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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on November 25

Anglo Traction had the most liked content!

About Anglo Traction
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    Advanced Member
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  • Location
    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
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  1. I've been designing/making several parts over the last month. decided to go for rope pull start on the engine, simpler job and I could use an old pulley that was used originally on the 'Yellow Mower Challenge ATCO' back in around 1959. The pulley is a 4" Picador with angled slots cut in and filed for the rope knotted end. I had to make the brass retaining bolt once I'd identified the flywheel nut thread form (9/16" x 20tpi BSC). It is fairly quick to remove to gain access to the ignition points/mag- The mahogany bumper blocks were added so as to allow a short overhang of the pulley/flywheel and puts the engine/mount centre line over the rear axle. The finished engine mount has some embelishments added in the form of brass straps- Working on the fuel tanks stand/mount presently and have finished bashing the copper to shape for the top of the main fuel tank- I have more work to do on it before soldering up and make the reserve tank. Reduction gear mounts next and the drive etc for the cooling fan. Regards
  2. Well done sir!. Look's like you have enough there to produce some good projects. The Myford254 is a good machine. Regards. Richard
  3. Thanks, hope all's well Ewan. A large void on here now without Norm Reached a point where there's lots of jobs that don't immediately produce finished parts. Lots of 'jigging' mounts that locate exactly where I want them prior to welding up. Managed to prime the chassis frame and black paint the underside. More holes to drill yet, so left it at that stage. Turned to fuel tanks and the mounting thereof. Lots of hammering/annealing of copper to form the bullet shape to fit onto the shell cartridge. Started with a section of tube 1.1/2" (38mm) in diameter and wall thickness of 1/16" (1.6mm) shown in the bottom centre of the pic. The one I'm working on is the main tank, having a screw on filler cap and looking a bit like a flask- I have to make another former of some kind to finish to the shape I need in order to make 2 of them, one main tank and one reserve. The reserve tank will be inverted for design purposes and will become obvious when assembled (I hope). Regards
  4. So sorry to hear of his sudden passing. My thoughts also are with the family. The loss of a good, 'down-to-earth' person will be much missed, and also on this, and the Redsquare Forum. R.I.P. Norm, we won't forget you. Richard
  5. Hi Ray, Ah, Ok. That is Municipal/Commercial grade machinery which is way outside my parameters of familiarisation. Can't find any positive responses from a search of the Model number AG2327. SPS tractors website are out of stock. So if it's a Briggs, you should know where you are with that. Good to hear how you get on with it. Regards
  6. Hi Ray, If it's one of the Wolseley Merry Tiller Models with a Scythe attachment, you will need to obtain a Manual for the Machine you wish to refer to and one for the Scythe attachment. Found loads online. here is an example for the 36" Scythe Is this a new project? Regards, Richard.
  7. Bonjour Noel, Veuillez trouver un lien vers l’annonce eBay. Landmaster L150 Regards.
  8. Bonjour, Veuillez vérifier ici dans quelques jours. Je pourrai peut-être vous aider. Cordialement. Richard. (hello, please check here in a few days. I may be able to help)
  9. Thanks Gents, Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion. Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly- It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims- One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side. Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim. Regards.
  10. If you still have the WH wheel bolts handy Ray, I will check with Roly to see if he still needs them and will drop you a PM. Thanks very much for that. Regards
  11. Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards
  12. Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards
  13. Version 1.0.0


    User and Parts Manual for both machines. Page format will need to re orientated to view.
  14. Hi Ray, Hope all's well. You beat me to it. JonW- I have replied to your PM. Regards
  15. Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling. Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !. As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues. Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! - Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later- I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling. This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit. The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable. Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads - The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell. The plate was then set up to drill the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss- Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth. The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all - The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear. It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! - Regards
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