Tiny Tiger 350 restore

[Wallfish 698]

Had thiis TT 350 around for a while and decided it was time to clean her up. Took some pics through the process to show a tutorial on how to take the components apart, what to look for and how I repaired it.

Same process for the 300 model which seems to be a more common unit compared to the 350

[Wallfish 698]

2 screws on the bottom are taken out to remove the generator and engine from the tank.

 

 

To separate the generator from the engine remove the 2 screws which hold the generator parts together.

 

 

First remove the band if there is one which just clips on and off. You can see the band in the first pic.

Be careful when separating the components. The winding section (middle) and the outer section with the AC plug need to be removed together since they are wired together.  I used a piece of wood that was near by to tap the sections loose.

 

[Wallfish 698]

After separating the parts, I noticed that the wire insulation was dried, cracked and parts missing. This will get even worse if the components are pulled apart but they can be fixed.

 

 

Here is a better view of the cracked insulation

 

 

Using heat shrink tube, the wires were repaired and connected back together using small grey wire nuts

 

 

All back together and wires tucked down and out of the way

 

 

 

[Wallfish 698]

Now the magnet core which spins inside the windings needs to be separated from the engine. First remove the bolt holding them together

 

 

I clamped the core lightly in a vice and taped the edge of the generator cover with a RUBBER mallet while holding the engine and spinning it from side to side to hit opposite sides until it came loose.

 

 

Core separated from engine

 

[Wallfish 698]

Now the last cover for the generator can be removed from the engine.

Remove the 4 screws holding the cover to the engine. Be careful after removing those screws! The induction section of the engine is also held on by these screws and can easily separate from the engine. There are roller bearings inside that can easily fall all over when that section of the engine is removed. Not usually a problem if you're ready for them but a real pain searching for them when they fly out and you're not ready.

I used a small screwdriver to separate the pieces without removing the induction section from the engine.

 

 

 

[Wallfish 698]

Here's a drawing for the generator parts

[Wallfish 698]

The cardboard insulator piece was warped from moisture and originally rubbed the fan. I soaked it in water until somewhat soft and then clamped it between 2 pieces of flat steel to dry. Heated it with a torch to speed up the drying process and it came out flat as a pancake like it should be.

[Wallfish 698]

This engine was also completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt with new parts, seals ect. but that's for another thread for restoring an engine.

[Wallfish 698]

The manual recommends using a flat head screwdriver to pry the generator halves for separating them. 

[MajorH 0]

Hey Wallfish did you ever create the engine assembly thread?  I just picked up one of the Tiny Tiger 300's, I've taken apart the engine and carb and reassembled and I still can't get it to turn over.  I'm wondering what I did wrong. 

 

Does the carb prime with the button?  Mine does not.  The carb gasket could also be a little loose on my setup.

[Wallfish 698]

3 hours ago, MajorH said:

Hey Wallfish did you ever create the engine assembly thread?  I just picked up one of the Tiny Tiger 300's, I've taken apart the engine and carb and reassembled and I still can't get it to turn over.  I'm wondering what I did wrong. 

 

Does the carb prime with the button?  Mine does not.  The carb gasket could also be a little loose on my setup.

 

Different people call things different. To me, not turning over means the engine will not spin.

 

Yes, the primer button should move fuel into the carb. There's lots of reasons why it wouldn't but a new diaphragm will help. Go through this carb tutorial post too

Do you mean it will not start or it will not turn over

[MajorH 0]

It won't start, the engine spins freely.  I added some carb cleaner to the air inlet and had it running for a few secs but it didn't pull any fuel in.  So I'm guessing the gasket which is a little warped is likely not sealing where it should...?  I'll go through the tutorials and see if I missed something, thanks for posting them.

 

It looks like you might sell the gaskets, do you still have them?

[Wallfish 698]

54 minutes ago, MajorH said:

It won't start, the engine spins freely.  I added some carb cleaner to the air inlet and had it running for a few secs but it didn't pull any fuel in.  So I'm guessing the gasket which is a little warped is likely not sealing where it should...?  I'll go through the tutorials and see if I missed something, thanks for posting them.

 

It looks like you might sell the gaskets, do you still have them?

Which gaskets are you referring to? The orange pieces that get installed between the carb and the engine?

Don't run on carb cleaner or any spray stuff. Use some of the oil mixed fuel. Spray stuff doesn't have any lubrication and that's just like running a 4 stroke engine with no oil in it.

-First thing to check is the carb. Use a piece of clean fuel line connected to the fuel inlet on the carb. You should not be able to blow air into it unless you push the primer button. Same for suction. If it's leaking there's a problem as the little bearing ball is not sealing the hole. That ball check valves the fuel flow so it only flows in one direction. With leaks, it will just allow fuel to go back and forth and therefore not feed to the carb. If it leaks then you need to clean and follow the carb tutorial to get it to seal. Maybe change the bearing. there were 2 sizes 1/16 and 3/32. Old school local hardware stores may still have some in the "Hillman" drawers

-There must be a pliable diaphragm. These small little engines don't produce a lot of pressure and vacuum pulse which is how the diaphragm pulses to actually pump fuel. A stiff diaphragm will not quiver enough from the low pressure/vacuum pulse from the case and therefore not pump fuel or enough fuel if it is stiff.

-There should be a small plastic flap check valve installed in between the top diaphragm housing and the bottom carb body. it goes on top of that gasket. The flap covers that small fuel passage hole and also is a check valve to keep fuel only flowing in one direction 

-Check the screen in the hole of the lower carb body for debris. There was service bulletin to remove those screens if they're present but I typically clean and leave them in there.

-Pretty rare to have one of those thick orange gaskets be a problem but funny things happen when people mess with them and don't install them right. There should be 2 between the carb and engine. One side of each should be flat because that's how they mated and the other sides will have the circle indentations form the holes of the carb and engine. They appear the same and originally they were until they were squeezed by installation pressure. Take a close look at them and try to mate them to their original positions. I don't have any new orange gaskets but member @CNew Clint might still have some.

[MajorH 0]

I tried the suck/blow and when I blow there's no movement unless I push the valve down.  When I suck there is no movement at all regardless of the button.

 

The diaphragm is soft, but it may be a little too loose.  It has some imprint in it and it may be damaged as the previous owner had the diaphragm/metal insert order backwards.  The smaller check valve is certainly an issue in my carb though.  I thought it was seating well but when I took it apart again, it's not seating anywhere near the hole.  This diaphragm is also harder, so there's not much movement.

 

The screen I cleaned before, so it's ok.  After looking at the gaskets more, they're probably ok.  

[Wallfish 698]

Let me know if you need a diaphragm and or a little plastic check valve. Or there's a guy on ebay that sells them and thing he has some gaskets with it too. There should be 2 gaskets that go between the carb and the engine