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factory

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factory last won the day on July 22 2018

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About factory

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    Cheshire UK
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    Stationary engines and vintage electronics

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  1. factory

    Reed valve for O&R 20A in an Eel Wheel

    Glad I could help , the rest of the parts listed yesterday sold pretty quick too. David
  2. factory

    Reed valve for O&R 20A in an Eel Wheel

    Don't know if your still looking, but here is one item that's almost as hard to find as rocking horse poo; https://www.ebay.com/itm/143090770658 David
  3. factory

    Bearing for ohlsonn 1hp

    Can I suggest you post some pictures of what you have, as this thread is a complete mess, maybe even start a new thread, last thing you want is the wrong part, as they increased the shaft sizes from the 3/4HP to the 1HP engine (also let us know the model or type of the engine). All the parts used on these engines (except the spark-plug thread) are imperial as far as I know. Rollers shouldn't be a problem to obtain, the original races more of a problem. Also check out the carb rebuild thread if you haven't seen it and remember to remove any old crumbly filter foam from the air cleaner/filter assembly. David
  4. factory

    Bit of Humour, I hope

    The last episode of that series does if my memory is any good. It's a comedy history of Britain, there was another for Shakespeare. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b09yp1gr/episodes/guide Philomena Cunk's (not her real name) 'moments of wonder' was originally a mock-u-mentary segment of the Charlie Brooker TV series 'Screenwipe' & later 'Newswipe' which also featured Barry Shitpeas (another made up name) and US comedian Doug Stanhope, I wish they would make some more. David
  5. You shouldn't expect every O&R to be in mint condition, they are around 40 to 50+ years old, most of them were bought to use and some had a much harder life then others (eg, hedge trimmers & crop sprayers in the UK) and people didn't always look after them or store them in a nice dry shed. It takes time & patience to obtain (or make) the necessary parts for restoring these small engines & their tools, sometimes a donor engine is needed too. 1, No spark, check the usual, points, wiring etc. 2a, Drilled out starter rivet , happens more often than you may think, I suspect in the past it was much harder to find out the correct way without service information. Can be sorted with a new rivet if it isn't drilled out too much (been there fixed one before). Putting your first spring back in is more tricky fun. 2b, It looks a later engine so a replacement crankshaft shouldn't be too hard to get, unlike an early one (like rocking horse poo, I eventually found a bare donor engine for one once). 3, Pictures of two others suggest the gearbox is indeed a darker blue than the auger section, they probably bought in/out-sourced the auger section rather than make it themselves. 4, Carb damage, again very common problem, eg. cracked casting where air cleaner attaches, broken off choke lever, broken needle valve & missing bits (look for spare ones or spares engine). Along with missing/damaged air vane or air filter/cleaner assembly. 5, Dirty and or rusty tanks, most seem to be like this (unless never used), clean if possible, you maybe able to disassemble with a can opener & solder/braze back together (not yet tried this, I'm also thinking of making some tanks from some small coffee tins). Filter often clogged too, can be cleaned using a glass syringe attached to the fuel line pipe to gently pass cleaner solvent or fuel through. 6, Coil rusty, I've had very few problems with coils, but they are often rusty from bad storage/neglect, clean with small wire brush/wheel (sometimes you can remove the steel core to make this easier). Good luck with the restoration & if let us know if you find more augers, it something my collection lacks and I'm sure Paul would like one too. David
  6. It looks perfectly restorable to me. Send it over here. I've fixed worse. David
  7. Maybe you need to build an engine test stand, here are some pictures of the one 'usedtoolman' built on the old forum, original post here; https://web.archive.org/web/20130814204047/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com:80/engine-test-stand-t1232248.html Here some pictures of mine, which didn't quite go as planned (I have the posts spaced a little too close together), need to drill & tap some more holes in it at some point, the large chuck of steel came from an engineering surplus stall at one of the local engine shows. David
  8. factory

    Set of Comet tools

    Been looking through saved pictures and found one showing the parts list, unfortunately the clutch drum with gear & output gear have O&R part numbers, so they could be the die cast ones. I've also noticed one of my engines has the type of pulley for the belt drive used on the Comet Circular Saw, so could have possibly been a NOS replacement for one. I've also noticed there are at least three slightly different versions of the Comet Circular Saw. David
  9. Yes it looks right to me, the crankcase pulse tube goes the pipe on the carb pump cover and the fuel line to the pipe on the carb main body. David
  10. factory

    Set of Comet tools

    It's likely to be fitted with an early engine, so expect it to have the plastic bearing races, not sure about the gearbox as it's not a standard O&R one (early O&R ones had die-cast gears). Here are some pictures of the gearbox used on the Comet chainsaw (permanently borrowed from ePay); David
  11. factory

    Little Petro mini bike

    I don't know about the Tas Motor, but the O&R gearboxes are filled with one & a half tablespoons of grease (from the chainsaw manual), someone who sold & serviced the O&R chicken power kits in San Diego said that the clutch wouldn't engage properly if there was too much grease on the clutch, see here; https://motorbicycling.com/threads/lack-of-speed-with-chicken-motor.19076/#post-632019 David
  12. factory

    Set of Comet tools

    I haven't seen one advertised for some time so can't help with the value (then again I don't have time the search through all chainsaw listings to find them), also I can't really comment on how complete it is without seeing it. Usually the non-Orline chainsaws go for more $ as many more people collect chainsaws, but they are no where as costly as the minibikes, which are by far the most expensive O&R powered item these days. David
  13. factory

    Aquabug surprise!

    I found some pictures of an incomplete one, showing the inside of the gearbox. I think it confirms where this bevel gear & broken gasket in my spare parts came from. David
  14. factory

    Tas tanaka

    The E3.10 spark-plug seems to be sold by places like 'Homedepot' & 'CanadianTire', does it say on it where it's made? (I can't read the text on the bottom half of it), also it looks to be longer reach than the CJ8 or CJ14, so check it doesn't hit the piston if you use it. The comparison chart on Amazon suggests this plug is not the correct replacement for a CJ8/BM6A or CJ14/BM4A; https://www.amazon.com/E3-Spark-Plug-E3-10-Garden/dp/B000BPS038 David
  15. factory

    Aquabug surprise!

    I take it you have already separated the engine from the propeller & shaft section to confirm the lower section is seized? I actually store mine separated to prevent further damage to the fragile plastic engine covers. Sadly the manual doesn't have a exploded view of the propeller section or a parts list. One of mine has the opposite problem to yours, the engine doesn't turn the propeller (which is free to turn on it's own) , I hope it's just the shear pin that needs replacing, the pair I bought also came with some bits that may have come out of a third Aquabug. Maybe I should have a look inside the gear-case when I investigate the problem & add some pictures. David
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