Wallfish

It's not very common for one of these coils to fail, except the early models had a smaller tension plug wire that could more easily get damaged. I'm assuming your engine does not have spark. Have you cleaned the point contacts under the flywheel? If you parts are not damaged you may not need parts.

RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb. No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.

I'm fairly certain this would be the correct gearbox for one of those cars. You can see more details of it in this thread. The first engine and gearbox of the few engines rebuilt in early 2024

VERY NICE FIND!!!!!!!!!! I would love to get one of those and tried before to import one to the US. An engine would be the easy part to find so you're all set there but the correct gearbox MAY be required. The direction of the shaft spin and the rpm is what changes between the gearboxes. The drill gearbox will give you the correct direction of the shaft and probably the correct rpm because it does utilize 3 gears inside of it. The only questionable thing would be the way the gearbox mounts because the gear case itself is specific to the drills. You will need to adapt and make something for mounting it and also adapt a way to add the pulley/sheave. I would make that adapter for mounting some sort of bolt on type of thing vs making something permanent so it could always be switched back to use the original type correct gearbox. With something that rare, originality might be best just to keep the value of it. Please share pics as you go along if you can. They are very interesting pieces of history

I do remember someone posted one that could switch back and forth from gas to electric but I cannot seem to find it now. It could've been way back on the old forum before we switched to here. Lots of that info was lost

The original Aquabug gas tanks are fairly hard to come by. The cap has a little fold-able vent and when it's left closed the tank is sealed tight, then change in temperature will cause pressure which expands and contracts the air inside, and that cracks the plastic seems. That's exactly what happened to my first one so I learned to leave that vent open. Pretty sure many of them met their demise the same way when being stored.

OUCH

Personally I think they look better without the plastic cover and with a regular O&R gas tank, so maybe go with that until you can locate the proper tank and cover.

Yes, those older type coils are not a replaceable wire like the newer type coils are. You can repair it with a new wire but you're still soldering and repairing the insulation anyway. By just repairing/replacing the insulation on the old wire, it remains looking original. Plus, I don't know of any plug wire to repair it with.

That guide also explains how to repair the spring. By heating to cherry red then allowing it to cool . It can be bent back into shape without breaking it. Can you please ask question in a new tread or a different thread instead of the this carb tutorial. We need to keep it cleaner and especially so with questions that do not pertain to the carb.

Yes the carb cap hole should be there. The abbreviation NOS = New Old Stock I've repaired those cracked insulation wires. Removed the cracked insulation, coated with liquid electrical tape (a few coats), covered with shrink tube. It can be covered with different sizes of shrink tube over top of each other but it makes it kind of stiff Yes, any engine can "run away" with high RPM.

Yes, it's in very nice condition. I have 2 of those

What you have is one of the early engines. Wood tone handle instead of black, early coil, the blower housing screws are from the back instead of the heads on the front, no primer carb, jet screw on the side instead of the top, etc etc. All of those are normal things for an early type engine. There should be a hole in the bump on the top of the blower housing which holds a metal tab to ground the spark plug off to stop it. I'm not sure what you mean by it having a "single point". The points are under the flywheel and under that little cover that will be exposed after the flywheel is off. There are 2 point contacts that touch one another and probably need to be cleaned because they oxidize over time and that will prevent continuity because they aren't actually touching together. You can mix modern 2 stroke oil at 32:1 If the diaphragm in the carb is stiff it will need to be replaced in order for it to pump fuel.

I'm think'n I can repop one these bikes too just like the Micro bike was. Measurements would certainly be helpful but the Micro was done just by studying pictures.

I have not been able to locate one. @CNew is near you in AZ. Do you have one Clint? Is that all you have is a carb? Is it not on an engine? Or the engine used for a tool? That's what CNEW was asking is what engine or tool you have the carb for.