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I had been looking at that and have used it before, but it has to go over primer. I'm guessing as I'm talking about bodging it, using it is as good bodge as anything.
I think I will leave it as is and wait until I have time to do it properly.
thanks for the help
Jon
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I got a new engine and going to order a new crank....this will not beat me!
jonnym
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That looks smashing. What did you paint it with?
jonnym
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Hello
I'm thinking of doing a light restoration to a couple of bits of equipment.
I know sand strip prime/acid etch then spray is the best way to go, however a house renovation(stopping it from falling over) and a young family preclude spending so much time on it.
Is there a paint which I can do a light rub down, degrease then spray or hand paint with out bare metal or primer.
Is hammerite smooth the devils own paint or would it be OK. Its no where as good as it used to be before they got rid of the xylene.
Just to note this is not on very old or valuable (historically or cost) things.
Thanks
Jonnym
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Hahahah brilliant. Not much difference in handling characteristics to my Isuzu Trooper.
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Wow what a day.
I forged forward determined to find the error. The fly wheel won't come off, I swear this rotovator is cursed.
I've tried my fly wheel remover on my slide hammer, which didn't work, so I used it as a normal fly wheel remover using the screw holes for the starter wheel(not sure what its called), and a bolt on end of the crank, I torqued it up really tight and kept giving it a good clout round the edge with a hide hammer. Still nothing, short of getting my extension bar out and swinging off it I'm stumped.
I think that the starting issues could be to do with the timing being off and the woodruff key mangled up in it, although I can't believe that didn't give way to the brute force it was under.
I think I should give it up as a bad job.
Jonnym
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I've had the head off and the valves are all fine, yes the plug gets wet.
I've just been out taking the fly wheel of and end of the crank shaft has shear while removing the bolt. Looks like it had a large inclusion at the break point, I used almost no pressure, while undoing it. So I'm going to use it for target practice. Or fit a new engine.
The fly wheel still won't budge, so fitting a new crank shaft might not be an option(just seen one on ebay). I've been quite rough with it as well to get my own back, and still nothing. I think its been left outside for a long period by the previous owner.
Thanks
Jon
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I was looking for a manual for my old Westwood and noticed a lot for sale on eBay. However they are available free but the link is buried deep in google so here you go;
http://www.westwoodtractors.com/how-can-we-help/user-manuals
Manuals for models back to the mid 80's
hope that helps someone.
Jonnym
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I've just been tinkering again. I've covered the HT lead completely in tape and checked the spark. Its not strong at all, not a nice blue strike just a small yellow one.
Could be one of two things, the HT lead connection at the coil/magneto end or the fact its kept outside under cover and the damp, condensation has got into the coil causing it to have weak spark.
What do you think?
Jonnym
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The other thing I meant to say is I'm working outside and its too light to see the quality/colour of the spark. I can't see any obvious damage to the HT lead, but it is leaking as it sometimes shocks me when holding it, and it does have some travel in and out of hole leading to the coil . Does any one know how the the HT lead attaches, is it bonded or screwed? I was hoping to find a nick in the HT as at least then I could have soldered a new section to it.
thanks again
Jonnym
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No the plug swap didn't work.
This is my logic, The jets aren't blocked and its got fresh fuel, so even if the jets aren't set up it would try to start even if if it was just a couple of pops.
There appears to be compression although I don't have a gauge and there was nothing to indicate there wouldn't be when I had the head off.
The plug is working as I've swapped it for the one in the mower.
So its either no fuel or no spark. I'm leaning towards spark as its not trying to start at all although like I said its definitely producing a spark and can give me a good shock.
I will try wrapping the whole of the HT lead I can get to in tape just to rule out it having a nick.
Whats the process for replacing the HT lead once all the cowels are off?
There is not a plug cap, its the open loop of copper type with no obvious fault, but I will take a closer look at it tomorrow. Would a meter be any help in diagnosing this?
thanks for the help
Jonnym
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I'm at the Basil Faulty stage now and beating it with a branch
I put the lawn mower plug in the rotovator, after mowing the lawn and nothing.
I put the plug from the rotovator in the mower and it started first time.
What next. I wonder if its spark isn't strong enough. although it gives me a belt when I hold the end of the cable and plug at the same time.
Jonnym
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Yes will try I think I have a spare somewhere. Although I can see there looks to be spark. If this doesn't work I will try pouring the rest of the fuel all over it and seeing if its fresh enough to catch fire
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Petrol was fresh about a week ago as I always drain it all to over winter. Easy start doesn't have any effect either. I've just restripped the carb and its jets are not blocked.
There seems to be compression, turning by hand with out the plug in sucks my finger. I'm baffled.
jonnym
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Hello again.
I've got the rotavator out and once again its being a bugger.
It wouldn't start, so I checked for spark, all OK, it had a new plug last year used once. I've stripped and cleaned the carb so I know the jets aren't blocked and put on a new gasket. I positioned both jets to one turn out.
Still it won't start, but I did destroy the already ailing pull starter trying. So off comes the head, none of the bolts were more than finger tight, except one which sheared. The cylinder head gasket looks like it had seen better days and could have been leaking. Inside all looks fine, no sticking valves, no scoring or damage to the piston liner. So a quick decoke, new gasket, drill out the old bolt and all back together, with the addition of a new pull starter mechanism. STILL WON'T START!!! Now its just trying my patience. So off comes the pull start and I adapt the broken one fit my drill. guess what....nothing it won't start. Its just sat there like an over grown yellow paper weight.
Looking at the spark plug I don't think its getting fuel so before I order new jets, is there any thing I've missed (apart from hitting it with a large hammer)?
Thanks again
Jonnym
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Thanks again, great info as usual.
The leak was quite large. The top plate was a wash with oil and I could see it coming out!
I will try resealing the gasket and see how I go.
The choke has the spring assembly with it and there is slight resistance, I wonder If I have a problem further up the carb forceing it, also as you can imagine as its on a rotovater it does jump around alot exasperating it.
Thanks again
Jon
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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Sorry for the late reply.
Thanks for the image, I made a spring to the dimensions in the image from welding wire which works temporarily and rotovated my mothering laws veg patch. I won many brownie points and got to know the machine a little better.
I need to look at the carb again as I couldn't get it to run right at all, is the coke meant to be loose as it moved on its own while the engine ran. I noticed when I bought it that the previous owner had positioned the air filter to regulate the choke!
More worrying is the fact that the small plate behind the exhaust leaks oil badly. To remove it and reseal it I will have to remove the exhaust, which looks original and not an easy prospect. Do these leak from there often?
Thanks again
Jon
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Yes all makes perfect sense now. I will make up or find a spring to test further, although using my finger to always apply pressure has no effect, I think the governor spring is also at fault (sorry to bang on about it). I can see the spring has been pulled so it has open coils even unattached, also it is quite obvious the hook to the throttle has also been been made of one of the coils rather than a purpose built hook, so I think its been damaged and bodged.
I think this is why without my biro spring bodge its never returning far enough to allow the throttle cable to have any effect even with pressure applied to the throttle cable mechanism.
Ebay isn't any help for the governor spring any recommendations?
Thanks once again for all the help, it invaluable.
thanks
Jon
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Ive had 20mins to have a play today and managed to cobble together a return spring as in photo. I did it just to prove to myself this was the issue.
It now revs with the accelerator.
So why is it not returning on its own? I'm guessing the governor spring should force it closed?
Heres a video showing it running, this was while still slightly cold and before tuning it. It's running far more nicely now, but I could do with being pointed towards a tuning guide to get it perfect. https://youtu.be/o9tYIAa91cM
Also see attached the plate on the engine just for nerd value.
Thanks again for all the help
Jon
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Sorry for some reason tapa talk wouldn't upload the images.
Here they are.
Jon
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Thanks for the info once again.
I whipped the float chamber off the carb and took some photos of the accelerator all with the cable at the stop position resting against the electronic stop.
As you can see at rest the butterfly is wide open and the external bar is not returning to its closed position. In the other photo I'm closing the butterfly manually, it all looks to be lined up OK.
Where the different lenghts of springs which attach to the govenor? I'm I missing something?
Looking at how it all works using the choke to regulate the speed in the short term doesn't look like a dreadful idea, but I would prefer it working correctly.
Could you post a photo of your suffolk carb side on showing the spring etc.
Thanks again
Jon
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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Fantastic info again!
The photos are invaluable
I will whip it off and take a look tomorrow.
Thanks again
Jon
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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Yes that spring is quite important, I hadn't realised there should be one there. I tried to over come the problem with cable ties, which works up to a point.
Yes the recoil start has seen some abuse but its not slipping currently, though it does need replacing. Do you have a link to the recoil start assembly on ebay?
Ive managed to free the jet using your hot water method. It was completely blocked. The Jet was a real pain to clear out but I managed it.
It hasn't helped the throttle problem however. I think the issue might be with the spring on the govener, as the bar which is brased in the photo, which opens the butterfly, never comes any where near close to the end of its stop adjuster screw.
This means when I'm setting the carb up the butterfly is always open too much. I need to fashion a spring to return it to its closed position to test my theory and if correct source another spring.
Still all in all not bad for £12.50!
Thanks again for all the help please keep it coming!
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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Excellent advice/info. I thought the engine was original and looked like the super model. Even though it has the smaller engine it seemed to have bags of power.
It would be good to get the return spring on there so a photo would be great.
I forgot to mention it has odd wheels so need to look out for another wheel and assembly. I might strip it over winter and repaint it as well.
Does anyone know where I could source spares for it? The engine and carb are quite easy the rest is proving difficult.
thanks for the info
Jon
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