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Wallfish

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Wallfish last won the day on February 12 2018

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About Wallfish
 
 
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  • Website URL
    http://OhlssonandRice.com
  • Yahoo
    uremailing
 
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leicester. MA, USA
  • Interests
    Fishing
    Ohlsson & Rice engines
    Wheel Horse tractors
    Homelite XL-12 Powered tools
    Attending local antique engine shows
 
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  1. Many Compact engines were sold just as utility engines only and didn't necessarily have an intended purpose or tool to attach to them. That was up to the person who bought them. Model B came with that type of tank and the crank extension. Not sure exactly what's up with that particular tank venting set up.
  2. Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ? Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over
  3. Think there might be some 20A parts in the stuff I'm sending you. maybe some gaskets but I didn't go through it very thorough. I do have a couple of NOS reed valves for those in my parts stash. Is the compression release closing?
  4. I did a write up on doing one, it's on here somewhere. Isn't that a band which goes around the center of the generator separt?
  5. Send me a private message with your name and address. I have some diaphragms available. .
  6. That Lubriplate 105 liquefies pretty fast with just a little heat so I'm sure the friction of the gears takes care of that. Then most of it solidifies again but there's still an oily liquid part. Unless you plan on using them for doing actual work, I wouldn't worry about it at all. If it's just going to sit on a bench for display, probably best not to have the oil leak out
  7. The most interesting thing is " My brother was watching some old episodes of the "The Price is Right" from 1973 on YouTube "
  8. No, my mistake. I meant from that link you posted. I'll go out side and see if I can find my saw for some pics
  9. Didn't see anything referring to model 25 on there. Mine is all apart still sitting in the box but I'll pull it out and get some pics. The paint was horrible on these and think mine probably looks worse than that ebay pic for the rocket line.
  10. Looks like the same yellow as I recall but with a MONO brand round circle decal about the same size as that one. Has the same electrical conduit set up for extending to the air filter. The saw Jim bought was missing the bar cover and of coarse the decal, but he made a real nice replica using the one on mine as a pattern for both the cover and the decal.
  11. Also badged under Mono. I have one and sold one to @usedtoolman
  12. Get a can of this for soaking stuff. works much better for clean soaking the carbs plus you just use it over and over again. Dirty gas is a pain to get rid of. https://www.powersportsid.com/gunk/carburetor-and-parts-cleaner-with-drip-basket-mpn-cc3k.html?view=327493&utm_source=microsoft&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=268680876&utm_content=1176478073060724 Unfortunately the carb cleaners now-a-days are pussified because of the EPA standards and they don't work near as well as the old dangerous stuff did. Looks like you found a Chicken Power
  13. My go to cleaner for most of this stuff is gasoline and carb cleaner. Soaking parts overnight makes it easier and then spray it off with the carb cleaner. The paint can type carb cleaner works great for soaking parts and the carbs. Carb cleaner will quickly wipe out any decals. It'll remove paint too so use care and judgement. Also in the arsenal for cleaning are Q-tips, old tooth brushes, toothpicks, and compressed air plus anything else I can find
  14. If an alternative replacement U-cup seal in this particular weird size range for O&R continues to be non-existent Post the size of the seal for easier searching. That X style appears like it would be better than a simple O ring but... It's my thought the U cup style was used because the case pressure will tighten the seal from that case pressure pushing inside the U of the cup
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