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  1. Last week
  2. If you have the spring but the end is broken, it can be repaired. Do you still have the spring? The pull rope looks brand new so someone was in there Anything beside engine parts is usually difficult to find and come by. Finding partial engines and tools is best. I had to make a base for mine. Not very difficult if you have some basic tools like a way to cut and grind metal. Search around the O&R section as there have been plenty of threads on the TT generators. Here's the recoil repair thread that goes over the spring repair if it's broken. Click on the picture This is just a different style generator head but basically the same thing. Scroll down and you can see the base that was made.
  3. Hi all from Australia. I have been collecting these motors for many years and now have the Chainsaw Generator and a new 3/4hp motor withe reduction box. Am looking to buy the starter spring for a .85hp Generator and the base plate if possible. Thx Sinclair.
  4. Earlier
  5. Just to add to the above, don't forget that you will need to reset the ignition timing when you refit the flywheel.
  6. Thanks again Richard. I don't know why they change numbers!.
  7. Ok, I've just checked the part nbrs for the engine spec you quoted and the 7hp Osprey spec I worked on and the part numbers are identical (was 260609, now 492476). This was the basic crank for that size engine, so may not be so difficult to find one.
  8. Thanks for your message Richard - I hope you are keeping well! A friend did suggest that it might be possible to turn an extension of the crankshaft, but he agrees with you that it would be preferable to find another engine and keep this as a last resort. The engine is to go on the Wolsey rotary cutter which has a large centrifugal clutch, most of which sits on that part of the crankshaft which has been removed by the manufacturer of the lawn tractor.
  9. Hi Ray, I'll keep an eye out on the stock down at the Museum and if anything comes in. Last resort, but could it be possible to turn an extension for the C'shaft?.
  10. Wanted another engine in good working order to replace a 7HP model number 170702 1156-02 76069741? I have a Briggs & Stratton 7HP engine from a lawn tractor which I was hoping to use, but unfortunately the manufacturer of the tractor shortened the crankshaft and turned down a section at the end where the pulleys fit.
  11. I worked for this company in Fleet, Hampshire when I was a teenager-machining and assembling these machines.I would be happy to try to answer any questions.What do you want to know?
  12. Hi Sean, you will be able to get the springs you require from www.briggsbits.co.uk
  13. Hi, new to this site could do with Governor Springs has recently bought old 21 mower. They’re obviously not the original ones. Can anybody help
  14. No words Richard, just
  15. Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis
  16. Hello does anyone know how and where i can purchase the original mantis tiller red paint/enamel or paint code thank you
  17. Hello Derren, Welcome. The Flywheel retaining nut is 'Captive'. To avoid strain to the crankshaft, it is best to use a strap around the outer diameter of the flywheel to prevent rotation while undoing the nut. The nut should be 13/16" A/F. Once it initially loosens, it will tighten again. This is when the nut flange runs against the internal face of the flywheel and further undoing of the nut will force the flywheel off the crankshaft taper. A simple, but effective design and prevents the flywheel jumping off. An example of the torneque method of binding rope around the flywheel with a piece of wood to twist/tighten it and brace against the 'undo' force is shown in an image toward the bottom of the first page of my mower thread here- -LINK- Regards. Richard.
  18. Hi can anyone advise how to remove a brass flywheel from a Villiers 11c engine? New member and new to vintage mower repair too, used them way back in the 70s but never had to repair one until now.
  19. Ok, yours is probably a bit older than mine. It has the square headed lock screw on the base collar to retain the column. There's probably one holding the handwheel on as well. Mine are hex socket grub screws. they are all whitworth form threads. I see you have the upper 3/8" dia spindle section !. It may be worth measuring it and compare it to my given dimension, There should be about 1 1/4" of 3/8" whitworth thread at the top and the nut should be of the Locking type (like an old version of nylock) I'll check my scrap bin again, as it was the top section of the `spindle' that I cut off and used. There is also the stop collar missing which measures 43.4mm x 42.32mm diameter and 3/4" bore, it also acts as a weight to assist feed rate. It all looks salvageable, even welding up the drill holes in the base.
  20. Thank you very much! here are some pictures of the one I am working on.
  21. Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards
  22. Hello John, Sorry for the slow response. The spindle is in 2 pieces, the lower length 7. 1/2" (190mm) x 3/4" dia (19.05mm). The upper section 7. 5/8" ( 193mm) and is 3/8" dia. this upper piece is press fitted into the lower section and pinned with a 1/8" dia dowel. So it would need to be longer to account for the fit overlap if you're making one. The milled keyway, as mentioned was reduced to about 3. 1/2" (89mm) to allow for increased bearing surface in the lower bearing (body casting). The thrust bearing has 2 sections of 1'" dia (25.4mm) x 3/16" (4.75mm) with races machined in both to accommodate 5/32" ball bearings, then hardened/tempered I believe the original chucks were knurled for hand tightening, but mine had been changed/bodged. The colour was made up/matched by myself using good quality enamels. Hope this helps. Regards
  23. My guess is imperial but I’ve been away from things for a while. A bit of Model , Type and Code digging may reveal something as would a bit of probing through the shaft drilling using the two sizes of twist drill as slip gauges may suggest something.
  24. Fortunately, the roll-pin parts remained in place (two in the gear and one on the shaft) but unfortunately the gear teeth have been damaged), so I’ll have to replace it. Also, the legs of the shaft stop had broken (I think I’ve located those parts too), but I’m not sure if the two failures are connected - ie. shaft-stop failure caused or contributed to failure of the roll-pin, or vice-versa. Incidentally, do you know if the roll-pins (gear and clutch-dog) are metric or imperial ? My measurements suggest imperial - 3/16”, but I wondered if they might be 5mm … ? It did cross my mind to replace the gear roll-pin with a spiral type pin to increase durability, so it’s good to know it’s a tried and tested modification.
  25. Just make sure that you can account for every bit of the failed roll pin. If you can’t find all the bits in the sump, take the cam out and flush out the inside of the crankcase over a clean receptacle and hope to find the missing part of rock hard roll pin that will do serious damage if picked up between cam and crank gears or the worm gear and the bronze worm wheel. This is not from the official manual but we used to replace the standard roll pin with a stronger “ spirol” - especially on contractors’ machines. BUT don’t upgrade the pins outside the engine such as in the dog clutch fixings. You need to maintain a weak link and a lot easier to replace.
  26. I removed the worst of the crud with a wire brush before attempting to lift the sump, and the shaft is tapered immediately above the oil seal, so what remained didn’t cause an issue. Anyway, I did manage to remove the sump with some gentle tapping with a mallet. It wasn’t necessary to remove the woodruff key, because the shaft is tapered immediately above the oil seal. I’d already had a look through the 10mm gap and I couldn’t see any obvious reason for resistance, but I did eventually manage to remove the sump with some gentle tapping with a mallet.
  27. Yes definitely. I don't mind the look as long as it's functional.
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