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factory

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factory last won the day on July 5

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About factory
 
 
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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Cheshire UK
  • Interests
    Stationary engines and vintage electronics
 
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  1. Some good advice about fuel/gas in that, definitely don't use anything containing alcohol (aka ethanol), that will include most stuff sold by petrol/gas stations, over here in the UK they can put up to 10% ethanol in it now, which is very bad for any O&R engine, it ruins plastic parts, rubber seals & the diaphragms etc, it's also hygroscopic (attracts water from the air) and will lead to corrosion. Non ethanol fuel/gas (non-oxy) can be found for use with garden machinery, but check the label to be sure. David
  2. Yes that is a fuel tank underneath, but I don't think it's Ohlsson supplied one. Some of these engines had a plastic fuel bowl under the carb needle valve (use of the wrong fuel will destroy these) and others had a metal tank that fitted behind the crankcase. The Octura information I have mentions glow fuel containing castor oil. I can't really advise on the ratio as it would depend on the performance required. The introduction of in glow fuels caused some problems with Ohlsson engines and could cause catastrophic failure i.e. the con-rod bending in early engines, they changed to using steel con-rods which would then cause the head to be blown off instead. If you interested in the history of the early Ohlsson model engines and the eventual problems when glow fuel was introduced, then the reprinted articles from 1966 in the 1999 Thermaleer newsletters are worth reading, see pages 12 to 13 of issue #59, pages 12 to 13 of issue #60 and pages 16 to 17 of issue #61, available as free downloads from here: http://www.sam600.com/old-site/b_thermaleer.htm David
  3. Unfortunately the original instructions are no help for the fuel mix, as they wanted to sell you pre-mixed fuels, which since O&R and the Cheminol Corp no longer exist isn't much use to anyone. David
  4. Definitely a glow plug then, the O&R instructions say to connect a 1.5V battery for starting only, but O&R sold their own plugs, will the Champion be different I don't know. We still need to find out a suitable glow fuel mix, as they state to only use O&R No. 2 Fuel for glow engines. David
  5. Looks a very nice boat with an Ohlsson 60 engine fitted. Can you clean the ceramic part of the plug up and let us know the type, it could be either a spark-plug or glow-plug. As I can't see any points assembly fitted (would be behind the flywheel) it is more likely to be a glow-plug. Will have to see what fuel they recommended for these, it will also be a fuel/oil mix. I can't imagine the cooling fins working very well if you are going to run this engine on it's own. David
  6. Can anyone confirm the type of engine fitted to this car? The one in this thread could either be a Model J (gearbox has clutch fitted) or a Model F (no clutch) or a newer variant of those. Oddly the rusty one in the other thread seems to have a different engine with it, that one only has a single stage reduction gearbox fitted. David
  7. That's cleaned up nicely, I take it there are no gaskets for the gearbox? mine certainly seems to be leaking oil from it. David
  8. I've been contacted by a new member about the manuals thread, is anyone else having trouble opening or downloading any of the pdf's? The only thing I can think of is maybe they were logged/signed out and the pdf's do show as unavailable then. David
  9. They don't have a great value, but are usually in much worse condition than those, did you find the bottles to go with them? The power pack goes with the battery operated Sprite, the Flydowner should be mains powered. Here is a rough Turbair Fox than has been advertised for a few weeks, think the start price maybe a little high considering the condition. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114820785127 David
  10. Didn't go past the "accept cookies" pop-up which hides most of the page, but it looks like a Drillgine, these were produced from the early 1960's all the way till the end of AEP (O&R) in 1978, the one advertised has the later type of starter mech which was introduced around 1970. BTW I don't use bookface, too much unwanted tracking etc. for my liking. We have a general sale & wanted section on the homepage, scroll down to "recycling center" to find it. People sometimes post them in the O&R section too. https://myoldmachine.com/forum/24-for-sale/ David
  11. The generator wiring has rubber insulation, very common in the 1950's, 1960's & earlier for lots of stuff, this either turns hard & crumbly with age or sometimes turns into a sticky gooey mess. It's rarely used these days, last failed rubber cable I came across was in a circa 2006 Weller soldering iron, the insulation of the inner cores had gone hard & crumbly after about 10 years and ending up shorting out the supply. The CNC router did a very good job at making those, are there lasers that will cut sheet steel? Seem to remember seeing sheet metal cut using a plasma cutter & using a water jet too at an engineering trade show many years ago. David
  12. Not done anything else with mine yet, but I imagine the chuck should unscrew same as the others, as always check there isn't a small screw hidden inside the chuck, don't think we've found any yet though. David
  13. Nice to see it running again and excellent work with recreating the carb diaphragm arm spring. What did you use to cut the spring sheet material? David
  14. It'll be branded Merc-O-tronic on the bit your missing, no idea why I didn't post this before (no it not mine either). Could you find another Orline and transfer the pump over? don't know if they are any easier for you to find in the US. David
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