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BIGJOHNG2

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Everything posted by BIGJOHNG2
 
 
  1. Do any of you gents in the UK have any idea what a Lister Junior would sell for? We don't see many of the Listers here in the US. and I have my eye on one for sale . There is an issue with the connecting rod bearing , but was told they are easy to find over there. Thanks for your help in advance. John
  2. Contact Wallfish or Factory they should be able to help you out. They do know their stuff!!! John Graham
  3. How did you ever find this article? Good work! John
  4. https://www.bmt-usa.com/schematics/ I have one just like it! You can find info on the web along with pdf drawings etc. Value??? Maybe $250. https://www.bmt-usa.com/app/download/7248228867/15_Drill_Parts_Break_Down_After_1957.pdf.
  5. Does anyone have an operator's manual and parts list for an Orline Mustang chainsaw (yellow)? I purchased this on epay a while back and need to get it running! Thanks, John
  6. I see that there are three spark plugs listed for O&R engines... Champion UY-6, CJ-8, and CJ-14. Is there one that works better than others? It seems like the UY-6 is harder to find. Any thoughts? John
  7. Thanks for the info ,John. Did you get a lot of snow from the last storm?
  8. So I have been working on my Comet pump. I was able to connect the vane ( flag ) to wire shaft which Wallfish provided. I then worked the metal with a screwdriver and secured the metal as best I could. To make the connection more secure I used a dab of epoxy. That seemed to do the trick.It is now tight.I reassembled the governor to the carb ,but it sure seems like the fit is very loose and might come flying out with the motor running. Is there a way to somehow fasten the shaft to the carb? This governor design seems a bit flaky to say the least . Any pointers? Thanks, John
  9. Roger on the idiots! I did have experience in the snow while stationed with the AF in the UP of Michigan. They did clear the snow quickly ,but with 220" or more they needed to. However, the salt on the roads tore up your car... I guess they do that in your area too. John
  10. Thanks for the help John. Too cold to work in the shop today with a low of 20F tonight. So far about 6inches of snow with a strong wind. We are used to rain , but not snow John
  11. Can someone please explain the various fuel tank multiple gas connections on the Tiny Tiger fuel tank? What are the proper connections for the various lines? Also is there a mfg manual for the tool? and MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!!! John Graham
  12. Interesting Dough. Never thought about the oil mixture... that by increasing the oil would lean the fuel burn. Would the opposite then be true? Like using 32:1 make the engine run richer? How then does the mixture screw on the carb enter into the picture? Thanks, John
  13. I would like to get your consensus on the best oil to gas ratio to use on O & R engines. On the operating instructions I read , thoroughly mix 3/4 pint of outboard oil or any good # 30 SAE oil and 1 gallon of regular gasoline. The decal on the motor says mix 1/3 pint SAE 30 Heavy duty oil (MS type or equal) with 1 gal 70-80 octane gasoline.This gives a ratio of about 24 : 1. There is a bit of a difference between 3/4 pint and1/3 pint to 1 gallon gasoline What about gas ...I would guess ethyl alcohol free fuel would be best on the seals etc. However, on a modern 2 stroke weed eater that I have had for years I do use regular gas, BUT always run the machine dry after each use. Has anyone used a mixture of 32:1 and ran their machines for some time without any trouble? Your opinions ... Thanks, John
  14. David... Just curious.Did the impeller fit OK? John
  15. The points are there, the key is there, the crank threads are good, and the crank nut is there. Yeh, I am hooked! Didn't know they existed until a month or so ago when I visited an online auction, although I remember O&R plane engines when I was a kid.I do like to display engines doing work so the various tools are perfect! And did I say they are sure a lot lighter from my hit and miss engines and old tractors!! Old iron seems so much heavier than it used to be!! Who holds the record for the most tools? John
  16. This Kenco followed me home from epay today!!! On outward appearance it looks pretty standard Kenco 61 until the front cover is opened... NO flywheel ! and no carb! Both pieces were wrapped separately in the packing box... and they do not belong with this machine! Let the buyer beware! The motor is a TYPE 115 s/n 063124. I am searching for parts!!! John
  17. Great pictures and information. Pictures are indeed worth a 1000 words! Dave, what kind of camera are you using? Pictures are very sharp.Lighting is excellent .Wallfish...I would be interested in the carb casting but not the governor flag as I can make that. Should I pm you to work out the details? In regards to trimming down an impeller for the pump... I tried grinding an impeller with a belt sander , but it did not work well. A bit of research suggested using a hot nichrome wire. Another person froze the rubber with LN2 and had good results. I don't have access to LN2 any more ,but I may try CO2 and acetone. Sure would be easier just to find a p/n that would work! Got a new toy from epay today , But will start a new topic on that one. Thanks again for all the help. You guys are really generous with your time!!! John
  18. David, I just checked my engine type and it is a TYPE 109 s/n 016395.My mistake! The attached picture also shows a part of the carb not listed in the parts breakdown that I can find. Is this lever/stop available? I did replace the check valve with the mylar type. In regards to the picture of the governor vane would you "guestimate" the length of the shaft? It looks to be about 1/8" in diameter. Again thanks you for the help John
  19. BIGJOHNG2

    BIGJOHNG2

  20. Thanks... I would like that. I would think that the vane should not be too hard to make, John
  21. I am looking for a flexible vane impeller . The size is 2 inch diameter x 1/2 inch wide x 5/16 inch D hole. I have searched high and wide, but no luck. The 1/2 inch wide is the problem. The narrowest I can find is 7/8 inch. I am considering trimming the 7/8 inch to size. Any suggestions? Back to the governor vane.... is the shaft just wire that has been ground flat on the end? Would you take a guess at the diameter? Thanks for the help!!! John
  22. I think that a good place to start is at the beginning of the Ohlsson And Rice blog. There is an excellent O&R Carb Repair Tutorial that I found very usueful. Also if you have access to You Tube , Mustie 1 has videos on Jan, 20, 2018 "will it run? antique gas powered drill"..It might be of help. It is a two part video.Search you tube as written inside of the quotation marks John
  23. I did find the vane and a small broken spring from the starter dog assembly. The vane was bent.and the shaft from the vane to the carb was missing. The reason I was asking about carb inter-changeability is that the slot on the end of the throttle shaft... one piece has broken away. I'm not sure sure the connection from the vane assembly to the carbs throttle would remain in place and I may need to swap out cabs. I could take pictures but I am afraid they would show little. I will show a picture of the vane. The s/n of the engine is 016395 Type 169. I'll try for some pics tomorrow. John
  24. Well, I got my my Comet transfer pump running, but without the pump as I am awaiting delivery of a new Impeller. I think that my O&R may be an older unit( '61or "62) and may be missing some parts on the carb and linkage to the vane governor . My question is can I put a newer carb on my motor and will it lash up to the induction case assembly ok on my motor. I now have no control of the speed (rpm) without input from the governor vane. I really had to scramble to shut it down when it started to over speed! I would gladly accept any advice! Joh Graham
 
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