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CNew last won the day on September 1

CNew had the most liked content!

About CNew
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    Advanced Member
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    Ohlsson & Rice and 1960s IH Cub Cadet and other vintage stuff
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  1. There are a couple used coils and condensers on eBay right now. when you checked the spark after cleaning and setting gaps did you put the starter housing back on and pull the rope or did you just turn the flywheel by hand to check for spark? I’ve had engines where if I used the starter rope it helped turn the flywheel fast enough to get spark whereas if I just tried to spin the flywheel by hand nothing would happen. also, when you cleaned the points did you clean the little posts they fit on? I’ve had cases where the slightest corrosion or oil on the little posts messed up the spark.
  2. i usually just loosen the flywheel nut and unscrew it until it’s about flush with the end of the threaded shaft. Then give it a sharp tap with the end of a wrench (or very small hammer) and it always pops right off. The rapid shock from the impact is what loosens it from the tapered shaft. You really don’t have to hit it very hard, more of a firm tap.
  3. I agree with John, best to try to clean the fuel tube and filter from the top off possible and make removing the bottom plate of the gas tank a last resort. I’ve removed a couple before and it’s a bit of work, takes down patients, consistent heating and finesse. Plus you need a good adhesive/sealant to re-install. It can be done but it’s a pain that’s better avoided when you can. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/4245-tiny-tiger-gas-tank-repair/
  4. I would be interested but thinking shipping from the UK to the US is probably cost prohibitive.
  5. l think this is the modern front seal - Timken/Nationals 342805
  6. That is really strange about the spark. I wish had some ideas to try. There are a couple used condensers one a system if you decide to go that route.
  7. Welcome to the forum! Can you add a couple photos of your outboard? I’m curious if it’s the Aquabug style or if it’s from the 1970s it could be the later version that used the larger 20A engine (Clinton and Wards made a version, sometimes referenced as a K150). If it’s the later version some had a more common Walbro LMB carb and you can still get complete rebuild kits.
  8. This one has the whole muffler and mounting screw… plus you get a few extra pieces https://www.ebay.com/itm/325291990841?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D9cda3c028d10481e9d42933897cec9c8%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D204095571721%26itm%3D325291990841%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DSears&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276
  9. Nice spread! I bet you got a lot of attention.
  10. Oh, wow- that’s a real shame… they really went to town on that one. Even has the original muffler, that style seems to always be missing.
  11. I forgot you also have one of the fire dept fans. I love the old Beacon Star lapidary saw. I e yet to see another one! That P3 fogger has the 20A engine, right?
  12. I thought we had see this one before, found the other post…
  13. I do, did a full refresh. Interesting story behind this one…
  14. Wow, that’s a nice haul! If you decide to part out anything - I’m in line behind Wallfish. I think those rubber boots are carburetor intake connections for the old Groomer weed eater.
  15. I have some spare ball bearings in each size if you don’t find any at the hardware store. Are the gaskets and diaphragm in ok shape? here is a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134033429729?hash=item1f3503d4e1:g:IcQAAOSwwnJiFoHA&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOGeiEQQ5nfzwN9saTtlV%2BzPE3Y3dEymXDtcW9nG85fKdMlusd%2B78YYy1THX21qdaRglFIRiFa2sbXJD2U75ue7o%2BrNh8owE7pZa9NYt6OUEHvW4V2daU75KQFEw50Aubt230cW28PE5rlKfIno6SqbNzazlAcSdvnyIIZU%2Fqtn%2FGPYP24o9Ddl89z5r5f8F1LS91ZOkypRG%2B7yJ9Q9q%2FIY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7rlne3UYA
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