Mcculloch Mite-E-Lite Generator with a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine

[Restomod 0]

I picked up this Mcculloch Mite-E-Lite generator a few weeks ago and I have been able to get it running but not that well. The generator works great but I want to get the engine running better. I haven't had much luck with finding the parts I need and Briggs considers the engine an antique so they only have a few things available. The engine is an 8hp Briggs and Stratton built in 1973 according to the model number. I am looking for the long jet and needle that screws into the bottom of the bowl on the carb, the breather hose and the foam air filter element that originally came on this engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, when it's running it sounds like it has some sort of knocking or maybe valve noise. I listened with a mechanic stethoscope but I don't hear anything that would point to a failing engine. If anyone has information or experience with this engine your input is welcome.

[C-101plowerpower 548]

i believe there are replacement carburetors readely available on ebay for not that much, briggs 3 bolt carb i think it is?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/398202-Main-Jet-Nozzle-Carb-Briggs-7-9-HP-Emulsion-Tube-2-Pc-Flo-Jet-OEM-New-/151840308366?hash=item235a633c8e:g:BGsAAOSwAodWE935

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Post your Engine Model, Spec and Serial numbers and maybe we can point you to where in the U.S. you can obtain what you need.

The 2 pics don't give much away, but I suspect your Carb may be the Medium 2 piece Flo-jet version, which has the short stubby High Speed Needle Valve?.

Sounds like you need a full Carb overhaul Kit to be sure all will be good.

They are pretty cheap (for you in U.S), but you need the correct Kit. Also if your model has a Fuel Pump (unlikely), it will need a different Float Valve Seat. 

EDIT- Use this part number/link for the Filter Element-  -LINK- 

Regards.

 

[Restomod 0]

Cool thanks for the info! I don't use eBay too much but if it's the only place where I can find these parts I will probably get them from there. Do you know where I can get the breather hose? While I was checking out the links you guys provided I looked for the hose but didn't see a listing for one. I would even be happy with a used one in decent shape. Here are some recent pictures of the Mcculloch. I started to remove the paint and I really like the way it looks without paint so I'm going to strip the engine entirely and see if I can find a clear coating that's heat resistant to protect it from rusting. The numbers aren't very easy to see in the pictures so here they are 190402  0722-01  73032110

Edited October 24, 2016 by Restomod
I forgot some information asked for.

[Restomod 0]

Pictures of the carburetor 

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Ok, No problem, you don't have to use Ebay, I use it as a default search engine as well as Google.

I use plenty of places in the States for parts like Partstree, RCPW, Mowers4u etc. All have their quirks and varying stock availability.

 

Thanks for the perfect clear images and the numbers, we can now find what you need by using part numbers.

 

I had anticipated and searched for the Breather Hose info using a different Engine Model number and it has thrown up a query for me.

There are 2 types (I know of) of Breather Unit Briggs used on this Engine type. Here are the 2 images from the IPLS-

 

   

 

As you can see, the one you want is on the right. The dilemma however is that both types have the same part number of 67068 !, so I can only assume they are made to fit both types. They are about $8.00 each so no big deal really. I'm sure you can make it fit.

 

As for Carb parts, Briggs don't produce a Carb Overhaul Kit anymore for your Medium 2 piece Flo-Jet Carb (nor do any aftermarket outlets like Stens), but you can obtain most of the the genuine parts individually-

     . 

Item 118 is the Needle Valve you should have on your Carb. Note the Tube Nozzle insert is not available, so  hopefully it is not damaged.

Here is a link to Partstree's data base  covering your engine model. NOTE when you ever need to search using your engine numbers, Replace the last 01 with 99.

 

Lastly, I believe your engine has an Alloy Crankcase and you mention cleaning it back to metal. I did the same thing on a Briggs powered Genset a few years ago, but did not need or use a lacquer to protect it, just a wipe over occasionally.

Here is a link to the Thread on here- 

  Edit- Forgot that you may want to lacquer the Steel Shrouds and possibly the Tank?. You can get heat resistant Clear Coat, but you need to check if it is Fuel Resistant?. If not, then you need Fuel Proof Clear Lacquer for the Tank and prone spill areas. Don't know what products are available in U.S.

[Restomod 0]

Thanks!! I really appreciate all your effort to help me out!! The reason I wanted the tube nozzle and the needle valve together is because when I was cleaning the carb and disassembling it the needle valve had a deep gouge in it from, what I think, it being over tightened. So I figured that if the needle was damaged the tube nozzle would have been damaged as well. How likely is it that the tube nozzle is damaged as well? To get the engine running to the point that I could test the generator I used light grit sandpaper to get the gouge down as much as possible then I polished out the scratches the sandpaper made with steel wool. The end condition was really good but the needle still doesn't seem to seat right. I tried to post pictures but I think each thread is only allowed so much space for uploads. If you have a suggestion for this please let me know and I'll post more pictures. Another question for you is how did you get the metal to shine so nicely when you did your generator? And how did you remove the paint from the engine cooling fins? I have been using a wire brush on my pneumatic angle die grinder to get the paint off but I didn't want to hit it too hard so I only went as far as removing the paint and a little surface rust. 

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Right, I've just did a Google search for the Carb Nozzle using this - briggs carb nozzle 390395 and it throws up loads of available options as NoS (new old stock) . 

So if yours is iffy, get a new one and the needle valve to ensure a good fit.

 

There is a limit to the total file size of your basic Forum membership, so you probably hit the limit. You can reduce your image file sizes on your Phone, PC or Laptop down to about 400kb. You can then edit your existing posts by removing the high file size images and replacing them with the reduced size images. I think you're restricted to 16mb.

Alternatively, if you're planning to be a frequent user of the Forum, consider being a 'Supporter' for $10 a year!. It will allow you unlimited uploads.

 

Finish on the Engine is all by hand. There was not a lot of paint on the Fins initially, but a lot of rough 'Casting Flashing'which I removed with various files. I sprayed the Fin areas with Silver Engine Enamel. The Crankcase had all the paint carefully chipped off as it came off easily. then progressive grades of 'Wet or Dry' Carbon Paper.

Final quick polish with 'T Cut' Auto Paint polishing compound (Old type, not the Metalic version).

 

[Restomod 0]

Do you have a lot of experience with these Briggs and Stratton engines? Are the older engines just loud? I'm not talking about exhaust noise but engine noise. My wife was given a piece of property and the electricity hasn't been run from the main line so I have been using a 5500 watt generator to power our travel trailer. It's a Troy-Bilt with a 10hp Briggs and Stratton. Now this 10hp engine sounds like a purring kitten compared to the 8hp roaring lion!!! Exhaust noise is about the same for both of them. I ask because I have some worry about the internal condition of the 8hp. Let me know what you think. Thanks 

[Mister Mad Mower 64]

I have an old Generac set that makes a lot of exhaust noise but the engine is sweet , But i have an extesion pipe with a 8" base plate so i can dig a post hole and cover the plate with soil sending the exhaust noise into the ground , so i can hear my engine running .

A way of doing this quick to check the actual noise of the engine is to run a pipe into a 5 gallon drum filled with water to deaden the noise .

A length of steel bar of around 3/8 diameter and 2 feet long allows you to place one end around the bearing positions of the engine and push the other end onto the little nobbly bit just up from the bottom front of your ear on the side of your head ( Not into your ear just onto the little nobble that sticks out pushing it into the ear opening ) This sends all the noise straight into your head .

Making it easy to locate any unusual noise eminating from the engine .

Lower outer will be the main bearings ( Grating scratching sound ), if it sounds to be around the shaft but duller ( you should be able to differentiate between the bearing  around and a bang ) it will be the big end bearing .( grab the main shaft to see if it has any lift / side to side movement also )

If you come up a little above the shaft and to the side you should hear the cam and bearings banging away at half the shaft speed .

If the noise is from the bottom of the cylinder and looses somewhat as you move up , getting louder again at the top it will be the little end bearing .

If it is a constant bang or tap at half the engine speed at the top then the valves are banging around .

Have a listen on the tappet cover to see if its all comming from bad adjustment .

The loudest horriblest noise is usually the fault .