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factory

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factory last won the day on March 8

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About factory

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    Cheshire UK
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    Stationary engines and vintage electronics

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  1. There is a John Deere dealer about 2 miles away from me, will have to get some of that grease. David
  2. factory

    Having new gaskets made

    I've scanned the gaskets I could find for the Compact engines (3/4HP , 0.85HP, 1HP), everything apart for the primer diaphragm ones & the gear-case gasket, will add that one later if needed. Here is a pdf (letter size page 8.5" x 11", not A4) of the scanned gaskets; A-5-33-2 A-5-33-4 Gaskets.pdf It would be good if everyone indicated which ones they would be interested in having replicas made of (maybe copy & paste, then highlight them in a different color). Earlier engine kit; 5-3 Crankcase flange gasket 5-4 Diaphragm valve gasket 5-5 Induction case gasket 5-6 Reed (feather) valve gasket 5-8 Carburetor gasket (Qty 2) 5-14 Exhaust collector gasket (lower) 5-15 Exhaust collector gasket (upper) 5-16 Muffler gasket Later engines may use these instead, which are thicker than the paper gaskets; 200469 Induction case gasket 200470 Reed (feather) valve gasket Later cylinder gaskets; 200600 Exhaust collector gasket (upper) David P.S. I found another exhaust collector gasket type listed in the manual for later engines, 200600A (Qty 2, no idea, haven't got any)
  3. And from the Model 20A maintenance manual, it also states "oil is not to be used" in reduction gearboxes. David
  4. I'm now pretty sure O&R changed to using grease at some point in the late 60's, maybe they knew the seals were a problem then. All but one of the revised (1968/9) parts diagrams in the master service manual have had the gearbox oil filler screw (part #26-36) deleted from the parts list & the # label removed from the diagram (if present). And the one that hasn't is Type 199 with a direct drive clutch only, no gears. So I'm also going to recommend using grease from now on too. David
  5. I can't help with the exact amount of oil for the Drillgine, but the Bridges used one tablespoon of oil (SAE 30 or SAE 10 below 40°F) and one teaspoon added every 10 hours of use. But I'm beginning to think they may have changed to grease at some point, as looking at the pictures of the gearbox on my Drillgine I can't see the two Oil fill screws that are present on earlier ones (and looking through my saved pictures all the later ones are the same as mine). Have you got any pictures of yours now it's apart? Also looking through the master service manual I'm struggling to find anything that says to use oil, the two service procedures for the chainsaws use grease for the gearboxes (Lubri-Plate and Union Oil Co Unoba F-1 grease are the two types mentioned). Can't help thinking I must be missing a service bulletin about this. David
  6. There are some close-up pictures of the governor vane & where it fits into the carb here; Need to add some pictures of damage that can occur to the governor vane, the later ones with the aluminium shaft seem to wear thin in couple of places (with a lot of use). David
  7. They were specified for 6300rpm at the full HP rating, of course it may go higher if there is a governor problem, the vane is damaged/bent or someone removes the vane assembly (common with RC modified engines). Here is a typical graph showing the brake-horsepower against engine speed (for the AEP Series 13B 1HP engine). I would be watching the governor vane next time you try the engine, to see that it operates & closes the throttle butterfly as the engine speeds up, if it doesn't it will run at max speed (looking for earplugs emote), if the vane falls out the same thing happens (guess how I know that). The idle speed should go below the speed that the clutch (if fitted) operates at, which is a nominal 3000rpm, otherwise the clutch would never disengage. The idle adjustment screw (top one) is there to allow the idle speed to be controlled, the more it is screwed in the more it prevents the butterfly inside from fully closing & increases the idle speed. The chainsaws can't really be compared to your engine as they have the throttle control fitted (the two lower holes, below idle adjust), there is nothing stopping you from adding a control here if you want (it was an option extra for these engines), the max speed should reduce the more it's push in (I've seen screws fitted here by previous owners too). David
  8. It can be found in the Engine rebuild sticky thread; Is this the engine that had the missing carb spring & retainer for the throttle spring? Things to check, the throttle butterfly moves freely & springs back OK, also check the governor vane hasn't popped out of it's locating hole & it's not bent out of shape (if it has the metal vane type on the flywheel end). David
  9. I have merged the two O&R Cut-away Engine threads & edited the title to add the engine type (3/4HP). David
  10. factory

    Having new gaskets made

    Sorry to hear that. Will look for my gaskets at the weekend & take some better pictures (or scan them), maybe label up the various types as well. They were bought to use as templates for making replacements myself. I definitely haven't got any of the chainsaw tank ones though and only have one of the gearbox gaskets. David
  11. That engine with the external stop switch & magneto cover looks like it fell off a Comet circular saw. And your right with enough new parts & a thorough cleaning any engine can be made to look new. David
  12. Good to hear the impact driver sorted it. Probably because it's been on there a very long time, plus in normal use the chuck will self-tighten the same as the chucks for my small lathe do. Now that ePay have sorted out completed listings (was showing no items for about a week for me) I see there were some NOS gearbox seals sold recently, so they are out there, though they could be just as perished as the original. Also I can't remember if we mentioned this before, but if the engine PTO shaft seal is bad it will suck all the oil out of the gearbox, again a suitable sized O-ring can be used to replace this if necessary. My Drillgine has the rebranded AEP engine, which is the newest engine in my collection, dating from August 1978. David
  13. Thanks for emailing the pictures, I have created a PDF of the Creme Lure documents today, I will upload the 1962 O&R documents later (I have a couple of other documents to add to that one first). Advert sheet; PDF, Creme Lure Co. Super Power-Pack.pdf Operating manual & warranty card; PDF, Creme Lure Super Portable Power-Pack Operating Manual.pdf The business card; David
  14. Possibly not the original key then (mine is missing too), you would use the handle end of the chuck key in the hole (key below). Can you confirm there is a screw down the centre of the chuck, it's a bit late for me to go & check tonight. Usually reversible drills have the screw down there. This must be the other technique John is referring to, I don't think the chuck in this video has been in very long, it came off far too easily. https://youtu.be/N4ycjguUFZk David
  15. Exactly as the instructions say, insert chuck key into a hole in the chuck (green arrow) and using a hammer strike so that it will go in a anti-clockwise direction (blue arrow). The same technique could be used on old electric drills, to replace or upgrade the chuck, or in the case of some drills allow the use of certain attachments. Maybe all the old oil has leaked out, the two halves are not sealed as the reduction gear passes through the middle section. David
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