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factory

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factory last won the day on November 26 2020

factory had the most liked content!

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About factory
 
 
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    Advanced Member
 
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cheshire UK
  • Interests
    Stationary engines and vintage electronics
 
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  1. It should clean up well, far too cold this time of year to do any cleaning though. Do you have any pictures of your TAS P7 ice auger? I couldn't see any when I had a look through the thread before posting, you were asking about the type of spark-plug for it, this TAS P7 drill has an NGK B7S if that helps. David
  2. A new addition to my collection is this TAS drill which was a Christmas present, the engine is a TAS motor P7 but the starter looks a little different from the other two drills on here, possibly a later version? David
  3. That looks very nice, I couldn't find anything to match those feet either, but did buy some that were much too small. If you want to sell a few of the Palnuts I could use some, I suspect others may want them too. David
  4. Both supplied by Orline products, I guess these would match the pictures in the articles (neither are mine). David
  5. Looks very good Paul, what happened to the damaged tank? I now have some more information for the Aquabug's to scan in at some point. David
  6. It should be 'B' in your picture, for the line that goes to the carb. Some pictures showing the inside of the tank in this thread (post #6); David
  7. I've had a search through the forum and can't actually find any pictures showing the insides of the starter mechanism or what the spring looks like. Would be interesting to compare but I don't have any of the smaller TAS engines. There are some used P7 parts in France, just not the one you are after. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_armrs=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=tas&_ssn=vmp-58 David
  8. Have you thought about trying to repair it? I've used a torch to heat the broken ends of some O&R starter springs & shaped them with some round nosed pliers to match a good one. David
  9. Is it just the starter spring that is damaged? and is it similar to the O&R ones with the ends shaped to fit into the starter reel at the centre & be held in the cover on the outside? David
  10. Sorry I can't help with recommending a new trimmer (it might be worth asking the same question in the "hand tools" or another more relevant section or we could move the above post there), but if have any queries about the O&R engine you mentioned in your introduction post we can help. David
  11. @Avidcollector I've sent a PM about carb diaphragms & sent my email address for those scans of the Champ book when you've got some free time, I can then add them to the manuals thread. Yeah, he's worse than facebook! LoL Almost as bad, I haven't managed to save everything this year, saving the US stuff has become difficult too, as I can no longer see some of it since ePay are blocking the webpage I use to search completed listings over there. I have over 9000 O&R pictures archived from ePay & some other webpages, its only about 1200 O&R's as most have several pictures, that number also includes some edited pictures when I've cropped them for adding to relevant posts on the forum. David
  12. @Avidcollector If you haven't already seen it have a look at the carb rebuild thread and while not applicable to the outboard it's worth checking anything fitted with an air cleaner for that crumbly foam that once was the original air filter. David
  13. I'm assuming the rip saw is something like the Comet C/Saw, only really seen in the US and not too common; Are your referring those that rarely turn up in the UK or something like an Orline chainsaw imported from the US? The UK models usually make quite high prices, as there are many more chainsaw collectors than O&R collectors. If you have patience a reasonable condition Orline chainsaw from the US should be around $100*, the problem will be finding a seller prepared to ship across the pond, also shipping is fairly expensive (typically $120 to $150+ by USPS), don't forgot import fees too. David *perhaps one of the US members could have a quick look at completed listings to confirm, as thanks to ePay changes I can no longer see all ended US items.
  14. JIS cross heads should have a dot stamped into them, this doesn't guarantee the thread is JIS though. Just as many Phillips or Pozidrive screw heads get damaged by incorrect tooling too. I have original tools kits my FMC kit engine & TAS J-22 engine, don't have any of the smaller JIS drivers though. David
  15. Not very unusual, it's a Bulgin connector commonly found on vintage electronics, very sensible for it to be the version that normally gets fitted to a mains lead, that way you can't accidentality plug your 12V Turbair into the mains. Why they have used a 5A rated connector when the Turbair is rated at 10A I don't know. Thinking about it there is a risk of a Bulgin mains lead being plugged into the battery pack, I can imagine the battery would get pretty angry if it had 240V connected to it. https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/Bulgin1.html David
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