-
All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Last week
-
-
-
-
-
Very cool, great addition to the collection. I was just thinking the other day that things have been a little quiet on here for O&R finds. I’m certainly not having a lot of luck finding any these days. Glad you landed that little generator!
-
-
That's a nice find. Cool little generators It's either a Dyna-Mite or a Life sav r
-
I watched a video on Youtube today re a non starting Honda push mower. The video seemed good so I thought. He removed the carb and cleaned out the main jet. All sprayed with carb cleaner and put back together. There was no mention of an Idle Jet or pilot jet ? Are they fitted to Honda's. Thanks.
-
Here is the newest addition to her O&R collection. It has a 12VDC port, a 120VDC, and a 120VAC outlet. We bought this from a friend.
-
Anyone interested in this motorized skateboard.
In addition there is also a number of spare parts (see photo)
-
Tried a 3" bolt as Davey suggested would not budge. Back to square one.
- Earlier
-
Are Honda engines suitable for a Hayterette body, I have used B&S in the past. Thanks
-
Thank you.
-
I got some 3" high tensile ones off ebay, just to be sure, probably could have got away with a 2" one in hindsight. Best of luck!
-
Will go through all my nuts and bolts in search of one. Thanks for reply.
-
Thanks, will give that a try at the weekend & see if it is seating correctly. I have had a look at the mixture screw & the manual recommended between 3/4-1 turn out from fully closed which is where I’ve set it. When I first stripped the carb off I probably should have paid more attention to these things but done it rather hastily regrettably for me now. planning on doing a more thorough strip down of it all this weekend so can update once I’ve done so. thanks again
-
To test the needle and seat, try blowing through it with the the needle held against the seat. Another thought, does the carb have a mixture or air bleed screw? Someone could have been 'twiddling' in the past...
-
Morning Matt, Thanks for the tips. I think it has potentially been played with previously but not beyond the carb & fuel tank. Everything engine wise looks original, even the pull start surprisingly. So I had a little play this weekend & dropping a small bit of petrol in the cylinder before starting got it running but then it cuts out after probably 2-3 seconds which leads me to think it is being starved of fuel. I've had the carb apart & everything looks ok. Float... floats & main jet is clear although I don't know if they are working together. Point on float looks ok but I don't really know how you would identify if this is too worn. Was hoping to find a better design replacement carb but looking pretty difficult to find one with the 10-4 bolt layout along with dimensions. Also thanks for the info on the filter. It is a foam one so I'm guessing someone maybe got a bit keen on the oil in it.
-
Apart from taking one to bits 40+ years ago I've no experience with the Suffolk engine but in general terms I would check the following. Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs/you've already tried it! Are the points clean and gapped correctly? Likewise the spark plug. Is the float height correct and the needle valve free from dirt and not badly worn? Float not holed and full of petrol (by which I mean it shouldn't be!) Not sure what type of air filter these have, if it's a foam or wire element then it SHOULD be moist (not soaking) with oil. Again, not sure of the set up but is the ignition timing correct? Is it possible someone has previously been 'playing' with it to try to get it running?
-
-
I've finally got around to updating this thread, and this post should bring it up to date. We fitted up the steering bars and pulled the engine over, however it wasn't getting any fuel through. We ended up pulling all of the steering and bonnet off again took most of the fuel system apart, cleaned it all out and reassembled the engine. There was no obvious blockages, however when we pulled the engine over again it pulled fuel through nicely. We then gave it a proper pull, and it went. The Landmaster now runs pretty nicely, it's quite loud, and the swapped pulley makes it scary to drive in 2nd gear but it is entirely functional now. Heres a link to one of my latest videos where we got the Landmaster running: We have had the tractor out since this video and it produced a plume of smoke, which smelt heavily of burning rubber so I think one of our new belts slipped a bit, so we need to look into that again. We are also looking into getting the correct size pulley to make the machine nicer to use, it is too quick for grass cutting at the moment. Heres a couple more pictures of the tractor in its current state: Thanks for reading, Joseph
-
Hi all, found the forum while googling start issues with my recently purchased rotovator. It's an old thing but I don't need one for long. I intend to use it as needed & then clean up & sell on. I bought it as a non runner & struggling to get it going. I think it's a carb issue but unsure. I believe it's the Suffolk 98G 14 3H engine but this is based on a copy of the manual I found online & what others have said (along with comparing to images of the engine) It has an aftermarket fuel tank but other than that all looks fairly original. But I'm basically wondering if there is a new Carburetor that can replace the old one. The only old ones available I can find are second hand & listed for the same price as I paid for the rotovator. I don't see anything standing out on the carb that is "wrong" but the air filter seemed to be sodden with oil/petrol. I had tried easy start & the engine kicks but doesn't run. Petrol seems to flood the carb but the float is in working condition. Just unsure what I could do with the current carb that could resolve issues (if it is the issue) The main jet appears to be clear. There is what looks like a jet down the side of the float bowl that is blocked, it has been damaged previously so I can't get it out. Looking at the manual though nothing in this area is specified so I'm wondering if it is actually just a plug & maybe the it's needed for a different application. Would appreciate any feedback & if I've missed anything that may be valuable info to help just let me know & I'll try answer. I don't have a compression tester to do a test but covering the spark plug hole & turning it over you can definitely feel a decent build up of pressure (obviously not a very technical or accurate way to do it) I've attached the manual I found for info. Cheers Qualcast Cultimatic Super Manual.pdf
-
Hayterette discs are threaded with 7/16s unf. The bolt that holds the disc on is a smaller diameter of 3/8. This means that if you get a long 7/16 unf bolt (about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long) and wind it into the disc it will draw the disc off the shaft. I know this as I did 2 only yesterday, an early 70s 3.5hp one that had never been off and an early 80s 3hp one. They came off quite easily. The only drama I had was that I had to run a 7/16 bottoming tap through both discs quickly as the beginning of the thread was slightly fouled on each
-
Hot water or carefully use a heat gun.
-
I have a copy of the Instruction Book and Spare Parts for this model. Any use to anyone in UK.
-
-
Not over interested in the engine however very impressed with the dedication to re invent the design and quality of your work. I manufacture many special parts for the Ransomes MG and also the Triumph TR range of cars. Well done.
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
There is no benefit to making an OHV version of the Suffolk punch engine but it makes a challenging project and if you like to see exposed valve gear at work it adds a bit of old fashioned spice. The design is reversible so the engine can be returned to its original state if you wish. This is going to be my last post about Suffolk punch mowers as I don’t think anyone is interested. The project is fully designed with detailed drawings of all the parts but I have snipped out just one extract so you can get an idea of how it goes together. If anyone wants the full set of drawings I would be happy to put a copy in the files section.
-
My early Hayterette has probably never had its disc removed. I have used my normal tactics of drilling three holes close to the boss and using my three pronged puller, no joy. Tried heat, no joy. Now have it soaking in WD40 for how long I wonder. Has anyone else got any tips on removal. We all know how much the new disc costs. thank you.
-
Hi legends,
Newbie here, today I scored what I believe to be a versatiller in pretty rough shape, but wouldn't mind trying to get it going. At the moment I'm trying to figure out what motor it is running. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers mark
-
-
Hello all, i recently acquired a Danarm DDA 110 Chainsaw and i would like to restore it as close to original as possible but i am struggling to find a paint that is similar enough for it for the black and the yellow. Can anyone help? many thanks
-
-
Nice, let me know if you need that one I PMed you about. I have diaphragms too.
