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  2. Good idea, I've got a similar can I kept for eventually using with the test stand. David
  3. I don't think that is anything to do with O&R engines, the Series 20A has a one piece crankshaft, no chance of fitting that. I thought I had uploaded the 20A manual. David
  4. Today
  5. hi i just got a qualcast cultimatic deluxe rotorvator and it in need of a muffler/exhaust and its 4hp engine model numb is 100235 /type 056401-code 78063208 can any body help with wich muffler i need i looked but it seems to me its a square type bolt on but not sure or is there any other ones that will fit b&s engine would be great full of any help thanks
  6. Winch ITW has now gone, dumper is advertised lots of interest in other machines and most spares have now gone. I have virtually met lots of very nice people it is very pleasing to help so many machines to come back to life.
  7. Anyone know what type of O&R engine uses these large, beefy pistons and connecting rods? I’ve never opened up a 20A, is that what this is for?
  8. Decided to make me a little fuel can for priming after a full carburetor rebuild. This has a nice little pump on it.
  9. Interesting, not at all what I expected that to look like.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Sold. Just sent you a PM Or you can reach me by email at uremailing@yahoo.com
  12. $175 as is. It is marked L Los Angeles fire department LA FDI got it from a fireman
  13. I'm interested in it and you don't have to get it running! I know how to do that Please don't squirt starting fluid in it. These are 2 strokes and need the oil in the fuel and ether will most certainly run the cylinder dry.
  14. Bought this one a while back. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Engine-Kill-On-Off-Switch-Button-3-Wire-Go-Kart-Fun-Cart-Mini-Bike/193149454466?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Originally I thought they just had one light because of Webhead's and his pics. Just waiting to see how close I can get it now before adding more stuff but those lights are fairly cheap. One thing I haven't been able to find is those exact rise type foot pegs. I have some folding foot pegs but they don't have that riser bracket. Got the feeling that's something which has to be made but think it's figured out. It seemed to look right when I was working on it and holding it up to eyeball the scale but looking at the pics after posting them, I need to adjust that frame. The seat is too high from the top of the engine and the seat sits back too far past the rear wheel axle. Think I can cut and lower the front forks about an inch which will take out some of that lower frame rail rise from the back to the front and make it more level to the ground. It doesn't need to be all the way level but that should bring it closer to the way the original is. It'll also move the seat forward, make the engine more plumb and move the fender location closer to the tire. Then the frame will need a little more tweaking the bend to level off the seat since lowering the front will tilt it forward. He He He, Steep hill and no net. Catching net that is as you will certainly be "on the NET."
  15. Here's a picture of the inside, looks like Hazmat to me, lots of chucks of rust fell out too. I'm not sure why all the plated steel parts have rusted so badly on this engine (see the threads on the end of the exhaust fixing rod for example), as the paintwork is in excellent condition and the engine looks to have had very little use before it seized. David
  16. If your planing to sell the fan once you've got it running then I'm sure there will be plenty of interest from the collectors on here. David
  17. The tank on your Drillgine seems to have the missing part from the second line of the Orion decal. Looking a couple of decals & piecing together the surviving parts, I think this it the full decal (not 100% sure on Associates); ORION MANUFACTURING CO. Div. of Orion Associates Inc. 14873 E. FIRESTONE BLVD. LA MIRADA CALIF. Searching for 14873 E. FIRESTONE BLVD.* gives an extra magazine article (from Popular Mechanics Oct 1963) for the sticky thread; https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=CeMDAAAAMBAJ&pg==PP1&lr&pg=PA163#v=onepage&q&f=false It's also in the April 1962 Popular Science; https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=LCEDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&lr&pg=PA32#v=onepage&q&f=false Two models were available with the 1360 r.p.m. version having a 3/8" chuck & the 620 r.p.m. having a 1/2" chuck. David *And another area of cleared land on google earth.
  18. I don't have liquid tape but as I also collect & repair vintage electronics I have a box full of various different sized heat-shrink tubing, I used a piece of 3:1 or 4:1 ratio heat-shrink tubing that just fits over the crimp terminal, thinking about it I could have removed the terminal & used smaller diameter heat-shrink, got to remind myself I have a good supply of ring crimp terminals I could have used. David
  19. Daren 89: I would like to receive the electronic copy of the White Heat X plans. Can you let us know when you have them prepared? Thanks!
  20. Well what I do is buy and sell antiques and I got this with some lighting etc . I'm a little handy so I've been trying to get it running. I shot a little starting fluid past the air cleaner and it puttered
  21. My first O & R chainsaw project had the same wire pinch with corresponding results. I used liquid tape and routed it properly.
  22. Here is an enlarged picture of my tank.
  23. You have no change winning that race That's coming out great when you get done you can made me one . very nice PS. I don't have brakes
  24. We could change it to something like "portable ventilation fan" if you want, I'm sure these portable fans could have been used for lots of things such as ventilation, cooling, etc. David
  25. If you’re not trying to make an exact replica I think cyclops would actually look pretty cool! It’s a little hard to see in the original photo but the red button stop switch looks very similar to the stop switches used on the Tanaka 1.2 and 3 hp outboards. I found one on eBay when I was fixing the TAS auger - perfect match. Kind of like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TANAKA-30806-button-kill-stop-switch-Moby-Powerboard-PBSE-802-803-TPB350GX-400GX/123725842165?epid=6017773785&hash=item1ccea286f5:g:hhcAAOSwv~layqbU
  26. David, Thanks, I didn’t actually mean fighting fire with a fan but your description For how it might be used makes a lot of sense and would be a great application for a portable, hand powered fan. Should we change the title of the post for my fan? I just indicated manhole fan because that’s what the seller claimed it was. Maybe a more generic title like Ventilation fan would be more appropriate as I’m sure people probably used these in various ways for ventilation purposes.
  27. It does turn over fine, I have noticed in a certain position the end play you normally get with the shafts disappears, I put a used PTO shaft in the engine, but have now noticed the counter weight of the only NOS one that came with these parts is very slightly thinner than the older ones. I had a quick look inside another late engine with that type of feather valve assembly and noticed there also seems to be a slight difference in how far they bored out the crankcase for the feather valve. David.
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