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Wallfish

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Wallfish last won the day on April 21

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About Wallfish
 
 
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  • Website URL
    http://OhlssonandRice.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leicester. MA, USA
  • Interests
    Fishing
    Ohlsson & Rice engines
    Wheel Horse tractors
    Homelite XL-12 Powered tools
    Attending local antique engine shows
 
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  1. I have a 3/4 HP ohlsson & rice engine do you know where I can find carburetor parts I need the inlet check ball with the springy metal the hold down the arm to let the gas into the cow brighter can't find them anywhere do you know where I can get them I sent you a picture so you know what I'm talkin about I think you wrote the article with this picture came from

    Screenshot 2022-05-01 1.01.07 PM.png

  2. I was laughing watching that 1st one again. What, did you bore the cylinder, shave the head, add a bigger carb, port and polish? Or do something crazy like change the pulley size? LoL
  3. Found some smaller lights and put on the dual light set up. Looks more "factory" with them
  4. Outboard oil should never be used for lawn equipment or other 2 strokes as the oil is made differently. Yes, you can use 2 stroke oil, just don't use outboard oil.
  5. Try these. They seem to be downloading fine for me. Ohlsson & Rice Model 20A-256 Engine Diagram + Parts List.pdf Ohlsson & Rice Challenger Chain Saw Maintenance Manual.pdf
  6. Interesting. And they mention an Impact driver for a tool but never saw one of those Don't eat the exhaust gaskets! the manifold is insulated from the cylinder and crankcase by thick asbestos gaskets which extend out beyond the cylinder flanges
  7. The other thing you can try is adjusting the carb when the generator is under load. But it seems like you got
  8. Glad you got her going! 6300 rpm is typical for these little engines
  9. Ugh Oh, it also looks like the brass needle part with the threads is broken off in the hole of the lower carb body. Maybe just the pic but.. So far you'll probably need diaphragm material and a plastic check valve. Maybe a new needle valve seat too if that piece broke and possibly enough material to cut 2 diaphragms. Not a bad idea to make a new gasket too
  10. Here's my guestimate of the carb situation. But, do those other 2 pieces split as well? Looks like a gasket in between them or that is possibly an additional diaphragm using the case pulse to feed fuel. Line from case to carb but it appears like they might be connected backwards in your other pic, line from tank to carb. One nipple from the tank is the vent because the cap doesn't have a vent. The other nipple is the fuel feed line. With some fuel (or other liquid) in the tank use a piece of fuel line connected to the nipples and blow into them to determine which is which. One should bubble the liquid. (I'm guessing the lower one)That's the fuel line to the carb. The other should push liquid out of the other nipple, (I'm guessing the vertical one) that's the vent and just remains open with nothing attached. This should be the same thing for the tank nipples using a traditional carb too. If using a traditional carb, that case nipple will need to be closed off. ( I don't clearly remember but that tank nipple configuration does seem different for some reason, I'll have to take a look at a saw) It should probably still use the little plastic check valve piece that pinches in between on top of the bottom carb body but I don't see one. If you can't get it to work, I might be interested in trading a traditional carb for that one to play with. I don't have an engine with the case nipple but that shouldn't be to difficult to drill one. Might have a good chainsaw crank end engine to trade the whole thing for but I can look. Maybe I can rebuild one too but the time to do that might be a problem. Try it first and let me know if you're interested in trading and we can go from there if it doesn't work. I'm sure we can get you going either way.
  11. From my PM post and thanks for posting up on the forum too Hmmm, some of that looks very difficult to hand make and especially the writing on the little tabs for the choke position. That's a later model saw after Advanced Engine Products took over the O&R stuff. Wonder if they tried to build a better carb as the carb has always been the weak point with these little engines. Very interesting. Some pics of all of it from different angles and the inside when it's open might help to determine the way to place the fuel lines. The spacer in between the top and bottom is throwing me off a little because of those 2 fuel nipples. Wonder if it's intended to be in and out with out going to that third one you said is near the cylinder.
  12. You can find some on epay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=orline+manual&_sacat=0 There's not much to those saws so if you post some pics, we can usually help determine what if anything is missing
  13. I have some old Autolite P-6 10 mm plugs bought when I first started collecting
  14. UY-6 are the older 10mm plugs but there are cross references to other manufacturer's plugs. Same for the others Overwhelming majority of mine still have the original Champion plugs in them and fire fine.
  15. I'm guessing it sat to close to a fire or something. If it shorted and started melting that would stop very quickly because it's doubtful it could still be sending spark to the plug to keep it running. No running equals no electricity going through it. Although there's always a first time. Remove the flywheel and check the points under the cover. I'd assume those would also burn if the coil melted from the electricity running through it. There isn't much involved there to effect the new coil so I wouldn't be concerned at all about that. Yes, I'd be willing to send you parts. But, like you stated, shipping multiple packages isn't the best way so I'd suggest you dis-assemble that entire thing until we figure out exactly what all the parts are you need
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