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factory last won the day on June 29

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About factory
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    Cheshire UK
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    Stationary engines and vintage electronics
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  1. There are three different versions of the Comet circular saw that I know of; The first & earliest (1961 or earlier) branded Comet C/Saw, I can't imagine many survived for long without the tank getting damaged; Second version same as yours, also branded Comet C/Saw with improved tank handle; And finally the later version, branded Comet Tote'N Tools, with cast tank; Have you got the special cover that Comet used for the magneto coil? David P.S. None of these are mine, I only have a Comet pump myself.
  2. They had brochures listing various engines (with or without gearboxes, clutches & tanks) that could be bought for building into whatever project you could think of. A couple of later tools in my collection have the blanked off vent next to the filler cap, but they also have the filler extended too. David
  3. Those early coils often have crumbly insulation on the wires, heat-shrink sleeving works OK, just be careful not the overheat the plastic casing of the coil. David
  4. Nice that's an early one with the starter housing screws in the back, I've seen several new looking engines for these C-Saws on eBay over the years, no idea what people did with the rest of the saws. Are 8" blades obsolete too? I've found 4" grinding discs are no longer made too, they must do it deliberately to get people to buy more tools they don't need. David
  5. Just had a look at the sockets again, actually it wasn't the outside that was the problem, it was the inside not being as deep as it looked. The Japanese one I got from a junk stall fitted, whereas the expensive Snap-on didn't (I really should stick it back on the bay). David
  6. Same here, finding time to work on my O&R's or vintage electronic stuff is difficult at the moment. David
  7. I ended up buying two deep sockets, the first one was too large to fit. You may also find it useful to have three longer screws/bolts to help with separating the engine from the frame. Another deep reach socket is used for installing the seals. Have a good read through both the 20A & Challenger Chainsaw manuals. There is another service bulletin for these saws, they must have had complaints. David
  8. I've merged several other threads about shaft seals into this one. David
  9. Some pictures of my Lancaster Mini Automatic can be found in this thread (post #5): David
  10. Clint, I hope it all makes sense. Back to the Orline Mark II saw, is it running OK now? You were talking about taking it apart to check seals & the fuel lines (which are completely inaccessible otherwise), have you got the required socket for getting the de-compression valve out? The engine can't be removed from the frame with that in the way, a deep thin walled socket is required to remove the valve. David P.S. I will try & get the rest of that service bulletin added to the manuals thread.
  11. I've moved several posts about the 13A/13B shaft seals (that are not relevant to the Orline Mark II chainsaw) to new thread here: I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). David
  12. Several posts moved to here from Orline Mark II chainsaw thread (that doesn't use these smaller seals). I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). Thanks for the link! Yes, that’s been the challenge. I found some 3/8 ID but they’re just ever so slightly too large. I’m still going to test them to see if when under some pressure they expand enough to create a seal but I’m doubtful because they’re too loose in a static state. David
  13. Unlikely as they usually have one of the O&R engines with a gearbox & the standard round tank. Looks nice on the stand/base. David
  14. That Wizard Mighty Mini has the 13A 1HP engine and the Wizard CAT20 the 20A 1.6HP engine, Western Auto Supply were both a mail order company and had many retail outlets too. I have a Lancaster Mini Automatic that looks almost the same as that Mighty Mini, the only difference is the later 13B engine. David
  15. Here is the video from that article, the O&R display is about 42 seconds in; The orange saw is a Western Auto Wizard CAT 20, not seen the yellow one opposite it before. Nice way of displaying them, he needs to update the years on the label though. I found an older video from 2009, the O&R display starts at approx 5.36; He seems to have one of those Mono ones too, the bright green one is a late one from AEP branded Jim Savage. David
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