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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on February 3

Anglo Traction had the most liked content!

About Anglo Traction
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  • Location
    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
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  1. Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking. Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today which I've been working on for a while- I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up. Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's original drawings. The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts- Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !. Regards
  2. Very nice (jigsaw) project you have there Nigel !. I'm impressed that your Blaster/Powder Coat man takes the trouble to wrap/protect all the parts for return.
  3. You/Mark were my next port of call as a suggestion to Angus, as I remember the project Ewan .
  4. Maybe worth checking again with Nigel. Looks the same size as fitted to H50/60,V70 etc (31715) - . I had to obtain missing parts from the states 9 years ago for this derelict H60 Rotavator as no availability in UK (used or new)- Nigel's V70 Lawn Ranger... looks pretty close without checking parts lists - Good luck with sorting it.
  5. Thanks Norm, Nigel. Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts. Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original. The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)- The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit. The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed, which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal. Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original- Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank. The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter- Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA- Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) - Going to be a shame to cover this in paint
  6. Ok Norm, I'm not the world's expert on wiring, but I got it right twice on WH rewires., I reckon if you have the right type of switch?, you have a constant live supply to the Solenoid through the switch when turned on, this constantly makes your starter turn, so the wire must be on the wrong blade on the back of the switch. At least the Solenoid is working ok. If you have no safety switches (Seat, PTO, Pedal), then the Red wire goes from the 'S' Blade on the back of the ignition Switch directly to the small terminal on the Solenoid. The Ammeter is showing - (minus) amps because the constantly running starter motor is drawing the current that would normally be recharging the battery. Check the Ammeter is correctly wired Pos & Neg though. Looking at your pics, I see an awful lot of red wires which will be very confusing to you if someone has messed about with the colour coding. Here is an amended diagram to reflect the absence of a primary safety switch (one left in to represent the PTO switch)- The 2 wires (shown dotted) from the Alternator (may be grey or purple) can be transposed on the Rectifier as the supply is AC. The output through the Orange wire to the Ign Switch is DC. Ignition Switch is earthed through it's body and is essential for the ammeter etc to work properly. Keep at it.
  7. Hi Norm, You don't say what model it is, so I presume it's 1980/81 which uses a 3 position/5 pin 103990 Ign Switch. I've handed my C-120 Info on to Roly with the Tractor, but checked for comparison using parts list. This diagram should be identical for you to check yours- The solenoid may look non serviceable, but I only needs 4 rivets drilling out and replacing after a clean out. Covered it in my C-120/Raider update if you want a link?. Hope it helps. Edit - 103990 switch pins are marked- S- Safety Switch/ Sol Start. R- Rectifier. A- Accessories (lights). I - Igntion (poss via seat safety switch) . B - Battery/Ammeter .
  8. Wick is usually raised and lowered by a wheel that grips the wick. The top section of the burner should lift off of the fuel tank to expose it and replace the wixk when necessary. A picture would help?. A bit older than your heater, but relevant -
  9. Thanks Ewan. I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold. So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine. The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size- I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.
  10. I prefer to always log off from Sites/Forums and clear all history+ other data after disconnecting Wi Fi every time. Never had any log in issues anywhere using windows7 and Googy Chrome. I'm not clear on the 'Always Logged in' situ. Can't get my head around it, as if someone says they always remain logged in to a Site/Forum, why does it not show the Username on the 'Who's Online' section at the bottom of the Home page?. Some Forums I use automatically drop you out after a period of inactivity. Then again, I am maybe over cautious. I hope the cause of the problem is able to be resolved and explained.
  11. Looks like you've nearly 'got it nailed' Ian !.
  12. Sorry to hear you're having problems Alain. Would be sorry to see you go and your absence would leave a large void here. Persevere and try Karl's advice. Don't ever let any IT gremlins grind you down. I've just beaten Ford UK into submission with their website after a frustrating 3 weeks (punch air)......... ....and I'm no expert!.
  13. Nice project Chris. I made a new bush for the C120. Used bronze and pressed in. Too expensive to ship one over and not available here.
  14. Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals. Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into. Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets- Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps- Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true. Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)- Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.
  15. Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though. With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts- I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder. After removing the retaining bolt/washer- After an initial clean up and bonding check- Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up
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