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Hello All, i got an ice Auge driller for less money (25€) here in Germany. I like this little old machines much. My old o&r Drillgine gone broken some years ago… I didn’t found much informations about this tool online. Does anybody has a manual? First thing I have to do, is to clean it. Than I have to change the old fuel line. Maybe after these things I will mix fuel and try to start it 😄 to bore a hole into wood… greetings from Germany Jens

That’s a Magnetron ( electronic, no points) coil. Setting the air gap by the book - turn the flywheel to move the magnets away from the coil.Loosen the coil bolts and pull it away from the flywheel, tighten one. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the coil armature legs. Insert your non magnetic gauge between the coil legs and the flywheel. Loosen th holding bolt so that the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel. Tighten both bolts and rotate the flywheel while pulling the gauge out. The gauge. I remember that instruction sheet supplied with new genuine coils can be used as a gauge. I use a strip of plastic cut from a milk carton.

HI everyone, I have inherited an old HAYTER similar to the original poster. I think it's a HAYTER 21 Brush cutter . Its a 5HP I/C. (please chip in if I am incorrect) The Briggs engine numbers are 132922 0170 01 87120707 As you can see its in great condition. Very little rust. It does start. But the START/ RPM Throttle lever is not set up correctly. (especially at the carb end) The carb spring linkage needs setting up. Ive never done this but I am up for the challenge. I have 2 pics below of the carb. There are 2 springs. Is there a 3rd spring missing? If so..... The 2nd pic has an arrow in red where, I think there should be a link and the green dotted line is where I think there should be a spring. Am I correct or way off? Is there a need for a 3rd spring. I love this machine and I am looking forward to using it, and keeping it alive. Many thanks in advance. Kind Regards Steve A Welshman lost in France

All the Best, Doug.

The points pin where the spring sits on is short and shouldn't be tall enough to touch the cover. The points spring needs to be in contact with the pin as that's the transfer of the connection to the pin and the condenser. Make sure that connection is clean. Clean the post and the spring. A cause of running erratic is typically the case seals. Leaking seals will affect the vacuum/pressure pulse pressure of the carb diaphragm and that's how the diaphragm moves to pump fuel. When fuel is pumped erratically it will run erratically and no adjustment to the carb is going to fix that. Clean ALL the points connections Add a few drops of DOT3 brake fluid (Not synthetic ) to each of the crankshaft seals with them still in place on the engine. Let it sit at least over night. Brake fluid swells the rubber and most times will be enough to seal the crank. There are other little O ring seals at the points push rod and the one screw for the carb. If they are missing it will cause a big leak Bent or damaged carb to case gaskets can do the same thing

The barge tractor is going to a new home near Bristol just need a new home for the sand skimmer machines.