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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on November 1 2018

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About Anglo Traction

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  • Location
    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.

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  1. Anglo Traction

    Trojan mk1

    Belated response here Nigel. What a superb job/finish you've done on it . Would've liked to see a 'before' pic to see what you had to start with. Look's mint now .
  2. Anglo Traction

    HALF a HORSE.

    Good work Alan. My workshop's too cold at the mo' and waiting to finish some lathe work. The castings that look like Fire Dogs in the second pic caught my eye . Hope to join you and Norm on here with a contribution soon.
  3. Anglo Traction

    new toy for me

    Another good acquisition. Early version of the Bateman Mfg Co range of Seeders, Planters etc. American. Beginning of the last Century. Later versions had full lid. Chain is what I call a 'cage chain' , flat and rectangular. Should have 57 links?. Your wheel has been fitted the wrong way around. Should have chain drive on the left viewed from behind. A brief history of Bateman Mfg Co There are a few examples of them on utube which will give you some good pointers on them.
  4. Anglo Traction

    Villiers MK15

    Suspect the Carb is a B10/1 or B10/2?. The mk15 was introduced in 1953 and continued to be made well past the switch to manufacturing India in the mid 60s. I suspect your Carb/Engine is of the 50s period and the flat clip design was used on later examples (probably cheaper and only needed one style of adaptor for several filter designs). It is possible the clear plastic filter cup version style was unchanged and would fit early (50s) and later (60s) versions of retainer?. Just a quick search of a B10/2 entry into google produces loads of pics showing later clips that are screwed into the Adaptor part, so I expect your adaptor won't take screwed clips. I suggest you contact Mr P Childs at Meetens giving your engine Model and serial numbers and most importantly an image/dimensions of your Air Filter arrangement to help him. If anyone has a replacement, he will have it. You could ask him to check if the Part number V1272D Filter Cup is what you are after, as it looks identical. Lastly, if you have no luck, your only option is to use a later adaptor on the carb (known as an Oil Bath Air Filter Cover) and use the later bowl/clip design or Filter type. Engine looks good internally. Always a good sign to find a re bore and no 'wear lip'. It shows signs of a proper full rebuild.
  5. Anglo Traction

    paint codes

    If you're not aware of them, this website owner may give you the correct codes/names of the red and white - WMT As for the Kohler blue, it's a guess these days, also if it's metalic or opaque?. A few engine forums have the same question asked over the years. There was mention of the old Kohler part number (p/n 221295-s), but of no use as it's discontinued. Mention of Ford Dark Blue Engine enamel and Old Pontiac Blue (both U.S.) being a close match, but no code stated for a UK equivalent. I think there was a DuPont code also mentioned (GS 723) , again no use to you, unless you search for a match and compensate for computer colour variations.
  6. Anglo Traction

    Poor Starting. Give up and start again

    You made short work of that job. Impressive . I do like that Kubota Blue. Enjoy the seat time
  7. Anglo Traction

    A Splash of Autumn Colour

    A very pleasant Autumn so far where I am. Not long before the leaves drop from my Acer Palmatum Bloodgood. Usually the last deciduous to lose it's leaves around here and the first to bud in spring. Even beats the Oak for leaf endurance. Greeted with this array of colour outside the kitchen window. This view is from an upper bedroom window -
  8. Anglo Traction

    Poor Starting. Give up and start again

    Fine example of a 'Proper Job'
  9. Anglo Traction

    This Kohler beyond repair?

    There is nothing in consideration of that engine's condition that is not repairable, or affect the engine in use when repaired. It can be fully rebuilt to a good running condition. What will affect that reconditioning is how much you consider is worth spending, how comfortable you feel about doing most of the (dis/assembly) work and if you have the time, tools and facilities. It's not uncommon for rods to fail, difficult to point to the cause(s), other than fatigue, poor maintenance or assembly. That is a 'lucky' failure. I've seen holes punched through the crank case just above the starter high mount position, another with a large chunk of lower cylinder broken off (still running). From the pics, I can't see any condition of the Crank that will not be remedied by inspection, measurement and a possible regrind to 0.010" under, with an appropriate replacement Con Rod. Acceptable 'wear limit' (Kohler's) on the Crank journal is 0.0005" (five ten thousandths of an inch, or half-a-thou ). Which gives you an idea of the fine tolerances required for a long life engine. Whatever you do, don't scrap it, someone will want to fix it up.
  10. Anglo Traction

    New Toy MF7E

    No way of telling what size it is visually. Maybe worth pulling the head to check it anyway, just to see the condition and know what it is for sure. Can only offer you some engine spec info. Records of Kohler engines supplied to Moto Mowers show the following info- K141 Spec 29218 6.25hp. K161 Specs 28635 7hp, 28858 and 28861. Could not find any other engine type supplied to Moto Mowers, unless they obtained a batch of a Basic Model (off the shelf). Is that a Delco Remy starter generator?. You could search the parts list manuals for those specs to see if they show the mountings etc for it. Hope it's the original engine and not a swap in.
  11. Anglo Traction

    New Toy MF7E

    Great and unusual find Ewan. Reckon you're right to go down the path of dismantle, clean, fix and re assemble. A good, aged example
  12. Anglo Traction

    Auto Culto RIP

    Lucky man, I do like those early machines, so much character and quality. Those conical ended tanks are great. Looks late 20s - early 30s, is the engine a Villers MkVIII-C (147 cc)?. Hopefully one day I'll find something similar.
  13. Anglo Traction

    Fuel Pump Vacuum Hose

    Ah, now with the pics you have posted, the mist is clearing and I see your problem (I think). You are looking for a replacement Engine Breather pipe!, the Breather unit being the rectangular object on the right of your first picture. The pipe fits between that box and onto the Carb (large Flo jet). The part number should be 280100 in the Part Manual which I believe supercedes to 692253 now . If you search for either or both those numbers, you will find a screen full of choices price-wise and image comparison. Also, my records show your engine to be allocated to 1984 W'horse B115 range, as the 1982 recorded date of your Tractor model shows engine 253707- 0209-01 ?. Can check date of your engine with it's serial number. As you have a high mounted Fuel Tank and a vertical shaft engine, you don't always have a fuel pump fitted?. Let us know when you're sorted. Edit- @ 1716. The Tractor was actually built in 1981, scheduled build for Thursday 15th November, so the original engine would also have been 1981. (Models/numbers changed around September when producing Model versions for the following year started).
  14. Anglo Traction

    Fuel Pump Vacuum Hose

    I looked up the parts Manual for your engine on the B & S website and should work for you to download a copy of both - B & S Manual So your Vac Hose part number is 393815 and is sold as a cut-to-size length. As the Vac Pump has 1/4" diameter in/outlets, I would hazard a guess that modern spec 1/4" bore x 1/2" outer dia fuel pipe will be 'more-than-rigid' enough for the job. Obtainable from the likes of Halfords. No sign of response on Ebay with the part number, but enter - briggs and stratton fuel hose 393815 into google and you'll be flooded with variations of responses (other search engines available).
  15. Anglo Traction

    Koehler carb help please

    1- Details are on page133/134. Wouldn't bother printing the whole Manual, just the bits you need for now, unless you really need some boring bedtime reading! . 2- Providing the bolts are cleaned up ok (heads and threads), you can reuse them. They are grade 8 (hardened/tempered) should have 6 radiating lines on the heads. If you have removed, pushed them through a piece of card with their position noted, you can swap the bolts from the hot side of the engine to the cool side & V Versa. If you haven't, be careful to check the lengths of them, as I believe one should be 1/4" longer to fit the engine lift eye position which, if I recall correctly should be in number 1 bolt position on the sequence diagram?. 3- Plug the bolt holes below the surface level with oiled rag as mentioned before. Oiled rag over the lowered piston to catch dust, dirt etc. Cylinder is cast iron, so you can have at it with a softish rotary wire brush to speed up the process. Watch for broken off wire strands in the bore area. When you're done, you can vacuum or blast the top clean with air. Unscrew the rags from the holes with long nosed pliers or tweezers. Uncover the piston and do that, then you're done, unless you plan to do the valves as well?.
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