Jump to content
Douglas burrows

Qualcast cultimatic running problem

Recommended Posts

Hi there just bought a cultimatic deluxe 

it is very nice and hopefully serviced. Problem is. It is not easy to start. Eventually get it running and alarms to run fine with choke on then half and screw in the mixture. but if I touch throttle or choke it just fades. And dies. Then takes a while to go again. Does anyone have any experience of this  and hopefully a solution. Thank you. 

Dd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A good start will be to know what engine it has and even better an image of the fuel tank and carburettor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. I know they r many differences. Appears to be flooding as well but it did run for half an hour today. Which was good. Just took carb and tank off. Have to fiddle with the mixture. Quite a bit. And the spark plug is black. Sooty. 

9C8F2FDE-6B05-42A9-AD49-B07E723051A6.jpeg

9621F48A-752C-42A3-949D-23F95588C95B.jpeg

Think it may be electrica. Weak spark. Because if not sparking at all now. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lost spark could be your earth wire is touching something metal. I can't see where it is on here but it will be on the throttle linkage. It could also be the points (under the flywheel) need cleaning. Give the carb a good clean & make sure the tank to carb gasket & the carb to intake gasket seal ok. You should also replace the diaphragm on the carb. They are still available, part no is 270026. Don't strip the threads when you fix the carb back onto the engine

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep thanks. There is a flooding leak so stripped carb and diaphragm and flaps are fine. jets clear. It has a electronic sparked can’t remember name but looks like a magnet with wires coming out. (Mind block). Will take a pic tomorrow. But I do think it is something to do with the conversion from points to this coil thing. 🙄 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok here is he electric but. One wire goes behind and another to beside throttle linkage. But they both from same source. And there is strange connection that goes nowhere. Am not  good with wires.

A18F7952-C429-4883-A335-593CFA1C46A0.jpeg

E7A56C65-C63E-4FFF-9439-954354A6A171.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your strange connection is an Earth / ground that should have a loop terminal to be clamped under a suitable screw.

Your first image is of the coil armature and unless my eyes deceive me it is on back to front - may be not?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree that something doesn't look right, but if this is a Magnetron then where is the other black wire going. Normally you just have one wire going to either throttle or brake so that it earth's & kills the spark when you shut the engine down. Additional wires usually mean you still have points, so does the other wire go under the flywheel. I have a Briggs engine with points & can take a photo of that set up if needed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so first turn the coil thing around. Then connect useless wire to an earth. This seems like an essential step.  One black goes behind flywheel and the other black goes to throttle linkage. Probably when throttle is off it makes or breaks a connection that shuts off engine. All seems a bit touch and go. Can I remove this wire. ?

 

 

 

 

Ok here is he electric but. One wire goes behind and another to beside throttle linkage. But they both from same source. And there is strange connection that goes nowhere. Am not  good with wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep it had been restored but he had problems with points so added magnet thing. As I said I had it going and did garden  but conked out a lot under load. And very fussy to start. Then just gave up. So engine and carb ok. But I can hold the spark lead and give it a crank and all I get is a small buzz. ☹️ 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I’m reading it right, the OP has converted to magnetron but has not disabled all the old points setup wiring.  All he needs now is for the coil windings to be earthed ( the twisted uninsulated wires with “ the strange connector”  and one insulated “black wire” from the push on tag on the coil to the throttle operated kill switch . Any wires disappearing under the flywheel are no longer needed and may safely be clipped off.

I do emphasise “ if I’m reading it right”,  as someone else’s description and images are not the same as having it in front of one!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well. Fiddled about. Connected spare wire to earth. Cut the one going behind flywheel. And cut the one to throttle stop and connected it to a proper earth. As usual I hold spark plug lead and pull string. Bam!! Nearly fell offer . Yes!!! Great a good spark.  And I seeing stars. So it’s going. But under load still struggling. Must be fuel.  Yep u guessed it. The filler cap hole was blocked. Very restricted airflow. So sorted. Well done everyone. And it fits in well with bike and car. BB2D6D6E-6361-4882-8033-D9A0D626C9C9.jpeg.caf44183acfa0d1e5fdfb9775e303745.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure I will be adopting your spark test procedure, but well done sorting this out. I see yellow is quite popular in your household & like the view you have from there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Yes. I didn’t think it would work. So. Found out it did. Which is great.  Yellow and black. Is great. And here is 

Karcher and summerhouse. 

F90A67CE-BB24-43D1-940F-8B05E59471FE.jpeg

Edited by Douglas burrows

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...