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Wallfish last won the day on January 15

Wallfish had the most liked content!

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About Wallfish
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    Advanced Member
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    Leicester. MA, USA
  • Interests
    Ohlsson & Rice engines
    Wheel Horse tractors
    Homelite XL-12 Powered tools
    Attending local antique engine shows
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  1. No info from the seller? Once they enter the shipping info it's shows at least it was really shipped. If you see it never had ant of that info entered or it never showed it was picked up, then I would blame the seller.
  2. Exactly. These seals don't need to swell very much and the carb cleaner seems to soften them as well. It won't work for the hard brittle stuff but the ones that are still pliable and a little stiff, it should. Just another thing from the bag of tricks! Like Joe told me when I first got into these things, "You gotta be resourceful" Especially for the actual tool stuff attached to the engine. Be sure to share your results!
  3. Try soaking the old ones in spray carb cleaner. It swells the rubber. I have sprayed small engine carbs without removing the rubber bowl gasket by mistake. They swell enough to not fit back properly after carb cleaner. I'm not sure how long it lasts but I ended up throwing one out after couple weeks because it never did shrink back to fit. Or maybe I just didn't wait long enough. Try experimenting if you're up for it. Re-generizing those old seals would make them plentiful. Think there was a bunch of the induction side crank seals in that parts stash.
  4. Anything you're looking for? Think I have some used baffles but not many.
  5. The keys and the taper are the same. The shaft that was in that engine is for a different style engine and therefore it's longer. Plus it was only one side of a different shaft I believe. The other side was right or at least it works perfectly fine. I believe it's because the engine I have uses the plastic bearing cages and that longer shaft is from and engine with the newer roller bearing and 2 washers on the side. This is exactly where David always shines as he could probably provide exact part #s, exact measurements, which engines, DOM, ect. ect. That guy is incredible! Remove the plug and add a few drops of fuel mix and fire it up. That way you don't have to mess with the carb again. Carb adjustments can be made later if someone wants to run it.
  6. So a few of us have some NOS parts but if it's contents is anything like mine, there's an abundance of some but nothing for others. So, maybe some trading of parts will help diversify our portfolios, maybe not but might as well make an effort. I'll have to go through what's out there to inventory it. It's not a huge stash of parts but I'm willing to trade the multiples. Carb parts, besides diaphragms, nice recoil housings and the can type gas tanks are always a premium item. Off the top of my head, here's a few I have. NOS newer type governor veins Gov springs for the bottom of the carb There's about 6 or so air filters but those are a coveted item. I'd still be willing to share a couple new and old school high speed carb needles Induction side crank seals 1 or 2 recoil springs new points sets piston rings gearbox gaskets Autolite spark plugs equivalent to the 10 mm Champion UY-6 plugs wire holders for the recoil rope to the spool (but you can use common copper wire for these) For used parts carb diaphragm caps with the primer button Some check valve bottom halves with different fuel inlet locations Some heads different gearboxes. TT generator parts Misc engine parts I'm short on Mufflers Carb arm springs the smaller ball bearing for carb check valve (but I'll have to go check the drawers at the old hardware store again)
  7. Here's a long bristle brush, kind of expensive but... I typically get a bunch of cheapies at the engine shows from the vendors, they're like 3 for $1 but will maybe check this one out too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProLine-Nylon-Bristle-Grout-Brush-BWK9008/203175883 Old toothbrushes work well too for most things
  8. Haven't tried other brands yet. Picked this one off the shelf at Home Depot because it was cheap. It doesn't have a strong citrus smell either. Just very subtle. It's still a messy job. Forgot to mention I use a small bristle brush too, looks like a tooth brush but has longer bristles to reach down in there. There's also citrus paint remover which works well. The wife had some so I stole the bottle one day to try. It works well but not as fast as solvent based but the trade off is worth it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-32-oz-Citrus-Degreaser-21568948601/203420801
  9. So far I'm a big fan of using the citrus degreaser. It doesn't stink so it can be used in the house. This allows me more opportunity to get stuff done during the winter months and late in the evening. It works well for cutting through the common 2 stroke oil grime on these engines and attachments. This engine plate was done late last night in my office, going out to do it in the shed is a big hassle and cold so it won't happen. It took about 15-20 minutes using paper towels and some Q-tips. I use a small bucket to spray over and the small parts thrown in the bottom get soaked by the dripping excess at the same time. I have an old gas tank with old gas and that stink so I'll try that outside and see what happens. Hopefully neutralizes that horrible stink. BEFORE AFTER. There's still some minor little spots in the nooks and crannies but that happens with solvent too. Typically I'll use a toothpick to scrape those clean. The wood doesn't scratch
  10. I used to get'm ALL running tested and adjusted but they just sit there for display. If fuel goes through them the carbs will need to be gone through again anyway. Some possibly the points from sitting so now they just get cleaned and assembled. It's the old gas residue in them that causes more problems. The next guy can tinker and tune.
  11. It was the wrong crank shaft in that engine which protruded out too far. Swapped it out with another type and all is good now. The spare shaft I had is with the 2 key ways but that taper is the same as the others. The key ways fit with the old school clutches with the cork like pads . I'm just leaving the newer type engine on there and will keep the rebuilt one for the next project.
  12. I already have WAY too many chainsaws for someone that doesn't burn wood. It's definitely a cool saw with the big engine. PM me what you want to offer him and I'll give it a shot for you. That way it'll be ready when you are if they accept.
  13. Looks great! Someday I'll get to mine. Missing the little cooling baffle. Think I have some
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