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Zincalo joined the community
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Just thought I'd share this project with you. I've been asked by the Museum Curator where I do volunteer work, to evaluate and recommission this for full working display and demonstration work. I/we have already started on it, and will take some time. The Atco Mower is a post war 17" model, and the steam power unit and boiler were designed and built in early 1994. In the meantime , here are a few images of it- The challenge I have is that it does not comply with current regulations, so I will have to make changes to the drive and boiler fittings. I'll also add some background to it's story, and who built it. Regards.
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About 6 years ago I purchased a Wheel/Tire assembly from Harbor Freight. It was a solid rubber tire with correct diameter and included the bearings in the steel wheel. Cost was about $15. I purchased 2 since the 2nd one was used for the front wheel = looks great match. OK the hard part --- You need to get the correct size sprocket and have it welded onto the Harbor Freight steel wheel. This is exactly what the original manufacture did (Odom Manufacturing maker of Little Petro's). You might have to make the hole in the srocket a bit larger so that the welding only attaches sprocket to hub and allows the wheel to freely spin. Thats what original design is/was. I went nuts and had a special collar machined that was welded to the wheel same as original design but my collar had tapped holes in it so I could replace the sprocket later if needed later. I had the sprocket drilled with matching holes so fasteners held sprocket to special collar. I wouldn't do this again. Expensive. Do what the first part describes above like what Odom Manu did.
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Would anyone know what rear tire and wheel assembly would be needed? I just need the wheel with a sprocket mount or one with it installed already.
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Thank you Richard for your response. I started to grind the raised section on the axle stub and when close to arriving at a level the metal just rolled off. It seems that someone in the past had somehow added a sleeve to the axle stub . The left hand axle stub is parallel to the shoulder and allows the wheel to be fitted. I have managed to source new bearings on E bay . Thank you again for your interest Aldy
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Not familiar with that mower, but have you been successful in removing the remains of the old bearing and race?. The stub axle should be parallel and clean with a shoulder close to the arm to keep the wheel away from the arm. The inner bearing race should be a tight-ish fit on the stub in order to prevent the whole bearing rotating on the stub. Are you able to compare it with the left hand wheel ass'y?, and have you been able to source new bearings?. Your saviour is likely to be John Cruse in Hailsham. Hopefully he can help you with manuals and parts. Here is a link- The Mower Centre Let us know how you get on.
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Hello Can anyone identify this rear axle found on an acquired Hayterette. The right hand stub appears not to allow the wheel access in order to fit the tightening nut stopping at the raised section. I had to butcher the remaining bearing off the stub and have no idea how it was installed Others that I have seen appear to show the stub as being uniform in shape . Would appreciate your thoughts Aldy
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Here's some info on the recoil. Click on the picture Heat the spring cherry red only at the bend and it will bend without any cracks or cracking off. You can find diagrams in the manual section.. Scroll down to 1965. The only thing different may be the shape on the end of the crankshaft.
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I have an old Orline Chainsaw model 149 with a O&R type 236 engine. does anyone have any exploded views/parts lists for this engine. Its almost running however I broke the recoil spring. luckily just at the center where it enters the cord hub. everything I've tried works for about 4 to 5 pulls then separates and won't retract. is there a tip or trick? is there a modern spring that will work?? any help would be appreciated. thank you.
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What threads are used on the model please, thank you.
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Hi all we have a Wolsey Clearway that we have acquired if we can fix it, sorted a few issues but it revs its nuts off, evidently someone has messed around with the governer springs etc and broken them. has anyone got any photos of the springs and rods in the correct locations its got a Briggs & Stratton Model: 243432 Type: 1141-01 10 HP horizontal-shaft Briggs
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Hello I am restoring a hayterette and with hindsight took few photos when dismantling. Can anyone tell me how the rotating screen is attached to the fly wheel. The three screw holes in the screen don't line up with the flywheel screws although there are cut outs on the screen.Also there are 4 screw holes on the top of the housing that don't appear to have any purpose. I would appreciate your thoughts Aldy
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Hi Robbie I have a 420 and a 425 great machines. Does your machine have an electric clutch mounted on the end of the crank with a belt going down to the pulley shown in your photos? Take a photo under the bonnet and add it to your post this will show if it is a clutch or drive that relies on belt tension.
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Looks like a fun project and actually usable when you get it running. You might consider a boot for the spark plug wire however!
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Check the air filter for old foam and remove it if there is some or will get sucked into the carb and engine. You'll need a carb diaphragm. Probably a tank clean and change the fuel lines. If it doesn't have spark you will need to clean the points contacts. It's under the flywheel and you will see the cover. Putting a few drops of old school DOT brake fluid on the crank seals will usually swell them enough to seal without the need to dis-assemble the entire engine to replace seals. A leak down test can be done by removing the muffler and attaching a blown up party balloon to the exhaust collector. The piston should be at TDC and the spark plug in place. You will hear the air hiss out through any seals that are not sealing enough as the balloon pushes air into the crank case. Even new seals will leak air but just a little. Mix oil and fuel at 32:1 with a good quality modern 2 stroke oil designed for air cooled engines. Outboard oil ashes off different and shouldn't be used.
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New to me and looking forward to getting it going. Have sheds full of bigger heavier engines and have never really played with something this small. Have chased up wallfish for diaphragm and bits so we will see how we go.
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New Addition- Hayter Osprey 21- work required
Anglo Traction replied to Brewerer's topic in Pedestrian Operated Machines
Welcome to Myoldmachine, Not so busy on here, but has a wealth of info available. You may not have seen it, but there is a lengthy Topic on the Osprey etc in the 'Other Garden Machines' section, should you need any help. Yours looks in reasonable condition. If you need a manual, look in the righthand column for 'Files'. -
See below photo of my impulse purchase from eBay this week. I’ve managed to get it started in the first instance having had the flywheel off and cleaning points and setting gaps on coil and plug. Unfortunately the cutting disc has been replaced with a disc of aluminium chequerplate, would be nice to have an original to feel a little more secure there! Pulley appears to spin freely, and although I’ve taken the drive belt off for now, I don’t expect any issue. The clutch and drive however I expect to need a good thorough investigation. I only really bought it to serve as an intermediate, and if at a loss, I could use the engine on the Hayterette (which the engine has seen better days).
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Hello there Long shot, but does anyone have a Martin Markham Colt manual? Regards, Darren
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Mity Moe Duster/Fogger by Buffalo Turbine
Mike in NC replied to Wallfish's topic in Ohlsson and Rice
Where did you come up with the decals of the fogger? My wife got one last month and it had been glass beaded and left bare metal. They did not do anything to the engine, it is still red. I would like to paint it and put new decals on it. Do you know the correct color for the red on the handle and the white on the fogger shell? Also, what is behind the handle bar on the side of the fogger? is it a serial number tag? Thank you for any help! -
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The piece of spring steel arrived yesterday. I will let you know how I make out with it. Thank You..!!
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Thank you John...
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I'll get a piece out to you Yes that's the same but mine is a repop that I built a few years ago. $1500 + is too steep for little collectables. Here's a link of the thread.
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Hi John, Well my feeler gauge experiment was a failure. The material probably has too much tension. It would not prime and would not run, so I assume it is putting too much pressure on the ball. If you can send me a piece of the material that you used, I would sure appreciate it. I don't know if you are a fan of Bring a Trailer, but I visit the site occasionally to look at all the vintage cars, motorcycles, mini bikes and go kart of yesteryear. I saw this micro-power micro-bike. Is this the same type that you have or had? I posted a link below. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/micro-power-micro-bike/ Thanks, Bob
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My Wife's Newest Addition (Duster/Fogger)
Wallfish replied to Mike in NC's topic in Ohlsson and Rice
The 20A engine is bigger than the Compact engines are but I'm not sure if the size of the fogger part itself is different. -
STOLEN TROJAN 'Toraktor'; My Trojan Toraktor circa 1957 is STILL MISSING. PLEASE keep an eye out for it when visiting shows etc this summer. I can identify it due to the mods I made when restoring it. Any info to: Tim@Permanden.co.uk Many Thanks. TCS.
