Zak

Thanks David! sorry for the late reply, couldv'e swore i replied unless it didnt go through But yeah ahhhh sort of.....undid the carb and took the gaskets off but didn't actually take apart the arm mechanism, seems to me like both the ball and fuel line may be blocked - nothing coming out of either but will definately try trick that with the carb primer

Hmmmm yeah the fuel tank is just under the engine/sort of built into it - hmmmm if thats my issue, how exactly would can i clean it? but yeah, got one fuel line goes from one side of the fuel tank to the other, the other fuel line goes from fuel tank to carburetor - neither have any fuel passing through them and ahhh yep mostly Phillips head screws, but yeah seems the penetrating oil is the way to go then

Awesome as thanks david!! Ahhhh so i see ....seems like disassembly is my main option now - disassembled air intake, exhaust, carb looked brand new inside so i didn't end up taking apart, put new fuel lines......annnddd still didn't suck fuel....gotta be blocked either on the tank inlet or carb inlet...either that or i might see if i can rig up a temporary fuel tank above the engine so the fuel just gets gravity fed...my only real other concern with disassembly is a lot of the screws are easily damaged when undoing/redoing them up....only luck iv'e had is to use a lot of "WD-40" and similar penetrating oil spray lubricants to make it easier to undo them and reduce damage to the screw heads but theyr'e still getting damaged quite easily

Another question - just me chickening out a little bit on having to disassemble the entire engine haha - (since some small parts of the air intake foam filter have made it past the intake body) - does the engine really need to be all disassembled and cleaned?? If its run - wouldn't the foam just burn out with the combustion cycle and either carbon up slightly or ideally - go out the exhaust??? Would a good few minutes run with fresh fuel clean this out so to speak?? (now i know with dirt, dust, or sand in the engine it'd be a different story since they don't burn up, but foam?)

Thanks heaps david! ahhhh so i see....heard about that stop switch - seems like mine has one, but knowing me, somehow i'm sure il'l accidentally bend the metal lol - i'm not at all familiar with electrical systems either, but couldn't that end up going back to the coil/condenser and damaging it if it was stopped that way? or does the plastic around the stop switch stop that from happening? (no idea there lol) Anyway seems my best bet would probably be closing the choke And ahhhh didn't know about that! looking at the numbers now i see what you mean, they recommend more than double the oil than in the 32:1 mix!! lucky i haven't mixed the fuel yet thats for sure lol - i'm probably wrong about this, but running with too much oil in the mix would dirty the spark plug quicker right? hmmmm il'l try the 32:1 mix so then you could use either provided the right mix??? now i'm reading more apparently outboard oil or tcw-3 rated 2 stroke oils are appatrently "detergent free" but run more smoky....yeah i'm totally lost on this part lol

Thought i'd start a new thread for this, my main question here is once you get them running, what would be the best way to shut down an ohlsson & rice engine (or any 2 stroke/4 stroke engine?) Iv'e heard the best thing for all engines is to turn off the fuel valve and let it just run out of fuel?? but since these ohlsson rice engines mostly don't have on/off fuel valves, what would be the next best thing? spark plug wire needs to be screwed on so for me that's a no go, another way i think would be to just fully close the choke - but could this cause any damage/issues for restarting later on? Also some on the front of the engine ohlsson rice recommends something like a gallon regular gas to 3/4 pints outboard oil - whats the difference between regular 2 stroke oil and outboard oil and are they interchangeable??? i researched a little bit into 2 stroke outboard oils with the tcw-3 rating and all that, some websites said they were a better quality oil, some said they were worse! ....to add to my confusion - the regular 2 stroke oil iv'e been using (for lawnmower) has apparently been rated at tcw-3 - even though its not outboard oil??? Hope this makes sense! The auto store looked at me like i was a madman when i asked them what tcw-3 oil was LOL

Awesome as! hmmmm i might as well start a new one not as to go too off topic from this carb repair thread i'm sure il'l have tonns more carb questions when i actually get the time to take it apart haha

Ahhhhh i see i see....hmmmm maybe just carb cleaner for some definitely metal parts lol, and the air intake + exhaust since theyr'e especially rusted out with my one.... and ahhhh alright then sounds awesome!!! if the flywheel is fixed with a key and then contact breaker gap is the only timing adjustment then should be a lot easier seen it opened up/how it works in one of the youtube vids so makes it a lot easier for me haha Very much appreciated for helping me out here!! i know iv'e said it a lot, but its been literally 10 years iv'e had this engine and in that time all i knew was that it was a model engine, had compression and spark, and thats it, lol, never worked up the courage to disassemble it properly or do any serious trouble shooting on it I could ask like a million other unrelated to carb questions on here, but should i put them on another thread?? Thanks heaps David!!!

Ahhh i see.....carb cleaner and fuel it will be then - safe for all the metals in the carb/engine right??? heard that stuff can damage/eat away at plastics or gaskets??? and hmmmm yeah i think i saw a few small pieces of the old foam air filter inside past the air intake when took the carburetor off, so probably best to just give it a check out, might be a pain with my limited knowledge lol, but better than running with it and possibly causing damage only other thing i'm worried about for disassembling/reassembling (cause i have no idea) is the electrical/spark system - will that need to be timed to the piston cycle? or nothing to worry about??? Thanks again for all the help!!!

Ahhhh sweeet! will give that a try for sure with the air filter And ahhh damn....now that i think about it, yeah....should probably do it.... fuel line from fuel tank to carburettor was in pretty bad shape, seemed to be blocked at both ends, also iv'e got another fuel line that just runs across the fuel tank? (with the one i have the fuel tank is sort of built into the engine you could say - its under the engine/crankcase so gravity will do me no favors it seems.....though as long as iv'e got a clean carb, clean fuel lines,and cylinder compression, that *Should* suck the fuel from the tank into the carb right??? Could i test to see if the carb fuel line hole is clear by poking a small needle through it? or would that penetrate some sort of filter in there....would opening it up and pouring some petrol to see if it leaks out out the port work?? or is it a one way valve? Thanks for the advice on the diaphragms as well!!! will see how they are, rubber air intake gaskets were in surprisingly good shape so hopefully all good and ahhhh nope no governor/quadrant control for me, though i have some sort of metal strip/ air vane connected to the cylinder that apparently acts as a governor....think i put it back on the wrong way though after reinstalling the air intake/carb....if i'm right it should be placed on the bottom left of the butterfly valve/throttle- making it closed partially??? Thanks heaps for the advice - this forum is a godsend!!! Haven't worked on Engines for about 8 years now, so a lot to lean/re-learn, but its coming along well....last ones i worked on back in highschool were the small single cylinder 4 stroke's, and then the big 4 cylinder holden engines (though we had A LOT of instructor guidance for them haha!) anyway hopefully i can work on the carb one of these mornings before doing afternoon shift, would love to give it an entire weekend to work on, but never easy when have the girlfriend to deal with!!! haha btw not carb related, but could i theoretically clean/flush out the crankcase/ cylinder by overloading it with the gas/oil mix while the air intake and cylinder are removed, and then turning the crank?? good or bad idea??? need to see more vids/pics, but cylinder/exhaust assembly seems to just be able to be unscrewed after taking off the starter??? just a bit cautious of having to disassemble/reassemble the entire crankcase/piston assembly....plus theres the coil and electrical system which i don't even want to mess with since it still works haha Many thanks again!!!

Hey guys, i'm attempting to do this on my own ohlsson & rice engine i got around 10 years ago ago from a relative back when i when studying automotive in highschool haha, sparks great, compression's good, took off the air intake and had the same disintegrated foam air filter issue - cleaned it the best i could, but its the type that doesn't come apart anyway i'm a bit 50/50 on this - even if the foam is disintegrating, how would it get back into this part of the carburetor?? is it worth taking apart and having a look?? more importantly, if i undo the 3 top screws, will all the springs pop out and the mechanism come apart??? All that being said, i finally was able to start it for the first time ever after spraying some fuel down the air intake - though didn't run long since i'm sure its not getting any fuel which is due to either the carburetor, and/or blocked fuel lines (got new ones so hopefully all good) - anyway would you recommend this to a dude who's been out of the automotive game for almost 8 years??? Also - on the left hand side of the re assembled carburetor/air intake system - what is the purpose of the screw with the spring on it?? - and the 2 holes underneath - for a throttle cable i'm guessing?? - after your engines started in the choke open position, would you only use the small choke to run faster/slower??? Many thanks, Zak