Csaw

No, printed filament from an Ender 3. Flexible TPU for the gasket and PLA for the plates. Time will tell how the filament lasts but it was a quick and easy alternative.

thanks for the photos. I didn't have the carb to air cleaner seal so I 3d printed one out of TPU. Here's the STL file if anyone needs it.orline air filter gasket.stl

thanks. And that filter is just sandwiched between the 2 plates I assume?

Can someone share what their air filter looks like for their Orline 20A saw? Mine is missing and I need to make something.

That fixed it. thank you. Now it's alive! First time it has ran in 50 years.

After replacing the seals, it will fire now only if I put gas in the carb. I took the carb apart and everything was bone dry and the diaphragm was hard. The carb is model hdc-11. I ordered a kdc-10 kit and now too much gas, floods. I noticed that the button on this new diphragm is larger which causes the meter level to be pushed in, unseating the needle. See photo, new on the left, original on the right. For anyone else that has bought one of these kits, how large was the diaphragm button?

13 x 22 x 5 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003107101680.html But this would work https://www.ereplacementparts.com/oil-seal-13x22x5-p-1443576.html or https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/honda/91204ke8003

Replaced the 2 crank shaft seals and it now fires. Size are 13x22x5 if anyone needs to order replacements.

An Orline engine reference says "1/2 Pint S.A.E. 30 Motor Oil MS to One Gallon Regular Gasoline. DO NOT USE 10W/30 or 2 cycle Outboard Motor oil. For my O&R 20A chainsaw, is this true that I cannot use 2-cyle oil for the fuel mix? If so, why?

If anyone also has crank seal # or sizes that would be helpful too. Starting to run out of any other ideas. looks like 200041 is the pn for the crank shaft seals. https://myoldmachine.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=35503

To get the fuel line off, does the fly wheel need to come off (again) in order to get that side wall plate off that is up next to the fuel tank?

Hmm…I see a gap in mine on one side which may be a problem.

Have you seen the reed valves for sale anywhere?

I’ll have to check that. Would think it would still pop though when I put fuel straight in the plug hole.

The existing Champion CJ6 sparkplug did have a strong, blue spark but replacing it with a new Autolite 254 didn't fix anything. But if you could confirm what you are using, that would be helpful. I confirmed the key was in the crank shaft slot and the fly wheel slot was on the key. I'm pretty sure I remember there only being a single key/slot on the shaft and flywheel so not like it's in the wrong one. With my ohm meter, I could see when I connected it to the condenser that the condenser would charge. I could also see the condenser discharging as expected so I would think that means the condenser is good, but maybe not? If I"m seeing a strong spark could the condenser still be bad? Thinking about compression, it is a little hard/awkward to pull over but maybe that is just because the pull cord is goofy off the back of the recoil and not at the top where I'm used to it with modern saws.

I have an old saw model 20 A 274 that has been sitting for 40 years. I tried to get it going but with no luck. First it had no spark. The condenser tested good. I cleaned up the points a little and got spark. I threw a little mixed gas in the spark plug hole but it won’t pop. I replaced the spark plug as a test but no luck. Switch is on otherwise I wouldn’t have spark. I took off the muffler and the piston looks good at first glance, no lines. 1) is the champion cj6 that was in it the right plug? 2) I’m sure crank seals are shot and who knows what else but what else can I try just to see if it it will come alive? Thanks