Bob V

Thank you for your note. I saw that one, but the seller says that it will not come off the manifold because it is badly rusted. They tried to remove the retaining nut, but could not get it to budge. The cylinder and piston are scored and the crankshaft is rusted, so there are not a lot of good parts there. I just can't see spending over $50.00 for a badly rusted muffler. I was hoping that someone had a good used one at a reasonable price. Thanks again for responding...Bob

Tim - I cannot post pictures on this site, but if you will give me your regular e-mail address I will send you pictures showing how to access that back screw. I have never replaced a rope, so any information you can share would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Tim - Do you still need help getting that top inside screw out?

I recently purchased a Ohlsson & Rice Tiny Tiger style engine but it came without the muffler. It does have the silver exhaust manifold, but the three piece muffler is missing. I could also use the muffler "L" shaped mounting rod with the retaining nut. If you have one laying around that you do not need, I would like to buy it from you. Thanks...Bob

My guess would be no. They are precision cut. It would be impossible to duplicate one by hand. I will send you a PM.

That piece is a check valve to keep the crankcase pressure within the crankcase. It allows the fuel and air to enter the crankcase on the intake stroke and then seals the crankcase for the compression/ignition stroke. I am amazed if your engine is running without it. You must be getting a lot of blow back through the carburetor and into the air filter. Your engine will run much better with that flapper in place.

Not sure which gasket you are calling the flapper gasket? If you are referring to the one that goes between the bottom base assembly and the top, there are two pieces. One is a thick gasket that goes on the bottom and a check valve (flapper) that goes on top of that. The purpose of that is to keep the crankcase pressure from coming back through the carburetor. If those are missing, I am surprised that it runs at all. Did you meant that the flapper is there, but the thick gasket under it is missing?

Yes, and both the pin and the arm are held in place with the diaphragm arm spring.

There is a black "U" shaped piece of spring steel that holds the lever in place. If you go to the website and go to the carburetor tutorial and go to the second page, you will see the diagram of the carburetor. There is also a lot of valuable information there on disassembling and reassembling the carburetor.

Yes, take a look at the diagram above on this thread. Hope this helps.

SUCCESS...!! Another TT300 comes back to life. Wallfish, without you this would have been just another one of those non-running display models. I cannot thank you enough...

Hi John - Thank you for taking time to help. I know that your spare time is almost non-existent. I wish I knew that it was suppose to have a diaphragm disc. I did not realize it until I saw the diaphragm. It made sense to me that it needed the disc because when you push the primer button down, there is nothing to pick it back up other then the arm and that would not have much effect against the soft diaphragm. All the chainsaw carbs that I rebuild have an attached disc. It appears that the former owner of this TT300 lost several parts in the carb. The diaphragm roller, that you supplied, and the diaphragm disc were missing. I sent you better picture of the carb internals in another -e-mail to your yahoo address. I do have the check valve installed properly although the pictures make it look otherwise. If you have a diaphragm disc, I would be more that happy to buy it from you or trade you for some Homelite engine parts. I just sent you better pictures of the carb internals. If you see anything else that is missing or not correct, please let me know. Thanks again ~ Bob

Guys, I really need your help with this TT300 carburetor. This is the first O & R carburetor that I have ever worked on so I have nothing to compare it to. When I bought this TT300, it did run, but the primer was not working. The only way to start it was to put it on full choke and pull the recoil until if fired. When I previously inquired about the primer not pumping some of you suggested that the ball was not sealing. I pulled the carburetor apart and found that it does not have a ball top, but rather a lever arm with the rubber pad. Here is where it gets interesting. When I had the carb apart I noticed that the spring was much more forward than it should have been and it was missing the diaphragm roller (#10 in the diagram below). However, it did run and ran well with the exception of the primer not working. Then the rubber pad fell off of the arm. Wallfish was kind enough to send me a replacement arm with the pad and a diaphragm roller. I installed the new arm and then installed the spring with the diaphragm roller positioned like it should be under the open end of the spring. I also installed all new gaskets in the carb. Again, it would not prime. I put it on full choke and pulled the starter about twenty times until it fired. Once it fired, it ran, but seemed to be running lean. Before I disassembled the carb, I had the needle out one turn from closed and it was running at 6,200 rpms - no load and responded to adjustments to the needle. Now, with the new arm, diaphragm roller and new gaskets, I have the needle out two turns from closed and it is running at 6,800 rpms - no load. If I turn the needle in, rpms will climb, but there is no decrease once the needle is more than two turns out. I have taken the carb apart several times and cannot fine anything unusual, but again, this is my first O & R engine and the problem may be looking me in the face and I cannot see it. When there is gas in the fuel line and I try to prime it, I can see the gas in the gas line pushing back to the tank - opposite of what is suppose to happen. I thought that maybe the new arm was not sealing, but I while I had it apart, I put a piece of hose on the inlet nipple and sucked and blew while the arm was in the up position and it was totally sealed. When I pushed down slightly on the arm, air flowed freely through the nipple. Another thing that I just noticed is that this carburetor did not come with a diaphragm disc (#14 in the diagram below). I have been told that some carburetors came with it and some did not. It seems that it would be needed when priming to push the diaphragm back up? Any help that any of you can give me will greatly appreciated...!!

Thank you for your reply. Do you have or do you know of anyone that has ball type diaphragm body that they would be willing to sell?

Ball....what ball...?? I opened up the carburetor up this morning and to my surprise, there is not ball inside. It has a rubber pad attached to the lever arm (see pictures). From there it just got worse. I went to reinstall the lever arm and spring and the black rubber pad fell off the arm. It has a tab that goes through the arm and that tab broke off. So now I am up the creek without a paddle. Is it possible that someone would have one of those arms or do I need to find another carburetor?

I have been restoring vintage chainsaws for customers around the country for over twenty years and I know all the Tillotson, Walbro and Zama carbs like the back of my hand, but this little O&R carb amazes me. There is a lot going on in a very small package. I will let you know the final results. Thanks again for your help.

I know just the hardware store to go visit. Thanks again...!!

Thank you so much. Does any one on here have those balls for sale? My thought is that if I am going to remove it to inspect it, it would be wise to have a new one on hand in case the old one is worn or rusted. Thanks...

Hi again to all of you experienced O&R engineers. I have a question and I know one or more of you has the answer. I have a Tiny Tiger 300 generator. When I push the prime button on the top of the carburetor, I can see the fuel flowing back to the tank instead of towards the carburetor. So, I have not been using the primer. When the unit is cold, I move the lever to full choke and within three to four pulls, it fires. Then I move the lever to half choke and then to no choke and it runs fine. So it does run fine without using the primer, but I would like the primer to work as well. So my question is why is the primer not working like it is suppose to. Seems to me that there is a check valve somewhere in that carburetor that is not functioning ? As I mentioned, when I push the primer button, it is pushing the fuel from the carburetor into the tank. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Just O&R - Thank you so much...!!

I am a newbie here and also new to the O&R Tiny Tiger generators. I had to remove the carburetor to unblock the fuel inlet and to install a new kit. While the carb was off and apart, what looks like a small locator pin fell out of it and I have spend hours trying to figure where it goes. It is a black solid straight pin about 1/4" long and about 3/32" wide. It looks like a small black grain of rice. Does anyone have a clue where this pin goes? Thanks in advance.