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Hi legends,
Newbie here, today I scored what I believe to be a versatiller in pretty rough shape, but wouldn't mind trying to get it going. At the moment I'm trying to figure out what motor it is running. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers mark
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Hello all, i recently acquired a Danarm DDA 110 Chainsaw and i would like to restore it as close to original as possible but i am struggling to find a paint that is similar enough for it for the black and the yellow. Can anyone help? many thanks
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Nice, let me know if you need that one I PMed you about. I have diaphragms too.
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I repaired the recoil, cleaned and gapped the points, repaired the spark plug wire and put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up. I forgot to plug in a drop light but I will tomorrow as I ran out of time. I will need a diaphragm carb kit, its stiff and dried out. B ut all the parts are there. Except of course the main jet.I don't think I need a reed valve.
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Sorry I’m late to the party, was on business travel. I’ll take a look around my parts as well to see if I have any of the pieces. FYI- in case you do need all the gaskets and plastic reed valve: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114847057767?_skw=ohlsson+rice+carburetor&itmmeta=01JNE803DJR4Q3T4XPX1KT1QZM&hash=item1abd6b0767:g:1zoAAOSwIGhgOwOk&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dQEOAC8QS1PfgADOOmUESYpF9BxHQioV10rfLg2aaBMCzLA51Tto4yDb6lZYdpJhMkxTynFCveVe3jM%2BM61xpIQn%2FfX1t26oOyYpH2nQZUGf0Zu5x38Yso4pXGrt7OK7ftKvO9WvzqDNyEdfpzcoi6x8eea9aS9Mo3BAHG0Ml4qwsWfOS18mifIP2xeZTK6L2pHMrGpsij1qn2%2FBsOA%2F8ZKJy2sOHz8uaPJrepLkZoEZVc92prp8RrZUl0gR7uKmlPcZbjZ96UFg76N8Vvlud--BPd8VTF%2FGc2036oAcN4LQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4S3gMirZQ
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Found a housing and a needle ( #21, 25 ) but not the little parts, washer, o ring or spring ( 22, 23, 24 ). You can get those at any good hardware store or find something online Did you ever open the carb to make sure the other parts are there? Someone lost the valve so you should check EVERYTHING to make sure you don't need anything else. You can do everything else on your engine like cleaning the points if it doesn't have spark now, fix the recoil (DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVET), etc etc. Fire it up with a squirt of 32:1 mixed fuel to verify it's a running engine. And you can also check the generator when it fires off too. If it doesn't run or generate power, does taking my last valve make sense? Your welcome to it if you need it!
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Hello Wallfish, Any luck finding a needle valve assembly.
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You need the gasket, the plastic check valve, the complete needle valve. Probably a diaphragm Have you opened up the cover to see if any other parts are missing in there? Arm, spring, bearing ball? I'll take a look around to see if I have a complete valve,
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Here's some pics.
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Are you referring to the actual needle valve? Some of the older engines had a smaller needle valve on the side of the carb and a screw which holds the diaphragm assembly to the lower carb body. Newer models have the the needle holding the diaphragm assembly to the carb body. Maybe a pic would help determine what carb you have and what you're missing.
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O&R 0.85hp (tiny tiger) - Carburetor parts? Coil refurb?
Mitch replied to Morrisoft's topic in Ohlsson and Rice
Hi, New to the forum and I am trying to restore my Tiny Tiger.. The problem I have is the carb needs a kit and is missing the high speed jet. I would like to purchase those if anyone has any for sale. Or maybe even a carb. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and looking forward to have fun restoring my Tiny Tiger Generator. The first thing I did was to degrease it and found that I am missing the carburetor jet. I was wondering if I could purchase that and a kit for the carburetor. Or if anyone knows where I could purchase a carb.
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6 months later now, and we have finally made some notable progress on the Landmaster. I might not fit all of our progress into this update, we shall see because there is quite a lot to cover. Paul kindly lent us his Landmaster so that we could see what had been modified on ours in the past, which has proven very useful and has uncovered things that we wouldn't have spotted without a similar machine next to ours. The first thing that we noticed was that our front axle was upside down. There is an arch shape in the centre of the axle on one side, which should point upwards. Previously our front axle had been scraping the grille when the axle pivoted, however with the axle flipped over it now has much more space to pivot. You can see the scrape marks in the picture below, and the amount of space gained from flipping the axle over Something else we noticed was that our machine appeared to have its clutch set up wrong. It was set up such that when the clutch pedal is pushed down, an idler pulley is moved away from the drive belt, removing tension from the drive belt and allowing it to slip on the engine pulley. However, from comparing to Pauls machine, we know that the clutch should be set up as a 'push to drive' pedal, where the belt sits on the other side of the idler pulley and when the pedal is pressed down, it tensions the drive belt and drive is provided the gearbox. We have now made this change, which required a slightly longer belt, so it is now up to an A45 belt. Another modification on our machine is that it doesn't have the cast engine pulley that it would have had from the factory. That has been replaced by a pair of taper lock pulleys, which are larger than the original pulley. The deck pulley is only 1/8" larger in diameter, whereas the drive pulley is 1" larger in diameter. This is not too much of a problem, as the pulleys seem to work with the size of belts that we have now We took off the rear fender to get better access to the brake band and the gearbox to make some adjustments. The gear selectors felt stiff, and it was difficult to tell when a gear had been engaged. All it took to sort this was a bit of oil in the 2 oiling points, and both selectors moved smoothly, with a clear difference between each position on the selector. The brake band just needed tightening a bit, and now functions as it should do. Finally for this update, we tackled the handlebars, which had been cut and rewelded at a different angle by a previous owner. Having removed the handlebars, we cut around one of the welds and managed to separate the handlebars into 2 parts We cleaned up the welding on the T-junction, which was pretty messy and rewelded the handlebars in the same position as Pauls Landmaster. Quite a while was spent with the angle grinder making the joins as smooth as possible, and we sprayed it with some zinc galvanising paint. Ignore the pile of Kohlers waiting to be put to use in the background We have made even further progress, but that'll have to wait for another day as my wake up time for sixth form starts with a 5. Joseph
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Hi have purchased a newer push on Hayterette and although tank had fuel this has drained presumably due to the carburettor fuel bowl drain bolt not being sufficiently tightened. Can anyone tell me if this should have a cork gasket . The fuel bowl does have what looks like a rubber gasket in place where it attaches to the carburettor. Many thanks
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My 1978/79 Wheelhorse C121 . Lucky enough to have bought this a few years ago from the original owner who bought it new . She runs as good as it looks after a carb clean , valve clearance set ,new plug and points along with timing checked .
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C121
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Looking for a 36” deck for C series Wheel horse garden tractor , deck must be rot free . Deck is for my dad .
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My 1957 Trojan 'Toraktor' is still missing. See pic. Any info to; Tim (at) Permanden co.uk or 01580 211376. Many Thanks, TCS.
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My Trojan 'Toraktor' circa 1957,, is still missing. See picabove. Any info ot sightings to; Tim (at) Permanden.co.uk. Many Thanks. TCS.
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Back in 2006 having a couple of slightly smoky Suffolk Punch 75G iron engines one with worn bore and the other with some internal corrosion of the bore I decided to challenge myself to rebore one of the engines. The engine has been running since 2006 and compression is still excellent and no smoke at all. The project was made more difficult by not at the time being able to find an oversize piston or even just oversize rings. I researched other options and eventually found a set of suitable rings which were suitable for a 52mm bore. I have attached a few images, no explanation as I am guessing that anyone who wants to do this probably does not need an explanation? Very important to get the gudgeon pin at 90 degrees to the cylinder. Suffolk punch pistons are not cam ground but they do need to be tapered. I hope someone with one of these engines finds this of interest. You need a lathe with a minimum of 9" swing
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O&R 0.85hp (tiny tiger) - Carburetor parts? Coil refurb?
RandyC replied to Morrisoft's topic in Ohlsson and Rice
I have one that someone made. I am not sure how well it will work yet. I am at 101 N. Sigler Street, Kingwood, West Virginia 26537. Let me know how much you want for whatever you can find. Thank you so much! -
Due to me not knowing anything about these machines, I was thinking of selling it sold as seen. I'll try and find someone to have a look at it as see if it works
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What you can sell it for is basically dependant upon its condition, i.e. will the engine run, is the gearbox in working order, is the clutch in working order and do all other moving parts move freely. If the engine is in good working order I would be interested in buying it for the engine as I have been looking for a replacement. Given the time it has been standing you will need to ensure that the engine is not seised and preferably do an oil change before trying to start it.
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I will post a picture when I can get back down there
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Thank you very much for the information. I"m not sure it will start after all these years, but I'd like to sell it, I'm in the Oxford UK, do you know how much I might sell it for please?
