Engine only running on choke

[Steve2018 3]

Yea,  that's what i was thinking, burning oil

 

Will get a one ordered,  but £10 for a spring!! 

 

How can you adjust the max revs? Would that be by the govenor adjuster part? 

 

Thanks

[Wristpin 400]

4 hours ago, Steve2018 said:

Yea,  that's what i was thinking, burning oil

 

Will get a one ordered,  but £10 for a spring!! 

 

How can you adjust the max revs? Would that be by the govenor adjuster part? 

 

Thanks

2

Assuming that no one has fiddled with the relationship of the governor arm to the shaft that emerges from the block, speed adjustment is usually adjusted by bending the spring anchorage. As far as I can see you have not posted the model type and code to give positive id of what you have so that is just general advice. Reference to those number will enable specific information for your engine together with the top no-load speed and if applicable the governed idle speed. If your engine has governed idle, setting that is slightly more complicated that just setting the throttle stop screw to 1750rpm 

[Steve2018 3]

48 minutes ago, Wristpin said:

Assuming that no one has fiddled with the relationship of the governor arm to the shaft that emerges from the block, speed adjustment is usually adjusted by bending the spring anchorage. As far as I can see you have not posted the model type and code to give positive id of what you have so that is just general advice. Reference to those number will enable specific information for your engine together with the top no-load speed and if applicable the governed idle speed. If your engine has governed idle, setting that is slightly more complicated that just setting the throttle stop screw to 1750rpm 

 

 

Hi,  i posted 191707 6030-01 as the code.  Thanks

[Steve2018 3]

Got it running  and cutting great and then snap,  the metal drive pulley snapped clean off the shaft going to the engine!!!! 

 

Could this be welded back onto the shaft or will that off balance it? 

 

Thanks

[Wristpin 400]

An image may help in assessing the situation!

Quite a few crankshaft pulleys are constructed like two saucers back to back and spot welded together. The metal fatigues around the welds and the pulley falls apart. If the fracture / tear is such that the pieces can be put back "in register" it may just be possible to do a repair.  Back in the 70s/80s we would see quite a lot of that type of failure, particularly if belts were over tensioned but then the manufacturers got wise and ran a seam of brazing down into the bottom of the V and spread the load.  

[Steve2018 3]

5 minutes ago, Wristpin said:

An image may help in assessing the situation!

Quite a few crankshaft pulleys are constructed like two saucers back to back and spot welded together. The metal fatigues around the welds and the pulley falls apart. If the fracture / tear is such that the pieces can be put back "in register" it may just be possible to do a repair.  Back in the 70s/80s we would see quite a lot of that type of failure, particularly if belts were over tensioned but then the manufacturers got wise and ran a seam of brazing down into the bottom of the V and spread the load.  

 

Hi,  heres a image,  its snapped where it meets the shaft :-(

 

Thanks

 

Edited June 12, 2018 by Steve2018

[Steve2018 3]

I will try get it to a machine / fabricator shop and see if they can repair it and balance it....  If I can get the shaft off the engine.... 

[Wristpin 400]

Getting the old boss off the crank is likely to be a fight . If you have access to oxy-acetylene, getting it up to cherry red and letting it cool may create a bit of differential expansion. We used to protect the sump with some "tin" shields and lots of soaking wet rags. You may need to temporarily weld a heavy washer to the boss so that there is something for a puller to get hold of.

What machine is it? Possibly easier to try and source a new pulley.