Morrisoft

Could it be the crankshaft thrust disk? Part 148-3. Item 15 here.

The wear marks on both sides correspond with it having sat between oil hole and flywheel bolt. The other side has markings to match the recoil housing oil hole. The wear is only superficial for the most part but the pictures give a good idea of what orientation it sat in.

You're spot on! That explains the strange wear markings on this too! (Flywheel bolt spinning against it!) Top detective work there. Glad we sussed that one. Can replace it now, although, I'm wondering if it's all that necessary? The recoil seems to function perfectly happily and with the spark removed the engine spins up no issues without any apparent issues inside the recoil housing while the flywheel is spinning. I remember putting the recoil spring back in all too well when I fixed that way back still in the Philippines. Was such a pain to get seated properly. My hands still bear scars from it. I will investigate how easily replaced it is.

Good evening David. I think you're right, the spring looks very close to the one on yours. I have a further 7 of these if they're every needed by anyone. Interesting - the very same supplier I used for the NGK. I think maybe I took their last CM6 then, as they didn't have any others on their eBay store. It's certainly 10mm which is good to have confirmed. Almost identical to the one it replaced other than a slightly different washer on the thread. I had thought around 1965 as this was when the gentleman who owned it mentioned purchasing it, just wondered if there were exact dates but a confirmation of 1965 is suffice. It's interesting to note that yours too has a different screw for one of the 4 tank mounts. Mine is simply a hex bolt of the same length, I assume due to lack of clearance around the engine for a screwdriver to reach it without completely dismantling all shrouds first. Is bluing like oil blacking, or are they the same think by a different name? Tempted to give it a try if this is the case as I've done this before. Cheers,

I had thought the carb disc was bigger? This is only 10mm approx across. Very little compared to the size I'd been assuming the disc is from other pictures/posts? If so then this is good news - I'm surprised, didn't come from within the carburetor, I remember that much. It appeared at some point during the rebuild for sure, all parts have been kept in small plastic tubs (a lid of which I used to photograph this piece), is it possible its come from somewhere else?

Many happy returns to the birthday boy

Ah! I think this works nicely. Spring is a little tougher than I'd imagine it needs to be but at least we know it won't move on its own. Oh. Also. Quickly. Does anyone recognise where this is missing from? Can't quite place it from the exploded diagrams. I am assuming it's from the engine but can't fathom where exactly.. Cheers

Hi David. Good spot, hadn't noticed the idle screw. I most likely have a spare, certainly have a screw but not sure about another spring. Does the tension for the spring matter? Might have a few tougher ones.. I had thought all those holes were for various other applications so I'm glad you noticed that was missing. The NGK spark plug is a replacement of the original that came with this particular engine, a CM-6. They're cheaper than the champion plug alternatives and since it ran with one previously I figured why not. I also prefer the shorter profile of them to the champion plugs. I've added a spark plug clamp and some more heatshrink today. Happy with the results. I ordered some gasket paper, since I've done everything else, I figured some proper gaskets in the carb etc, can't exactly hurt. Bonus, paid for A5 sheet, received an A4! In terms of the engine, yes I remember asking. It's a Type 151B, engine number 086792. Is there anything else that can be gleaned from this aside from what have been mentioned already? Manufacturing date perhaps? Just awaiting my last shipment from webhead, (diaphragm disk and Mylar check valve) and a test run can be done! If I did decide on repainting the recoil housing, does anyone have the specific paint codes for O&R Red? I assume for the muffler/air filter housing, black, any high-heat exhaust paint will suffice? Cheers,

Time for an update! I had to bite the bullet and rewire the ignition coil. I was able to dig enough away as per your suggestion. I then soldered a new fresh length of wire to them both. The longer one was for the new stop switch wire. Also got some new fuel line too. 2mm inside diameter in red, this wasn't intentional but suits the engine nicely. Rather snug on the tank nipples, no need for any clamps! May need to shorten the carb fuel feed as it's a little wedged in there. We'll see. Epoxied the HT lead base and stop switch and armature loop for long term stability. Really didn't like the way it looked, almost like Vaseline! Managed to sort this out nicely with a 'paintbrush' style black permanent marker. Also ordered a new spark plug shoe/boot, couldn't get them in singular form, so if anyone needs one, I'll have 3 spare. Shall fit this once it arrives. In two minds as to whether I should paint it fresh or keep the rustic original look. I had a spare spring and washer and, it seems functional. We shall see. Everything is now virtually finished. I'm just waiting on one last part for the carb now. Few more bits arrived this morning too: Any thoughts, or last minute things you can think of to check before it comes to running it again for the first time? Cheers,

Quick update with things.. Yesterday I managed to finally clear virtually all the goop from within the petrol tank, the fuel nipple with inline filter unfortunately remains blocked at the moment. On it's third soak of petrol as we speak. The stator rewiring is now complete as per your guidance regarding high (thin)/ low (thick+thin) orientation etc. Many thanks David! Pictures are below, it was an incredibly tight fit once putting the two back together. I only hope the soldering is up to the job. How easily it will go back together, given the difficulty involved in getting it separated, remains to be seen. More good news, this arrived with many thanks to webhead for his help. Just waiting on the diaphragm and needle-valve/spring and this should be good to give a test run with a temporary tank, unless it does finally unblock first!

Ah brilliant. I'm glad you clarified this for me as that would have been interesting when firing it up for the first time. Am i correct to assume it would simply have reversed the way outlets functioned if I'd wired it the other way around, making the 12v outlets 110v, and vice versa? Look forward to seeing the diagram, I can continue to replace/reinstate the wiring for now. I shall use different coloured electrical tape to enable me to identify the lower/higher voltage wiring as I only have black heatshrink and white cable of the appropriate gauge at the moment! 🙈 This is how things stand at the moment: I will clean and tin the connections ready for soldering to new lengths of cable. In terms of clearance I imagine the space for cabling, once reassembled, is slightly tight so I'll try to keep these as short as I can work with. Many thanks again David, you've been a tremendous help thus far!

Now that looks brilliantly useful! Wouldn't mind one myself 🤔

David you're an absolute diamond my friend. Pretty sure you read my mind with the pictures as I was going to ask if you had more. Fairly sure I can rewire from these pictures, I've stripped back all the crud and mess and gotten down to where the wires meet the windings as you'll see below. Some spare speaker cabling came to the rescue with the rewiring, so far so good. Unfortunately I only have lead-free at the moment but plenty of solder flowed nicely onto the two outputs shown below. Interestingly enough those two original pieces of wiring survived without corrosion or even the insulation cracking, still fairly supple so I've reused these as the copper was nice and clean after cutting them free of the old crimps. I'm going to use cable junction blocks to reattach the the two to the nipples inside the casing. Am I right in thinking the lower voltage windings clamp down to these? On the core itself I have two sets of wiring - both bottom leads connect to a thicker and thin winding, whereas the two upper leads connect to singular thin winding - I'm just hoping to confirm before final rewiring/soldering occurs. See below. Cheers

Evenin' all. While I await advice regarding the coil (I have an idea - more on that later), I've opened up the generator section to check the wiring - sure enough it's a bit of a mess and heavily corroded. I am tracing back the wiring to where it meets the motor windings, I assume I can safely replace these lengths with fresh wire - should I find some that's actually corrosion free of course. The big downside of this coming from the Philippines seems to be the humidity and the wiring! So much for. Any advice will be greatly received.

Good to know. Thanks David. Decided on finally tackling the coil today, I fear I've discovered why there is no spark though! 🙈 There are 3 smaller wires that come from the coil along with the HT lead that would go to the spark plug. Two are twisted together (appears to be intentional) and go from a small hole onto the bolt which holds the two parts of the coil frame together, these are not insulated and are visible above - one of the two had snapped off where it enters the coil. The third is, I believe, for the engine stop and although also broken and lacking insulation in places, feeds to the rear of the spark-gap assembly with the condenser and engine cut off switch. This one can be soldered onto a replacement wire and should be fine - the other two I'm not so sure about as the break is flush with the exterior of the coil itself and I can't see any easy way to get inside to reattach or replace the broken bits. Hope the images are clear enough to see what I mean, any ideas on how best to approach this one, gents? Also - my engine says 'type 151', I wonder if this means anything when compared with others that say 'model b' .. ? Cheers

Ah I see where it goes now. I wondered where it should be in relation to the other gaskets. I have some Mylar so I'm tempted to simply recreate one as my old gasket would be a suitable template. Thanks for link regarding the o-rings David, will look to get some more closer to the end of the build. Just awaiting the spare bits from webhead at the moment, they'll be coming in two separate packages due to my haste in getting bits and not completely checking the carburetor prior to the diaphragm being shipped to me! Hoping they'll be here early this coming week - shouldn't take much longer than that I would think. Cheers

Does this material have any specific qualities other than being made of Mylar? If someone has a template of one to scale I could probably cut one by hand with scapels. David, in regard to exhaust gaskets and their replacement, are these readily available or would they need to be machined to spec? Cheers

You may be right - what came off of/from the carburetor is in the picture I sent previously. I take it the Mylar check valve is the plastic gasket-like film atop the diaphragm in the image above? If so there isn't one of those here.

Just replied to the other thread Heh! I'm still in search of the above mentioned components for my carburetor. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cheers

Good afternoon chaps. I have finally gotten round to dismantling the engine further - earlier removed the cylinder head and exhaust - very pleased to see such little wear to the internals and crank etc. Being on a roll, I decided to dismantle the carb in anticipation for the arrival of the new diaphragm from webhead - I've discovered something a little strange. (And that perhaps I should have inspected the carb sooner!) It appears that the diaphragm is actually in pretty good shape but.. There are a couple of bits missing! (See image below) -Diaphragm ball valve -Diaphragm arm -Diaphragm arm spring -Diaphragm disk There isn't a gasket either but I'm told this isn't required and can be reassembled without. I assume the carburetor won't function correctly without the ball valve, arm, spring and disk - does anyone have these spare that I could purchase them from? I'm hoping for no more surprises with this engine, nonetheless still enjoying the project. Cheers

Hi David, Hope your weekend has been nice thus far. I potentially have a replacement needle valve via webhead as per your suggestion, many thanks to both on that matter. In regards to the fuel tank, I've managed to clear the majority of the gunk inside (still soaking on third round of petrol + nails/junk) and have cleared the two breather feeds on the tank with no problems. The fuel feed (internal to the tank) that goes to the carb still seems to be blocked (no flow through of fuel, even when inverting the tank) - any ideas are welcomed, would prefer not to crack open the bottom unless I'm left with no other option. Also, the gasket/paper seal for the fuel tank cap is long since gone/perished, can a new one be fashioned from thick card or similar? Cheers Many thanks - have dropped you a PM.. 👍

Hi David. Thank you for your detailed response. In regard to the needle valve, as shown in the picture I uploaded, is all I have unfortunately, there does however appear to be a seal of sorts upon to the top of the housing for the needle screw. It's marked slightly and the original was damaged/broken due to over-tightening from small hands - hoping the housing is fine, I will try to get better pictures uploaded tomorrow for that. Thank you for the links and info on bolts, I will be ordering some fairly soon I'm sure. Any label upon the band itself is long since gone which is a shame but once it fires we shall know for sure either way. Sounds like a 110v (& 12v) @ 300w as you suggest. As for the fuel tank, I'm going to give it a good clean as the (inside) bottom of the tank is gunked up quite badly. Will petrol be suffice to clean it up? Cheers.

Morning David. Many thanks for the warm welcome and quick response. In regard to the carburetor needle, I have included a picture below so you may see the damage that occured. Please let me know how much you require for the replacement, I am able to send the broken one back to you if you feel it's fixable? Haven't seen this needle type on other engines, not sure if it matters? Thank you for the information pertaining to the spark plug - I have ordered 2 fresh ones. I shall check the contact points with a meter later today, they looked relatively clean on first inspection though so perhaps it'll give us a better idea of what's up. In relation to the nuts/bolts I did have a feeling they wouldn't be easy to obtain - the flywheel cover for mine came with two screws missing and wondered how easily replaced they would/wouldn't be. Lastly, regarding the Philippines, indeed the distributor there appeared to import them from the US, I forget where, but on this basis I would assume 110v rather than 240v, I shall confirm this once we have it running again either way. The owner was under the impression it was 120v and 12v @ 9amps , depending on which output you took from the generator. We shall see soon enough 👌🏼 Progress yesterday was slow, but did manage to polish and remove all traces of rust and the majority of surface pitting to the air filter housing and muffler, cleaned the base plate, handle and fuel tank of any corrosion/tarnishing too.

Good evening folks. Very impressed with all the work I've read about on keeping these beauties running. First off.. here's the engine! I am under the impression I can get a replacement diaphragm/gasket and intend to do so provided they're still available? That aside, the needle screw valve on my engine carburetor was sheared from overtightening by small fingers! Is there a suitable replacement for these? (I will attach a photo when possible) I was surprised to find the original air filter foam intact and healthy albeit a little darkened. (See small bag below right of tank) The previous owner had cherished this engine for many a hike in the mountains. The care shows, it's just unfortunate that small fingers damaged some things. I have repaired the starter which had been over-pulled and jammed. Fairly confident compression is good, are replacement spark plugs easy to source? I also wondered if there is anyone with knowledge of coil/condenser repair? These parts of the engine have developed a fault and is choosing not to spark. Will check more closely tomorrow to be certain but I fear internal breakdown of the coil. Is it possible to get new bolts/screws for these at all? Did I mention the engine&generator have travelled to the UK with me, all the way from the Philippines? Thanks in advance. Cheers VID_78680702_145534_379.mp4