Wristpin

Loctite do a useful two part adhesive called Multibond. Quick curing. I’ve used it successfully to re- attache Hayer Osprey and 21 clutch linings and other similar jobs.

Membership. Quite possibly as the last time I tried to renew, the site wouldn't accept payment and Nylon ? Said that he would sort it. That was the last I heard. Not too bothered as my interests mainly lie elsewhere.

Thank you. I will ask my friend ( who is 20+ miles away) for any engine info that he has. Meanwhile he’s bought an Etesia with a Briggs Vanguard lump and I’ve got all the manuals for that. I tried to post an image of the Onan rectifier/regulator but I seem to be lacking the ology to navigate this site. Going to “ insert other media” is met with a message that I’ve used up my allowance but with no obvious way of clearing my attachments to previous posts going back several years.

A friend has two aged Wheelhorses , one with an Onan engine with a charging regulator rectifier of a type that I’ve not seen before. Instead of the usual three separate terminals - one for each end of the stator winding and the centre one for the output to the battery, it has the centre one bonded to one of the outers. Can anyone explain this. ? Not having much joy with attaching an image. Says that I’ve used up all my attachment space but don’t seem to be able to clear any off.

That must be considered to be progress, but I hope that it’s as simple as that, but ……………. !

Not sure about that. The coil will have a wire connected to the insulated block retaining the points spring and sharing it with the wire from the condenser and the kill switch - the coil primary, not connected or touching the engine block. Any other wire is the earthed or grounded end of the coil primary or secondary winding - often to one of the bolts holding the coil armature to the block. The wire that is visible, in your first image, running from the coil to the insulated block , is the coil primary and must only be connected to the points , condenser and kill wire via the common connection on the insulating block.

Before you spend on parts. Looking at your first image it’s possible that the terminal ends of the coil primary wire and the wire from the condenser/ capacitor , are very near to the casing and could be shorting out on the wall of the magneto casing. If they are, it’s a cheap fix. Also, make sure that the spring steel strip from the moving point is not eating out any where and is held square against the plastic insulator. The coil is available as are the points. The exact condenser that fits on the side of the mag may be tricky to find but a generic one can be hooked up outside the mag. Both the coil and condenser may be tested , as can the whole stator assembly. If you are not concerned about originality, and so long as the coil is good , you can ditch the points and condenser and fit an after market transistorised trigger unit; for about the same money as new points and condenser and does away with points wear and routine adjustment. Just noticed the wire going away from the mag, presumably to a a throttle operated kill switch on the carburettor/ governor plate, a prime candidate for an unwanted short to Earth.

Quite often those narrow tractors were built by by a main dealer in a part of the world where a certain crop was grown . Here in Kent they were hop-garden or orchard tractors and both the main Ford and Ferguson Dealers had their own versions. Don’t know whether the DB was a factory job or a dealer special.

Valve job not too difficult but a valve spring compressor will make life easier. Bigger issue is the lack of access around the engine so the choice is to remove the engine or the tin work around it. I would do the latter and leave the lump in situ. Saves fighting with belts and pulleys etc.

That’s a Magnetron ( electronic, no points) coil. Setting the air gap by the book - turn the flywheel to move the magnets away from the coil.Loosen the coil bolts and pull it away from the flywheel, tighten one. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the coil armature legs. Insert your non magnetic gauge between the coil legs and the flywheel. Loosen th holding bolt so that the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel. Tighten both bolts and rotate the flywheel while pulling the gauge out. The gauge. I remember that instruction sheet supplied with new genuine coils can be used as a gauge. I use a strip of plastic cut from a milk carton.

On E10 fuel that’s been around a while? Fresh E5 for all my kit and a dash of BS Fuel Fresh in the can before visiting the pump. Aerosol spray of GT85 in my favourite general rescue spray. Your machine looked like a Lawnflite 504/505 , so if on its original engine it could be a bit overdue for a valve job when you’ve got nothing better to do.

Well, one further suggestion, Chester Hudson but no sure whether he’s still around. One of the “ characters” in this neck of the woods.

Hi, Stormin. I was going to suggest that you try Mike Hitchins at Guy Parts and Service but I’ve since discovered that all the various links to his web addresses appear to be broken . Can only assume that he’s no longer in business. Edit. Just been informed that the company has been dissolved .

Seems that they are available in the US - several on eBay with appropriate postage and duty etc. Very long shot, have you investigated whether there is any cross over with motorcycle parts. Edit.Belated after thought. Have you tried OEM importers / distributors for other manufacturers using Kawasaki engines ? Going back to when I sold machines using Kawa engines , it was often easier to get parts through the OEM than the official Kawa channel .

It’s a horrid job needing strong fingers. Just stripped and rebuilt a couple of Siba starters on Villiers F12s. Strong old springs. Nearly there and it jumps out and wraps around your arm like a demented snake ! Villiers own starter on the same engine jus winds in from outside. Why can’t they all be like that?