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First walk, still without engine. The armchair will also be refurbished

So, I took the carb apart again, and reassembled it properly. Little bit of fiddling with the mixture and it runs nicely. Hunts slowly at idle, but when the throttle is opened up it runs quite well. Dunked it in the pool and it wanted to pull me in! I'll get a video when I put it on the canoe next week and post the link if anyone is interested.

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube. I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

So my dad got this engine from a guy at work around 80-81. As far as I know it was never installed in anything, no marks on the mounting feet and no marks on the output shaft. Looks to be a date of 1969 on the ignition wire. Even back when my dad got it he had trouble with the diaphragm on the carb but never did anything with it. Always talked about putting it on a skateboard. lol. So fast forward to about 2 years ago and my parents decide to move out to the middle of nowhere, eastern oregon so my dad sells everything in the shop, but not before I grab this engine. Covered in dust and grime, paint flaking off, all the labels fell off it was kind of a mess. Last week I decided to finally do something about it, stripped it most of the way down and put the pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner which did a pretty great job of cleaning up all the parts and stripped off most of the paint from the starter housing. The tank was pretty clean but kind of plugged up so I put some gas in it and used a RC fuel transfer pump to circulate gas out of the outlet dumping back through the vent nipple. This seemed to do a pretty good job of cleaning it up. Found some paint that matched the original paint on it and painted and assembled today. Still need to get the new foam for the air filter but it should be ready to run. Wallfish sent me some diaphragms which I installed. This is the paint I used, basically an identical match, painted two coats and then baked the enamel at 180f for about an hour. Baking the enamel usually results in a tougher finish. I have one of the three labels on the way, hoping to eventually find the 1HP and kill switch label. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GYS1ZG/ I ended up buying this hose pack from amazon to get the .08x.14 hose I needed to replace the fuel line. Still need to shove some string I the vent line. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GYS1ZG/

Here is a link to my wife's O&R collection. She also has a Tiny Tiger (not pictured) that is partly disassembled. It all started with the yellow pump (Type 217) that a friend of her grandfather gave me. Jen's O&R Collection

Here's a short video, ran ok (not so much for this clip) but then starved for fuel after maybe 5 minutes every time. Loosened the fuel cap, drained and cleaned the tank, opened up the carb.. seems very sensitive to fuel level/sloshing. Diaphragm maybe? Ran great while clamped to a 2x4 in a vise but as soon as it got near water.. or under a load... oh well.

Rennie’s trimmer project inspired me to work on my Paramount trimmer. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein but nice to finally have it complete. The piston was frozen and had a broken connecting rod. I was able to salvage a piston and rod from a parts engine. I found a reasonably good cylinder head from another parts engine along with cooling baffles. I was able to fix up a recoil cover from misc other bits. Got the gas tank repaired and cleaned up inside. The only thing left to do now is wire up the stop switch (I’m waiting for some wire I ordered to arrive) that goes on the handle. Then I’ll have to give it a test run. It’s got really strong compression now so hopefully all the salvaged parts work together correctly.

Been a while since I updated things... firstly new rubber! after getting the wheels powder coated I stuck a new set of 6-12 on. I couldn’t find another Dunlop ag tyre. Ewan fixed the hood... made a smart job, where it had been butchered then this happened. I made a three point for the back. then this 😀 the IH club helped me get the original number plate. Registered in Carlisle in 1964. I painted a plate in scale with the tractor. Not legal, but I’m hardly likely to drive it on the road... Still need to sort a trip darn south to see Chris and pick up that engine. Then I can think about adding hydraulic lift 😁 in the meantime I’m planning a pto on the back...

Another three gone today, two MG6 and the Jarrett MG5, Had a disaster with TVo MG6 spent the whole day yesterday serciceing and getting it started, ran for a couple of minutes and then big bang crankshaft snapped through one of the webs, conrod through the block piston smashed serious mess, fortunately I have enough spares to build up a replacement but never the less they are not leaving without a fight. Now down to 137, Digger, ITW Barge and two sand skimmers.

Unfortunately my information is missing engine Type 329 but the short-block replacement list does include it (doesn't give use). I think it was a chainsaw engine, I can see some of the starter housing screws have nuts on the back, this is because most of the screws would have gone through the back-plate and straight into the chainsaw tank. The starter is the wrong type for a 13B, but fitting the 13A or Compact I, II or III type would also require a change of flywheel as the starter dogs are different. It's strange that it uses a very late coil, but the air filter is only a single stage type, possibly been added as some chainsaws use a completely different type. Of course none of this really matters if it was a new spare chainsaw engine that was setup for a shop display. For comparison this is an engine that was on a Mustang Model 13 chainsaw. And here is the same engine on this chainsaw. David

Factory, you are correct about the pump. It is a Kenco Model 61. The yellow engine with the gear box is NOS and it does not have mounting tabs on the base, they seem to have been milled off, and the output shaft is cut off with a plug closing off the hole. Our friend that we got it from said that it was a display unit for salesman to show off. Here is a picture of the output side.

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

I was given what was described as a "really small outboard" which turned out to be one attachment of many that were available. I wanted to get it running, but when I took the carb apart the check ball was missing, as well as the roller that goes under the spring. Does anyone know the diameter of the roller? I'd like to get it running this weekend so I can take it to the lake!

Re: Metric Bearings Almost all ball bearings are metric because ball bearings were invented in europe. Conversely almost all tapered roller bearings are imperial since they were invented in the US. You can order either as specials in other units but generally speaking thats the rule of thumb.

It's certainly an interesting display engine. The base tank (part no #A-32-26) with no mounting tabs was made for at least one tool, the Orline Yard-Arm, but that doesn't use a gearbox as it's direct drive, is it possible it's been added to display the engine? The blanked off PTO shaft is used when the shaft is fitted to the other side of the gearbox, i.e. towards the engine, the chainsaws & bicycle engine kits are set up like this. That style of muffler/exhaust is used on some of the chainsaws, such as the Model 13 Mustang. Has it got a engine model/type stamped into the cylinder baffle plate or on the end of the crankcase mounting flange (exhaust side)? David

Hi, im a new member that knew nothing a out the existence of O & R engines till a week ago when i became the owner of a Danarm Hedge Trimmer. Ive decided to attempt to restore it, but whilst it seems in a reasonable state need some help in where i might look for parts. Testing the magneto with a multimeter it appears to be dead ( broken HT im guessing) the engine is missing a tank too. Anyone know anything about this unit? (Photo inc) its age etc? Thanks in advance 😊

We have been looking for a rare side mounted shredder for ages, to fit on our Westwood D1200. One appeared in our local auction and we managed to get it for a great price. The shredder had been modified to run from an electric motor and the mounting bracket was missing. We were going to make a mounting bracket but managed to get one. The challange was to turn the shredder back to standard and fit it onto the tractor. I think the attachment bracket was designed to be factory fitted because it was a lot of work to fit. Once we got the attachment fitted to the tractor we hit a problem. The idler has been modified and the belt it came was was incorrect, which is one too many variables. A replacement belt is proving to be very difficult to find, a number of Westwood dealers claim the attachment does not exist and I don't know anyone who has the attachment who can help. Does anyone know what the belt size should be? A quick video on progress, even my cameraman got in on the action!

New test stand ready to go...

We used to service one or may be two tractors that had the bracket etc but never saw the shredder itself. I gave a former employee all my Westwood belt charts but I will ask him if he still has them.

Something different Joseph. Sorry I can't help with the belt size but nice to see your cameraman at long last. I see you are training him to get dirty too.

Finally got the “J” mounted for display. I’ve got it bookending my workbench on one side and the cut-away engine on the other.

back again, just to let you know that the engine started with the old points, I just took an earth wire to ground (direct to battery) turned on ignition and engine started and ran ok i now have a few other problems but that is for another forum on where to get parts like tinware and a breather cover so thanks for now see you all shortly

Hmm, is this deck old ?

Rotax engine. 2 stroke, Nigel. Non runner. Engines free but no spark. I'm going to leave the engine for later. Long way to go yet.

Here are some pictures of the only TAS Motor I have in my collection so far, it's a type J-22 engine, I keep looking for one of the older TAS engines to go with it but haven't had any luck yet. It also came with what maybe the original toolkit. David

A bit later than planned . Here is my TAS Motor engine type J-22, I put a rule against it so you can see the size, I took a picture showing the crankcase screw as well. More pictures in the TAS thread; David

Yes it does Yes, starting to get tough to find the missing tools but there are several so the hunt continues...

Nigel, There's a powder coating. Of course, everything is sandblasted beforehand.

I meant the cylinder fins 🙄

You did tell me to do a write up on my Gloria resurrection in September last year and I have managed to get some photos together but I just haven't seemed able to get the time to do the write up. Once the nights get a bit darker and I have to walk the dog in the afternoon instead of evening I'll make an effort to start a topic on the subject.

Second brood of Moorhen chicks this year. Six all told. First lot didn't survive. Cats, crows and magpies. One crow and one magpie contracted lead poisoning.

Did l pay a fair amount ( 400.00 ) for this machine. Runs great (no smoke), new belts, new blades, minimal surface rust, new battery and tires in decent shape.

That’s interesting. It has a 13B exhaust collector and muffler like some of the Orline chainsaws but looks to have a 13A recoil cover. Neat piece to have in your collection.

Nice collection !

Glad you found us Mike. I remember seeing that page when I first got into collecting O&R engines a while back.

That explains what Danarm were importing & rebranding, it's a Grow Gear trimmer with a planetary gear box (not the same as Orline, etc), see the Grow Gear advert part way down the page here; The fuel tank is plastic & fits the two smaller holes on the gearbox. My later Grow-Gear for comparison (has different handle but other-wise the same). David

Unfortunately the guy that I gave the charts to has dumped them. However I’ve spoken to a friend who worked for both Westwood and Countax. The shredded was made by Countax before they made tractors of their own but made most of Westwood ‘s accessories. The mounting brackets etc were a dealer fit and he recalls that there were two or possibly three brackets to suit different configurations of tractor. He thinks that the belt could have been a B section cogged one.

The cooling baffle indicates it's probably from a circular saw. I don't remember ever seeing those on other tools.

If you could find a source, something like these would also be suitable with some modification to the pickup tube. David

Looks a useful piece of equipment, Joseph. And rare as well. Be interesting to see how well it works. Can't you use a piece of rope to give an approximation of belt length?

Back to work this week sent my wife to Florida for a few weeks . I will go down on Saturday for a few days its hard to getaway this time of year. Got the tank cleaned out today and I am repairing were the battery acid melted the plastic on the lower screw that holds it to the tank. ( best to take the battery's out The battery acid seems to eat in to the plastic.

Welcome to the forum! That’s a great outboard you have there. There are two size balls used for those carbs, 1/16 and 3/32 so not sure which one you have. Do you have a photo of the inside where the ball seats? The little rod that the spring legs ride on is not easy to find but I’ve had success just cutting one from small piece of rod or something, even used a heavy duty paper clip once. Or, you can go a more precise route and get the correct diameter rod at a hobby store. K&S makes a bunch of small rod, brass tubing, etc. and a lot of good ACE hardware stores even carry it. I believe the little roller rod is 0.063-0.065” in diameter. Also, be sure to click the Ohlsson Rice home page as there is a really good carburetor rebuild tutorial if you get stuck.

Hi Nigel, yes I will follow your advice. Thank you. Hi Stormin, thanks for the info.

Foote did make gearboxes you can split but on the mustang they were sealed like I said before it only has 1 forward and 1 reverse gear I have owned ten of these machines over the years, they all had stiff gearboxes and every one of them freed up with a small amount of use, my opinion is you will be opening a can of worms for no gain by splitting it, why don’t you get the thing running and drive it first ?

Foote were also used in the Ariens YT tractors in the 80s. We used to open them up and replace the grease adding a bit of semi fluid grease to ensure that it moved around in side the box rather than form a mould around the gears. I believe that Foot ceased production following a major fire at their factory. The box used in the YTs was a three speed and reverse plus a high and low range change giving 6 and 2.

Been thinking about that myself. Maybe driving around will help.

so in a twist of fate, I ended up selling this machine on. Main reason was I didn't have the knowledge to fix the cutting deck to a safe standard, and didn't want to throw money at it for someone else to repair it when so many other machines come up for minimal cash. One of the blades was home made, welded straight to the spindle. I wasn't comfortable getting a proper blade welded straight on, and couldn't find a replacement spindle/mount. I found myself a T1100 with 36" deck instead, which is near identical to the W11, but had larger tyres, a 36" deck which is easy to source parts for, and was in generally slightly better condition. It cost me a fair chunk more than the gazelle, but I feel it will save me in the long run. My dad has a T1100 too with 36" deck, so means we can trade parts. Guess thats the end of this thread, will start a new one for the T1100 once i have made a load of progress and can post it one go

Slowly, slowly forward. Now there will be mounting the gearbox and engine

First elements came back from the paint shop. I'm waiting for the rest and start folding.

Well...decided to put the 1.2 horsepower Tas motor used in the Aqua-bug/Bike-bug and Sears Gamefisher outboards in my second Petro. Besides more horsepower, the coil is neatly positioned inside the flywheel cover, and the intake port is actually in the cylinder. There are no reed valves. The gearbox side has the same 3 hole pattern, and crank end has same length/taper. I will be modifying this to produce more power by way of increased compression, porting and carburetor/exhaust improvements. Wait till you see the tiny expansion chamber I build! World's fastest Little Petro???