-
All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Yesterday
-
It's a version of the basic engine design that may serve several applications. You could find that engine spec example on a Generator set. I would stick to traditional mineral based 30 weight Oils like Castrol XL. Many of these older engines are not suited to modern oils. Look's also that you are reasonably familiar with Kohler engines If possible, it is prefereable to provide images of issues and problems you have with this 'project'. Many who view a Topic may not be familiar with the machine type/model, but may well offer methods of dealing with the issues etc. If you can keep the image resolution to about 900kb, a standard membership image allowance will let you post more of them. Supporter Membership is unlimited.
- Last week
-
Thank you. "Pump"? "Engine has oil pump", I assume? I have removed the cutter bar. It is rather bent, the knife bar that the blades are rivetted to has a continuous curve, the thicker bar it sits in and which the fingers are bolted to has quite abrupt bends either side of the casting it's bolted to. I should be able to straighten out both (and keep an eye open for spares/used ones, attachments, etc.). Some of the fingers are bent at the tips. I wonder if it's possible to straighten them, perhaps by heating the ends and hammering back to position on an anvil (or in my case an old offcut of RSJ)? Also, at each end, the "double finger" blocks have been flattened rather, that it the piece that covers the top of the blades has been bent down. Perhaps these can be bent back to position? The "hardened steel inserts" look OK (not rounded at the edges). Are these removable? I'd guess not. The "drive lug" in the centre of the cutter bar is quite worn. The engine, even with the cutter bar removed, seems a little stiff turning over. It had at least some oil in it, not too discoloured, which is encouraging. There is no spark. Perhaps the points are mucky, as they were on my Howard 350 (Kohler K141T). I'd better get the lid off and look at the valves, and fix an annoying shortage of fasteners in the cowlings too. Somebody has made a frightful bodge, and hammered in a bolt on the RHS wheel/shaft. The bolt threads are striated, but the keyways don't look too bad (as far as I can tell without removing the wheel). Not sure whether I need to look in the innards of the actual machine, or just change the oil (is there an improvement on the recommended SAE30 engine oil nowadays)? Perhaps there's a decent "Allen Scythe mainteinance/restoration" video lurking somewhere? There are all sorts of videos, but mainly of people who don't seem to be very familiar with these "frightening" machines trying to use them, with varying degrees of success. I will have to gently look into various things and see what's what.
-
Thank you. I will look at their site. Edit: Spares for Kohler K91 enginess seem sparsely represented there. Can't find general Allen Scythe spares there, unfortunately. Have found this online, re engine servicing: https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf. Good.
-
L&S Engineers took over Meeten's stock: L&S Engineers | Top Supplier of Spare Parts for Construction and Garden Machinery | L&S Engineers (lsengineers.co.uk)
-
Warthog joined the community
-
Engine is 1972 model. The 'P' stands for `pump version !. The 'T' stands for retractable pull start. Kohler Engine Workshop Manual and parts list can be found by online searching, as can the parts list. Oxford Allen manuals also online and some parts still available via - Villiersparts
-
Hopefully not too big a project. Looks from this thread to be a 1972 engine anyway: (Where Jarrovian said: "was the machine originally red with with cream/off white wheels because the only model fitted with a Kohler K91T fitted was the last TS model made about 1970/1972 engine parts are available from Meetens at Preston who do an excellent mail order service as regards tyres there is a firm called China Parts in county Durham there is also Villiers Parts but George can be a bit troublesome at times so I personally use him but many have had good service) I'm asking questions in another place too, trying to get maximum info/help. If that's not OK, please will someone tell me PDQ! Unfortunately, parts sources seem to have changed since the quoted thread was posted. Can anyone tell me of parts sources (machine, engine) currently operational?
-
Rchrd joined the community
-
Rogerio Skarstein joined the community
-
-
Ovsta joined the community
-
-
Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards
-
- Earlier
-
Yes, those older type coils are not a replaceable wire like the newer type coils are. You can repair it with a new wire but you're still soldering and repairing the insulation anyway. By just repairing/replacing the insulation on the old wire, it remains looking original. Plus, I don't know of any plug wire to repair it with.
-
Thanks for the advice! Is there any specific reason on why you would suggest a repair of the spark plug wire, and not just a complete replacement? Also, is there a specific gauge of wire that is best for a spark plug wire?
-
Could you please tell me what you used for yellow and white paint as I am about to start a repaint job on one of the units that I just picked up
-
Bigfreeze44 joined the community
-
I don't think this will answer your questions, but I thought I would add this for anyone interested in the history of this machine. In the early 1970's I worked for a company, Garden Mechanisation in High Wycombe. This was the lawnmower sales and service company owned by Gerry Hazlewood, who subsequently went on to form Westwood Engineering. At some point, Westwood had purchased a stock of Dynamark Tractors from the US (I think). These had been shipped to High Wycombe in bulk and stored at the rear of the Garden Mech location on the A40 east of High Wycombe. Problems were; these were not initially sold in any quantity and also their storage location was at the bottom of the yard alongside the River Wye (the Buckinghamshire, not Herefordshire Wye). The river Wye routinely floods in winter, meaning these units were frequently waterlogged for extended periods. As a somewhat junior engineer, I was often tasked with unpacking one of these from their soggy cardboard boxes and trying to get them to function again as tractors. On most occasions I managed it, and these went on to be sold to some unsuspecting customer. Please accept my belated apologies for the condition of your mower, if it was one of mine.
-
That guide also explains how to repair the spring. By heating to cherry red then allowing it to cool . It can be bent back into shape without breaking it. Can you please ask question in a new tread or a different thread instead of the this carb tutorial. We need to keep it cleaner and especially so with questions that do not pertain to the carb.
-
SuperDumDum joined the community
-
I just got the carburetor installed and now I think I broke the starter recoil spring and I don’t know how to remove it . I’ve got the housing off but it appears that it’s riveted to the housing . Any ideas? thank you for the coill repair guide and yes the spring is broken. Does anyone know where to get another spring? Knockdown Thank you for the coil repair guide. I got the spool off and the spring was broken so now I need a new spring. Does anyone know where to get one?. I want to thank all of you guys for all your help and support Knockdown
-
There should be a small cup on the center of the recoil housing that is riveted but the spring wraps around it and hooks into the cage of the recoil housing. Ther is also a retaining clip that holds the spring spool. Hard to describe. Search the Manuals section on here and there are some really good photos of how to remove the spring. I’m not sure how to add a link but here is the first page. I the Manuals section scroll down until you see the same title and you can access the entire pdf file. better yet, I forgot Wallfish added a tutorial section on Recoil repair:
-
I just got the carburetor installed and now I think I broke the starter recoil spring and I don’t know how to remove it . I’ve got the housing off but it appears that it’s riveted to the housing . Any ideas?
-
I am a new Hayter Osprey owner having snapped up one that was for sale in the next village to us and of course the usual internet search for information was initiated soon after collecting the 'Beast'. Hence finding this forum. As far as I can tell a previous owner replaced the original engine with a 12hp version and that seems to have serious grunt. The clutch friction material was pretty well worn down but I managed to find Custom Brakes and Hydraulics in Sheffield and sent them the clutch plates and they sent them back with new friction material bonded on, more or less by return of post. This is what I have bought and already it has more than earned the modest purchase price by clearing overgrown parts of our paddock.
-
Yes the carb cap hole should be there. The abbreviation NOS = New Old Stock I've repaired those cracked insulation wires. Removed the cracked insulation, coated with liquid electrical tape (a few coats), covered with shrink tube. It can be covered with different sizes of shrink tube over top of each other but it makes it kind of stiff Yes, any engine can "run away" with high RPM.
-
I think I’ve had to do that same fix before as well. I don’t recall any issues with adding a new wire spliced in right about where you’re pointing. If the wire core isn’t really damaged you might also be able to just break off all the old insulation and then do a couple layers of shrink tubing. You’d still have to remove and reattach the little clip. i can also confirm, my carb also has the little hole.
-
I figured that I would cut around here, leaving a section to solder a new wire to. On the other end, I want to save the little C shaped piece to solder onto the new wire, so I plan to cut it off and solder it to the new wire. Also, what are the NOS engines that I have heard about and seen pictures on this forum. Are they bigger in some way? Or are they newer?
-
That’s awesome, glad to hear you got it running. I’m pretty sure that hole in the top of the carburetor is supposed to be there, I think it allows the diaphragm to pulse. I’ll take a look at mine and see if it has the hole. can you add a photo of there you plan to solder wires?
-
It runs! I mixed up roughly 32:1 of fuel and 2 stroke oil and attempted to start it. At first the fuel mixture screw was way too rich (lots of fuel out of muffler), but I got it dialed in and I got a handful of 1/2 to roughly 1 second runs. Once it finally sounded like it was about to run, the spark plug wire fell off. I have a few other questions about the engine though. While I was taking apart the carburetor to check the diaphragm a little while ago, I noticed a small pinhole in the top of the carburetor. I assume this is not supposed to be there. I have repaired a hole in a carburetor on a 4-stroke engine with a 2-part aircraft epoxy. Would that work in this situation too? And about the spark plug wire (and the other wires connected to the magneto) is there anything I need to be careful about or worry about when soldering new wires in their place? Is there any type of a runaway scenario possible on an engine like this one? (imagining we had no way to kill the spark) Could the engine keep going full throttle and blow itself up?
-
I have 2 engines like this as well. One has the oil hole and the other doesn’t.
-
Gareth joined the community
-
help with Stationary engine tarpen gen set
rog130 replied to rog130's topic in Stationary Gas Powered Machines
OK SOME MORE PHOTOS FOR YOU Pmackyello WE NOW GAVE IT A JET WASH SO YOU CAN SEE MORE OF IT WE GOT THEPUMP OFF AND STRIPPED TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT IT hope this helps -
Interesting. Mine doesn't even have the oil hole for the pull starter. Just edited the first post for better pictures
-
Yes, it's in very nice condition. I have 2 of those
