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  1. Past hour
  2. The A20 is perfect for the Briggs engine on the Flymo DM, but the Suffolk needs a slightly longer belt
  3. Barney Lee is on a charity walk round Britain's coast line. You can read all about it on his website. https://barneylee.co.uk/ Tomorrow morning he starts out from Silloth on Solway and I'll be meeting him, somewhere between Cardurnock and Brough by Sands, on the Solway Coast. I'll then bring him home to spend the night with Carol and I. In the morning, I'll return him to where I picked him up and from there he will continue his walk.
  4. John I still need to complete quite a few unfinished projects here, before I make a start on that nice trimmer (or take anything else apart), maybe I should add some pictures anyway. Nice find with the manual and EP Barrus advert, I seem to have the matching "illustrated literature" for that Orline hedgetrimmer. David
  5. Today
  6. Got him one putting with the bearings he needed
  7. I’ll dig through some stuff later this evening and see if I might have a spare push rod.
  8. Alan

    Winter Project

    My thoughts as well. Would be less of a trap with the edge turned inwards.
  9. Hi Fix'em all, Nice machine there. I bought two belts, the first one from fleabay which, although the correct size, didn't allow the clutch to operate very well (F&F A540/A20). I then bought a belt from Simply Bearings in Leigh Lancashire which is a cotton dry cover Kevlar reinforced mower wrapped V-belt. Model number is DRYB-4L-K-220/XDV. The clutch now works perfectly and has made a real difference.
  10. I think it’s the strengthening piece of trim they put along the edge, it’s upside down and it’s a water trap. They all seem to rust in the same place.
  11. I restored mine in 2018. Which drive belt did you use. I found the A20.5 is a perfect fit for the Gemini.
  12. Do any of you have a spare little push rod for the points that you would be willing to get rid of mine broke during disassembly, if not can I make a new one if so how
  13. And does anyone have a points pushrod that they are looking to get rid of
  14. Yesterday
  15. Should work well! my lawn ranger hood is rusted in the same places, not as bad but will have to sort it out some time!
  16. Hey David @factory that reminds me, you never posted anything about that old cool hedge trimmer I sent to you. Have you done anything with that yet?
  17. Awesome, yea they are the shorter wider needles
  18. Added these to the O&R literature collection... The manual came from Alan Rogers at the Tractor World show last weekend, the advert from ebay.
  19. Hello, I answered on your restoration post regarding the barrow, yours is a great job ! The wheels do pop up on ebay, I was lucky to pick up a pair at a rally cheaply.
  20. Yes no problem, I have a barrow for the Flymo DM on the go, I will measure that for you when out in the shed !
  21. I’ll take that as a compliment Paul as someone who has done a fantastic job on theirs. Thank you! I’d love to make a barrow attachment for mine as they must be as rare as hens teeth. Would you be able to give me the dimensions of yours?
  22. Looks great! You can't beat a bit of 'recycling'... in 30+ years of patching cars up I've never bought any steel.
  23. Very nice job I restored a couple of these in 2018, thats where Titch got the decal originals from ! Nice to see another one restored ! Paul
  24. Following a recent offer of a free Westwood Gemini, I've stripped it down to it's bare bones and managed to get it back to a reasonable condition. I needed to purchase some new parts like ignition coil, HT lead and new NGK spark plug. Starter recoil assembly with rope and handle and new engine gaskets of course (in particular the correct thickness head gasket). The cylinder head was de-coked, cylinder bore de-glazed, inlet and exh valves lapped in and valve clearances adjusted to spec. Ignition timing reset by finding true TDC with a dial gauge and degree disc on the crankshaft. Zenith carb cleaned inside and out with carb cleaner and jets cleaned with compressed air. Similar for the fuel tank with a new fuel pipe fitted. The 'gloop' in the chaincase was removed as far as possible and refilled with new oil. Unfortunately, the chaincase is sealed for life though I would have liked to get inside and give it a proper clean and renew the axle shaft seals. Everything torque tightened where I could find the figures and finally primed and painted in rattle can engine enamel. Stickers from Titch at Machinery Decals, which are great. It started 2nd pull and the carb adjusted once warmed-up. Looking forward to using it when I get my allotment. Photos below... Here's the completed machine...
  25. Ive got a few. If you pm me I will throw them in the mail for you.( Thews little guy's will get away from you very quickly )
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