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factory

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factory last won the day on December 9 2019

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About factory
 
 
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    Cheshire UK
  • Interests
    Stationary engines and vintage electronics
 
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  1. I've moved the posts about the Drillgine parts to a new thread here: David
  2. Probably a bit late (I had to take a break following a bereavement), the needle valve assembly is very easy to break if overtightened due to being made from thin sections of brass. I'll have a look at mine to see if it uses the standard clip for the throttle cable. David P.S. I've moved these posts about the Drillgine parts from the TT thread to this new thread.
  3. Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes. I'm OK, been very busy and had other things on my mind following a family bereavement, I've got a lot of catching up to do now. David
  4. That looks very nice, it's the Orline rebrand of the Varo Amp Champ, it should have the Varo details ground off on the generator. They look home-made to me, I can't help thinking if O&R or Varo had supplied those leads they would have crimped the wire directly to the alligator clips. David
  5. Here are some of the pictures saved from the ebay listing, together with some of my Orline Gusher pump. Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump / MINI one-by-one water pump. Orline Gusher pump Model 570. David
  6. I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. I've moved the post about the Lancaster Pump from the Aquabug thread to here. I never saw it either, not been on ebay the last week either, hopefully someone on here got it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193236843806 It appears to be the Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump or MINI one-by-one water pump that we hadn't seen before (at the time this thread was created), by the way this pump is more commonly known as the Orline Gusher pump sold by O&R. David
  7. I've moved the post about a Lancaster pump here; David
  8. Service bulletin SE-063 gives a cylinder to crankcase torque of 25 - 30ft. lbs. but there is no mention of how they do this using the cylinder removal tool. With new exhaust collector gaskets it should just be possible to turn the exhaust collector for positioning after the cylinder is tightened. David
  9. I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. The service instructions gave information on how to make a cylinder removal tool, there is a thread on here where I posted about it. I've since found it easier to hold the engine block using a vice (with soft jaws) and to use what you guys call a 'crescent wrench' (or adjustable spanner in UK) to turn the bar I made, I found the round bar used was too easy to bend if the cylinder was very tight, also didn't fancy turning any of my screwdrivers into banana shapes. Making the cylinder removal bar longer than needed also allows you to file/shorten it when it wears on the edges. Note; Never attempt to unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck from dried out oil residue, doing so can cause the con-rod to bend & break. The slot in the top of the cylinder should either be parallel with the engine crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it, @Wallfish has already mentioned this and the service info posted by @JUST O&R also mentions it. David
  10. That price seems excessive to me, it doesn't have any extras like the manual, original box.... or the required (a spark). David
  11. You say it revved up before shutting down, did it rev higher than normal speed? If it happens again once you've rebuilt the generator check the governor vane hasn't fallen out of the butterfly valve in the carb. I had this happen with my first TT (Tiny Tor), the cause was the governor vane being bent in the wrong direction and it kept falling out. The early governor vane should sit up as shown below, if it's more towards the flywheel then it's bent. Note: the governor vanes vary a little depending on the age of the engine. David
  12. Good to hear it arrived OK, looking forward to seeing some pictures. David
  13. @tackdriver56 was the first to post about the carb diaphragm with the bonded disc, he used Seal-All to reattach it to the new diaphragm. David
  14. I'm not a fan of facebook myself but wish you luck with the group, if anyone on your group needs help with the O&R engines found on the earliest batch of Little Petro minibikes feel free to send them here. David
  15. If you want help with the engine production date, then the first three numbers after 13A246 will help date it to the year/month it was made by O&R. Note: this only applies to engines made after June 1967, which your Aquabug should be. David
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