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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on November 1

Anglo Traction had the most liked content!

About Anglo Traction

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  • Location
    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.

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  1. Anglo Traction

    Poor Starting. Give up and start again

    You made short work of that job. Impressive . I do like that Kubota Blue. Enjoy the seat time
  2. Anglo Traction

    A Splash of Autumn Colour

    A very pleasant Autumn so far where I am. Not long before the leaves drop from my Acer Palmatum Bloodgood. Usually the last deciduous to lose it's leaves around here and the first to bud in spring. Even beats the Oak for leaf endurance. Greeted with this array of colour outside the kitchen window. This view is from an upper bedroom window -
  3. Anglo Traction

    Poor Starting. Give up and start again

    Fine example of a 'Proper Job'
  4. Anglo Traction

    This Kohler beyond repair?

    There is nothing in consideration of that engine's condition that is not repairable, or affect the engine in use when repaired. It can be fully rebuilt to a good running condition. What will affect that reconditioning is how much you consider is worth spending, how comfortable you feel about doing most of the (dis/assembly) work and if you have the time, tools and facilities. It's not uncommon for rods to fail, difficult to point to the cause(s), other than fatigue, poor maintenance or assembly. That is a 'lucky' failure. I've seen holes punched through the crank case just above the starter high mount position, another with a large chunk of lower cylinder broken off (still running). From the pics, I can't see any condition of the Crank that will not be remedied by inspection, measurement and a possible regrind to 0.010" under, with an appropriate replacement Con Rod. Acceptable 'wear limit' (Kohler's) on the Crank journal is 0.0005" (five ten thousandths of an inch, or half-a-thou ). Which gives you an idea of the fine tolerances required for a long life engine. Whatever you do, don't scrap it, someone will want to fix it up.
  5. Anglo Traction

    New Toy MF7E

    No way of telling what size it is visually. Maybe worth pulling the head to check it anyway, just to see the condition and know what it is for sure. Can only offer you some engine spec info. Records of Kohler engines supplied to Moto Mowers show the following info- K141 Spec 29218 6.25hp. K161 Specs 28635 7hp, 28858 and 28861. Could not find any other engine type supplied to Moto Mowers, unless they obtained a batch of a Basic Model (off the shelf). Is that a Delco Remy starter generator?. You could search the parts list manuals for those specs to see if they show the mountings etc for it. Hope it's the original engine and not a swap in.
  6. Anglo Traction

    New Toy MF7E

    Great and unusual find Ewan. Reckon you're right to go down the path of dismantle, clean, fix and re assemble. A good, aged example
  7. Anglo Traction

    Auto Culto RIP

    Lucky man, I do like those early machines, so much character and quality. Those conical ended tanks are great. Looks late 20s - early 30s, is the engine a Villers MkVIII-C (147 cc)?. Hopefully one day I'll find something similar.
  8. Anglo Traction

    Fuel Pump Vacuum Hose

    Ah, now with the pics you have posted, the mist is clearing and I see your problem (I think). You are looking for a replacement Engine Breather pipe!, the Breather unit being the rectangular object on the right of your first picture. The pipe fits between that box and onto the Carb (large Flo jet). The part number should be 280100 in the Part Manual which I believe supercedes to 692253 now . If you search for either or both those numbers, you will find a screen full of choices price-wise and image comparison. Also, my records show your engine to be allocated to 1984 W'horse B115 range, as the 1982 recorded date of your Tractor model shows engine 253707- 0209-01 ?. Can check date of your engine with it's serial number. As you have a high mounted Fuel Tank and a vertical shaft engine, you don't always have a fuel pump fitted?. Let us know when you're sorted. Edit- @ 1716. The Tractor was actually built in 1981, scheduled build for Thursday 15th November, so the original engine would also have been 1981. (Models/numbers changed around September when producing Model versions for the following year started).
  9. Anglo Traction

    Fuel Pump Vacuum Hose

    I looked up the parts Manual for your engine on the B & S website and should work for you to download a copy of both - B & S Manual So your Vac Hose part number is 393815 and is sold as a cut-to-size length. As the Vac Pump has 1/4" diameter in/outlets, I would hazard a guess that modern spec 1/4" bore x 1/2" outer dia fuel pipe will be 'more-than-rigid' enough for the job. Obtainable from the likes of Halfords. No sign of response on Ebay with the part number, but enter - briggs and stratton fuel hose 393815 into google and you'll be flooded with variations of responses (other search engines available).
  10. Anglo Traction

    Koehler carb help please

    1- Details are on page133/134. Wouldn't bother printing the whole Manual, just the bits you need for now, unless you really need some boring bedtime reading! . 2- Providing the bolts are cleaned up ok (heads and threads), you can reuse them. They are grade 8 (hardened/tempered) should have 6 radiating lines on the heads. If you have removed, pushed them through a piece of card with their position noted, you can swap the bolts from the hot side of the engine to the cool side & V Versa. If you haven't, be careful to check the lengths of them, as I believe one should be 1/4" longer to fit the engine lift eye position which, if I recall correctly should be in number 1 bolt position on the sequence diagram?. 3- Plug the bolt holes below the surface level with oiled rag as mentioned before. Oiled rag over the lowered piston to catch dust, dirt etc. Cylinder is cast iron, so you can have at it with a softish rotary wire brush to speed up the process. Watch for broken off wire strands in the bore area. When you're done, you can vacuum or blast the top clean with air. Unscrew the rags from the holes with long nosed pliers or tweezers. Uncover the piston and do that, then you're done, unless you plan to do the valves as well?.
  11. Anglo Traction

    Koehler carb help please

    To be honest, I would say you are there with it. Hopefully the new gasket rolled lip will sit in the same depression area remaining. You have enough flat area for a gas tight joint now. The original pic of the head showing the blown gas leak areas, which I later showed and denoted (but forgot to explain) with green arrows are now fine. There is just the chamber carbon deposit areas to finish back to bright and you're done with the C/head. Nearly time to arm yourself with a torque wrench and bolt it down to the sequence in the manual.
  12. Anglo Traction

    Kohler plug query

    B6L versus B6S . Both have the same heat range, but the B6S has the shorter reach (screw thread into C/head) which is only 3/8" and so would not be able to dissipate tip heat away and into the C/head. B6L (correct equivalent to Champion RH10C) has a reach of 7/16", so more thread engagement in the C/head which will bring the heat dissipation rate back to where it should be for that part of the Spark Plug. You have probably deduced that the lower the number on NGK Plugs, the hotter it runs (the plug that is, not the engine). Champion = higher the number, the hotter it runs. As you/we will never know what conditions were when the previous owner was running it (with/without Filter etc), it is difficult to say. For your situation, once you've got it back to how it should be with a good A/Filter and what you've done C/head & Carb-wise, it will run fine. Not burning Oil yet and will have efficient cooling.
  13. Anglo Traction

    Koehler carb help please

    Comparing what you started with, it looks a whole lot better. I have never seen one that badly distorted. In an attempt to be practical and honest, I can't help thinking that it needs more done to prevent further leaks?, but I'm a pretty fussy over-cautious person. If you stop there, call it a day and fit it, there is a risk it will leech gasses past the gasket to the two uppermost, red circled bolt holes. I can''t say what the level of risk is. At least the head would not be distorted again when bolted down to spec (unless the cylinder gasket face is not flat). I can't be sure but I think those 2 bolts go onto blind holes?, so may contain any further leaking, but will make it difficult to remove them in future. The 3rd red circled hole with the black arrow carries the bolt which I believe sometimes breaks into the Exhaust outlet chamber. That looks like it would be ok, as you have a small, clean flat face between it and the head chamber. I understand/admire your self disciplined, marathon efforts to get to this stage, but it's your call really. Maybe if you could continue at least to the point of obtaining a flat 'land' on the chamber side of those two top circled bolt holes?. It may help if you place the head down on the paper and presuming you are right handed, place the palm of your hand (ball of your thumb) over the Spark Plug hole area, you can apply slightly more pressure to that area and less over the opposite end. You would emphasise more localised metal removal that way and still achieve flatness. I don't think there is any issue with Valve (lift) Head clearance as a result of metal removal, but it would be worth checking anyway. Just wondering if you have obtained/downloaded a copy of the K series Engine Service Manual?. It's very helpful. Keep at it, you'll be rewarded with a better running Kohler in the end.
  14. Anglo Traction

    Kohler Carburettor 4705313

    Consider it yours Norm. SOLD
  15. Anglo Traction

    Kohler K301 STD Piston/Rings/Rod

    Copied Norm. Consider this yours and Item(s) sold.
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