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  1. Today
  2. David, I bought some UNI brand green filter foam that is 5/8” thick and I can cut out the circles to replace the old filter that has completely disentigrated. Question, the UNI manufacturer recommends oiling the foam for proper filtration. Have you found this to be a good practice even for the O&R engines or should I avoid that step, just looking for a second opinion. Thanks, Clint
  3. Nice, $8 is a good deal. I’ve done business in the past with Abebooks so I’ll have to check them out again as well. Yes, I think you’re correct about the BIN listings, nice catch. I’d prefer to find originals when possible so I may hold off on these for now. Anoying when people don’t specify when they are selling photo copies. Clint
  4. I just went for the cheapest second-hand copy of the 'Small Air Cooled Engines' I could find, I paid around $8 including shipping from a seller in Detroit on Abebooks, a real bargain. Is the Orline stuff the two separate BIN listings? If yes they are photocopies, I did buy those a few years back and an original too (the print on that is poor too). Thanks for your other of help with finding US listings, scans of quite a bit of the literature for UK only O&R tools can be found on the forum too. David
  5. Thanks David! I’m watching a couple eBay listings for the Small Air Cooled Engines manual. I also found a listing for a manual and parts list for an Orline chainsaw that probably has some good info as well. Let me know if there is anything specific you’d like for me to keep an eye out for here in the US and I’ll do my best to let you know if it shows up. Happy to help however I can. Clint
  6. Yesterday
  7. You should have a better chance than me of finding stuff in the US on ebay, as they hide stuff for people outside of whatever country in located in . I have lots of stuff scanned from my collection (some of which has been added to various threads in the O&R section), if your interested in Magazine articles & adverts I could provide a list of titles/editions that can be found on the web for free. The "Small Air Cooled Engines" service manual I have (16th edition published by Intertec) has 10 & a half pages for O&R/AEP out of the 400+ pages, I have a couple of older editions with less in. You should be able to find this book easily on Ebay, Abebooks or Amazon, etc. 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line sounds good. David
  8. factory

    Bearing for ohlsonn 1hp

    If it's stamped Type 222 on the crankcase can you identify which bearing the roller came from (diagram attached) or better still a picture of the bearing & where it's from would help, if you can measure one of the remaining rollers with a Vernier Caliper or Micrometer even better. Where about in the world are you? Webhead or Wallfish may have them if you are in the US or I could help if your in the UK or Europe. David
  9. Generator Joe

    Bearing for ohlsonn 1hp

    Hello. I also have a bearing issue. Have a O and R 222. Taking it apart I lost oneof the roller bearings. There are a total of nine, I have eight and it has a metal cage. Is this something one can acquire? Thank you
  10. Potash123

    Qualcast Auto Drive ?

    Did exactly what I said above, worked a treat. Will be looking for another one with a broken pulley on ebay £££'s.
  11. Stormin

    C-125 Rebuild.

    Checked the bore today and it is within spec. So after a deglaze, the new piston, rings and rod got fitted. The engine is now complete but before I refit it, it'll get painted. There are still some bits and bobs to paint and the bonnet to finish, but the weather is too wet and damp for any more painting.
  12. David, I’m definitely hooked now with these engines, they’re addictive. Do you have any recommendations on specific operator and service manuals or other sources of information for these O&Rs? I saw a reference in another post to the Small Air Cooled Engines manual and I plan to get my hands on one of those as soon as possible. In addition to the engines I enjoy collecting misc advertisements and technical information and thought I would see if you had any suggestions of where I might go looking. By the way, I think I’ve located some 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line. Thanks! Clint
  13. Last week
  14. HeadExam

    Weekend ploughing

    Thank you George. I do not have the 3 coulter/disc wheels that cut the sod and any I have found are 100's of miles away and hundreds of dollars a piece used; which I find unfathomable. I tightened the nuts on the lift handle pivot and that seemed to take care of the hydraulic problem. I also shortened my center link so my tips would not point up, the plow pins are offset to so I don't have to change the draught arms differently and the plow has the ability to tack left or right in case of hitting a hard root or rock. I have stabilisers on both sides and will take some more pictures tomorrow morn. I'm hoping it will be dry enough to put the plow in the dirt later this week. Thanks to all for the advice, I hope to make a decent plow very soon.
  15. David, Thank you very much, that’s exactly what I needed! I’ll check around for this size in Tygon but if that’s not available I will hunt down the Oregon tubing. Clint
  16. Stormin

    Happy Birthday James.

    All the Best, Digger James.
  17. The Fife Plooman

    Weekend ploughing

    Hi Alain check for David Brown Tractor club forum they seem to cover the part about hydraulics quite well this would be your best way forward as far as your plough is concerned do you have discs or skimmers for your plough, if you have fit them. on a starting point with your plough is put it down on level ground adjust the top link until the plough is sitting level. when the plough is level and the ploughshare tip is on the ground and the heel of the plough is on the ground you should be able to put your fingers in a hollow between the two if you cannot your ploughshares are worn, I hope this gets you started I will take pictures on Saturday and post them on line it will give you a better idea Keep well
  18. My local shop doesn't sell Tygon, but the Oregon tubing I have been using from them is 3/32" internal diameter, note the external diameter (3/16") is bigger than the original tubing used by O&R so the original fuel line clamps/clips will no longer fit (I have kept those in case I find something smaller in the future), but the tubing seems secure enough without them. I'm sure the Tygon equivalent will be fine, maybe one of the US members can advise the type/size they use. David
  19. Anglo Traction

    Trojan mk1

    Belated response here Nigel. What a superb job/finish you've done on it . Would've liked to see a 'before' pic to see what you had to start with. Look's mint now .
  20. Anglo Traction

    HALF a HORSE.

    Good work Alan. My workshop's too cold at the mo' and waiting to finish some lathe work. The castings that look like Fire Dogs in the second pic caught my eye . Hope to join you and Norm on here with a contribution soon.
  21. Anglo Traction

    new toy for me

    Another good acquisition. Early version of the Bateman Mfg Co range of Seeders, Planters etc. American. Beginning of the last Century. Later versions had full lid. Chain is what I call a 'cage chain' , flat and rectangular. Should have 57 links?. Your wheel has been fitted the wrong way around. Should have chain drive on the left viewed from behind. A brief history of Bateman Mfg Co There are a few examples of them on utube which will give you some good pointers on them.
  22. rolloman 1

    new toy for me

    good evening all a few pictures of my latest toy a Iron age seeder looks good but missing the link chain pity any ideas hope you like
  23. Picked this MK 25 HS up yesterday, another ebay purchase. Exhaust and flywheel cover missing but for £15...
  24. Just to ensure I get the correct size, what is the recommended fuel line size for these O&R engines? I was planning to get some Tygon line and there are quite a few options.
  25. Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    Another update. The telescopic steering shaft was made from square box section tube, welded to the U/J which in turn plugged into the lower sprocket on the trailer. The inner sliding part was a length of 1/2" square bar filed to a nice sliding fit. This was drilled and threaded then screwed tightly onto the round rod which formed the other half of the shaft. A pin through the square bar and rod made sure nothing moved. A short extra piece was added later to give a bit more bearing surface although probably not needed. A bit of surface rust showing since it's last use. The large threaded hole is a left over from it's last life. The second photo shows it in it's storage position, held in place with the throttle cable. The trailer is disconnected by removing the throttle lever from the steering yoke, one screw, pulling the coupling pin and moving the trailer back which slides the two shaft sections apart. Coupling all together is just as simple. The throttle cable had to be extended to approx twice it's length. Think it was originally fitted to a lawn mower. Couldn't find anything suitable on the internet. The inner was 1mm. Most others found were 1.25 or 1.5mm. I could have opened up the cable slot in the carb piston but decided against this as after a bit of hunting found 1mm inner cable was available from China. A 5 metre length for £1 25 including postage. A 2 metre length of outer sleeve was found in the UK but couldn't find this to match the inner in China. Strange. After careful measurement the inner was cut to length and a short piece of brass tube soldered on one end. The carb top, outer sleeve etc was assembled followed by the lever end nipple being soldered in place. After connecting to the trailer everything was found to operate smoothly and with approx the same amount of movement as the original cable. This photo shows the new inner and brass tube nipple alongside the old.
  26. David, I like the way you think. I’m going to keep it original and see what I can do to fix the stickers and clean up the paint without more of it chipping off. I’ll have to read up on the o-ring/seal fix thread to see if I can somehow improve that issue. Thank you for the additional info on AEP as well. I just missed a Drillgine this past week on eBay and I’ve been kicking myself for not jumping on it. I’m still trying to learn what the value/price scale for some of these tools should be and I still don’t know what constitutes a good deal. Seems the range is quite large. If you haven’t seen it already there is a neat Warn winch O&R on there right now but they’re asking a lot for it (a lot in my book anyway) but it looks new. Clint
  27. HeadExam

    Weekend ploughing

    Thank you George. One problem I had was in the hydraulics, the lift would go up and down, but I could not set it to stop or hold. I believe by tightening the nut on the lift lever has helped that situation, I may need to tighten a little more. The plow would bury itself and stop the tractor when I let the plow into the ground and when I lifted the lever a little it would come out of the ground. I'm not sure how to set the center link on a 3 bottom plow either. I'm running a 54hp David Brown Selectamatic 990 live drive six speed
  28. Personally I would keep it as is with the original paint (it really doesn't look that bad too me & the chrome is good too) and try & reattach the stickers (or get replicas made if they are too damaged), by the way this is the only one I've seen branded as Strikemaster so very rare too, of course it's your choice. I would only consider a repaint if there was very little paint left, as I like them to show their age & originality, something which can't be brought back once repainted. The leaking seals will refer to the rubber crankshaft seals, another common problem with O&R's, original NOS seals are very hard too find but they can be replaced with appropriate size O rings (can't remember if this is mentioned in the 'sticky' engine rebuild thread). The one issue with the later 13B engines (carb arm seal) has already been replaced with older carb parts (see the linked threads). The name changed to AEP around 1975 and there are no later adverts than 1978 (last time I looked), the company was dissolved in 1985. I only have two AEP branded ones in my collection, one is a Drillgine (imported from the US) and the other looks to have been removed from a hedge-trimmer (bought in the UK). David
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