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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on May 4

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About Anglo Traction
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    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
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  1. Sorry for the resurrection of this one, but thought those who watch Gardener's World (BBC uk) may see this mower (briefly) on this Friday's programme It's included in Clive Gravett's (of the Budding Foundation Museum of Gardening) 2nd instalment on the programme covering the history of the mower. It is also in the Atco Centenary Video on their website:- LINK within the 1950s period. So at least it's still earning it's keep with the Charity. Regards. Richard
  2. Hi Norm/All, Well I made the pins from a larger size. I had to reduce them and 'draw down' the eye part to under 1/16"dia, which is still out of scale, but much closer and still manageable to fit/remove. Well over the last few days, I've made a bit of progress with painting and assembly. Got past the difficult bit of fitting the horn plates, shafts and the Backhead fittings with minimal need for paint touch ups. Bit difficult to get enough light into the dark areas of black painted bits- The fitting of the Tender to the horn plates went ok and has 8 x 8ba bolts/nuts on each side, plus 4 x 7ba for the axle bearings. Original design was just the 4 bearing bolts and a single bolt/nut at the top each side. Quite pleased with the colour and should look plain, but smart when finished. I even made the steps with a 'raised' pattern chequer plate, rather than just saw cuts. The bright handle fitting serves to bolt the coal bunker plate to the tender side - The oil boxes all have filter screens inside to keep the moving bits clean. I think I will dull off the duck boarding a bit, as it looks a bit 'orange boxy' yellow to me. Regards.
  3. 18 years eh!, I bet it doesn't seem that long. In fact I bet it felt like last week when you posted this- Only 15 years Glad at least we are all still around to enjoy them.
  4. Many thanks guys. Hope all are well and upbeat on the anticipation of getting back to normal. I'll try and make greater progress on this before I post more pics after this post. Along with other parts, I have managed to get the last top coat on the Tender/Manstand part of the engine which was giving me a challenge trying to keep it free of contaminates while spraying. Completed the assembly of the front axle with the addition of the 'Spud' ring and pan design to the model- The 'Pan' part was fabricated with a lid from a Duraglit tin. The design was copied from photos of a full size T Engine. Fitted the finished wheels that have smaller hub caps and correct style 'Oilers'- The colour is a dark royal blue over black primer which is close to Prussian blue. There will be no fancy fairground colours or coach lines, as this is to be representative of a 'bog standard' utility general purpose engine. While it is mainly still in bits, I take the opportunity of fettling the 'motion' parts to ensure they are all clean, close fitting, but smooth. The con rod is a redesign to full size spec, which was a bit of a challenge when I made it 30 years ago with little experience of working metal or machines- The all important Reversing lever and quadrant are also redesigned as per full size versions. For size comparison, the 3 tapered pins in the weigh shaft (bottom) are 3/64" dia (1.2mm)- The finish on the lifting linkage below is after it has been dulled off with sulphuric acid, which makes the appearance more in scale. The tiny split pin in view is 1/32" dia (0.8mm). I had to reduce the size a bit and make 10 of them- I hope to make more progress in a week or two and hopefully start to look like an engine. Regards.
  5. Hi Ray, Hope all is well. I can offer a suggestion in advance of Wristpin's more experienced answer. The 130902 version has a vertical Pulse-jet carb fitted, so I now understand the orientation of your picture after checking the Workshop Manual. I suspect the spring has jumped off it's seat of the nylon cam lever which operates the choke. It needs to be repositioned around the back by the plate and tab in the picture below in the direction denoted by the blue arrow and it needs to pass below/behind the tab by the arrowhead to where there is a recess or lip on the nylon lever for the spring to catch on. I can now see it in both of your pics and looks to have been disengaged for some time, judging by the debris in the recess- I may be wrong. but the top of the spring end looks to have been bent upwards (in your first pic). I suspect it should be a 90 degrees and should lay horizontlal. Regards.
  6. A very nice project.No doubt you intend to bring it back to full working order!. With that in mind, and looking at the seat condition in your first Topic back in November, I see it as/or looks like rotten plywood. If so, scrap it and use the old parts to make a new seat. If you are going to sit on it, you've got to be comfortable, safe and able to control the machine. There are many ways to 'age' good quality birch faced ply, while keeping it waterproof and strong. This will fit in better if you plan to only clean and 'oily rag' it. If you go to 'back to new' looking, then you can dress the wood with varnish etc. I imagine you could also use solid elm or ash if the panels are not contoured (i.e bentwood). I certainly would not criticise it if I saw it at a show and it ended up with a newly varnished seat. Enjoy the project.
  7. Well, It's a bit quiet here again. so I'll add an update in the hope someone will be along later and may want to view something recently posted. Would be sorry to see this forum close. Switched my attention over to the Engine where, for longer than I had planned, have been making tiny bits I'd delayed until I began the final assembly. Loads of preparation before I could dodge the weather conditions and get the etch primer on during the good still, dry days since last September. Tested the water pump and all's well, so fitted to it's permanent location- Did some micro milling on the pump's eccentric sheave using a 1/16" diameter Slot Drill to reflect the casting style of the full size. Finished the motion work at the cylinder end and has all the full size detail design specification incorporated- The Back Plate carrying the regulator lever and the gear selector now has a number plaque fitted. 8mm between the fixings and the numbers bent to shape with tweezers from tinned fuse wire, sweated into a bed of solder in the recess of the plaque and painted. The numbers relate to the boiler's certification reference numbers- I shall be dulling off all the bright polished steel bits using the same process as in the Water Cart wheel rim faces. The pump eccentric strap and rod (2nd pic) have been treated and look much more realistic in this scale. I have managed to get some top coat onto the Tender/Manstand and a few other parts today, so I hope I can maintain the progress rate. Regards.
  8. It is possible there may be one in the stock of the Museum I volunteer for. If your project is long term, I'll check it out as soon as the Lockdown ends, or restrictions lifted. Do you know the year of manufacture?. I suspect the Carb was a Villiers Lightweight 3/4" bore, but not sure what the jet size would have been. We do have an Oxford Allen Scythe down at the Museum, so I could check for you then.
  9. Thanks gents. Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane. Hi Norm, yeah, long wait , I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100. It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially. Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps. Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine. Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do- 9 As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even. Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s). I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now. Spray bar and connections to finish. Hoses to make next when the materials arrive.
  10. I reckon 8?..... 4 assorted Sprinklers, 1x Electric pump. 1x Spade foot. 1xBilhook. 1x Pruning saw. Having a clear out then?
  11. Yes, that's correct. I put the 2 sets in using the cleaner ones as the anode and the dirtier ones as the recipient cathode which get cleaned. It gets most of the crud off before the anode set deteriorates too much and is easier to clean with a wire brush etc.
  12. Certainly got some use out of those!. Seems you have a good stock of replacement sacrificial anodes. I have two sets which I swap over using the process to help clean them off. I suspect your usage rate is way higher than mine nowadays.
  13. Most impressive work on a fine project and viewed with a touch of envy!. Reminds me of my childhood back in the late 1950s when my Dad had a 1935 Morris 8 Tourer and we often went for picnics etc in it. Have to rely on you and others now to produce these projects, too. much or me nowadays. Keep up the excellent work.
  14. I'm always grateful Alan and thanks. If the Topic/thread provides interest and something to read/look at being produced, then it has served it's purpose. Interests vary and is always good to see them all in material forms such as on this Forum, irrespective of varying skill levels and subjects. Reckon you're right Norm. They are obscured by the wheels. Only needed a few thousands of an inch variation on the flatness of the retaining plate while heating up for the lettering to be able to shift. Humbled John. Thanks. Learned to love the qualities of metals and lucky to have lots of patience. Things take me a long time to do, what with learning as I go. A project to me is loads of smaller projects which combine to make a finished one, hence the slow pace. Happy with the progress and the finished item is in sight Regards Well I somehow endured the low temperatures and managed to get some colour on this Water Cart. Matt finish is important as it seems to improve the appearance of a model this size. I had to use 2 different primers, one on the metal parts and another on the wood. Top coat went on fine with only a few undesirable bits in it which were easy to remove after. I used my 45 year old Badger 200 Airbrush, which had done many Murals on Car and Van panels back in the 1970s and still going strong- Once dry, I was able to pick out the raised lettering in yellow, a challenge with a tiny 6 bristled sable brush and an Eye Glass, while holding my breath to keep my hand steady- Currently a partial assembly to keep the bits together and dust free- Colour variations are due to available light, but the last image is what the colour is by eye. Valve internal parts now fitted. Matt varnish for top coat is on order. Currently dulling off the shiny wheel rims using acid to etch the finish. Regards
  15. I bought a basic Martek Drill Sharpener back in 1986, attaches to an electric drill and fixed into a drill holder back in that period. Only covered bits from 1/8" upwards. Still have it, but not used much. I tend to dispose of, or sharpen by hand, any bits under 1/8" and use only for wood after. Although I was successful in hand sharpening 2 off 1/32" drill bits after I broke them while working on my latest project. To be on the safe side, I started the hole with a good one, then followed up with the sharpened one and went fine with no issues. Winter 'clips my wings' with projects due cold workshop and other priorities. Like you're having to do, I do much of small work on the table in the warmer conditions. The other thing keeping me busy is learning the secrets of a different OS from Windows to MacBook Pro after 15 years using Microsoft.
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