It's a straight forward job. The Briggs Magnetron kit illustrated includes a new flywheel key and a blanking plug for the points breaker plunger hole. Obviously, to fit those the flywheel has to be removed . I have to own up to fitting many Magnetron coils without removing the flywheel and leaving the original key and points assembly in place with no apparent ill effects over a number of years.
The choice is yours.
Finally got my part today as I was told it was out of stock for a while!! Anyway here is a photo of the part and I have removed the old one except for the wire going under the flywheel as I am not sure if I cut this completely off or do I have to attach it the new wire I have been supplied? I presume I just cut it off but I thought I had better check first,
Just a quick note to Nigel thanks for the great photos your machine looks fantastic
Thanks again for your guidance I have now ordered the part which should be here next week. Once I have got it I will follow your advice and fit it and hopefully get it running. I will post some photos and report on how I get on later.
Many thanks for the advice I will follow your lead and do the same.Did you have to set up the feeler gauge gap up to the same point? or just do it by eye?
I have now removed the air filter assembly and gave the carburettor a bit of a clean up. I think I found the kill wire? (see photos) and it sits under the coil. Presumably I need to remove the coil to access further but I cannot see any breaks in the wire. But I like the idea of the BS Magnetron coil rather than having to remove the flywheel. I am going to check the BS page for testing. as mot sure how this kill switch works. I thought the engine once running was shut down via the fuel valve?
Just a quick update as I managed a quick look at the Hayter yesterday and I couldn't see a kill switch let alone points LOL!! On the handlebar there is only the clutch cable release handle and the govenor speed controller. Which shows choke slow and fast speed setting. I will take another look later today and clean up around the carb and maybe I will see a bit more
By the look of the image your machine has points ignition, no trigger module between the left leg of the coil armature and the coil itself.
Plug caps. Comments have been made about these being the likely cause of failure. This is only likely to be the case if the original BS connector has been removed and replaced with an aftermarket cap. Again, from your image you appear to have the original connector and there's not a lot that can go wrong with those. Sometimes they have a simple rubber boot.
The only exterior things left to check is the kill switch on the throttle plate or the kill wire that goes to it. If all is OK there, you have a choice, either remove the flywheel and examine the points etc , or find a later BS Magnetron coil ( with suitable leg spacing) and fit that in place of yours - a ten minute job and a direct replacement using your existing flywheel without the need to remove it.
Personally I would do the latter as they are 99.9% reliable and obviate the need to ever remove the flywheel again.
Thank you for the information and yes it has an original rubber plug cap I will check the kill switch and the kill wire once I have cleaned it up a bit, but I like the idea of the coil update as it seems to save of hassle in the future. I will update the post once I have had a go at it
Hello Riber3, welcome to the Forum. Firstly, you can test the Armature/Coil using the advice on the B&S site- -LINK-.
As far as I'm aware, the HT Lead is fixed to the Coil and sold as a complete unit. Part number for the Armature on your engine is 298968 and are about UK£33.00. for a genuine replacement.
Other things to check are the 'Kill' or 'Ignition Ground/Earth Wire' and setting. The linkage may not be isolating this when the Throttle Lever is moved to start position.
Some people have converted to a Transitorised Electronic Ignition system to replace the old system, where I'm sure someone on here would assist you with what is needed.
If you prefer to stay with the original system, then it is also possible the Condenser may be faulty.
As for Manuals etc for your engine model, if you click on this link, it will take you directly to B&S site's manuals for it. - B&S 170700 .
Hope this helps.
Regards
Thank you so much for the great advice and help I will certainly be putting it to good use later this week
I have just gotten hold of one of these with a 7HP B&S engine. I was told it was a runner but when I tried starting up found that it had no spark. Someone here mentioned that its normally a spark plug cap thats the culprit and not the the coil pack nut whats the best way to check both?? Can the plug lead be separated from the coil pack??
I have removed and tested the plug and that is ok and I even have a spare new one. I have removed the top cover and so far the only numbers I can find are these AT3600and M275CC The carb as you can see in the photos is pretty manky!! and of course No manuals so any help or advice would be most welcome
Hayter Osprey
in Other Garden Machines
Posted
Finally got my part today as I was told it was out of stock for a while!! Anyway here is a photo of the part and I have removed the old one except for the wire going under the flywheel as I am not sure if I cut this completely off or do I have to attach it the new wire I have been supplied? I presume I just cut it off but I thought I had better check first,
Just a quick note to Nigel thanks for the great photos your machine looks fantastic