... But after some more of this.. It finally came off. Leaving this odd small bit of box sticking out.. Sooo, out a new tool came

How how does my new toy perform? Not bad at all It still needed a bit of hitting.. And wiggling! Back to the back and time to sort out this hinge problem.. A quick bit of marking out. Small drill.. A bigger drill... Don't you just hate it when this happens? So I finished it by hand with a step drill... very handy things A bit of trimming and a couple more holes and with it bolted on the hinge repair was done... Now I know this is steel on steel, but as I don't have to change "speeds by belt" that often there will be very little ware.. Whilst I was down that way, I bolted the "belt tension arm" back in place. The "beltey tiltey bit was fitted on.. Sorry about the naff pic. And this little collar stops it from moving side to side. Loads more to come, so tune back at some point for more..

Now may be a good point to drop in Vid No 1

Thanks Alan, it's good to be back.. I'm not sure how crazy my builds will be, only smaller stuff these days.. But still fun to make Thanks Norm, yeah it has been a while, life has/had been on hold since Covid popped up! Hi Ray, don't be envious, have a go yourself.. I'm self taught, no training what so ever... Liking a challenge helps as well

My old MG2 from feb 1936 is about to go to a new home in Gloucestershire. Rebuilt from a pile of scrap in 2016 to as near ex factory as I could get it, it is now time for it to go to a new home, not without a fight though it has not been run for three years so a good day was spent stripping the car. magneto, de- compressor . Surprised myself that I managed to crank start it without immediate cardiac issues!. Last time it was shown I covered it in a mix of WD40 and oil which over the years has collected dust so that it now has a patina that looks it's 86 years. I managed to get it to run and had a good charge around the garden for old time sake. Sad to see it go but too many projects left to deal with. As far as I know 137 is the oldest known MG2 crawler being number 36 of the line, it has the Sturmey Archer 600cc side valve engine fitted with the chain crank starter mechanism, open exhaust and flat top engine cowling fitted with a cycle brake lever to operate the decompressor.

I came across these pictures today have you seen them before? One of my Turf Trax was originally a bank mower.

I wished I hadn't watched - it just made me even more envious of your skill.

Good to see you back Ian. Now we need to see more of your crazy builds.

So, having created an odd shaped lump of metal with a hole through it, a few more holes were needed... Marking the holes out.. Drilled.. The with the aid of one of these.. I was able to fill the holes with bolts Me likey even more Next on the hit list was to make a handle so the holder could be clamped down tight.. Having a nut to fit the big bolt was handy, but a nut alone wasn't enough.. So in the lathe went a random "useful" bit of steel which was turned down and bored out.. To fit the nut most of the way in but still give plenty of gap to weld the nut on. A bit of weldy sparkly action.. Back in the lathe to turn the welds down. Chop the end off.. The cut a taper on the cut off end.

Good to see you back postin Ian!. Should help to stem the flow of tumbleweed and the sound of howling wind across the forum. Good work there. A much larger form of 4 way tool post than I have on my old myford, but they're sooo handy. Keep 'em coming. Regards

Having an inspection of the latest 1032 to arrive at the workshop. Can anybody tell me what's growing in the seat

Hello Maxwell- 8 Welcome to the forum I am interested on your comments about the Gutbrod Tractor on here, this is one of 7 my brother and I own, I have had my own tractor since i was 14 and have found them fantastic little tractors. I use my tractors all the time also use them at Ploughing matches and have never found any weakness in them quite the opposite fact they seem to be unstoppable are you speaking from experience or some thing you have read ?

Thanks for the photo's, Paul.

Took some searching but found this. Might be just what you need to make a handle https://www.grandbrass.com/item/hasb10/

Here we are back at the workshop today starting to find out why we have no spark at the plug Started to remove front mask to get into the point Starting to remove flywheei Have now removed flywheel found more snail Here I have got to the bottom of the problem points dirty so whipped them out will clean them later. Replaced them with new points.

No issues. I just logged in and opened some of the PDFs, seems to be working.

No but I got a nice new pallet and a load of twist wire included.!

I have come across these in a property I have recently taken over, all look to be brand new. I have 1 Turbair Fox 3 Turbair Flydowners 1 Turbair Sprite 1 Turbair Power pack Do they have a value and who is likely to be interested in them? Thanks in advance I'm a bit clueless about them.

Managed to get it fitted and operational spent a few hours levelling off the drive and made a huge difference, really pleased with it has to be my bargain of the year new price in the States is $1600

Message Paul mackellow he collects them

Took a break on this for a little while to fix the ignition on a Tecumseh powered Blue Star welder. So I was able to cut the carb spring shape from the spring steel material. Edges were sightly rough but a little filing took care of that. I reassembled the carb with the new spring and reproduction carb diaphragm and check valve. It fired right up after priming the lines with fuel using a little air pressure! Only adjustments I've made is the mixture screw to get the rpms right for the correct voltage. Calling this one done for now I guess. Might need to keep an eye out for another OR tool to rebuild!

Finally got the saw back together. That took way too long. It’s been busy but it feels good to finish this project. I may tackle the Chug-a-Drill next...

I've been making a couple of attachments for the Sears/Roper recently. First was a front tow hitch out of some scrap lying around. May not look pretty, but functual and cheap. Secondly a rack for the rear of it. I did make a tote box for the front to carry my chainsaw etc, but on really rough ground it would hit large bumps or ground out on deep holes. So I decided to make a rack to carry it behind the seat. Again made from scrap and an old scrap gate. Box trial fitted. Finally some paint thrown on with a brush. Later I had an idea. I was bored BTW. A seat was lying on the shelf, so let's fit it to the rack. Not ideal but good for a laugh. Certainly strong but best not pull any wheelies.

Finally got around to getting the "Roper 38" tiller working, modified the hitch pickup mountings to match the 3 point on my C121. My 3 point was originally going to be hydraulic, but getting the geometry right without the whole lot hanging too far back was awkward, due to the under seat fuel tank. So I used a winch instead. This is rated at 2000 lbs with a " snatch block " pulley mounted on the lift arm cross brace, the tiller weighs around 250lbs. I've taken a few photos, but only after everything was fitted.

Tried to add this to the sticky at the top, but somebody has it locked. It' for sale on eBay right now.