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Bob V started following Diaphragm Arm Spring
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Does anybody have a carburetor arm spring for a Tiny Tiger 300 that they would sell? Mine has one of the legs broken off. Thanks.....
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Fishnuts2 started following Chip-a-saw
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They did indeed put various paint schemes and decals on the O & R motors. I have one like your first "Chip a Saw", but it is painted red and is a "Paul Bunyan". Also have a couple of the yellow ones like the latter pics.
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I don't remember ever hearing of a Ranger. It's basically the same thing as a Mustang saw except for the chain guard is a little different. We see those minor changes on lots of different tools that have different brand names but are basically the same thing. The recoil/blower housing is a factory replacement. That tan color paint without a label was what the factory sent out. I have a Chip-A-Saw like that one and also another one that looks completely different. Looks like this
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Also, just picked up this “Ranger”. I can’t find much info on this one. Any ideas on the manufacturer?
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I've seen 3/32" tubing also, so that will give me plenty of options. Thanks again @Wallfish!
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Here’s a couple of pics from when I got it. In a few pieces now. Getting things cleaned up.
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Replied to your PM Can you post any pics of your saw?
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3/32" fuel line = 2.3 mm so 2mm will work
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CNew started following Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
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That’s an awesome tiller and in great condition! I’ve had good luck with fuel line designed for RC engines, easier to find the smaller diameter. I’ll try to see if I have any with the packaging that shows the size.
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Good plug, Cleaned the coil and set air gap. No sign of a spark. The dead mans handle appears to be doing its job according to my Fluke Meter, Any advice would be good. Thanks.
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Yeah, aside from a little oil spillage on the tank and exhaust, and some dust, that's how I found it. I'm in my mid-fifties, and I've never seen my father use it. I was afraid someone was going to say that about the diaphragm. Will send PM. Any idea about the inner dimensions on the fuel lines - or at least the one leading to the carb? The other one seems to be about 1/4" and I've got enough spare tubing around here that I can do some trial & error, but I don't have anything as small as that one line. I've seen 2mm/.08" ID tubing on Amazon - does that sound right? Thanks so much! - Joshua
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That thing looks to be a great condition. The diaphragm in the carb will need to be changed. When they get stiff it won't prime or pump fuel. And clean the carb. You can follow the pinned carb tutorial. Shoot me a PM for a diaphragm. Check for spark. If no spark you will need to remove the flywheel then the points cover to clean the contacts on the points. Obviously clean the tank too Yes that's the engine shut down
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Mr Mamba joined the community
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Good to know on the exhaust gaskets. I haven’t pulled the cylinder off yet, so mine might be ok. Do I PM you for the diaphragm?
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Hi everyone - new member here, and very grateful that I found this forum! I found this Derby Tiller Power Hoe in my father's garage, but when I asked him about it, he didn't even remember having it (he's 84.) Obviously hasn't been used in several decades, and was probably only used a few times. The man has saved every manual, from every piece of equipment he's ever owned whether he still has it or not (ask me about the last 3 lawn mowers he had. Doesn't own one now, but he's still got the manuals for the others.) But this one is no where to be found! I've read through the O&R and AEP manuals in the pinned thread and found some similarities of course, but it's the differences that I need the experts help with. I've removed the air filter - foam was intact (until I removed it.) I have new foam to replace it. The sparkplug has been changed. The cord pulls and retracts smoothly, without catching/sticking. The red button on the carb springs back without issue, but it won't prime - the fuel lines are cracked. (I had a fuel leak into the bucket.) It was stored with fuel in the tank as evidenced by the smell when I opened it. I have not removed the cap that is attached to the fuel line. I would have, but it's stuck and I didn't want to break anything...else. There doesn't seem to be a fuel vent like on many of the other motors. UNLESS that's what the tiny cylinder is that's attached to the fuel line, right before the carb. Obviously I want to replace the fuel lines, but I haven't been able to find dimensions to go with the part numbers (38-11?) The line going from one side of the tank to the other is the one with the leak that I've found. And I have no idea what that little cylinder is - or where to get a replacement if necessary. The numbers stamped on the metal plate of the cylinder cover (2nd to last pic) are 13 - B - 400, 8070907 And there's no On-Off switch, so is that tab circled in yellow in the last pic my Kill-Switch? (Spark Plug Short-out Spring) Any help is greatly appreciated and I can take more photos if necessary! Thank you!
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I can help you with a carb diaphragm. Most exhaust gaskets can just be re-used unless they were damaged during disassembly. I can probably find a used set of gaskets
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Fshimek started following Chip-a-saw
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Hello, I recently acquired a Chip-a-saw with a 1hp O&R engine. I am in need of a carb kit, and top and bottom exhaust collector gaskets. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Fred
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Fshimek joined the community
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MrJ451 joined the community
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Got them out ! For anyone with the same deck its not quite as it suggests in the diagram.The bearings are in a tube welded into the deck that has a step in the bore top and bottom to prevent the bearings going in too far.Remove the pulley, give the top of the shaft a good tap (I used big copper hammer) and the shaft comes out through the bottom leaving top bearing in the tube.Press bottom bearing off shaft,then flip deck over and just knock out the top bearing ( I used a length of steel pipe).Luckily whoever was in there last copper greased the tube to death so they didn't put up much of a fight. As Mr Haynes used to say "refitting will be a reversal of the removal process", Press bottom bearing onto shaft, press into tube until bearing hits the step in the bore and then press in top bearing,job done. Bearings are 6205RS 52mm x 25mm x15mm.
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I have a rather rough old Westwood Gazelle that I'm getting going. I need to change the deck spindle bearings but I'm unsure as to how to get the old bearings out. The deck is a sort of hexagon shape there's nothing that undoes or covers that come off and the only way appears to be to use a large "adjustment tool" and knock them out from either the top or bottom ??? There seems to be next to nothing on the internet about this style of deck,the only thing I found is a parts diagram which appears to show them coming out from the top.Suggestions please.
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Help..! Can anyone take on my C-125 and fix it..?
Anglo Traction replied to Martin H's topic in Ride On's
Hello Martin, Only just found your post. Sorry, I'm too far away to help. I may however be able to help with a 6 speed transmission if yours is not repairable. Hope you get it sorted. -
FatherJean joined the community
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AlanJW started following Swan Generating Set
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Just came across this post as I was trying to find info on my Swan generator. Bought it from a guy in Saffron Walden who had owned it for 30 years, not been mucked about at all, clean oil and obviously had very little use. Gave it a general clean up oil change etc. Runs/starts a treat and generates well. Noticed when trying to check the points it has what looks like an electronic points unit fitted. Will be taking it to Rivenhall next weekend. Here it is running. https://youtube.com/shorts/7cjWXooldeY?si=E8kzLnMXEWP44a4- Alan
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Martin H started following Help..! Can anyone take on my C-125 and fix it..?
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OK, it's been a while, my C-125 gave up the ghost and has been sitting in the dry for quite some time. It had gear problems, needs a new exhaust and a thorough check over. Anyone willing to take it on and get it back to working order for a price? I don't have the skills or space to do it myself and my orchard desperately needs some attention.. Hoping for the best, Martin.
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I see this P5 engine is an early one serial number 920 I believe the first digit is year 1959 these went for a couple of years 1960 and 1961 then the P7 started in 1962 with the early version fine finned fan cover like the P5 screwed from the rear.
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2026 Rally Season is upon us; To all readers: Our Trojan 'Toraktor is still missing. To all readers of this forum, DO please keep a look-out for this little tractor. Many mods made by myself when restoring it many years ago so it IS identifiable. Many Thanks to all the readers. Regards, TCS. 01580 211376.
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Back in the day it was Japan stealing the IP and now it's China stealing the IP. I'm sure there are also USA companies that did/do the same
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That makes sense too John, these two companies were bouncing off each other in direct competition. Cheers Tom
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