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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on April 19

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About Anglo Traction
 
 
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    Surrey, England, UK.
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    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
 
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  1. Ok, I've just checked the part nbrs for the engine spec you quoted and the 7hp Osprey spec I worked on and the part numbers are identical (was 260609, now 492476). This was the basic crank for that size engine, so may not be so difficult to find one.
  2. Hi Ray, I'll keep an eye out on the stock down at the Museum and if anything comes in. Last resort, but could it be possible to turn an extension for the C'shaft?.
  3. Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis
  4. Hello Derren, Welcome. The Flywheel retaining nut is 'Captive'. To avoid strain to the crankshaft, it is best to use a strap around the outer diameter of the flywheel to prevent rotation while undoing the nut. The nut should be 13/16" A/F. Once it initially loosens, it will tighten again. This is when the nut flange runs against the internal face of the flywheel and further undoing of the nut will force the flywheel off the crankshaft taper. A simple, but effective design and prevents the flywheel jumping off. An example of the torneque method of binding rope around the flywheel with a piece of wood to twist/tighten it and brace against the 'undo' force is shown in an image toward the bottom of the first page of my mower thread here- -LINK- Regards. Richard.
  5. Ok, yours is probably a bit older than mine. It has the square headed lock screw on the base collar to retain the column. There's probably one holding the handwheel on as well. Mine are hex socket grub screws. they are all whitworth form threads. I see you have the upper 3/8" dia spindle section !. It may be worth measuring it and compare it to my given dimension, There should be about 1 1/4" of 3/8" whitworth thread at the top and the nut should be of the Locking type (like an old version of nylock) I'll check my scrap bin again, as it was the top section of the `spindle' that I cut off and used. There is also the stop collar missing which measures 43.4mm x 42.32mm diameter and 3/4" bore, it also acts as a weight to assist feed rate. It all looks salvageable, even welding up the drill holes in the base.
  6. Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards
  7. Hello John, Sorry for the slow response. The spindle is in 2 pieces, the lower length 7. 1/2" (190mm) x 3/4" dia (19.05mm). The upper section 7. 5/8" ( 193mm) and is 3/8" dia. this upper piece is press fitted into the lower section and pinned with a 1/8" dia dowel. So it would need to be longer to account for the fit overlap if you're making one. The milled keyway, as mentioned was reduced to about 3. 1/2" (89mm) to allow for increased bearing surface in the lower bearing (body casting). The thrust bearing has 2 sections of 1'" dia (25.4mm) x 3/16" (4.75mm) with races machined in both to accommodate 5/32" ball bearings, then hardened/tempered I believe the original chucks were knurled for hand tightening, but mine had been changed/bodged. The colour was made up/matched by myself using good quality enamels. Hope this helps. Regards
  8. One of those red wires (likely the sleeved one) is possibly the coil earth IF the coil winding wrap is insulated from the soft iron laminated coil plate?. If so, then the other red wire is from the coil's primary winding and services the breaker points. The issue with the image references is the 3rd image that shows the COM lead point contacting the insulated half of the breaker point which is open, But you don't show or say where the Red 'V' lead point is contacting!. I see that the smaller red wire is (presumably) spliced into the (black) condenser wire. You should isolate the condenser from that lead if you want to test the resistance of the primary winding, which if ok will give you a resistance reading of approx 2 to 2.5. I don't have the actual value. That test should be:- Red point on the wire from the primary winding and the black COM point to an earth point. Keep at it. I presume the magnet(s) in the flywheel are still strong enough to produce a spark?. It's many years since i messed with one of these, I can't remember if the flywheel is 'Keyed" for fixed timing, or requires setting up. Wristpin is the man you need. Hopefully he will look in. Regards
  9. Hello David, Welcome. Hopefully you will have success in your research of Conyers. I have seen several products with their name from the 60s>. Your engine is a Briggs and Stratton, possibly 3hp , or even 4hp. You can obtain all the parts lists and opersting manuals based on the Model, Spec and Serial numbers stamped into the engine cowling right next to the Governor adjusting screw/Rod behind the Air Filter in your posted image. I refurbished a '72' Genset some years back with the same engine and it's progress was logged in this section of the forum. If it is of any help, here is a link- 72 Genset If you need any help with the engine, just post it here. Afraid I can't help with the generating part, as I'm not familiar with it. Regards.
  10. Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-
  11. Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards
  12. Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)- I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted- . The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table- When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies. All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance- A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me. Regards
  13. Not a lot of progress, what with the cold spell of the last 3 weeks. Confined myself in the warmer environment of the Lounge. Too cold in the workshop. Have been designing and drawing up the Fuel fittings I require. Nothing 'off the shelf' will suit, so making my own and using a 1950s ATCO Pet Cock as a guide. Got some Lathe time in over last few days and started turning up a Taper Reamer blank, then a first Pet Cock plug at the same settings. Got to produce several of these so I have a stock. The taper angle is 7 degrees inclusive . The little levers that screw into the plug are threaded 5/32" Whitworth, so making them the same - Had to keep to Imperial, not easy to mix metric on these, plus I have been asked to reproduce an old Pet Cock style for a restoration. Ready to part off the finished plug from the rod and make the next one now. The reamer blank is next to finish machining the cutting edges, then harden, temper and hone. Quite pleased really, as the new plug actually fits perfectly in the old tap body, so I got the angle right. Regards.
  14. Thank you Gents for your positive comments. Lot of work sorting the Reduction Unit design set up. I needed to provide stanchions for the tank(s) support and location, bearing support for the fan drive, Pto clutch lever mount point and lubricator positions, all in one area. I decided on brass plates for extending up to fan shaft line. Started with an old 12 inch (305mm) square plate shown during marking out- After lot of cutting and careful drilling time, I was able to fit it and began the stiffening with bracing layout and fittng the welded and shaped stanchions. Lubrication connections made to fit into the large brass bearings, then made/fitted the mountings for the Lubricators. These Lubricators were found in an old barn in France about 15 years ago and are shown in the very first image of this Topic. Had to anneal the thick walled copper pipes, shaped to fit using a home made tube bender also shown in the image below- Had to use incompatible metals in this unit (electrolytic/galvanic reaction risk), so will have to be careful to seal the mating surfaces of the Aluminium and Brass parts, even though they will be polished and lacquered. Hoping to get this unit''s mounting plate/support welded up soon. Regards and wishing all a Happy New Year
  15. Only just spotted this post. Assuming you are in the UK?, have you tried the Stationary Engine Forum?. Obviously you will to register, but there is a good chance someone on there could help you. Here is a -LINK-
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