Bob V

The piece of spring steel arrived yesterday. I will let you know how I make out with it. Thank You..!!

Thank you John...

Hi John, Well my feeler gauge experiment was a failure. The material probably has too much tension. It would not prime and would not run, so I assume it is putting too much pressure on the ball. If you can send me a piece of the material that you used, I would sure appreciate it. I don't know if you are a fan of Bring a Trailer, but I visit the site occasionally to look at all the vintage cars, motorcycles, mini bikes and go kart of yesteryear. I saw this micro-power micro-bike. Is this the same type that you have or had? I posted a link below. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/micro-power-micro-bike/ Thanks, Bob

Hi John, I made a spring out of a feeler gauge, but I have not installed it yet. I will try to get to it tomorrow or Saturday. If it does not work, I will take you up on your offer. Thanks, Bob

Hi John - Don't worry about it. I thought maybe you had a surplus of them. I will try making one from a feeler gauge. I have several laying around and will match up the tension and then cut it out and make the bends. I don't know if you have ever seen a video of the USPS letter sorting machines, but they have vertical rubber rollers that apply a lot of tension to the envelopes to keep them running at warp speed. It was not the whole spring that broke, just the very ends where they are cupped to rests on the diaphragm roller. That is what I found in the envelope. As I mentioned, it runs fine and may never be a problem, but it just kind of worries me that one of the legs does not sit on the diaphragm roller and that in turn makes the diaphragm arm sit a little bit off center. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks, Bob

Hi John - I mentioned that the two legs of the diaphragm arm spring were shorter than they should have been, one more than the other. Well, I found two small pieces in the envelope that you sent the spring in. The culprit was probably the high speed sorting machines that the USPS uses. They put a lot of pressure on the envelopes when running through the sorting process.

Hi John - The diaphragm spring arrived today along with the diaphragm and gasket you included. Thank you for that. I installed it and got the Tiny Tiger 300 running. The one you sent is working but it appeared to be worn at the two ends, where it cups and should rest on the diaphragm roller. One side barely rested on the top of the roller and the other side was slightly shorter, so it does not make contact with the roller. I made sure that the spring was in as far as it could go. Like I said, it is working, but I don't know for how long. With one end of the spring sitting on top of the roller and the other not on the roller, it makes the diaphragm arm slightly off center, so I don't know how long it will run like that. I was wondering if you have another diaphragm spring, in good shape, that I can buy from you? Don't get me wrong, I am grateful for the one you sent, but would like to have a good spare in case this one does not last. I am more than happy to buy it. I mailed you $20.00 for the spring, diaphragm and gasket that I received today and you should have it by the end of the week. Thanks again, Bob

Does anybody have a carburetor arm spring for a Tiny Tiger 300 that they would sell? Mine has one of the legs broken off. Thanks.....

I recently purchased a supply of the 1/16" and 3/32" chrome steel ball bearings used for check valves in most of the O&R carburetors. These are high quality ball bearings precision rated G25. If you need some, just drop me a PM.

I received it....Thank you....Put it on my " I Owe You" list. Just don't send the Godfather to collect it.... Thanks again...!!

Thanks for the heads up on the brake fluid. Walmart is about the only place that I did not look. Like you, I had an old rusted can in the garage for about 30 years and finally pitched it never knowing that I might need it in the future. I will visit Walmart in the morning. Were you ever able to mail me a grounding strap for #2? Thanks again, Bob

Hi John - Where in the world do you find DOT 3 non synthetic brake fluid? I have tried to find it, but all the auto parts stores that have DOT 3 only have it in the synthetic formula. Any ideas where you might be able to find the old stuff? Thanks ~ Bob

Check the spark plug.

My guess is that the point have a build up on them. If you already cleaned the points, then a tiny piece of debris got into the points, which will make them run like poop. It will misfire, backfire and stall out.

Once the governor shaft is in the carburetor, it will stay in. It is a loose fit, but it does not come out. Sometimes it is a little tricky getting it into the hole in the carburetor and keeping it in the hole while you are mounting the carburetor, but once you get the carburetor mounted, the shaft will stay in the hole.

Hi Tim - I have never had a governor vane out of the engine case, but from what you are describing it sounds like you should slide the grommet on the governor shaft when it is not in the the engine case. This will allow the grommet to stretch as it goes over the wider area on the shaft. Then put some lubricant on the grommet and push it into the hole in the engine case with the governor vane inside of the grommet. Just a guess, but it seems like the way to address it.

I used chainsaw mix in mine, but I add a few extra drops of oil in the tank just to be safe. These engines of the 1960's are not built like the engines of today. A small amount of extra oil in the gas makes for a happy two stroke.

I know it seems strange, but the intake manifold, where it bolts to the engine block does have two identical gaskets. The first time I saw that, I thought it was a mistake, but having two gaskets is correct. Perhaps they needed the extra gasket to get proper alignment for the governor shaft? To remove the governor shaft you will need to remove the recoil starer cover and pull the governor vane and shaft out through that side. The governor shaft just sits loosely in a rubber grommet on the engine back plate.

No, the air filter and muffler are different. The muffler has three section. Some of the air filters had two sections and others were one piece.

Yes, por 15 will work fine.

I use a product called Kreem on my chainsaw tanks. It is a gas tank liner, but will also work as a sealer. The problem is that it comes in a 16 oz bottle and you probably only need 1 oz. or less. The best bet would be to go or have someone go to an auto parts store and ask for a gas tank sealer in a tube. I am sure that they would have something in a small tube that would work.

Tim - If you have the generator that I think you do, the tank should unbolt from the bottom. The reason I suggest unbolting the tank is so that you can wash it out to get any gas and fumes out of it before applying heat with the heat gun. Another option would be to pour out all the gas out of the tank, if there is still any in there and then leave it outside in the sun with the gas cap off to let any residual gas evaporate and then use the heat gun. You would heat that steel plate up around the outer edges and then push it out from the inside of the tank. You can use epoxy mix to re-seal the tank as long as it is gas resistant.

Hi Tim - I wonder if you bought the same one that I bought one eBay back in May. It was advertised as NOS, but when I got it, it appeared like it may have been run once a long time ago, but not for very long. Because of the age, I put new diaphragms in the carburetor and installed new fuel lines. I put gas in it and it started leaking out of the bottom seam of the gas tank. The seller offered me $100.00 off, but I declined and returned it. Since then, I read an article another person posted about repairing these tanks. Basically you have to remove the tank from the frame. Then wash it out with soapy water to remove any gas fumes. The take a heat gun and heat the outside panel of the tank. The tank is cast aluminum except for the outside panel, which is steel. You heat that panel enough to soften the original sealer and then take a piece of wood or a screwdriver and going in through the gas filler neck, you push the panel out , so it separates from the aluminum tank. Don't try to pry it because it will bend and you will not be able to reseal it. Once you remove that panel, clean all the sealer off the the panel and the area where it mates on the aluminum tank. Then get a gas proof sealer and put a fresh bead on the sealing areas on both the aluminum tank and the steel panel and then press them together. Position the tank so that the steel panel is facing up and put some weight on it - a pound or two to help give it a good seal. Then let it sit for 6 - 8 hours and then you can reassemble it.

Which one do you have? Is it the 300 that has the gas tank under the motor or the 50001-1 that has the larger gas tank along side of the motor?

I will have to take a second mortgage on the house for that one.... Thanks...!!