jonnym

OK I see what your saying. They did a Cultimatic Super with a Suffolk 98, a Cultimatic Special with a briggs and stratton 3hp and a Cultimatic deluxe with a 4hp Briggs and Stratton. I think (although I'm not sure) I have seen a plate on it saying Suffolk. That said if it got another 1hp that's fine with me! thanks Jon

I have a good range of small drill bits in many increments, which is probably a better bet. I was going to buy a new jet and remove the existing one buy tapping it to allow a bolt to be used with a little heat. Your trick will save me alot of time! Thanks again jon

Nice idea using a dart. I might have to find a nail as I don't have a dart. I haven't notices any Briggs and Stratton bits on there, which bit do you mean? thanks Jon

Hello all. I've recently bought a Qualcast Cultimatic with an alloy Suffolk 98 engine and Zenith carb (which I think makes it an old one) from ebay. It was bought as a non runner, but on the plus side it was local. I put £60 as my highest bid and won it for £12.50! I cleaned out the tank, removed stripped and cleaned the carb, stuck in a new plug with a dash of easy start, fresh oil, and tĥen a dash of easy start in the air intake and it started third pull. The problem I'm having is the throttle doesn't seem to have any effect, I have to set it on the choke. The carb and throttle spring seem to be setup correctly. The only part of the carb which didn't get cleaned was the long jet as I couldn't remove it with out damaging it. Number 21 in the PDF below. The other worry is the bracket where the spring attaches has been brazed, I'm slightly worried they have done this insitu which has fried the butterfly inside. What do you think? thanks Jon Zenith carb0001.pdf

It happens when the feed gets over tightened. Ive not had to use that fix yet as the problem hasn't arrisen yet. That said I have added a second circuit board to prevent the wire run on which is a god send. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Just to let you know I found a disc on line. Its been a marathon setting it all up but Ive got it cutting great now. Just in time to pack it away for winter.[emoji37] Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Where in the country is he? Im about to travel from Bedfordshire to Derbyshire so could pick it up if its close!

Hello. My ever increasing garden machines now includes a Westwood t1200. Its got a few issues to sort out but its generally in very good condition. The 36"contra cut deck has the most issues. The previous owner swapped one of the swing blades and disc for a straight blade. The problem is my garden is quite rough and when the fix blade hits the ground it jams and strips the toothed timing belt. I can't find anyone who stocks the disc which the swing blades attach to as there now obsolete. The disc is 13" in diameter. Any ideas? Thanks Jon

I thought I had replied to you both, my tapatalk must have mucked up. I've looked at CV boots etc online none seem the right size, I need to find a local supplier who will let me have a good root round his stock. I will most likely end up making one from leather if mine splits and I can`t find one, fingers crossed I can save it. @The Fife Plooman: I managed to get the rotavator working as it should after reading your post a while back, I gave the rear PTO pin a smack and it all started behaving Sorry I must have forgotten to thank you My plan at the moment is to get the gator out the way sufficiently to split the UJ, not sure exactly how I'm going to achieve that yet as I usually use a vice, but I think its probably the easiest solution as the UJs are hopefully a standard off the shelf item. That way I can get the tractor mobile and use it while also getting better access to the PTO pins. I think a slide hammer might be the answer to removing the PTO pins and it gives me another opportunity to buy another tool! GAV hows your rotavator restoration coming along? thanks for the help Jon

Hello Been a long while, but I'm still struggling to free the rotovator. I've welded a nut on to the top of the PTO pin and still can't remove it! Does anyone know where I could buy a relacement gator like the one in the above diagram? I fear I'm going to have to cut it off. Thanks Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

I've not removed the rubber gater covering the universal joint yet to take a poke around. I've removed the clips holding it, but the gater has hardened and I'm loathed to split it trying to remove it completely, as I'm sure it will be a bugger to replace, one of the reasons I was doing it at this point was it was one of the hottest days of the year and I hoped the rubber would be slightly more plyable. Looking at the diagram if I remove the number 9 bolts would I still need to either split the universal joint or remove the circlip and bearing (and is the bearing hydraulically pressed in) to split it? I was hoping that rather than making days more work I could just tackle the PTO pin problem... Really I should know better. Thanks again Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Hello sorry for the long absence from this thread. Ive been trying again to free the PTO pins with out any luck. My theory is that the item number 22 on the diagram is brass and is sticky. On the drawing I can't see anything but a straight pin so would it be a problem if it span through 360 degrees? My plan is to make an extractor, using a tall section of steel box with a piece of threaded bar down it. On the end a nut retaining a piece of steel strip bent into a flat U with holes in to meet the hole in the PTO pin. On the top a large thick washer and a nut. This way I can use the threaded bar to pull the pin up a bit then hammer it down working it with penetrating oil. It should have the effect of rotating it as well. I hope I explained that adequately. Does that sound like a good or terrible idea? What would the pit falls of winding all the way out be. Also as both handles are not attached which way does it turn to be released and engaged? As always thanks for all your help Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Ohh thats as dry as a witches sense of humour, about the same condition as my finger mower. Can you still get the oil seals for the rotavator shafts. Mines got a leak on it. My new sd card should arrive on Thursday so I can take a few images then. Anything specific? Where could I get an explosion diagram of the tractor and accessories? Or at at least diagrams like the one you attached Gav? I shall be getting the welder out tomorrow if the weather holds. I can't see another way of getting the pto pins out without using heat. The stilson is going to shread the top of the pin at least with welding I can grind it back down again. I'm amazed how robustly these things are made, I doubt in 50-60 years that many modern mini tractor s will still be around. Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Lol big brother is watching. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

What do the reduction hubs do? I think I've been told it does have them. I have phone camera issues currently. The card is corrupt and deleting images as I take them so the images will have to be taken when my new card arrives. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Thanks Gav. Yes big problems removing the rotavator. The pins are seized and bolts are shearing. See photos below. I don't know about the hubs, how could I tell? Yes im using the clutch for the PTO and there going in to the grooves. I've tried all the positions only the land speed is working. The bolts have sheared for the bracket that held on the rotovator cover. Only one was fitted in properly one was missing and the other was about half an inch proud. The two bolt sheared very easily, I barely leant on them. Ive ran my tap down the hole of the missing one and it feels OK now. The PTO pins had the lifting arms on them but the retaining pins have snapped on both. The actual pins holding the PTO on are stuck fast. I've sprayed a load of wd40 on them tonight, given one of them a good smack with a persuader and had a stilson on it which didn't work. My plan is to weld bolts and washers on to the sheared bolts and remove them like that. I might also do the same for the PTO pins as the heat should help release them and I can use the ratchet on them, that is unless there is somthing that could get damaged inside? Any thoughts Thanks for your help Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Hello My Allen Motostandard Superior, based on a gutbrod 1030, has a PTO issue. The rotavator will only run at the wheel speed and not the engine speed. The lever seems to have little to do with it! The lever moves with very little resistance, it some times stops spining and some times runs with the wheel speed (strong enough to ruin my lawn [emoji15]). Im going to remover the rotavator tonight, if I can work out how, to check the PTO. But any tips on how it should be used? What spinning speeds depth ect. Thanks Jon Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Not sure "fair condition" really describes it(I try not to call my vehicles she as the always seem to break down when I do!). I will look at renovating the ancillary bits with no paint an look again at the body work Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk Thanks gav694 looks just the job Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the welcome everyone! I will post more pictures as I go along. Its going to be used plenty. My prority is the mowerdeck as I have an acre of lawn to cut also the veg patch to rotavate, tge rotavator works ok by the look of it. I can also see plenty of use for the bucket and forks. Whats the general concensus with the paint work? Repaint or touch up? Do people restore them back to new condition or is it better to try to keep them looking abit vintage? Are the head light lenses avalible, there made originally by hella Are the keys universal and can i get a replacement as mine have gone missing. Thanks for any help Jon Posting by phone please forgive the typos.

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Hello I new to the forum and mini tractors, so be gentle with me! Here’s my little Allen Superior based on a gutbrod 1030 with a few of its toys(see photos), there’s a front bucket, forks, hydraulic pump and frame, hydraulic arms, a rotavator, snow plough(grader) and a sprayer and finger mower not in the photos. I’m the third owner, the tractor was bought second had by my father and kept in v good condition, unfortunately it was lent to someone who kept it for 18 years in very poor way and it is now in the condition you can see in the photos. I understand that the hydraulics should fit despite them never being fitted. I’ve had it started today in a cloud of white smoke. There may be some water in the fuel, or it may have oil getting passed the piston rings, hopefully its just because it hasn’t been run for a while and the oil has leaked through. I have a mountain of questions to ask, as I would like to get all the bits working, here’s a few just to kick things off. Few I’m in the market for a mower deck for it if anybody knows of one. Failing that either a bodged one from a different machine if anybody has any suggestions, or a pull one of some kind. Its exhaust is the worse for wear and it's very very noisy at the moment, where is the best place to buy a replacement exhaust? Thanks for any help Jon