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  1. Yesterday
  2. X2 for a pic of the flywheel - straight on with the retaining nut in the middle. Possibly there will be 2 or 3 small threaded holes spaced around the nut into which screws from a puller will engage. Probably no need to buy a puller as one can be made using a bit of scrap steel and basic hand tools. I would have thought that those Echos would have electronic ignition so is there any need to pull the flywheels - but perhaps not. EDIT. Just found a micro fiche of the SRM 200da and it shows points and a condenser , so you could well need to make or obtain a puller.
  3. That's one beautiful looking piece of machinery. Here's hoping you can get it running, then all you'll need is a period mower to push.
  4. A photo of the flywheel would help, then we might come up with some ideas.
  5. Would that be the White Oak Alain?. I know you have several varieties there, just wondered also what type of disease has it suffered from?. Most English Oaks only seem to be (rarely) affected by Honey Fungus, or partial 'die back'.
  6. Well, those of you who have been watching this have seen glimpses of bits that don't really mean much. So I have decided to let you know what this thing is, despite having a fair way to go before (if) any mechanical life can be breathed into it. It's 90% there, but still have the drive chain hurdle to overcome. So bearing in mind that it's nothing really spectacular, it is uncommon. This is what it is - This ad is from the Tatler Magazine of Aug 1922. I have other images, but are copyrighted and not for public use. Designed to provide assisted (Ride-on) power to existing, manually pushed lawnmowers at the time. So it can be called the first known British Ride-on that was available to the average domestic household. Earlier large private Estate/Municiple ride-ons were available. They were built by Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies for the MP Co. At the start of this Topic, I mentioned the condition and it's neglected existence, albeit virtually complete. This is what it looked like- Not my pics, but shows it was in a bad state. It's debatable whether to replace some damaged/missing parts like the (left) lower end section of the Fan cover- I suppose it is really part of it's existence, hard knocks 'n' all. What I have found strange, is the varying immunity of certain sections to corrosion. Some very thin metal sheet parts are hardly eroded, but heavier, thicker spring steels are heavily pitted?. All exposed to the same levels of weather. Suppose it's lucky to be able to save/use most of it. Today, I've made up the Cables for Carb controls. Tricky job and I decided to set it up in a way that would be easier to manage. Bolted the Carb to my Lathe tail stock barrel and the Levers to a bar in the Chuck- The inner cables were different length from a donor source and I had make them both the same length and produce new outer bowden cables. Lots of careful measuring, as the 1926 Carb manual says never dismantle the Lever and cables !!. I had no choice. So with a lot of cleaning to get the solder to take on the shortened inner cable, all the ends soldered up and the bits fitted correctly- And relieved to say everything operates/adjusts correctly - Most of the control levers were in a bad state as mentioned way back and showed the end result, but here are a few of what they were like- ...... the Counter shaft - So here is what it looked like as assembly progressed- And to date- If I can get it running, it will be one of only a handful of working examples in collector's hands. Hope to have more updates soon
  7. Well I've found a service bulletin that confirms the correct number of turns for winding the starter spring on the 13B & 20A Series engines is 1 to 1½ turns only. It also gives starter rope length as 33" for these engines. David
  8. Well done Ray . Earned your stripes on the refurb. You're one up on me, as you've done a Hydro, which I haven't !. Now you can enjoy it !!. Regards
  9. Cracking job, what colour did you go for? Mine is at the very early stages, just ordered the primer and throwing stuff in the electrolysis tank!
  10. Four Candles

    Four Candles

  11. Hello to All, I've had a look at a few lawnmower and machinery sites and this is a really good one so I have joined up. There is a great variety of machinery and tools and this site is a lot less formal than others. I have quite a few projects on the go. I have six Echo SRM200da strimmer's and wondered if anyone knows where I can get a flywheel puller for these. I know I can get one from the US but the postage is high so thought I would try here first. Cheers
  12. Simple answer, a broken con-rod will be guaranteed as below. And as the Petro Drill has an early engine, the plastic bearing cages may suffer too. I've only had one engine where I couldn't free the piston easily, but I determined a previous owner had already broken the con-rod by removing the induction section & reed valve to have a look first. As the cylinder used a 14mm spark-plug I was able to press the piston out without further damage (don't try this with a 10mm spark-plug cylinder, a holey piston will result). Here is the piston & cylinder from that engine, the rings are still frozen on. David
  13. What will happen if the piston is frozen and they try to unscrew the head? I have an engine that has a frozen piston and I’ve had is soaking for a couple months now in Kroil and it’s not budging.
  14. I'd have cut it down for free and taken it away. Interesting to see how he cut through the trunk. We cut out a gob (notch) on the side we want the tree to fall, then cut across the back.
  15. Checking is relatively simple but if they need adjusting it gets more complicated as reduced clearances are increased by grinding metal from the end of the valve stems . The worst case of a loose valve seat probably requires the rear body work to be removed to give decent access.
  16. A great job and photos. Did you spray or handpaint the engine?
  17. I have finally finished refurbishing my C 160 Automatic and mowing deck. The paintwork is not up to show standard but it shouldn't rust and it is intended to be a 'working tractor'. IU am no engineer and the whole project has bee a steep learning curve for me, having never sprayed or completely dismantled a machine before. If I ever attempt another it should be like shelling peas as I think I must have already encountered 90% of potential problems. I'm still working on the photography/uploading - the last photo should be the first.
  18. My neighbour would have bought the tree and cut it down and taken it away, but it would have been a BIT TOO FAR Away!!!
  19. Thanks I will add it to the todo list :-)
  20. Is it as easy as checking valve clearance on a classic mini with feeler gauges? Purchased a running Lawnflite 504 mower without cutting deck for £50 so should be sorted soon :-)
  21. Greetings from Australia, Nigel I have just come across this fantastic record. It's probably the best and most complete record of the workings of a Mayfield Merlin made publically available. Brilliant! ------------------------------------------ Jack
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