Bolens 1556 Tin Work

[HeadExam 1,783]

A friend gave me a orbital air powered disc sander and I am going over the tin on the 1556 with it. I've got a few small spots to ding out and a few to putty over then I will be ready for sanding/building primer. I really like this type of primer because it really makes the surface look new again. The decals took the most time to remove, after using a heat gun to remove the top layer, I had two more layers of clear to remove. I think I need some tips on removing decals. I'm doing a lot of hand sanding as well and will move to a finer grit soon. I hope to have the 1556 looking as if it did when it was the 27th one built and rolling off the assembly line.

[Triumph66 1,256]

Looking good Alain. Out of interest what is the paint code for your Bolens?

[HeadExam 1,783]

There really weren't paint codes for Bolens, mostly names, but I had the paint custom matched. I can give you the formula after I pick it up. This color is one of there toughest to find or match. its not the almond or white they had used in the past, made from around 1970-1972 its a greenish/grayish/white, it was used on most all the tractors of that era even the small frames and large frames. I use the Rust-o-leum Regal Red for the wheels and deck, it is a tad lighter, but anytime you can find a premix really close it will hold up better, especially in Red, Yellow, Orange, Blue, or Green, the Off Whites aren't too bad for color and gloss retention because there is not much colorant in them and as long as you add a little hardener to any of them they last years and years. The was no primer on most of these Garden tractors, just paint and Bolens after 1970 used a powder coat epoxy

[Triumph66 1,256]

Thanks.

My 1254 falls in the greenish/greyish white category as it was, I think, built in 1971.

M

[HeadExam 1,783]

Thanks.

My 1254 falls in the greenish/greyish white category as it was, I think, built in 1971.

M

I'll get a formula for you. I used a industrial enamel. I'm not sure whether they used white to make the color or a pastel tint base, but I will let you know. Industrial paints use different tint types than house paint or even other architectural oil base alkyds. One a side note these industrial enamels are high in solids and take a good amount of reducer, I'm fairly sure most of the paints over there are low V.O.C.s which reduce at a different rate.

[Triumph66 1,256]

Alain,

Originally I planned to keep the 1254 as found condition as I like the 'farm look'. However, having dropped it off at my mate's house yesterday, he suggested it was on the wrong side of patina. Having bought the 600 in its original weathered look; I am beginning to wonder if it need to be repainted at some point. It need to be up and running before I commit myself to any further expenditure.

I look forward to hear from your research into the paint codes.

Cheers

[HeadExam 1,783]

Alain,

Originally I planned to keep the 1254 as found condition as I like the 'farm look'. However, having dropped it off at my mate's house yesterday, he suggested it was on the wrong side of patina. Having bought the 600 in its original weathered look; I am beginning to wonder if it need to be repainted at some point. It need to be up and running before I commit myself to any further expenditure.

I look forward to hear from your research into the paint codes.

Cheers

Around here a gallon of good industrial enamel runs around 35.00 US, a pint of hardener about 16.00, and a gallon of reducer around 11.00 that will do two tractors, so under 65.00 will paint two complete tractors. I'll post paint codes here. Trust me, I know how it is to allot funds for tractor parts, I sometimes give up food, clothing, and utilities to do so.