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jonnym

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About jonnym
 
 
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    UK Bedfordshire
 
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  1. jonnym

    jonnym

  2. I had been looking at that and have used it before, but it has to go over primer. I'm guessing as I'm talking about bodging it, using it is as good bodge as anything. I think I will leave it as is and wait until I have time to do it properly. thanks for the help Jon
  3. I got a new engine and going to order a new crank....this will not beat me! jonnym
  4. That looks smashing. What did you paint it with? jonnym
  5. Hello I'm thinking of doing a light restoration to a couple of bits of equipment. I know sand strip prime/acid etch then spray is the best way to go, however a house renovation(stopping it from falling over) and a young family preclude spending so much time on it. Is there a paint which I can do a light rub down, degrease then spray or hand paint with out bare metal or primer. Is hammerite smooth the devils own paint or would it be OK. Its no where as good as it used to be before they got rid of the xylene. Just to note this is not on very old or valuable (historically or cost) things. Thanks Jonnym
  6. Hahahah brilliant. Not much difference in handling characteristics to my Isuzu Trooper.
  7. Wow what a day. I forged forward determined to find the error. The fly wheel won't come off, I swear this rotovator is cursed. I've tried my fly wheel remover on my slide hammer, which didn't work, so I used it as a normal fly wheel remover using the screw holes for the starter wheel(not sure what its called), and a bolt on end of the crank, I torqued it up really tight and kept giving it a good clout round the edge with a hide hammer. Still nothing, short of getting my extension bar out and swinging off it I'm stumped. I think that the starting issues could be to do with the timing being off and the woodruff key mangled up in it, although I can't believe that didn't give way to the brute force it was under. I think I should give it up as a bad job. Jonnym
  8. I've had the head off and the valves are all fine, yes the plug gets wet. I've just been out taking the fly wheel of and end of the crank shaft has shear while removing the bolt. Looks like it had a large inclusion at the break point, I used almost no pressure, while undoing it. So I'm going to use it for target practice. Or fit a new engine. The fly wheel still won't budge, so fitting a new crank shaft might not be an option(just seen one on ebay). I've been quite rough with it as well to get my own back, and still nothing. I think its been left outside for a long period by the previous owner. Thanks Jon
  9. I was looking for a manual for my old Westwood and noticed a lot for sale on eBay. However they are available free but the link is buried deep in google so here you go; http://www.westwoodtractors.com/how-can-we-help/user-manuals Manuals for models back to the mid 80's hope that helps someone. Jonnym
  10. I've just been tinkering again. I've covered the HT lead completely in tape and checked the spark. Its not strong at all, not a nice blue strike just a small yellow one. Could be one of two things, the HT lead connection at the coil/magneto end or the fact its kept outside under cover and the damp, condensation has got into the coil causing it to have weak spark. What do you think? Jonnym
  11. The other thing I meant to say is I'm working outside and its too light to see the quality/colour of the spark. I can't see any obvious damage to the HT lead, but it is leaking as it sometimes shocks me when holding it, and it does have some travel in and out of hole leading to the coil . Does any one know how the the HT lead attaches, is it bonded or screwed? I was hoping to find a nick in the HT as at least then I could have soldered a new section to it. thanks again Jonnym
  12. No the plug swap didn't work. This is my logic, The jets aren't blocked and its got fresh fuel, so even if the jets aren't set up it would try to start even if if it was just a couple of pops. There appears to be compression although I don't have a gauge and there was nothing to indicate there wouldn't be when I had the head off. The plug is working as I've swapped it for the one in the mower. So its either no fuel or no spark. I'm leaning towards spark as its not trying to start at all although like I said its definitely producing a spark and can give me a good shock. I will try wrapping the whole of the HT lead I can get to in tape just to rule out it having a nick. Whats the process for replacing the HT lead once all the cowels are off? There is not a plug cap, its the open loop of copper type with no obvious fault, but I will take a closer look at it tomorrow. Would a meter be any help in diagnosing this? thanks for the help Jonnym
  13. I'm at the Basil Faulty stage now and beating it with a branch I put the lawn mower plug in the rotovator, after mowing the lawn and nothing. I put the plug from the rotovator in the mower and it started first time. What next. I wonder if its spark isn't strong enough. although it gives me a belt when I hold the end of the cable and plug at the same time. Jonnym
  14. Yes will try I think I have a spare somewhere. Although I can see there looks to be spark. If this doesn't work I will try pouring the rest of the fuel all over it and seeing if its fresh enough to catch fire
  15. Petrol was fresh about a week ago as I always drain it all to over winter. Easy start doesn't have any effect either. I've just restripped the carb and its jets are not blocked. There seems to be compression, turning by hand with out the plug in sucks my finger. I'm baffled. jonnym
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