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Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on July 25

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About Anglo Traction
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    Advanced Member
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  • Location
    Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests
    Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
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  1. I know there is a lot experience and knowledge of these O&R enigne powered machine on here, so I thought I'd dip a toe in the water and post this sorry sight in a Tray- From a quick scan of the topics on here, I presume the red paint indicates an early-ish model. The engine cowling is a devoted effort by someone in the past to repair or keep running this unit without replacement parts being available, as the retractable pullstart is long gone. Being offered it, I'm tempted to have a go at it, but doubt if I could get it back to original appearance, the cost and availablility of parts and the current condition. The only numbers I could see on the motor are shown here- This being in the UK will not be so easy to sort, so may put under the bench for some 'over winter' repair therapy?. Regards
  2. Will come back with an update on this towards the winter. It has now been married up to a good example of the original mower it used to push around in the 1920s- Needless to say in the meantime, it's being parked up on a display stand to earn it's keep at the Museum. I'm busy with miniature stuff at the moment.
  3. Anglo Traction

    Spark Plug

    There are several possible reasons for excessive oil consumption in these older 'K' engines, so I'm not sure if you have covered all of them off yet?. Use of correct Oil. It is often experienced that use of modern synthetic blends etc in these engines can cause high consumption. They were designed for Mineral based Oils. A good 30 wt oil of spec as specified in the manual for air cooled, splash lubrication will always serve well. It is also possible that fitting new rings to a worn/used bore will not improve it's current condition very much. It may be worn 'out of round' , of which there is a limit quoted. As mentioned, deglazing a cylinder can work wonders for a tired engine, but it needs to be done correctly to resemble the finish of a newly honed engine. Kohler recommend the honing marks should intersect at approx 30degrees, and if these marks are either too steep or shallow, the oil consumption/friction can increase. Here is an example of the correct honing finish (after a rebore)- There is another area to check, if not already done so. The valve guides are a possible cause and can have the same affect as worn rings on Oil use and by causing the crankcase to be pressurised, instead of running with a partial vacuum. These are good engines and are readily able to be rebuilt, so I for one am pleased with your clear determination to get this one back up to spec. I hope your potential engine rebore service is local to you. It's a few years since I had a K301 fully worked by Sutton Rebore Services and I was so impressed by their standards and prices. The sound of an almost 'back to new' engine running as it should is payment enough. Regards
  4. Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt. Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending. It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-
  5. Your engine is listed as S12D. I used this to search and find ring sets for that model (12hp, points ignition). There is also a TRA12D, identical, but with electronic ignition, but I suspect they both use the same ring part number. You will have to obtain a service/parts manual to double check what you need, or provide a retailer with all of your engine's model/spec and serial numbers. Wisconsin are still in business in the U.S and suspect will be the only place you will get replacements that you can trust and be prepared to pay premium prices/delivery and import charges.......then again, it depends where in the world you are located??? link to example Piston Ring possibility
  6. Ok, Thats me being a bit slow responding and you being on the same frequency!. Yeah, strange how the occasional metric dimension crops up in U.S. equipment. The specs in the Kohler Manual for the Crank journals each end are not round imperial fractions in Thous of an inch- 1.1811" = 30mm. Regards.
  7. Hi Ewan, other options which I would follow is, if you have a parts manual for the engine, do a search online using the part number. Often, something will show up with an alternative bearing number or dimension (probably stateside) to work to. Or, post the question on Redsquare, as there must be owners of early 60's machines who have been there and done it . They should be same size bearing as in K181. Good luck .
  8. Can't help with the orientation of the piston. Hoping to become familiar with J.A.P engines soon. Suggest that if you are keeping the machine and using it, it may be worth obtaining a J.A.P Manual to assist with the engine assembly- Manual
  9. Hi Norm, Yes, they should do for me. Not best quality, or hardened/ground rolls, as they were painted and I had to clean it off them to ensure the rolls were smooth enough for the finer metals I will be using. Took a flyer and ordered off ebay. Came from Poland. Bit anxious for the last week, as overdue and no update or shipping info since 20th June. All sorted . Just waiting for some tooling for the Mill to arrive and I'll be bending metal at the weekend.
  10. For many years, I've wanted to be able to roll sheet metal (in small sizes). From shaping the nickel silver cleading on my traction engine to making fuel tanks and small exhaust mufflers. So after saving up the Workshop pocket money, I've finally got a set of Mini Bending Rolls- Quite heavy duty rollers for a 300mm wide unit and steel geared. Plenty big enough for all the jobs I have for it, and at 14kgs, just unbolts from the bench to be stored out of the way. ....I'll get around to making some Swaging Rolls one day
  11. Anglo Traction

    Spark Plug

    Manual reccommends Champion RCJ8 0.025" gap (unless running on propane etc). Not sure if modern ones are as good as the old ones, so here is a cross reference for loads of alternatives grabbed from the net-
  12. Don't usually like to revisit old Topics, but this Tap came back to haunt me. I started dripping fuel out of the Tap and apparently emptied the fuel out on the floor probably over last winter. Having concerns that my workmanship, or the materials I had used were at fault, I took it back to find the cause. Glad to say the bits I did were not faulty, but found the fuel was leaking out of the lever end. So I stripped it down on the understanding that if I can't fix it, they will have to replace the whole unit (if they can find one). Talk about over engineered!. Seven separate parts just for the tap lever control !, including a plastic type seal which had dissolved/rotted which was causing the leak- So as usual, I hit the challenge and went for making a replacement seal from fuel resistant 1.5mm thick nitrile/nylon reinforced rubber. I had to make 2 special punches that could cleanly punch through the tough layers and in the correct positions- Glad to say that when the cleaned parts were assembled and the tap fitted , there were no further leaks. Hope I've seen the back of this one now.
  13. No real update yet and haven't had a chance to concentrate on test running this, but have primed the Carb float bowl to test the float valve which I 'Lapped' to ensure a good fit/seal. Left it for a week to see how it fares. I suppose I really want to cover all the points that will make it work before fueling it up. In the meantime, I wanted to give the Spark Plug stock a good going over. I have the original 8 COM in the engine currently, but don't really want to rely on it. So I have 2 other 8 COMs and a Lodge BBL. These I've stripped out and cleaned, as they all can be dismantled for cleaning. Did the Champions first, one is 1930s (left) and the other is 1950s. The 50s one cleaned up best, but turned out to be dead. No continuity in the central electrode. The 30s one is perfect, 0.5 ohms resistance top to tip- Had doubts about the Lodge BBL, but after sorting the loose body electrode, it cleaned up ok- Has a reading of just 2.8 Ohms, so also good. This one is on the higher temperature side of the 'Warm' range that 8 Com is in and is good for Oily running engines. Also have a good Vintage Lodge CV and hope to be able to test them all out on it, but I have to make 2 different threaded (Thumb Nuts) for them. 2 early ones are threaded UNC and the CV is 2BA !. Hope to update soon.
  14. Hi Alec, Do you still need this info?. I may able to help, but not this week.
  15. Good work on the head Norm, slightly higher Comp Ratio . An early 70s style head with the plug hole central. Later version around 1974 was a heavier casting and the hole over the exhaust valve. The bolt that nearly (or does) break into the exhaust chamber is a pain on these. If a head bolt is going to shear when initially undoing, bets are on it will be that one. Can't remember if it's number 7 or 8 in the sequence, but was glad I put a Stud in there in my last one so it only ever needs the nut undoing without disturbing the stud.
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