Anglo Traction

It's a version of the basic engine design that may serve several applications. You could find that engine spec example on a Generator set. I would stick to traditional mineral based 30 weight Oils like Castrol XL. Many of these older engines are not suited to modern oils. Look's also that you are reasonably familiar with Kohler engines If possible, it is prefereable to provide images of issues and problems you have with this 'project'. Many who view a Topic may not be familiar with the machine type/model, but may well offer methods of dealing with the issues etc. If you can keep the image resolution to about 900kb, a standard membership image allowance will let you post more of them. Supporter Membership is unlimited.

Engine is 1972 model. The 'P' stands for `pump version !. The 'T' stands for retractable pull start. Kohler Engine Workshop Manual and parts list can be found by online searching, as can the parts list. Oxford Allen manuals also online and some parts still available via - Villiersparts

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards

Unusual design!. it's based on the Archemedian principle. A bit of searchng Hose manufacturers may well produce what you need. One point about these is that with rubber involved, there needs to be a method of priming with water etc prior to starting up from a dry condition. As for makers info, It may be worth enquiring with the company. Yes, it look's like they are still in business. Here's a link to their 'Timeline' on their website- MONO PUMPS Ltd Good luck. Regards

Hi and welcome,. Looks like a good project. I include a link to a topic on this Forum that is for the same unit, but for a Generator, so the Pump Brand will likely need to be researched separately. Good luck with the project and let us see your progress on it. -LINK- Regards.

Thanks Alan, Been preoccupied with lots of small jobs and pulling together two of the three sections of this project. The middle section (reduction gear unit) has taken a lot of time and work, as it includes the fuel tanks. They are finished, lacquered, mounted and the fuel gauge nestles between them- Still incomplete middle section where I have to make up the cable and lever system for operating the clutch/brake shoes. The last job will be to fill the Reduction gear unit with oil - All the brass/bronze work has been polished and lacquered as assembly progressed, with the exception of the engine cowling, as I now have some clear gloss VHT Lacquer for that. output/fan drive sprocket modified to fit onto a woodruf key and locked in place with a grub screw Finalised the location of the modified throttle lever and cable route, which keeps it neat, tidy and handy location. Lever and cable joints are watertight. Although I will have to change the Carb Air inlet and Choke layout to prevent water ingress- Tempted to start the engine for a run soon to check how it sounds with the exhaust. Has a lovely bright blue spark at the plug and the timing is spot on. Mahogany planks being treated prior to fitting and will be yacht varnished after. Pump drive and location of it is a bit of a headache, but working on it- Regards.

Ok, I've just checked the part nbrs for the engine spec you quoted and the 7hp Osprey spec I worked on and the part numbers are identical (was 260609, now 492476). This was the basic crank for that size engine, so may not be so difficult to find one.

Hi Ray, I'll keep an eye out on the stock down at the Museum and if anything comes in. Last resort, but could it be possible to turn an extension for the C'shaft?.

Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis

Hello Derren, Welcome. The Flywheel retaining nut is 'Captive'. To avoid strain to the crankshaft, it is best to use a strap around the outer diameter of the flywheel to prevent rotation while undoing the nut. The nut should be 13/16" A/F. Once it initially loosens, it will tighten again. This is when the nut flange runs against the internal face of the flywheel and further undoing of the nut will force the flywheel off the crankshaft taper. A simple, but effective design and prevents the flywheel jumping off. An example of the torneque method of binding rope around the flywheel with a piece of wood to twist/tighten it and brace against the 'undo' force is shown in an image toward the bottom of the first page of my mower thread here- -LINK- Regards. Richard.

Ok, yours is probably a bit older than mine. It has the square headed lock screw on the base collar to retain the column. There's probably one holding the handwheel on as well. Mine are hex socket grub screws. they are all whitworth form threads. I see you have the upper 3/8" dia spindle section !. It may be worth measuring it and compare it to my given dimension, There should be about 1 1/4" of 3/8" whitworth thread at the top and the nut should be of the Locking type (like an old version of nylock) I'll check my scrap bin again, as it was the top section of the `spindle' that I cut off and used. There is also the stop collar missing which measures 43.4mm x 42.32mm diameter and 3/4" bore, it also acts as a weight to assist feed rate. It all looks salvageable, even welding up the drill holes in the base.

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards

Hello John, Sorry for the slow response. The spindle is in 2 pieces, the lower length 7. 1/2" (190mm) x 3/4" dia (19.05mm). The upper section 7. 5/8" ( 193mm) and is 3/8" dia. this upper piece is press fitted into the lower section and pinned with a 1/8" dia dowel. So it would need to be longer to account for the fit overlap if you're making one. The milled keyway, as mentioned was reduced to about 3. 1/2" (89mm) to allow for increased bearing surface in the lower bearing (body casting). The thrust bearing has 2 sections of 1'" dia (25.4mm) x 3/16" (4.75mm) with races machined in both to accommodate 5/32" ball bearings, then hardened/tempered I believe the original chucks were knurled for hand tightening, but mine had been changed/bodged. The colour was made up/matched by myself using good quality enamels. Hope this helps. Regards

One of those red wires (likely the sleeved one) is possibly the coil earth IF the coil winding wrap is insulated from the soft iron laminated coil plate?. If so, then the other red wire is from the coil's primary winding and services the breaker points. The issue with the image references is the 3rd image that shows the COM lead point contacting the insulated half of the breaker point which is open, But you don't show or say where the Red 'V' lead point is contacting!. I see that the smaller red wire is (presumably) spliced into the (black) condenser wire. You should isolate the condenser from that lead if you want to test the resistance of the primary winding, which if ok will give you a resistance reading of approx 2 to 2.5. I don't have the actual value. That test should be:- Red point on the wire from the primary winding and the black COM point to an earth point. Keep at it. I presume the magnet(s) in the flywheel are still strong enough to produce a spark?. It's many years since i messed with one of these, I can't remember if the flywheel is 'Keyed" for fixed timing, or requires setting up. Wristpin is the man you need. Hopefully he will look in. Regards

Hello David, Welcome. Hopefully you will have success in your research of Conyers. I have seen several products with their name from the 60s>. Your engine is a Briggs and Stratton, possibly 3hp , or even 4hp. You can obtain all the parts lists and opersting manuals based on the Model, Spec and Serial numbers stamped into the engine cowling right next to the Governor adjusting screw/Rod behind the Air Filter in your posted image. I refurbished a '72' Genset some years back with the same engine and it's progress was logged in this section of the forum. If it is of any help, here is a link- 72 Genset If you need any help with the engine, just post it here. Afraid I can't help with the generating part, as I'm not familiar with it. Regards.